Jamie Jackson writes:

I've got a lot of drilling to do in iron (?).

Consider a Roper-Whitney punch instead of drilling.

"Jamie Jackson" wrote in message
...
I've got a lot of drilling to do in iron (?). This is the kind of
metal sold in the hardware store along with angle iron, etc. It rusts
fairly easily, is magnetic, etc. It's 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick or so.
I'm describing it because I don't know exactly what it is (iron or
steel).

Anyway, I've got to drill lots of ~3/16" holes through the stuff, as
well as countersinks for wood screws. Last time, this was really
slow-going and hard on the wrist (I've only got a power hand drill),
especially the countersinking (boring bit is Titanium Nitride,
countersink bit is high speed steel), and the countersink bit dulled
quickly. Should I be using a lubricant, and how do I approximate the
right speed with a hand drill?

My book here says to use lard oil for mild steel (though I don't know
if this is steel or iron), and to use a "medium" speed, whatever that
is. If I've got to use lard oil, where do I find it (will shortening
work)? Hopefully, there's an alternative, considering this is a pretty
low-fat house.

Tips on lubricating while drilling would also be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jamie


Hi Jamie,

You're drill in in steel, mild steel most likely. Typical angle iron is
generally 1020 hot rolled. That is considered low carbon steel (this the
term "mild") and is not heat treatable.

Regards lubrication, I'm not a fan of lard oil, never have been in all my
46 years in the shop. Don't like the smell or the feel. Don't like the
smell of sulfur based cutting oil either, but I do use it. You can buy that
at Home Depot I've been told, but I buy it in 5 gallon containers from oil
distributors. Need I say they last a long time?

Drilling by hand is tiresome and not very accurate, but if that's what
you're stuck with, try drilling your hole with a smaller drill and opening
the hole to size. The chisel point of drills makes for tough drilling, so
the smaller the drill the better. Small drills have a smaller chisel point,
and you're also removing less material, so it goes a lot better. Don't go
too small, though, because drills have a funny way of breaking off as you
push on them. Small ones break very easily.

If your countersink dulled quickly, it's likely from running way too fast,
with a remote possibility of running backwards. That's death on cutting
tools. It's difficult to say what is fast and slow, all depends on the
type of drill motor you're using. If it's a 1/4" capacity, it's likely to
be very fast. Likewise, a gear reduction heavy 1/2" drill motor runs quite
slow. It would be difficult to say how far to pull the trigger on your
particular drill motor. You get the idea.

A good indicator is if the drill tip or counter sink gets real hot, hot
enough to change surface color. That's definitely running too fast.
Chips that come off should not be colored either, nothing beyond a light
straw color at the most. If they come off blue, again, you're running way
too fast.

If you have a lot of this work to do, you might entertain the idea of
getting a small drill press. The difference in drilling steel with a
press as compared to hand drilling is unbelievable.

Good luck with the project~

Harold

If you must use a hand drill, use sharp bits..learn to sharpen them if you
don't know, or buy a bunch, use lubricant...even soapy water in a spray
bottle is a good lube-coolant. I would find somebody with a drill press and
buy the beer, or the single-malt if you REALLY have a bunch to do. Slow on
the countersink.


"Jamie Jackson" wrote in message
...
I've got a lot of drilling to do in iron (?). This is the kind of
metal sold in the hardware store along with angle iron, etc. It rusts
fairly easily, is magnetic, etc. It's 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick or so.
I'm describing it because I don't know exactly what it is (iron or
steel).

Anyway, I've got to drill lots of ~3/16" holes through the stuff, as
well as countersinks for wood screws. Last time, this was really
slow-going and hard on the wrist (I've only got a power hand drill),
especially the countersinking (boring bit is Titanium Nitride,
countersink bit is high speed steel), and the countersink bit dulled
quickly. Should I be using a lubricant, and how do I approximate the
right speed with a hand drill?

My book here says to use lard oil for mild steel (though I don't know
if this is steel or iron), and to use a "medium" speed, whatever that
is. If I've got to use lard oil, where do I find it (will shortening
work)? Hopefully, there's an alternative, considering this is a pretty
low-fat house.

Tips on lubricating while drilling would also be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jamie

(Jamie Jackson)

I've got a lot of drilling to do in iron (?). This is the kind of
metal sold in the hardware store along with angle iron, etc. It rusts
fairly easily, is magnetic, etc. It's 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick or so.
I'm describing it because I don't know exactly what it is (iron or
steel).

Anyway, I've got to drill lots of ~3/16" holes through the stuff, as
well as countersinks for wood screws. Last time, this was really
slow-going and hard on the wrist (I've only got a power hand drill),
especially the countersinking (boring bit is Titanium Nitride,
countersink bit is high speed steel), and the countersink bit dulled
quickly. Should I be using a lubricant, and how do I approximate the
right speed with a hand drill?

As previously stated, you're drilling mild steel.
Yes use lube. (I like the soapy water suggestion)
If you have a combination drill/countersink bit, that might help. I would
suggest a machinist's center drill (combo short drill and 60 deg countersink).
Wood screw screw heads are not at that angle, however. They may be close
enough so you might try that anyway.
FM

"Jamie Jackson" wrote in message
...
big snip-----
Great info, Harold. Thanks. Also, I am indeed entertaining the idea of
a drill press, but doubt the money will turn up before this project is
over.

One more thing, will it be obvious what to do with the sulfur-based
lubricant? Just put on a couple drops where I'm about to drill, and
add more as it needed? Not sure if "a little dab'll do ya" or if I
need to get it pretty flooded.

Thanks again,
Jamie

Common shop practice is to use a small can with a piece of (heavy) stock in
it to prevent your air hose from blowing it around. In the can you want an
inch or so of this oil, which is dark, like molasses. An acid brush is
commonly used, which is held against the drill as it enters the work.
That's enough lubrication for drill press (or drill motor) drilling. One
dips as needed. You don't need to keep the thing wet, like flooding with a
pump. The oil not only lubricates, but cools as well. You can get away
with slightly higher speeds with lubrication.

Harold

Most hardware store steel is mild steel unless stated on the tag. You
don't indicate how many holes you will be drilling but if they are a few
hundred look for a drill press. Even one of the cheap asian imports from
Harbor Freight would be a better solution than drilling by hand.

Buy good drill bits. Look for a contractors supply house and buy the
size you need rather than a index full of bits.

Run the drill (hand or press) at low speed. For lube I use Isopropyl
Alcohol (rubbing alcohol) in a squeeze bottle. It evaporates and leaves
no residue which helps when prepping the steel for painting or welding.

(warning and disclaimer for the chicken littles - yes, this can catch
fire and burn your house down - use with caution and in well ventilated
areas or add water to the mix up to a 1 for 1 ratio - end warning and
disclaimer)

Squirt on to the steel at the start of the bit and add more as the hole
forms. If the mixtures boils off the steel your drill is moving too
fast, too dull or your not keeping it wet with lube.

My 2 cents, good luck

Jim Vrzal
Holiday,FL

Jamie Jackson wrote:
I've got a lot of drilling to do in iron (?). This is the kind of
metal sold in the hardware store along with angle iron, etc. It rusts
fairly easily, is magnetic, etc. It's 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick or so.
I'm describing it because I don't know exactly what it is (iron or
steel).

Anyway, I've got to drill lots of ~3/16" holes through the stuff, as
well as countersinks for wood screws. Last time, this was really
slow-going and hard on the wrist (I've only got a power hand drill),
especially the countersinking (boring bit is Titanium Nitride,
countersink bit is high speed steel), and the countersink bit dulled
quickly. Should I be using a lubricant, and how do I approximate the
right speed with a hand drill?

My book here says to use lard oil for mild steel (though I don't know
if this is steel or iron), and to use a "medium" speed, whatever that
is. If I've got to use lard oil, where do I find it (will shortening
work)? Hopefully, there's an alternative, considering this is a pretty
low-fat house.

Tips on lubricating while drilling would also be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jamie



-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Harold

Great info, Harold. Thanks. Also, I am indeed entertaining the idea of
a drill press, but doubt the money will turn up before this project is
over.

One more thing, will it be obvious what to do with the sulfur-based
lubricant? Just put on a couple drops where I'm about to drill, and
add more as it needed? Not sure if "a little dab'll do ya" or if I
need to get it pretty flooded.

Thanks again,
Jamie


I don't know how many or the size of the material, but Harbor Freight's
cheapie benchtop drill press are usually around $50

On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 01:26:11 GMT,
(Jamie Jackson) wrote:

the countersink bit dulled
quickly

In addition to the other possibilities mentioned,
you may be countersinking with too little pressure.
If the tool "skids" on the work without cutting,
it can get dull pretty quickly. If you are not
making chips, then take ALL pressure off the
cutting tool.

If keeping cutting pressure on the tool makes blue
chips or bogs the drill motor down, maybe you need
a slower gear (1/2 inch drill motor instead of 3/8
or 3/8 instead of 1/4); some newer cordless drills
have two-speed gearboxes, too.



--
--Pete
"Peter W. Meek"
http://www.msen.com/~pwmeek/

On 31 Oct 2003 04:21:30 GMT, (Fdmorrison) wrote:

If you have a combination drill/countersink bit, that might help. I would
suggest a machinist's center drill (combo short drill and 60 deg countersink).

That sounds like a good idea, given my countersinks could stand to be
more conical (which, it seems that bit would help with). In which
category in the yellow pages would I find a retailer?

Thanks,
Jamie

On Thu, 30 Oct 2003 23:05:10 -0800, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:

Common shop practice is to use a small can with a piece of (heavy) stock in
it to prevent your air hose from blowing it around. In the can you want an
inch or so of this oil, which is dark, like molasses. An acid brush is
commonly used, which is held against the drill as it enters the work.
That's enough lubrication for drill press (or drill motor) drilling. One
dips as needed. You don't need to keep the thing wet, like flooding with a
pump. The oil not only lubricates, but cools as well. You can get away
with slightly higher speeds with lubrication.

Excellent, I woudn't have known any of that.

Thanks again,
Jamie

On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 01:26:11 GMT,
(Jamie Jackson) wrote:

I've got a lot of drilling to do in iron (?). This is the kind of
metal sold in the hardware store along with angle iron, etc. It rusts
fairly easily, is magnetic, etc. It's 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick or so.
I'm describing it because I don't know exactly what it is (iron or
steel).

Anyway, I've got to drill lots of ~3/16" holes through the stuff, as
well as countersinks for wood screws. Last time, this was really
slow-going and hard on the wrist (I've only got a power hand drill),
especially the countersinking (boring bit is Titanium Nitride,
countersink bit is high speed steel), and the countersink bit dulled
quickly. Should I be using a lubricant, and how do I approximate the
right speed with a hand drill?

My book here says to use lard oil for mild steel (though I don't know
if this is steel or iron), and to use a "medium" speed, whatever that
is. If I've got to use lard oil, where do I find it (will shortening
work)? Hopefully, there's an alternative, considering this is a pretty
low-fat house.

Tips on lubricating while drilling would also be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jamie
Greetings Jamie,
As others have said, you are probably drilling mild steel. It should
be drilled at, in your situation, about 1500 rpm for a 3/16 drill. As
others have said, use cutting oil. You can get threading oil at the
hardware store. The dark, smelly stuff will probably work best. For
use with a hand drill you can just dip the drill bit in it and then
start drilling. Re-dip as needed. Watch the chips and if they are
turning color (blue, brown, etc,) slow down the rpm. For 1/8 thick
material and 3/16 dia. holes a drill bit that should work really well
is a "Bullet Drill". These used to be sold under the Black & Decker
brand. These types of drill bits have a pilot ground on the tip which
has a split point. Then the end of the major dia. of the bit looks
flat. These bits have a split point on the pilot which takes much less
pressure to get through the work. These bits are self centering. They
leave a very small burr. Run your countersink half as fast as the
drill bit.
Cheers,
Eric

On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 07:12:11 -0800, Eric R Snow
wrote:

Greetings Jamie,
As others have said, you are probably drilling mild steel. It should
be drilled at, in your situation, about 1500 rpm for a 3/16 drill. As
others have said, use cutting oil. You can get threading oil at the
hardware store. The dark, smelly stuff will probably work best. For
use with a hand drill you can just dip the drill bit in it and then
start drilling. Re-dip as needed. Watch the chips and if they are
turning color (blue, brown, etc,) slow down the rpm. For 1/8 thick
material and 3/16 dia. holes a drill bit that should work really well
is a "Bullet Drill". These used to be sold under the Black & Decker
brand. These types of drill bits have a pilot ground on the tip which
has a split point. Then the end of the major dia. of the bit looks
flat. These bits have a split point on the pilot which takes much less
pressure to get through the work. These bits are self centering. They
leave a very small burr. Run your countersink half as fast as the
drill bit.

Thanks, Eric. My hardware store does have the "threading" oil, so I'll
pick that up. Apparently, drilling oil (Duracut 260 seems right --
http://www.sunnysidecorp.com/metal_working_oils.htm) is harder to
find.

I do have some of those pilot-tip bits somewhere, so I'll try that on
some holes, and see how it does.

Thanks,
Jamie

You have gotten lots of good advice. I will add a couple more
comments.
Anything will help for lubricant. One of the things a lubricant does
is keep things cool and obviously anything will help there. Oils also
lower the friction, but require cleaning before painting.

Using a pilot hole will help a lot. The general rule is to use a
drill that is the same diameter as the web of the next drill. And the
next drill should be the size of the hole you want ( unless the drill
motor you are using does not have enough power ). Sometimes I drill
the pilot hole almost all the way thru and then fill that hole with
oil before drilling the full sized hole if I am drilling thick
material.

You may want to put a piece of scrap wood behind the metal so that the
drill does not grab as much as it goes thru the far side.

I would also recommend you let people know where you are located.
Someone here might be willing to let you use their drill press, have a
drill press to sell, or recommend a good place to buy drills. Here in
the Seattle area Boeing Surplus sells good drill bits at good prices.

Dan



Jamie Jackson wrote:
I've got a lot of drilling to do in iron (?). This is the kind of
metal sold in the hardware store along with angle iron, etc. It rusts
fairly easily, is magnetic, etc. It's 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick or so.
I'm describing it because I don't know exactly what it is (iron or
steel).

Anyway, I've got to drill lots of ~3/16" holes through the stuff, as
well as countersinks for wood screws. Last time, this was really
slow-going and hard on the wrist (I've only got a power hand drill),
especially the countersinking (boring bit is Titanium Nitride,
countersink bit is high speed steel), and the countersink bit dulled
quickly. Should I be using a lubricant, and how do I approximate the
right speed with a hand drill?

My book here says to use lard oil for mild steel (though I don't know
if this is steel or iron), and to use a "medium" speed, whatever that
is. If I've got to use lard oil, where do I find it (will shortening
work)? Hopefully, there's an alternative, considering this is a pretty
low-fat house.

Tips on lubricating while drilling would also be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jamie



-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

I was waiting to see who mentioned this detail first.
Go Harold

Blue chips are bad

that is, drilling low carbon steel with tool steel making blue chips is bad.

The original poster's description of the drill bit as "Titanium Nitride" is
a little inaccurate.
The Bit has a coating of TiN, but the bit itself is still high speed steel.
The TiN helps with wear, but the tool is still limited by its base material.
Besides, I seriously doubt consumer grade TiN coated bits are much better
than commercial grade non-coated...

"Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"Jamie Jackson" wrote in message
...
I've got a lot of drilling to do in iron (?). This is the kind of
metal sold in the hardware store along with angle iron, etc. It rusts
fairly easily, is magnetic, etc. It's 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick or so.
I'm describing it because I don't know exactly what it is (iron or
steel).

Anyway, I've got to drill lots of ~3/16" holes through the stuff, as
well as countersinks for wood screws. Last time, this was really
slow-going and hard on the wrist (I've only got a power hand drill),
especially the countersinking (boring bit is Titanium Nitride,
countersink bit is high speed steel), and the countersink bit dulled
quickly. Should I be using a lubricant, and how do I approximate the
right speed with a hand drill?

My book here says to use lard oil for mild steel (though I don't know
if this is steel or iron), and to use a "medium" speed, whatever that
is. If I've got to use lard oil, where do I find it (will shortening
work)? Hopefully, there's an alternative, considering this is a pretty
low-fat house.

Tips on lubricating while drilling would also be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jamie


Hi Jamie,

You're drill in in steel, mild steel most likely. Typical angle iron is
generally 1020 hot rolled. That is considered low carbon steel (this the
term "mild") and is not heat treatable.

Regards lubrication, I'm not a fan of lard oil, never have been in all my
46 years in the shop. Don't like the smell or the feel. Don't like
the
smell of sulfur based cutting oil either, but I do use it. You can buy
that
at Home Depot I've been told, but I buy it in 5 gallon containers from oil
distributors. Need I say they last a long time?

Drilling by hand is tiresome and not very accurate, but if that's what
you're stuck with, try drilling your hole with a smaller drill and opening
the hole to size. The chisel point of drills makes for tough drilling, so
the smaller the drill the better. Small drills have a smaller chisel
point,
and you're also removing less material, so it goes a lot better. Don't go
too small, though, because drills have a funny way of breaking off as you
push on them. Small ones break very easily.

If your countersink dulled quickly, it's likely from running way too fast,
with a remote possibility of running backwards. That's death on cutting
tools. It's difficult to say what is fast and slow, all depends on the
type of drill motor you're using. If it's a 1/4" capacity, it's likely to
be very fast. Likewise, a gear reduction heavy 1/2" drill motor runs
quite
slow. It would be difficult to say how far to pull the trigger on your
particular drill motor. You get the idea.

A good indicator is if the drill tip or counter sink gets real hot, hot
enough to change surface color. That's definitely running too fast.
Chips that come off should not be colored either, nothing beyond a light
straw color at the most. If they come off blue, again, you're running
way
too fast.

If you have a lot of this work to do, you might entertain the idea of
getting a small drill press. The difference in drilling steel with a
press as compared to hand drilling is unbelievable.

Good luck with the project~

Harold

Jamie Jackson writes:

Thanks for the suggestion, but it looks like I'd need a model 7A, at
least, and I can't find a price for one anywhere. If it's any more
than a few sawbucks, though, I'd probably do better to put that money
toward a drill press.

I sold this 20-ton model that does 1/2" holes in 1/2" thick steel for $132
on eBay recently:

http://www.truetex.com/ebay/roper1.jpg

If you consider eBay as a "tool lending agency", you could probably do all
the holes you need, then sell it again and get your money back.

Richard J Kinch
Palm Beach County, Florida USA
http://www.truetex.com/metals.htm
http://www.truetex.com/machinery.htm

On 31 Oct 2003 09:49:21 -0800, (Dan Caster) wrote:

You have gotten lots of good advice. I will add a couple more
comments.
Anything will help for lubricant. One of the things a lubricant does
is keep things cool and obviously anything will help there. Oils also
lower the friction, but require cleaning before painting.

Using a pilot hole will help a lot. The general rule is to use a
drill that is the same diameter as the web of the next drill. And the
next drill should be the size of the hole you want ( unless the drill
motor you are using does not have enough power ). Sometimes I drill
the pilot hole almost all the way thru and then fill that hole with
oil before drilling the full sized hole if I am drilling thick
material.

You may want to put a piece of scrap wood behind the metal so that the
drill does not grab as much as it goes thru the far side.

I would also recommend you let people know where you are located.
Someone here might be willing to let you use their drill press, have a
drill press to sell, or recommend a good place to buy drills. Here in
the Seattle area Boeing Surplus sells good drill bits at good prices.

Dan

Thanks for the tips. You gave me two more questions, though. ;-)

IDAGS, but couldn't find out what the "web" of a drill bit is. Anatomy
lesson please? Also, you mentioned cleanup after the oil and before
painting: Mineral spirits?

And FWIW, I'm in Falls Church City, VA, and would consider a used
drill press (better a nice-ish old press than a new cheapie).

Thanks,
Jamie

I'm going to nitpick what Dan wrote:

Dan Caster wrote:

You have gotten lots of good advice. I will add a couple more
comments.
Anything will help for lubricant. One of the things a lubricant does
is keep things cool and obviously anything will help there. Oils also
lower the friction, but require cleaning before painting.

Very true.

Using a pilot hole will help a lot. The general rule is to use a
drill that is the same diameter as the web of the next drill. And the
next drill should be the size of the hole you want ( unless the drill
motor you are using does not have enough power ).

This isn't optimal on a small (17" or less) drill press because the
forces involved will cause the table to flex. This will cause your
hole to go out of square which isn't a big deal on thin stock, but
it also can wear out your bit prematurely. If you don't believe me,
put a dial indicator on your table and press down on it with normal
drilling force and see it deflect. This is the reason for step
drilling i.e. beyond web-sized-pilot drilling.

Sometimes I drill
the pilot hole almost all the way thru and then fill that hole with
oil before drilling the full sized hole if I am drilling thick
material.

Good idea. It means the big drill breaks through though, so it makes
clamping the part more important.

You may want to put a piece of scrap wood behind the metal so that the
drill does not grab as much as it goes thru the far side.

I would also recommend you let people know where you are located.
Someone here might be willing to let you use their drill press, have a
drill press to sell, or recommend a good place to buy drills. Here in
the Seattle area Boeing Surplus sells good drill bits at good prices.

Second the "where are you". My first drill press was free. My second one
cost me $35 and it did me well for several years.

One final comment: for any hole larger than 1/8", it is really easy to
punch 1/8" steel. You'll want to centerpunch your hole and catch the
centerpunch with the tit in the middle of the punch (this locates the
hole quickly and reasonably accurately). Small arbor presses can be
easily converted to light punches for low $$ and low shelf space. You'll
find that it's a whole lot faster and easier to punch holes a tad
oversize with a little tolerance for location, than it is to locate
and drill holes precisely.

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington

Take a drill bit. Point it's business end straight at your face and look
at it closely. See it's two cutting edges? Out by the periphery of the
drill, the cutting edges are next to helical gullets that run the length
of the drill. The center of the drill, though, is solid. This solid center
area is the "web". In that area, it's much harder for the drill bit to
do its work, that's why a pilot hole a bit larger than the web is really
helpful.

Grant Erwin

Jamie Jackson wrote:

IDAGS, but couldn't find out what the "web" of a drill bit is. Anatomy
lesson please? Also, you mentioned cleanup after the oil and before
painting: Mineral spirits?

On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 10:59:56 -0800, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Take a drill bit. Point it's business end straight at your face and look
at it closely. See it's two cutting edges? Out by the periphery of the
drill, the cutting edges are next to helical gullets that run the length
of the drill. The center of the drill, though, is solid. This solid center
area is the "web". In that area, it's much harder for the drill bit to
do its work, that's why a pilot hole a bit larger than the web is really
helpful.

Grant Erwin

Ah... got it.

Jamie

Dan Caster wrote: (clip) Sometimes I drill the pilot hole almost all the way
thru and then fill that hole with oil before drilling the full sized hole if
I am drilling thick material. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's a good idea!

On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 12:13:53 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

If you consider eBay as a "tool lending agency", you could probably do all
the holes you need, then sell it again and get your money back.

Noted. ;-)

I did start to say something about enough power and rigid enough
machine, but considered that he was using a hand held drill. So did
not mention table flexing. But that said, I almost never use more
than a pilot hole and the final size on holes less than 1/2 inch dia.

Dan



Grant Erwin wrote in message ...
I'm going to nitpick what Dan wrote:

Dan Caster wrote:

Using a pilot hole will help a lot. The general rule is to use a
drill that is the same diameter as the web of the next drill. And the
next drill should be the size of the hole you want ( unless the drill
motor you are using does not have enough power ).

This isn't optimal on a small (17" or less) drill press because the
forces involved will cause the table to flex. This will cause your
hole to go out of square which isn't a big deal on thin stock, but
it also can wear out your bit prematurely. If you don't believe me,
put a dial indicator on your table and press down on it with normal
drilling force and see it deflect. This is the reason for step
drilling i.e. beyond web-sized-pilot drilling.

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington

On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 13:22:39 -0500, Jamie Jackson
wrote:

IDAGS, but couldn't find out what the "web" of a drill bit is. Anatomy
lesson please?

Here's a good page of description of all parts
of a twist drill:

http://spot.colorado.edu/~ingino/itlldrtab.html

--
--Pete
"Peter W. Meek"
http://www.msen.com/~pwmeek/