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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#41
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pinewood derby
On Thu, 26 Jan 2006 22:44:54 -0600, Hugh Prescott
wrote: Eric R Snow wrote: On Wed, 25 Jan 2006 23:04:47 GMT, John Blinka wrote: Hi, I'm in a predicament: I helped a friend a few years ago with a small detail on a pinewood derby car he was building with his daughter, and he won the tournament with it! That was a fluke, but now my kid wants to race, and you can guess what her expectations are... Any thoughts on how to build a fast car are welcome, but I'm mostly interested in hearing ideas about how to prepare the wheels and axles. The kit we have to use contains 2 steel axles of about 1/8" in diameter and four plastic wheels whose hubs are a loose fit on the axles. Interference with the body of the car prevents the wheel from moving axially toward the car centerline. A plastic snap ring fitting in a groove at the outboard end of the axle prevents the wheel from falling off in the other direction. Rules are nebulous. I think we're expected to use the wheels and axles from the kit and the car can't weigh more than 8 oz. And that's it. This is a low key event, and I want this to be a father-daughter project, so I don't want to go overboard. What I have in mind is minimizing friction through judicious alignment and smoothing and lubrication. Any suggestions on how to accomplish this? What sort of lubricant should I use? Thanks for any and all ideas. John Blinka Here's what I did: On the night of the big race the car still has to be weighted. 1/4" dia lead fishing weight works well. I did not want my son drilling the holes as the drill could pass completely through the car and into his hand. Instead, I drilled the holes and was the one getting the wound cleaned and stitched up. Save your child from this outcome and let your brother drill any holes so you can watch the race with your child. ERS Most decent hobby shops have Woodland Scenics Pine Car parts. They have several different shaped weights with snap off parts to just screw to the bottom of the pine car. Some places have a 5 Oz weight limit. Whatever the limit is you want the car just under the limit. Hugh Where's the fun in that? My son got to see first hand (so to speak) what some of the inside of my hand looked like. He got to see fat and connective tissue. Now that's instructive! ERS |
#42
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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pinewood derby
On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 03:07:49 GMT, John Blinka
wrote: Rex B wrote: Preferred lubricant seems to be dry PTFE powder. Looks like MSC sells aerosol cans of this stuff. That's what I'll get. Just a heads up. Most of the aerosol PTFE's (at least the ones that I've used) have a solvent to dilute them. This solvent has been known to melt plastic. I've personally seen the results on a wheel and it's not pretty. Micropolish the axles. I've never polished anything. What sort of abrasives are appropriate? Fine emory cloth and finish with crocus cloth (if you can find it). Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm |
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