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Chainsaw recommendations
We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for
cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve |
"SteveB" wrote in message news:PW3_e.81984$DW1.77009@fed1read06... We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve I like the Stihl Farm Boss http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS290.html This chain saw kicks ass. A little pricey, but way better than the typical borg models. |
I can't answer most of your questions. I bought a Sears chain saw back
in about 1965 and when it finally quit I bought a factory reconditioned Homelite from Harbor Freight. I would get a 16 inch bar if you are not going to cut down good sized trees. Mine has a longer bar ( 20 inch ) which is proving handy right now. A good sized fir close to the house died and I cut it down last month. I am still cleaning up and splitting the wood. The trunk was 35 to 36 inches across where I cut it so had to cut from both sides. This could be done with a 16 inch bar with only a little more work. The larger engine is nice for big cuts, but a lighter chain saw is nice most of the time. Dan |
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:31:47 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote: We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Good questions. I like the Stihl 180C "Mini Boss" for work like you describe. It replaced a Homelite that clanged the can after the 27th pull one day last autumn. It was a cheap saw to begin with, worked OK for a few years, though it never worked as well as the Stihl does. The Stihl is a joy. It starts first pull every time. It then idles quietly and steadily without any nursing, waiting for me to pull the trigger and start making chips. It goes thru an 8" elm log (chewy stuff) in just a few seconds. I don't hesitate to shut it off when I set it down (safe practice) because I know a wristflick will start 'er up again. It's very lightweight, has ample power for 8" logs. Mine has a 14" bar. It has ample power for anything a 14" saw will cut, which absolutely includes 8" logs. I cut a *bunch* of timber 6" to 10" dia in the past week, helping neighbors buck and swamp down trees after a storm. It was under $200. No problem with spare parts. A Husqvaarna or Jonesred might (or might not) outlast a Stihl. The Stihl will definitely outlast and outperform the "price leader" saws like Homelite, McCulloch, Craftsman, etc. I don't know anything about Poulan. I bought the saw from a good dealer that sells and services all of the better brands. When I told him what I wanted, a lightweight saw that "works, dammit" for occasional cutting of 10" and less timber at home and at the cabin he nodded and immediately recommended the Stihl 180C with a 14" bar. I have a 20" Jonesred that is very powerful, but I find it too heavy to enjoy using for anything but felling and bucking larger trees up north. I only use it when I need that size bar and the power to drive it. That is quite seldom. I would not go for a larger displacement engine. It weighs more and won't work any better for your stated needs. Ya don't need arty to shoot squirrels. If you occasionally need to cut something larger, the smaller saw will do it, it'll just take a bit longer. If most of your use is 10" and smaller, you'll appreciate the lighter weight. Given some attention to "pinch", a good 14" saw can cut 20" down timber with no problem. I've found that the little Stihl has no tendency to kick or buck when cutting with the top of the chain to avoid binding in sits where the cut ends will fall. Easy peasy. It has ample power to do the job with a grin and a yawn. Did I mention that l'm liking my little Stihl? A key to chainsaw performance is to have a good sharp chain. Good name-brand chains only cost a coupla bux more than cheapos, stay sharp a lot longer, and don't stretch as much or require frequent readjustment. One or two readjustments per chain is usually enough with a good chain. If the saw is making chips like oatmeal or larger, it's working right. If it's making sawdust, time to change blades and sharpen the old one, have it sharpened or buy a new one. Another tip: never store a saw with gas in it. When you're done with the job or trip, dump the tank and run the saw dry. Don't store mixed fuel either. Mix it fresh every trip. It'll keep for a week or three but not more, stabilized or not. It didn't used to be thus, but I guess they've changed how gasoline is formulated or something. A dealer told me that -- three times: once when I paid him to overhaul the carb on the Jonesred, agan when I had him do it again a year later, and then again when I bought the Stihl. I finally "got it". It used to be that I could mix up a gallon of fuel and use it until it was gone. Not any more! It must be the fuel because my basis of comparison is the old Jonesred that my FIL used for years and I've used occasionally for a decade since he died. I've heard that Echo is OK though I don't know about parts. I don't know anyone who owns one. The dealer that recommended the Stihl to fit my spec sells Echo, Husq, Jon and Poulan. You'll pay more for Husq and Jon. I see tree pros using Stihl, Husq and Jon, more Stihl in the smaller saws. A log sculptor I talked to at a county fair currently prefers Husq though he used to use Stihl. He puts a *lot* of hours on his saws, probably more in a week than we would in a year or more. There may have been a hidden agenda there, like tourney pro fishermen who must state preference for the mfrs of tackle, boats, motors and elex that currently sponsor them. HTH Foreman |
SteveB wrote:
We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve No matter what logs you cut , if the wood is on the ground a 20" bar is the way to go and is far less tiring . For most people this reduces the amount you have to bend as well 20" seems to be just short enough to stay away from your toes . Also get one with 3/8 chain . You can then later move up a size on the drivers and get about two more chains before replacing the bar . On bigger falling saws I go for 404 chain and bars . For bucking saws I like D handlebars , on falling saws I much prefer O bars . A good bar , Windsor or Oregon should last about 400 hours with proper maintenance . Service your bar and flip it over every 25 hours . Cannon bars last longer yet but are real pricey , still very nice bars . The bar should have a roller tip . I prefer the one rivet tips over the three rivet tips . Have Oregon or Windsor chain on it . I prefer ring drive sprocket over a paddle wheel style . I doubt I would buy any saw under 50 cc if I had to cut much wood . There are some very good small saws out there but power speeds up the job . I still own a lot of saws , from about 60cc up to 118 cc . Balance is very important in a saw . Pick up the saw , see how it feels as you move it around . You will know right away when you find one with the right balance for you . Much cutting , esp limbing is done at awkward angles . A poorly balance saw will tire you out and be far less safe . I used to buy 2 to 3 dozen new saws a year . I really did not care what brand as long as it was one of these four . Husky , Johnsered ( owned by Husky ) , Stihl or Sacks Dolmar . All make pretty good Pro saws . Luck Ken Cutt |
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:31:47 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Sthil followed closely by Husky Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? I like the 20" for cutting railroad ties and telephone poles for landscaping. Works fine for most everything else, though a 18 is handier. 16 is a toy. Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:31:47 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote: We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve Ok, I'll be the "Girly Man" on the block! My neighbours all have decent machines, so a few years ago, I bought an electric chain saw to fill the gap. I think it's a 16" Remminton. Truth is, it's a dandy little machine and is borrowed regularly by the neighbors. Apart from it's obvious drawbacks, it's quiet, starts everytime and is very light. As a suggestion, consider getting one to compliment your main saw, you won't regret it ..... and your neighbours will love you on Sunday mornings when you want to clean up the small stuff. |
The best saws ever built were McCullough. I finally retired my 16"
MiniMac after over 40 years, for lack of repair parts, not because it is worn out. Just bought a 20" Stihl. So far [3 weeks] it cuts like a champ. Bugs |
SteveB wrote:
We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. I bought a McCulloch (no longer made) with a 20" bar about 20 years ago. It was an excellent saw, lots of power, 60+ cc's IIRC, and weighed about 23 pounds. I pulled it out of mothballs a few months ago and went around trimming some small branches on overgrown trees. What was easy to heft when I was 28 is a real bear now that I'm 50. Clearly, I'm going to need a smaller saw for trimming and will only use the Big Mac for cutting logs on the ground (which I don't do much of anyway). Make sure you weigh the weight and portability against cutting capacity. Gary Brady Austin, TX |
SteveB wrote:
We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. Another thing: Homelite's tend to be OK saws but repair parts are very expensive. I would not buy another Homelite product for this reason. (Had an electric Homelite) |
I really like my Husqvarna 350, which seems to be the preference of the
pros around here. The only slight problem is that it is so aggressive that it grabs small branches and whips them around instead of cutting them, so I use the old Mac 3216 to cut up small stuff. Part of the difference in cutting speeds is how much you file down the rakers. Last year a logger let me try his 350 with a competition filing job. It would cut through 8" oak in about 3 seconds while mine takes 10 or 15. However it was uncontrollable on branches smaller than 2" I didn't bother with the Mac but when using the Husky I wear a helmet, face shield, ear muffs and chaps. A timber jack to lift logs off the ground saves the back and keeps the chain sharp much longer. jw |
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:31:47 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote: We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. 47 cc, 18" bar, quality chain, name-brand saw, Stihl preferred. What I use is a 61 cc Stihl with a 20" bar - it is fast, but heavy. I started out with a 37 cc Stihl with a 14" bar - very light but very slow. There are plenty of people who use one of the small Poulan saws and get the job done. The secret is in the chain and the wood positioning. I usually carry 3 chains all professionally sharpened. NEVER let the bar touch anything other than wood. I carry a small ax to clean dirt off the tree bark where I will cut. Buck the tree on the ground halfway through every 20-24". Roll the trunk over using a cant hook, clean off the dirt and cut the rest of the way in each cut. |
SteveB wrote: We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve Hi Steve. I have one word for you. Husqvarna. Have tried *all* the other brands myself, and I can tell you, you need to try them yourself, see the ease of handling, starting, see for yourself how bad it vibrates (very important), etc. Most dealers will let you try one out before committing yourself to buy, and if they won't, well "caveat emptor". The one (rancher series) I took out of the box in 1979 for the logging/timber cruising class I was in is still out in the shop and would run if not scavenged for parts after I ran over it with my truck. The larger one (I can't remember the displacement size) that I bought around 1989 I used to cut wood for a commercial logger and firewood for myself, it is also still in the shop for parts as a freind misused it in 1996, took it completely apart, and the carb gaskets got brittle. Meanwhile three years ago I found one laying under a pile of scrap iron at the local junkyard that looked good, so I took it home and all I did was put a spark plug in, put a bar/chain on it, pulled the choke and honest to God it started and has run ever since...same plug too. Parts, on the husky do not seem to wear out that often, most often it is the chain and bar that needs replacing, less often is the sprocket. These are reasonable and readily available in most areas of the country. I recommend a 16 inch bar, a longer reaching bar will save you some bending, but, it will most often put your chain in the dirt (or your ankle, trust me). I also recommend a "round tooth" chain as it is the easiest to sharpen and maintain when you inevitably (and you will) hit a rock or stab the ground. a "Chisel Tooth", or sometimes called "Square" tooth chain IMHO will be dull if the wind blows on it too hard. Size of engine, well the .066 (I think that is right) is about the smallest you want to go, and you certainly don't need the larger series unless you go into logging full time, so I would say stick with a medium size. Other brands are cheaper but you really do get what you pay for. I believe Stihl is made by Husqvarna now..or the other way around and that would be my second choice. Hope this helps, feel free to contact me with questions if you need too. granpaw |
Just to be different I have an Echo 440ESP (electronic security protection =
plug that stops the saw from running and you can take with you and put somewhere safe... where you can't find it...) with a 16" bar and have used it for the past fifteen years since buying my farm. The security plug could be bypassed with a crimp joiner to reconnect the wires on the back of the socket underneath the air cleaner, but it stops the kids from playing without supervision. Had the bar reground once and share the wear between two chains. Starts readily, cold pull the rope with the choke on till it coughs and then turn down the choke and away she goes. Hot starts are a single pull. It's a comfortable saw to use with a nice chain brake. I use it mainly for firewood from gum, ironbark and assorted other outback Australian scrub wood. I'd buy another tomorrow if it was stolen. Hope this helps, Peter "SteveB" wrote in message news:PW3_e.81984$DW1.77009@fed1read06... We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve |
SteveB wrote:
We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve Shindaiwa 488 with an 18" bar. Do *not* use the crappy anti-kickbak chains. With a good chain my 488 will go through an 18" dia tree in about 3 seconds, spewing a stream of inch long cuttings. The Shindaiwa's have about the best engines I've ever seen / used. I've given my 488 quite a bit of use / abuse and it's never complained or let me down. I also have one of their line trimmer / brush cutters (T270) that is downright scary with what it can do when loaded with the brush cutter blade. http://www.shindaiwa.com to find a local dealer. You will not find them at a Home Depot or Lowe's. Pete C. |
I bought a McC 16 lightweight with lots of plastic parts. Ran smooth and
light, can use one hand, decent cutting power, good for trimming up trees on the ground. Major problem - right after warranty expired, screws holding gas tank in vibrate loose (hidden inside frame) and jambed in between the clutch and gas tank putting hole in tank and stopping motor. Had to buy a new tank. Neighbor bought the same style w/18" blade and had the exact same problem but got lucky w/no hole in fuel tank. "Gary Brady" wrote in message nk.net... SteveB wrote: We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. I bought a McCulloch (no longer made) with a 20" bar about 20 years ago. It was an excellent saw, lots of power, 60+ cc's IIRC, and weighed about 23 pounds. I pulled it out of mothballs a few months ago and went around trimming some small branches on overgrown trees. What was easy to heft when I was 28 is a real bear now that I'm 50. Clearly, I'm going to need a smaller saw for trimming and will only use the Big Mac for cutting logs on the ground (which I don't do much of anyway). Make sure you weigh the weight and portability against cutting capacity. Gary Brady Austin, TX |
p.s. I have a steel frame to hold up logs while sawing so I don't have to
bend over. Bought it on sale at the local hardware outlet 2 years ago and it's the best invention ever. As you are cutting at your waist height and the log is held securely, there is no back strain and you are not holding a screaming saw at some horrible rate of revs next to your foot. Hope this helps, Peter "Bushy Pete" wrote in message ... Just to be different I have an Echo 440ESP (electronic security protection = plug that stops the saw from running and you can take with you and put somewhere safe... where you can't find it...) with a 16" bar and have used it for the past fifteen years since buying my farm. The security plug could be bypassed with a crimp joiner to reconnect the wires on the back of the socket underneath the air cleaner, but it stops the kids from playing without supervision. Had the bar reground once and share the wear between two chains. Starts readily, cold pull the rope with the choke on till it coughs and then turn down the choke and away she goes. Hot starts are a single pull. It's a comfortable saw to use with a nice chain brake. I use it mainly for firewood from gum, ironbark and assorted other outback Australian scrub wood. I'd buy another tomorrow if it was stolen. Hope this helps, Peter "SteveB" wrote in message news:PW3_e.81984$DW1.77009@fed1read06... We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve |
Stihl Farm Boss O26 I believe it has been renamed MS 260. 20 inch bar.
WIll easily cut a tree up to 12 inch diameter. Easy to get parts (chains is all that has required). Dealers abound. I typically go for the low end pro models. They are hard to kill and I expect to have it the rest of my life. Michelle SteveB wrote: We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve |
Bugs wrote:
The best saws ever built were McCullough. I finally retired my 16" MiniMac after over 40 years, for lack of repair parts, not because it is worn out. Just bought a 20" Stihl. So far [3 weeks] it cuts like a champ. Bugs Gack! You must have gotten the only minimac in the world that went more than a couple of years. Oh wait. A 40 year old minimac. That musta been a lot different than the minimacs the sold in the 80's -- __ Pete Snell Royal Military College Kingston Ontario The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man. - George Bernard Shaw |
In article PW3_e.81984$DW1.77009@fed1read06,
"SteveB" wrote: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Before you even worry about the saw, buy a good set of chaps and a saw helmet (or use hard-hat, hearing protection, and eye protection all separate - the saw helmet conveniently combines them). Get some plastic wedges if you'll be felling, don't bother if you are sticking to downed wood. Brand selection should be based in part on what your local professional saw shop deals with. Local to home or local to the cabin, whichever one you can get to. Quite likely to be Stihl and/or Husquvarna, at least if you have actual logging going on. Walk in and describe what you are doing, and how much. You won't have any parts problems if you buy from this source. The downside to "bigger is better" thinking when you are cutting all small wood is that bigger is also heavier to drag around, and really isn't needed if you are doing essentially hobby sawing. And you should be careful about taking advice to avoid safety chain - it's one thing for a logger who does a lot of cutting, knows what to expect, and sees a direct financial benefit from saws that cut a lot faster, it's another for someone who runs a saw 50 hours a year or less. Anything that cuts wood cuts flesh. A _sharp_ safety chain will cut perfectly well, and has much better manners for an occasional user. Likewise, there's small benefit to getting a $600 professional saw for hobby work. I despise the $100 junk saws for many reasons, but there is a case for the "mid-range" (farm, ranch) saws from pro saw makers when your use is not professional in scale. Of course, if money is no object... "Lasting longest" and "least downtime" have a great deal to do with care, and less to do with brand, if you avoid the junk saws. Keep it out of the dirt. Check the chain tension as the saw heats up, and remember to slack it when you are done and the saw will cool down. Take it in for annual service, or do the servicing yourself, not neglecting the air and fuel filters. Never loan it out (some idiot will put unmixed gas or the wrong mix in it). Fill the chain oil every time you fill the gas, and file it every time you fill the gas. Flip the bar when you swap chains. Get your chains professionally ground (or buy a grinder and do that yourself) on a regular basis - keeping everything just so with filing alone is harder than you might think, though there are no doubt professional sawyers who do it. Chain grinders can correct minor mistakes for normal people. Features worth having - a chain brake, vibration isolators, a roller nose. Buy several spare chains when you buy the saw, and rotate through the set. When they wear out, replace the sprocket on the saw as well as the chains. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by |
I have a big Stehl with 20" bar but my two Remington Electric saws get a
regular workout. Very nice for dealing with the smaller branches as well as basic pruning up in the tree. Derek wrote: On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:31:47 -0700, "SteveB" wrote: We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve Ok, I'll be the "Girly Man" on the block! My neighbours all have decent machines, so a few years ago, I bought an electric chain saw to fill the gap. I think it's a 16" Remminton. Truth is, it's a dandy little machine and is borrowed regularly by the neighbors. Apart from it's obvious drawbacks, it's quiet, starts everytime and is very light. As a suggestion, consider getting one to compliment your main saw, you won't regret it ..... and your neighbours will love you on Sunday mornings when you want to clean up the small stuff. |
Same saw I have, keep it sharp and it melts through 18" oak. It
replaced my 30 year old Culluch Mac 10-10 that ate a wrist oin bearing while runing a chain saw lumbermill. ATP* wrote: "SteveB" wrote in message news:PW3_e.81984$DW1.77009@fed1read06... We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve I like the Stihl Farm Boss http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS290.html This chain saw kicks ass. A little pricey, but way better than the typical borg models. |
Right. I have THREE of them sitting under the bench!! All with clogged
carbs. Pete Snell wrote: Bugs wrote: The best saws ever built were McCullough. I finally retired my 16" MiniMac after over 40 years, for lack of repair parts, not because it is worn out. Just bought a 20" Stihl. So far [3 weeks] it cuts like a champ. Bugs Gack! You must have gotten the only minimac in the world that went more than a couple of years. Oh wait. A 40 year old minimac. That musta been a lot different than the minimacs the sold in the 80's |
Ecnerwal wrote:
In article PW3_e.81984$DW1.77009@fed1read06, "SteveB" wrote: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Before you even worry about the saw, buy a good set of chaps and a saw helmet (or use hard-hat, hearing protection, and eye protection all separate - the saw helmet conveniently combines them). Don't forget some decent anti-vibration gloves. The vibration will do a number on your hands especially if you have carpal tunnel to begin with. The vibration at idle from the larger saws seems to be worse than the high speed vibration. Also don't forget the most important safety equipment - a clear head and common sense. Think about what will happen if the saw kicks, a branch snaps, etc. Will you loose your balance / footing? Will the tree fall on you? Know your escape route(s) before you fell a tree. If you're tired call it a day before you get careless. Get some plastic wedges if you'll be felling, don't bother if you are sticking to downed wood. I thought those were just for breaking into cars... I've not needed the wedges, but I've had a back hoe on hand to assist when I needed to drop a tree in a direction where it wouldn't readily cooperate. Brand selection should be based in part on what your local professional saw shop deals with. Local to home or local to the cabin, whichever one you can get to. Quite likely to be Stihl and/or Husquvarna, at least if you have actual logging going on. Walk in and describe what you are doing, and how much. You won't have any parts problems if you buy from this source. Absolutely. The service and support you will get from a professional shop vastly exceed any from a home improvement place. The saw will cost more, but largely because it will be better quality, not so much from profit margins. Shindaiwa is only found at pro shops as well. The downside to "bigger is better" thinking when you are cutting all small wood is that bigger is also heavier to drag around, and really isn't needed if you are doing essentially hobby sawing. Absolutely. That monster saw with the 24"+ bar and giant engine may look cool, but unless you're a pro logger it will just wear you out trying to control it. A nice 48cc saw with an 18" bar will quite readily drop and chop a 24" dia tree, it's just a bit slower. And you should be careful about taking advice to avoid safety chain - it's one thing for a logger who does a lot of cutting, knows what to expect, and sees a direct financial benefit from saws that cut a lot faster, it's another for someone who runs a saw 50 hours a year or less. Anything that cuts wood cuts flesh. A _sharp_ safety chain will cut perfectly well, and has much better manners for an occasional user. Well, I certainly qualify as an occasional user, and I've had no problems with a non safety chain. The saw came with one standard, but the folks at the dealer said I wouldn't like it and to just be careful with the non safety chain. They were 100% correct, the non safety chain performance is vastly superior. Likewise, there's small benefit to getting a $600 professional saw for hobby work. I despise the $100 junk saws for many reasons, but there is a case for the "mid-range" (farm, ranch) saws from pro saw makers when your use is not professional in scale. Of course, if money is no object... If all you are doing is occasional trimming around your 1 ac. property, a "junk" saw will probably be fine. Anything more than that and you should get something in the professional line. A friend has a Shindaiwa 360 with a 16" bar and it's a very nice saw as well. I had a moderate sized project so I went a size or two larger, looking particularly at the weight of the saw. The 488 was only a couple pounds heavier than the 360 for a good deal more capacity, the next size up was like an 8# jump. "Lasting longest" and "least downtime" have a great deal to do with care, and less to do with brand, if you avoid the junk saws. Keep it out of the dirt. Check the chain tension as the saw heats up, and remember to slack it when you are done and the saw will cool down. Never heard that bit about slacking the chain at the end of the day. Never had any problems either, perhaps it's more of a factor on larger bars. Take it in for annual service, or do the servicing yourself, not neglecting the air and fuel filters. I always try to do a basic cleaning at the end of the days use. An annual service is no substitute for daily maintenance. Never loan it out (some idiot will put unmixed gas or the wrong mix in it). Exactly. If my saw goes out, I go with it. Fill the chain oil every time you fill the gas, and file it every time you fill the gas. Flip the bar when you swap chains. Never did the file each time. I don't use it enough to worry much. I've got four chains I rotate through and when one gets dull enough I just have my shop sharpen it for the few $. Get your chains professionally ground (or buy a grinder and do that yourself) on a regular basis - keeping everything just so with filing alone is harder than you might think, though there are no doubt professional sawyers who do it. Chain grinders can correct minor mistakes for normal people. I just have my shop grind them. Difficult to care about the $15/yr it ends up costing. Features worth having - a chain brake, vibration isolators, a roller nose. I don't think you'll find a pro-grade saw without all those features. I also like Shindaiwa's post-clutch chain oiler that doesn't pump oil onto the ground if you leave it idling for a minute. Buy several spare chains when you buy the saw, and rotate through the set. I keep two small round rubbermaid food containers in my saw case, one labeled "sharp" and one labeled "dull". Nothing worse than trashing your only chain on a Sunday afternoon just after you started the project. An no matter how careful you are you can always hit an embedded nail in a tree. When they wear out, replace the sprocket on the saw as well as the chains. Should probably check / replace the clutch as well if you're replacing the drive sprocket. Pete C. |
Don Foreman wrote:
[...] The Stihl is a joy. It starts first pull every time. It then idles quietly and steadily without any nursing, waiting for me to pull the trigger and start making chips. [...] My Stihl has always taken five or six pulls since day one and sometimes dies for no reason. |
On 27 Sep 2005 08:30:40 -0700, Dave wrote:
Don Foreman wrote: [...] The Stihl is a joy. It starts first pull every time. It then idles quietly and steadily without any nursing, waiting for me to pull the trigger and start making chips. [...] My Stihl has always taken five or six pulls since day one and sometimes dies for no reason. That's strange. Both my Stihl and my Husqvarna start on the second pull, and only die when they're out of fuel. Still don't have a preference between the two, they're both great. If your stihl is acting up, it might be time for a tuneup. |
If you want the best, go for a Stihl. But recognize that all Stihls
are not equal. The even-numbered saws are pro models, and priced accordingly. The odd-numbered saws are cheaper, but not worth it, as they are geared toward the homeowner market (in this case, "made in USA" is a bad thing, as the good stuff comes from Germany). My Stihl MS200T will fell most anything you can throw at it, if you are determined and patient. It can take a 16" bar, which is big enough to cut a 30" diam. trunk if you know what you're doing (if you don't know what you're doing, stay away from 30" takedowns no matter which saw you''re using). For you (I assume you won't be climbing with this saw), the MS 200 rear-handle is a better choice (better control and ergonomics). Husky also makes a great saw, but can be harder to keep up. Around here, there's only one shop that can maintain them. I stopped using mine when one shop closed and for awhile there was nobody who could get parts or do repairs. Check around to see what the local guys handle, as others have suggested. But consider a nice, small Echo. A CS-3400 (or whatever they call it these days) carries a 2-year warranty. In all likelihood, you won't care, because these saws are realiable as anything and easy to maintain (a lot of the cheap brands have terrible designs, requiring complicated operations just to adjust or replace the chain). You won't have the power of a Stihl, but it doesn't sound like you need it. Less power can be a good thing (think reduced kickback potential). All at half the cost of a Stihl. Even a lot of pros use them, tho Stihl is the choice of most for the bigger saws. good luck, Keith Babberney ISA Certified Arborist |
On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 08:41:30 GMT, Gunner
wrote: 16 is a toy. Gunner The pros don't seem to think so. The guys from Des Moines used a 14" or 16" saw to clear the 8" to 10" branches from the 8KV line behind my house. Weight counts with extended usage, unnecessary weight is not a plus. The guy mentioned something about "pain pills tonight". They'd been working 16-hour shifts for several days. When I've looked in the trucks of arborists, I usually see a 20 and a couple of 16's, sometimes a 14. They seldom use the 20's unless the size of the work requires it. Saw one in a truck today that must have been a 36", maybe a 48". Husq. |
Dave wrote:
Don Foreman wrote: [...] The Stihl is a joy. It starts first pull every time. It then idles quietly and steadily without any nursing, waiting for me to pull the trigger and start making chips. My Stihl has always taken five or six pulls since day one and sometimes dies for no reason. HEY mine does that also! Damn west germans didn't know how to make a chainsaw. I can't wait for it to die so i can replace it with another new lighter Stihl, but it is only 20 years old, so i'll just keep warming it up by the fire before starting it. laz |
|
McCullough quite making anything that quality assoicated with it over
25 or more years ago....... On 27 Sep 2005 04:07:17 -0700, "Bugs" wrote: ===The best saws ever built were McCullough. I finally retired my 16" ===MiniMac after over 40 years, for lack of repair parts, not because it ===is worn out. ===Just bought a 20" Stihl. So far [3 weeks] it cuts like a champ. ===Bugs ============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o |
HOmelites of the old versions are fine, but since the mid 70's they
are even worse than a cheap Poulan. The old ZIP, WHIZ and XL models were great saws......newer ones are not worth taking home if they gave em to you. On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 11:51:27 GMT, Gary Brady wrote: ===SteveB wrote: === === We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for === cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is === more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I === live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, === because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord === a year. === === Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy === a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. === ===Another thing: Homelite's tend to be OK saws but repair parts are very ===expensive. I would not buy another Homelite product for this reason. ===(Had an electric Homelite) ============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o |
HUSKY, HUSKY HUSKY or a HUSKY in no special order......
I have 9 Husky;'s and I can bet I can go start anyone of them in less than 3 pulls no matter how long they have set. Srtihls are great saws, but all of my Stihls will give fits if unused for a period of time, and they get cantankerous...... Jonsered is yet another good saw, and its built almost like the Husky.....which is also parent company of Jonsered. Husky, Jonsered and Poulan are owned by Electrolux Corp......... Poulans are nothing but junk to day, even the so called Poulan Pros. ONe time a good Poulan Pro would run with the top dogs, but no so anymore. Echo makes a nice saw in the size range a 3000 or 3400 series light, got good power and can take up to a 18 inch bar, comes with a 16 IIRC and the price is right.......I use Echo 3400 top handle saws in tree removals and we use them pretty darn hard, and most if not all have been dropped and thrown around numerous times and they all work just fine..........Side by side and comparable models/sizes etc, you will find the Husky saw will not vibrate anywhere near as much as any other saw, and they do have the best anti-vibration system going........I can use any of my Husky saws for 8 or more hours and not have a problem, but any size Stihl will make my left arm numb as well as my fingers in a few hours of use..Not good. Stihls seem to have a higher reving engine to get the power out of than husky does, but then that also depends on the models....... I prefer to get a saw that will not loose its guts if a larger bar is installed, so I usually tend to buy a larger saw and fit a smaller shorter bar to them if need be. Easier to fit a bar of shorter length than try and run a saw with a bigger bar/ chain than it wa designed to use. If you feel comfortable with a chainsaw, try some commercial grade chain instead of the crap sold in HOme Depot and other big box stores...The best chain in my opinion is Carlton brand which is a spin off of Oregon brand chain. Carlton will out cut and out last as far as sharpness is concerned any day over Oregon chain. Same for their bars. Another good bar is a Windsor, but odds are your gonna get whatever chain and bar comes factory installed on the saw you get. Don't forget some bucking wedges (plastic or aluminum) as your gonna need them sooner or later, and odds are you'll need them and ot have them. They are cheap and considered expendable items......I never cut wood without having a few with me. I would recomend a Husky in the 45 to 55 model sizes as they can pull a chain on a 18 inch bar and come with a 16 inch bar. NIcely balanced and dependable. Last count I had a total of 17 chainsaws with the majority being Husky..Followed by Stihl which I have 5 of, and the rest are Echo, except for one old Poulan 3700 which is over 25 years old and runs like new. Its used mainly for dirty work with a carbide tipped chain and refuses to die. I also have one hydraulic powered chainsaw which is attached to my hydraulics on my log splitter as its inevitablke that yo get a log just a hair too long on occasion. I used to use a electric up until I got the hydraulic saw.......Awesome saw and since the splitter is already running its just like picking up any air or hydraulic powered tool and doing what needs doing......No extension cords to fall over or big gas saws......just a nice lite heavy duty hydraulic saw in its holder on the end of the log splitter. ============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o |
I have a Husky 20" 50 that has done Fine duty(more than 17 years so far).
But I suggest that you get a STIHL MS 192 T - It is small - 6 pounds. Meant for bucket trimming and on a rope cutting. An arborist saw. Either Husqvarna or STIHL in my book. Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder SteveB wrote: We went to the cabin this past weekend. I am going to need a chainsaw for cutting firewood, and clearing some dead wood. None of the dead wood is more than 8" in diameter. I have plenty of downed wood in the area where I live, and don't want to cut anything bigger than about 8" for firewood, because I don't want all the work of splitting it. I would cut about a cord a year. Therefore, I am thinking 16" chainsaw. BUT, I always have a tendency to buy a little bigger for that once in a while when you need the bigger. BUT, I goes to the stores, and see Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, Stihl, etc. with prices all over the map. I also see engines with different cc displacements, from 37 to 55 on chainsaws with the same bar length. What's up with that? Bigger engines better? I would like to ask: Which brand do you like and why? Which brand lasts the longest? Which has the least downtime? Does any have a problem with getting spare parts? Would you do the 16, 18, or 20 inch? Would you go for the bigger cc engine and why? Thanks in advance. Steve ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 13:43:08 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote: On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 08:41:30 GMT, Gunner wrote: 16 is a toy. Gunner The pros don't seem to think so. The guys from Des Moines used a 14" or 16" saw to clear the 8" to 10" branches from the 8KV line behind my house. Weight counts with extended usage, unnecessary weight is not a plus. The guy mentioned something about "pain pills tonight". They'd been working 16-hour shifts for several days. When I've looked in the trucks of arborists, I usually see a 20 and a couple of 16's, sometimes a 14. They seldom use the 20's unless the size of the work requires it. Saw one in a truck today that must have been a 36", maybe a 48". Husq. When you are trimming branchs..even an electric will work. Which is why arborists tend to keep trimming saws on hand. But they dont cut trees worth a ****. Now you can have a saw you can trim with..or a saw you can trim with AND cut down a tree. If you can afford only one..which will it be? Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 13:43:08 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote: Post script: I noted today that the saws the power company guys used were Stihl 027's with 16" bars. The application was sawing off poles. They were installing a new pole. They planted the new one next to the old one. They first moved the (hot) 8000 volt line to the top of the new pole. Then they sawed off the old pole down to the level of the 220 distribution wires. Moved the insulator stack and wires from old pole to new. Sawed off the pole down to the xfmr. Dropped old xfmr, sawed off old pole down to the cable company's box. Hung new xfmr (325 lb, 25 KVA) on new pole. Loosely lashed the cable company's box to new pole with ground wire, sawed off 6" of the old pole and let the cable box, pole piece and all, hang on the lashing. LOL! Perhaps the power company guys don't care to do the cable company's work for them? Then one guy gave the old pole a poosh and it fell over. It was rotted at the base. Whoa! This pole had supported an 8000 volt line! They bucked the pole up with same 027 Stihl 16" saw. Tossed the debris and detritus in the truck and then it was Miller time. Those linemen were a hoot. Got an interesting view of the power company thru the eyes of the guys out there doing the work that keeps our lights on. Not grumbly or bitchy, these guys are pros. I doubt if dummys get to work with hot 8000 volt lines. Some of the dry/wry satirical humor and observations were wonderful. Cutting note that most will already know: they started with a cut from one side about 1/3 thru, then made another cut slightly above it thru to slightly past it. No pinch, no loss of control. They then just bumped the stub a bit, the remaining wood sheared and the stub fell right where they wanted it -- could have easily been belayed with a line if safe drop zone was limited in extent. It's SOP, described in the instructions that some with some chainsaws. I now know why neighbor Dan didn't want any help. He doesn't know WTF he's doing and would rather work alone than accept a helping hand twice offered. Oh well! He was bucking his leaning down tree, cut only from the top clear thru -- which resulted in a resounding CRAAAAKKKKK... WHUMP! It worked, he got away with it, but it could have punted him to Fargo if it'd had some crazy grain or unsuspected damage. Metro boy lucked out. |
|
~Roy wrote:
McCullough quite making anything that quality assoicated with it over 25 or more years ago....... Not true at all . They made thousands of boat anchors . Heavy and guaranteed to sink to the bottom every time :-) Ken Cutt |
They built them well in the early sixties. Can't speak for later
models. The whole world seemed to go into a competitive/quality decline after that. Only Sears has invariantly sold lousy tools from the beginning of time.G Bugs |
On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 04:44:43 GMT, Ignoramus4243
wrote: On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 04:04:48 GMT, Gunner wrote: On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 13:43:08 -0500, Don Foreman wrote: On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 08:41:30 GMT, Gunner wrote: 16 is a toy. Gunner The pros don't seem to think so. The guys from Des Moines used a 14" or 16" saw to clear the 8" to 10" branches from the 8KV line behind my house. Weight counts with extended usage, unnecessary weight is not a plus. The guy mentioned something about "pain pills tonight". They'd been working 16-hour shifts for several days. When I've looked in the trucks of arborists, I usually see a 20 and a couple of 16's, sometimes a 14. They seldom use the 20's unless the size of the work requires it. Saw one in a truck today that must have been a 36", maybe a 48". Husq. When you are trimming branchs..even an electric will work. Which is why arborists tend to keep trimming saws on hand. But they dont cut trees worth a ****. Now you can have a saw you can trim with..or a saw you can trim with AND cut down a tree. If you can afford only one..which will it be? I cut down about 12" thick tree with an electric chainsaw. Ive cut down 24"+ trees with a bowsaw, an ax, and a two man cross cut saw on many occasions. Does this make any of the above the prefered tools? G Gunner i Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
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