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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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16" chop saw back together
Some time ago I rescued a '70s era 16" abrasive cutoff saw from an ignomious
fate (meaning going to someone else). It was in *horrible* condition, which was factored into the price. However, once I got it home and thought about it awhile it seemed fixable. Here's a list of what was wrong with it: * motor bearings absolutely shot, worst I've ever heard, howled maybe 120 dB * spindle bearings not much better, truly worn out * main wheel guard (aluminum casting) had bad crack in it * saw had been physically very abused, stand was bent, belt guard broken * sheet metal guards on table were badly rusted, screws sheared in table casting * saw was wired for 440V * the handle had completely broken out of the upper casting and was gone * lot of rust on many parts including pulleys I got all the broken screws except one out of the table casting using easyouts. I tried a large variety of methods on the last screw including: * welding a piece of sheet metal to the busted screw, then turning that * soaking it in nitric acid (3 days) * soaking it in warm alum solution (a week) Finally, I gave up on the last screw. That one guard is now held in by 3 screws, not 4. It doesn't rattle. I used brass screws instead of steel in an attempt to defeat electrostatic corrosion from locking them in. To summarize, I removed the table sheet metal guards, electrolytically derusted them, straightened them, repaired/repainted them, and reinstalled them with new screws. The main wheel guard went down to Ernie, who TIG welded the crack. (THANKS!!) I replaced the entire motor, happened to have one that fit. 7½ horsepower, 3450 rpm, wired for 240V, it's a screamer. I was happy that it runs OK on my 3 phase converter, which has only a 7½ hp idler. Works fine so far. I derusted a lot of the main parts, including the pulleys. I fabricated a new handle by bolting a piece of steel over the broken hole, and welding a piece of pipe which had been cut to a 25° angle to it, then screwing on a 3/4" straight pipe coupler to that, leaving a female 3/4" pipe thread at the 25° angle I wanted. I'm currently using a handle from an old Ridgid pipe threader, but any piece of 3/4" pipe would do. I replaced the spindle bearings. Wow, new motor, new spindle bearings, sounds like a nice machine now, not like a camel giving birth. I disassembled the sheet metal stand and pounded it as straight as I could get it, then reassembled it with new fasteners. Seemed basically sound, but I wanted it stronger and portable, so I cut a piece of 1/4" plate steel to the size of the stand, and punched holes for swivel casters, making sure that the corner holes lined up with the holes in the stand where the feet had been, then through-bolted the casters to the plate. Much more rigid, now it's portable, don't have to bend over anymore to use it. Wish the casters had brakes, didn't want to spend $45 to get nice braking casters. Bought some new 16" blades off ebay, $3 apiece. They're 5/32" wide, and the local Praxair store carries 3/32" blades but those are $18 apiece. Today I shot a few pictures and did my first test cuts. Cuts just great! I cut off a beer truck axle, powered smoothly right through it. Truck axle is some super tough steel, really really tough on bandsaw blades. The axle is a bit over 2" thick, the saw cut it in about 6-8 seconds. Sa-weet! http://www.tinyisland.com/images/temp/truckAxleCut.jpg Here are a few shots of the saw: http://www.tinyisland.com/images/tem...SawOnStand.jpg http://www.tinyisland.com/images/tem...awLeftSide.jpg http://www.tinyisland.com/images/tem...wRightSide.jpg I now have a total of about $180 invested in the saw, figure it would cost about $1800+ to replace new, so in the end it was under 10¢ on the dollar, right in my price range. Another way to look at it is it cost about the same as a new Milwaukee 14" abrasive chop saw. Those have what, 1 horse motors? They are absolute toys compared to a properly powered 16" saw. No kidding. Yes, it's loud, yes it's smelly, yes it throws crap everywhere. But it's fast, and cuts true, and that means money. Grant Erwin Kirkland, Washington |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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16" chop saw back together
we wo wa wro!!!!!!!!
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#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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16" chop saw back together
enjoyed the pictures...
xman "Wayne Cook" wrote in message ... On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 14:57:54 -0800, Grant Erwin wrote: Today I shot a few pictures and did my first test cuts. Cuts just great! I cut off a beer truck axle, powered smoothly right through it. Truck axle is some super tough steel, really really tough on bandsaw blades. The axle is a bit over 2" thick, the saw cut it in about 6-8 seconds. Sa-weet! It's to late. You've already been infected. You'll never want to go back to a ordinary chop saw now. :-) I now have a total of about $180 invested in the saw, figure it would cost about $1800+ to replace new, so in the end it was under 10¢ on the dollar, right in my price range. Another way to look at it is it cost about the same as a new Milwaukee 14" abrasive chop saw. Those have what, 1 horse motors? They are absolute toys compared to a properly powered 16" saw. No kidding. Yep. You did good on this one. Yes, it's loud, yes it's smelly, yes it throws crap everywhere. But it's fast, and cuts true, and that means money. More power grunt grunt. :-) Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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16" chop saw back together
On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 14:57:54 -0800, Grant Erwin
wrote: Today I shot a few pictures and did my first test cuts. Cuts just great! I cut off a beer truck axle, powered smoothly right through it. Truck axle is some super tough steel, really really tough on bandsaw blades. The axle is a bit over 2" thick, the saw cut it in about 6-8 seconds. Sa-weet! It's to late. You've already been infected. You'll never want to go back to a ordinary chop saw now. :-) I now have a total of about $180 invested in the saw, figure it would cost about $1800+ to replace new, so in the end it was under 10¢ on the dollar, right in my price range. Another way to look at it is it cost about the same as a new Milwaukee 14" abrasive chop saw. Those have what, 1 horse motors? They are absolute toys compared to a properly powered 16" saw. No kidding. Yep. You did good on this one. Yes, it's loud, yes it's smelly, yes it throws crap everywhere. But it's fast, and cuts true, and that means money. More power grunt grunt. :-) Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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16" chop saw back together
Nice machine! It will make handrailing jobs fast.
The choice of brass screws in aluminum is not wise. The copper and aluminum combination will guarantee problems. Cadmium plated screws are about the best compromise. Randy "Grant Erwin" wrote in message ... snip Finally, I gave up on the last screw. That one guard is now held in by 3 screws, not 4. It doesn't rattle. I used brass screws instead of steel in an attempt to defeat electrostatic corrosion from locking them in. To summarize, I removed the table sheet metal guards, electrolytically derusted them, straightened them, repaired/repainted them, and reinstalled them with new screws. |
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