In article ,
Charles A. Sherwood wrote:
Peter Reilley wrote:
I have a Delta 7 inch shaper that I need to mount.
I was thinking of bolting it and it's motor to a thick
board. That way I could push it aside when I needed

I have an Ammco shaper which I think is the same as the delta.
My shaper is on the stock WOOD cabinet and the cabinet is on
wheels.

Mine is labeled Rockwell/Delta, and it is on a similar wood
cabinet. There are steel rods through the width and the length of the
cabinet to draw it up tight, with washers and square nuts on the ends.

The wheels do not contact the floor unless you lift up on the
hinged handle on the other end, lifting the other legs free of the
floor, and tilting the wheels down into contact.

I do not experience much shaking but I normally run
on the two lowest speeds.

Even with the steel truss rods, you can wind up with a lot of
flex in the cabinet when you are set to the highest speed and longest
stroke.

However, I think that your thick wood base might work well with
a rubber sheet between the base and the workbench for added traction.
It probably would not hurt to add a step in front of the base, to
constrain it from walking towards the sudden drop. :-)

Or -- you could drop long bolts (1/2" or larger) through
matching holes in the benchtop and the base plate. To really keep it
under control, you could tighten nuts on the bottom of the bolts, but
just having the bolts there should keep it from "going walkabout".

I think this cabinet weighs about
100 lb. I think pictures of the cabinet are available on
the UK lathe web site.

Mine has two cabinet doors, and a space for a (missing) wooden
drawer which is used for more storage.

Note that you will want to get to both sides and the back to go
through the oiling drill prior to starting it up for the day, so having
it bolted to a workbench with *any* side permanently to the back would
be inconvenient. You've got to get to the ram oilers (three on each
side), the layshaft oiler (one on each side), the various bearing
oilers, including that for the sliding block in the crank mechanism, the
two oil points at the top of the link, the two oil points on the ends of
the leadscrew, and perhaps another half dozen oil cups and points on the
primary side.

If I were you -- I would build a dedicated table for the machine
which you could walk fully around.

If you must mount it on a workbench, pivot the board on a
central bolt, so you can rotate the machine to gain easy access to every
point which needs either lubrication or adjustment.

Do you have the manual for the machine? I've got two of various
vintages, and at least one of them has a pretty good set of drawings of
the table -- no measurements, but a good idea of how it is kept
together. Both are marked PM-1737, but are of different dates.

O.K. Not as good as I remembered, but it does show the heads of
the through rods which hold it together.

Enjoy,
DoN.
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