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Brass Rods & Fittings.
Good Morning!
I need brass rods & threaded fittings - 1/8" diameter rods will do (can find these at The Home Depot). What I need from the group is the name of a supplier of brass fittings, i.e. means to connect one rod to the next. Rods will be formed into a retangle that will be used to support a stain-glass window (approx 18" wide x 53" high; glass portion already in a wood frame). Plan to hang the SG window in front of a glass-block window. Wood frame is not structurally sound. A brass-rod "band" around the overall structure should do it. I can thread the 1/8" rods - need threaded fittings for end-to-end connection. I'll buy the rods (already threaded ??) and suitable fittings from one supplier as may be available. Thanks! Wayne Dengel |
Go to mcmaster.com and search on "all thread rods" and
" threaded spacers". Randy "Wayne G. Dengel" wrote in message news:h8kXe.6392$%i1.1827@trnddc09... Good Morning! I need brass rods & threaded fittings - 1/8" diameter rods will do (can find these at The Home Depot). What I need from the group is the name of a supplier of brass fittings, i.e. means to connect one rod to the next. Rods will be formed into a retangle that will be used to support a stain-glass window (approx 18" wide x 53" high; glass portion already in a wood frame). Plan to hang the SG window in front of a glass-block window. Wood frame is not structurally sound. A brass-rod "band" around the overall structure should do it. I can thread the 1/8" rods - need threaded fittings for end-to-end connection. I'll buy the rods (already threaded ??) and suitable fittings from one supplier as may be available. Thanks! Wayne Dengel |
On Sun, 18 Sep 2005 20:31:09 GMT, "Wayne G. Dengel"
wrote: Good Morning! I need brass rods & threaded fittings - 1/8" diameter rods will do (can find these at The Home Depot). What I need from the group is the name of a supplier of brass fittings, i.e. means to connect one rod to the next. Rods will be formed into a retangle that will be used to support a stain-glass window (approx 18" wide x 53" high; glass portion already in a wood frame). Plan to hang the SG window in front of a glass-block window. Wood frame is not structurally sound. A brass-rod "band" around the overall structure should do it. I can thread the 1/8" rods - need threaded fittings for end-to-end connection. I'll buy the rods (already threaded ??) and suitable fittings from one supplier as may be available. Thanks! Wayne Dengel Closest SAE thread to 1/8" is 5-40, which isn't real common. If you could go to 5/32" rod then you'd be pretty close to an 8-32 thread which you can probably get spacers for. Check electronics places like Newark, Digi-Key, etc. They used to sell threaded brass spacers. Ditto 3/16" rod, which would work well with 10-32. Source for rod: gas brazing rod at a welding supplier. It's available in 1/8", 5/32" and 3/16". If you're very careful with lots of rocking to and fro, you can force a 6-32 die onto 1/8" brass (I've done it), but it's highly likely that you'll just shear the rod off. in the tap. |
According to Don Foreman :
On Sun, 18 Sep 2005 20:31:09 GMT, "Wayne G. Dengel" wrote: Good Morning! I need brass rods & threaded fittings - 1/8" diameter rods will do (can find these at The Home Depot). What I need from the group is the name of a supplier of brass fittings, i.e. means to connect one rod to the next. Rods will be formed into a retangle that will be used to support a stain-glass window (approx 18" wide x 53" high; glass portion already in a wood frame). Plan to hang the SG window in front of a glass-block window. Wood frame is not structurally sound. A brass-rod "band" around the overall structure should do it. I can thread the 1/8" rods - need threaded fittings for end-to-end connection. I'll buy the rods (already threaded ??) and suitable fittings from one supplier as may be available. Thanks! Wayne Dengel Closest SAE thread to 1/8" is 5-40, which isn't real common. If you could go to 5/32" rod then you'd be pretty close to an 8-32 thread which you can probably get spacers for. Or -- also very close to 4mm (Actually 3.9688mm -- only 0.0012" too small) if metric works for you. Check electronics places like Newark, Digi-Key, etc. They used to sell threaded brass spacers. Ditto 3/16" rod, which would work well with 10-32. Source for rod: gas brazing rod at a welding supplier. It's available in 1/8", 5/32" and 3/16". If you're very careful with lots of rocking to and fro, you can force a 6-32 die onto 1/8" brass (I've done it), but it's highly likely that you'll just shear the rod off. in the tap. You mean "in the die"? If you've got a lathe, I would suggest turning the 1/8" brass down to 0.138" for the threads, plus a very short area down to 0.107" to help start the die straight. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
In article , DoN. Nichols says...
If you've got a lathe, I would suggest turning the 1/8" brass down to 0.138" for the threads, ... Hmm. Maybe you mean "knurl up," instead of "turn down?" :^) Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
On Sun, 18 Sep 2005 20:31:09 GMT, "Wayne G. Dengel"
wrote: Good Morning! I need brass rods & threaded fittings - 1/8" diameter rods will do (can find these at The Home Depot). What I need from the group is the name of a supplier of brass fittings, i.e. means to connect one rod to the next. Rods will be formed into a retangle that will be used to support a stain-glass window (approx 18" wide x 53" high; glass portion already in a wood frame). Plan to hang the SG window in front of a glass-block window. Wood frame is not structurally sound. A brass-rod "band" around the overall structure should do it. I can thread the 1/8" rods - need threaded fittings for end-to-end connection. I'll buy the rods (already threaded ??) and suitable fittings from one supplier as may be available. Thanks! Wayne Dengel Maybe forget the threads and slip a piece of close fitting brass tube over the joint area and solder it? Randy |
According to jim rozen :
In article , DoN. Nichols says... If you've got a lathe, I would suggest turning the 1/8" brass down to 0.138" for the threads, ... Hmm. Maybe you mean "knurl up," instead of "turn down?" Oops -- you're right. However, I don't think that increasing the diameter by kurling would do much good here. You could simply cut less than full height threads with a die. Thanks, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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According to Gerald Miller :
On 19 Sep 2005 21:39:56 GMT, (DoN. Nichols) wrote: If you're very careful with lots of rocking to and fro, you can force a 6-32 die onto 1/8" brass (I've done it), but it's highly likely that you'll just shear the rod off. in the tap. You mean "in the die"? If you've got a lathe, I would suggest turning the 1/8" brass down to 0.138" for the threads, plus a very short area down to 0.107" to help start the die straight. Good Luck, DoN. I would like to have this kind of lathe to fix some of my "oops cuts" You mean you haven't learned why lathes can run in reverse? :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
On 19 Sep 2005 21:39:56 GMT, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote: You mean "in the die"? Oops. Yup! |
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Now that is a good idea. Will have to work on that thought. Thanks!!
"Randy Replogle" wrote in message ... On Sun, 18 Sep 2005 20:31:09 GMT, "Wayne G. Dengel" wrote: Good Morning! I need brass rods & threaded fittings - 1/8" diameter rods will do (can find these at The Home Depot). What I need from the group is the name of a supplier of brass fittings, i.e. means to connect one rod to the next. Rods will be formed into a retangle that will be used to support a stain-glass window (approx 18" wide x 53" high; glass portion already in a wood frame). Plan to hang the SG window in front of a glass-block window. Wood frame is not structurally sound. A brass-rod "band" around the overall structure should do it. I can thread the 1/8" rods - need threaded fittings for end-to-end connection. I'll buy the rods (already threaded ??) and suitable fittings from one supplier as may be available. Thanks! Wayne Dengel Maybe forget the threads and slip a piece of close fitting brass tube over the joint area and solder it? Randy |
You got it, got the picture.
And, yes, one of the connections would have to have a left-handed thread. Or what? have not figured out how to assemble such a brass-rod rectangle. This is not a trick question - just wish to "pull this off", some assembly in some simple way. Are left-handed threads difficult to come by? Turn-buckles have one left and one right. If I could only find small, brass turnbuckles! In fact, turnbuckles would be ideal - able to "pull the brass rod rectangle" together, i.e. snug into rabbets milled into the stain-glass outer wood frame. As for the 'L'-shapped corner brackets, right now I am in the mood to simple bend the rods at the corners. I can't help wonder if this will negatively effect rod strength to the point where this whole design is unworthy. Wayne "Dave Plumpe" wrote in message k.net... Ummmm, perhaps I'm not understanding. I get the picture of a rectangle formed by 4 brass rods, threaded on their ends, and connected at the corners by 4 internally threaded brass "L"-shaped corner brackets. At least one of these connections would have to have lefthand threads, wouldn't it? -Dave P. -- http://plumpe.home.mindspring.com email: ANTI-SPAM: To email, replace "lastname" with "plumpe" "Wayne G. Dengel" wrote in message news:h8kXe.6392$%i1.1827@trnddc09... Good Morning! I need brass rods & threaded fittings - 1/8" diameter rods will do (can find these at The Home Depot). What I need from the group is the name of a supplier of brass fittings, i.e. means to connect one rod to the next. Rods will be formed into a retangle that will be used to support a stain-glass window (approx 18" wide x 53" high; glass portion already in a wood frame). Plan to hang the SG window in front of a glass-block window. Wood frame is not structurally sound. A brass-rod "band" around the overall structure should do it. I can thread the 1/8" rods - need threaded fittings for end-to-end connection. I'll buy the rods (already threaded ??) and suitable fittings from one supplier as may be available. Thanks! Wayne Dengel |
On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 11:55:58 GMT, "Dave Plumpe"
wrote: Ummmm, perhaps I'm not understanding. I get the picture of a rectangle formed by 4 brass rods, threaded on their ends, and connected at the corners by 4 internally threaded brass "L"-shaped corner brackets. At least one of these connections would have to have lefthand threads, wouldn't it? -Dave P. Make it like a picture frame clamp where each corner piece has one threaded hole and one clearance hole counter bored for a grommet nut. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
Gerry ~ Went to McMaster-Carr to find out about "grommet nuts". Came up
blank. Pls, what is a grommet nut? I know a grommet :-) and nut :-), but the combo?? Probably very simple, but the gray matter is not putting the pieces together. Wayne "Gerald Miller" wrote in message ... On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 11:55:58 GMT, "Dave Plumpe" wrote: Ummmm, perhaps I'm not understanding. I get the picture of a rectangle formed by 4 brass rods, threaded on their ends, and connected at the corners by 4 internally threaded brass "L"-shaped corner brackets. At least one of these connections would have to have lefthand threads, wouldn't it? -Dave P. Make it like a picture frame clamp where each corner piece has one threaded hole and one clearance hole counter bored for a grommet nut. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 23:26:27 GMT, "Wayne G. Dengel"
wrote: You got it, got the picture. And, yes, one of the connections would have to have a left-handed thread. Only if you wanted it to tighten. If you could establish tension by other means, then just screw the RH coupler all the way on to one rod before closing the frame, tension the frame, screw the coupler halfway on to the other rod. Turning the coupler doesn't change the tension but it does join the ends. Or what? have not figured out how to assemble such a brass-rod rectangle. This is not a trick question - just wish to "pull this off", some assembly in some simple way. Are left-handed threads difficult to come by? LH taps and dies are available. Turn-buckles have one left and one right. If I could only find small, brass turnbuckles! In fact, turnbuckles would be ideal - able to "pull the brass rod rectangle" together, i.e. snug into rabbets milled into the stain-glass outer wood frame. As for the 'L'-shapped corner brackets, right now I am in the mood to simple bend the rods at the corners. I can't help wonder if this will negatively effect rod strength to the point where this whole design is unworthy. A very sharp right-angle zero-radius bend will probably weaken or break brass rod. I would make silver-brazed corners. They could be mitered, or just buttbraze the end of one rod to the side of the other and then clean it up with a file. For the closing joint, I would mill or file flats on the joining pieces so they could overlap, then tension it by other means: perhaps small visegrip on each rod, pull them together with another clamp or wind up some string or something. If you don't need a lot of tension, you might be able to drill small crosswise holes in the rod and pull the ends together with snapring pliers. You could soft-solder ears on the rods, pinch the ears together with a clamp of some sort, solder the splice and then remove the ears. I'd then solder the overlapped splice with Harris Staybrite; the 430F heat can be supplied by a soldering gun and won't harm the glass. The result would be a frame with square corners and no "bumps". If you don't mind a small bump, you could get some brass tubing that just slides over the rod -- look at a hobby store. Tension the rod by other means, solder the rod into the tube. Ordinary soft solder would work here, but Staybrite might be better because it's very fluid, would readily "wick" into the tube and around the rod. Some welding stores sell a couple of oz of Staybrite in little blister packs with flux, so you don't need to buy a whole pound of it. (Pricey) Brownells offers "Hi Force" (similar stuff, 96 tin 4 silver), $4.95 for one oz. http://tinyurl.com/bzg36 One oz is several feet of 1/16" wire, way plenty for your job. |
On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 23:26:27 GMT, "Wayne G. Dengel"
wrote: As for the 'L'-shapped corner brackets, right now I am in the mood to simple bend the rods at the corners. I can't help wonder if this will negatively effect rod strength to the point where this whole design is unworthy. I found that 1/8" dia gas brazing rod bends very nicely to a near-zero-radius bend if heated to dull red. I heated it with a Lil' Torch. I also tried bending it cold in a vise with a brass hammer. It didn't crack, but the bend wasn't as sharp as when I heated it. |
On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 11:05:27 GMT, "Wayne G. Dengel"
wrote: Gerry ~ Went to McMaster-Carr to find out about "grommet nuts". Came up blank. Pls, what is a grommet nut? I know a grommet :-) and nut :-), but the combo?? Probably very simple, but the gray matter is not putting the pieces together. Wayne See: http://www.stanleyhardware.com/defau...wsandbolts.htm seventh item on the chart Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
Oh yes!! Of course ~ Thank you!
Wayne "Gerald Miller" wrote in message ... On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 11:05:27 GMT, "Wayne G. Dengel" wrote: Gerry ~ Went to McMaster-Carr to find out about "grommet nuts". Came up blank. Pls, what is a grommet nut? I know a grommet :-) and nut :-), but the combo?? Probably very simple, but the gray matter is not putting the pieces together. Wayne See: http://www.stanleyhardware.com/defau...wsandbolts.htm seventh item on the chart Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
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