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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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In article , Carl Ijames
wrote: Thank you, Ernie. He was using C25 (my mistake), but today he picked up a little bottle of ar-co2-he, followed your suggestions about stickout and lower wire feed speed, and things are looking much, much better. He did have to turn up the current some, not down, but I'm sure that's just a matter of balancing the wire feed speed and welding speed that he is using. The beads look clean but there is a little "halo" of black sooty-looking stuff alongside of each bead. Is that just as good as it gets, or is it possible to make it look as clean as TIG? -- Regards, Carl Ijames You never will get SS MIG welds to look like TIG welds, unless you invest is an inverter based pulsing power supply, and use some extra jets of purging gas. The process just creates too much smut around the weld, but that smut can be removed chemically with a pickling paste or electro-cleaning process. An excellent product that I have been using for about a year now is Citrisurf. It is a Citric Acid based cleaning solution that is used in conjunction with low voltage electricity. Check out http://www.stellarsolutions.net/ They are still working on finding distributors. I went ahead and bought a 33 lb. keg of the powder concentrate. I resold what I didn't need to other small shops. You can use a small battery charger as the electric source. I use a Marking Methods Electro-etching power supply. The stuff is magic and completely non-toxic. "Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote in message ... In article , Carl Ijames wrote: Basically, how do you do it? We need to weld up some structural 304SS pieces (3/8" rod welded to 16 ga C channels, and other stuff of similar size) and TIG would just take forever. Our welder is great with MIG and mild steel, and TIG on aluminum and stainless, but so far hasn't had any success with MIG and stainless. He is using 308 wire (0.035 I think), pure argon shield gas, and dc reverse polarity (I think; whatever is normal for TIG and SS). Practice beads on 16 ga sheet have way too much heat and penetration. Any advice and experiences would be very helpful. Thanks. -- Regards, Carl Ijames Wrong gas. You want a Helium or Oxygen Tri-mix. Argon-CO2-Helium, or Argon-CO2-Oxygen. Argon is way too cold for MIG on Stainless. Pure Argon is used for MIG aluminum. You can run a C25 gas (75% Argon, 25% CO2), but the welds will be really gray, and you will get more spatter. Keep the wire stickout as short as possible. You want the contact tip flush or even a little pround of the gas nozzle, not recessed. Stainless steel wire is really bad at conducting power, so you have to keep it as short as possible, and use a really hot gas mix. He will have to weld fast or just dial the machine way down. Try 16 volts, and 160 Inches /Minute. |
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