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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Keeping drill bits from slipping in the chuck
Last summer, I reported my problems with drill bits slipping in the
chuck of my little Delta DP350 bench drill press. At the time, I had a Phase II Keyless (1/32 to 1/2 inch, JT33 taper, about $20) on it. I was forced to tighten this chuck with a hook spanner and sometimes a strap wrench, defeating the whole point of "keyless", and still it sometimes slipped. I was attracted to the keyed ball-bearing jacobs-type chucks, but none were available in JT33 taper. So, I got a plain-bearing heavy-duty keyed Jacobs chuck, made by Jacobs, for about $84 (MSC 08590093). This works. Not a hint of slipping, though I had to tap it right smartly with a rawhide-faced hammer to set it on the JT33 taper well enough that the chuck wouldn't pop off when the drill broke through and pulled on the chuck. I would guess that the key issue is accuracy of machining all those oddly shaped parts within the chuck. This keyed chuck is faster to tighten and untighten than either the original jacobs-style chuck that came with the DP350 or the Phase II keyless. Joe Gwinn The original thread is at " VFD recommendations sought; wearing belts; slipping chucks" (18 June 2005). |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Keeping drill bits from slipping in the chuck
Only the best in regards to keyless. Phase II is Chinese. My Albrecht
R-8 1/2" keyless has never slipped, even with 1" Silver and Deming through 1/2" plate. JR Dweller in the cellar Joseph Gwinn wrote: Last summer, I reported my problems with drill bits slipping in the chuck of my little Delta DP350 bench drill press. At the time, I had a Phase II Keyless (1/32 to 1/2 inch, JT33 taper, about $20) on it. I was forced to tighten this chuck with a hook spanner and sometimes a strap wrench, defeating the whole point of "keyless", and still it sometimes slipped. I was attracted to the keyed ball-bearing jacobs-type chucks, but none were available in JT33 taper. So, I got a plain-bearing heavy-duty keyed Jacobs chuck, made by Jacobs, for about $84 (MSC 08590093). This works. Not a hint of slipping, though I had to tap it right smartly with a rawhide-faced hammer to set it on the JT33 taper well enough that the chuck wouldn't pop off when the drill broke through and pulled on the chuck. I would guess that the key issue is accuracy of machining all those oddly shaped parts within the chuck. This keyed chuck is faster to tighten and untighten than either the original jacobs-style chuck that came with the DP350 or the Phase II keyless. Joe Gwinn The original thread is at " VFD recommendations sought; wearing belts; slipping chucks" (18 June 2005). -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses -------------------------------------------------------------- Dependence is Vulnerability: -------------------------------------------------------------- "Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal" "I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.." |
#3
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Keeping drill bits from slipping in the chuck
On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 12:02:58 -0800, JR North
wrote: Only the best in regards to keyless. Phase II is Chinese. My Albrecht R-8 1/2" keyless has never slipped, even with 1" Silver and Deming through 1/2" plate. JR Dweller in the cellar I have several import keyless Albrecht knockoffs from Grizzley. I got them some years ago, so they're more likely from Taiwan than China. They all work very well, slippage is very rare with just easy hand tightening. They work much better than any key chuck I have. I have not barfed up one drill shank in any of them. |
#4
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Keeping drill bits from slipping in the chuck
Relating to the thread about Chinese quality, I have found a remarkable
difference in Taiwanese quality vs Chinese...have others seen the same? I just purchased a Right-Angle arbor for my Bridgeport, got one made in Taiwan, quite impressed with the quality...sharp threads, good finish, very nice. Purchased similar items from "made in China" and don't see any resemblance to the same quality. Just looking for opinions on the difference, wonder if my sample population is too low for generalizations.... John |
#5
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Keeping drill bits from slipping in the chuck
I have noticed the same thing as well. Particularly with respect to
measuring tools, but I also have a taiwan made cnc bedmill that I have been pleased with. In my limited experience, Taiwanese quality has been almost universally better than Chinese. Chinese quality seems to be improving in some areas and lagging in others. StaticsJason "CAMCOMPCO" wrote in message ups.com... Relating to the thread about Chinese quality, I have found a remarkable difference in Taiwanese quality vs Chinese...have others seen the same? I just purchased a Right-Angle arbor for my Bridgeport, got one made in Taiwan, quite impressed with the quality...sharp threads, good finish, very nice. Purchased similar items from "made in China" and don't see any resemblance to the same quality. Just looking for opinions on the difference, wonder if my sample population is too low for generalizations.... John |
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