I have been looking for an ironworker and found the 65 ton compact Kingsland
that looks like it comes with just about everything you would need for a small
shop. Has anyone out there ever used one and if so how do you like it? I
looked at the Edwards but it won't even cut round rod without a separate shear.
What I plan on using it for to start with is building iron fences. Need to
punch 3/4" Sq holes in 11/2" X 3/4" X 3/16" channel and cut all the bars Then
weld it all together. I don't see any need for a larger machine I know they go
well over 100 tons but the 65 ton will met all my needs .

MPS wrote:

I have been looking for an ironworker and found the 65 ton compact Kingsland
that looks like it comes with just about everything you would need for a small
shop. Has anyone out there ever used one and if so how do you like it? I
looked at the Edwards but it won't even cut round rod without a separate shear.
What I plan on using it for to start with is building iron fences. Need to
punch 3/4" Sq holes in 11/2" X 3/4" X 3/16" channel and cut all the bars Then
weld it all together. I don't see any need for a larger machine I know they go
well over 100 tons but the 65 ton will met all my needs .

Shoot, my 35 ton ironworker would punch those. There are a couple of things to
be aware of. First, any metal severed by an ironworker will be distorted. Flat
bar can be hammered back flat, but angle round or square will be pretty whupped
right at the end. If you're making something rough, no problem. I find I can't
really use my angle shear for most things because of the distortion.

Second, think how close the holes in your channel need to be to the edge, and
make *sure* the ironworker can punch holes that close. If they're right down the
middle, no problem. 1/2" from the flange? no can do.

GWE

you say your angle iron is really distorted ? we were having a similar
problem and had a guy come in and show us how to properly set the blades

you would not believe the difference , no distortion and the sheared
end was darn near perfect , quite a chore to set it up the first time

after that just keep the blades sharp

Grant Erwin wrote:

First, any metal severed by an ironworker will be distorted.

And, it will make the stock longer. BTDT.
Butt welded and cut a flat to length (8m or so), punched about 15 holes.
Checked. It got longer at about 1cm. - Cut and butt weld again at
tactical places. :-(

Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO - YADRO - Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige

"MPS" wrote in message
...
I have been looking for an ironworker and found the 65 ton compact
Kingsland
that looks like it comes with just about everything you would need for a
small
shop. Has anyone out there ever used one and if so how do you like it? I
looked at the Edwards but it won't even cut round rod without a separate
shear.
What I plan on using it for to start with is building iron fences. Need
to
punch 3/4" Sq holes in 11/2" X 3/4" X 3/16" channel and cut all the bars
Then
weld it all together. I don't see any need for a larger machine I know
they go
well over 100 tons but the 65 ton will met all my needs .

I've used one of these and it was a really nice and reliable machine. If I
needed one again, I would probably get this one.
http://www.harrismachinery.com/index...43&product=173


Shawn

I am not sure what the current price is on the kingsland, but my guess
is that for around the same money you could get a GEKA.
The kingsland is made in england, the Geka in the basque country of
spain.
I have had my 50 ton Geka for almost 8 years now, and I love it.
It has several features that NO other ironworker comes with, that every
single one ought to-
Like tables and stops on both the punch and notch stations, with built
in quick release handles, and built in stainless steel rulers. No
measuring, no center punching, no dicking around- just set the location
where you want the hole, in inches or millimeters, tighten the handle,
and punch. And the hole is right where it should be.
Also they come stock with an automatic length stop, for shearing. Set
the quick release handle for 29", slide the steel in til it hits the
stop, and the stop actuates the shear blade, and cuts the metal. No
measuring, no squinting at whether or not the pencil line is on the
shear blade edge, no foot pedal skidding around- just slide it in,
shear, slide it in again til it eats up the whole 20 footer.
These two feature alone are worth many hours and lots of money to me
every month.

I also like having round, square, and angle shears built in, rather
than a 1000 dollar slide in option.

Of course, the very best ironworkers are german- Mubea and Peddinghaus-
but even they, at twice the price, dont have all the cool time saving
features of a GEKA.