A few weeks back I posted instructions for using adjustable reamers. In using
one recently, I came to realize that I need a bigger two-handled wrench to
handle the adjustable reamers. Musing, I then realized that I could use a simple
60° center to hold the top of a tall wrench, centering it over the hole. This
would be great, but sadly I don't have a tap wrench big enough to hold most of
my reamers, that takes a center on the top. I do have what I believe a Starrett
93C which is the largest centered tap wrench I know of. It will hold a No. E
adjustable reamer, but not a No. F, sadly.

Are there any tap wrenches that can be centered and which will hold larger
square shanks than a Starrett 93C?

~~~~~~~~~TANKS~~~~IN ~~~~~~ADVANCE~~~~~~~~~~~~~
___ ___
" " " __( )====:: __( )====:: Grant Erwin
"" " /~~~~~~~~~\ /~~~~~~~~~\ Kirkland, Washington
\!/ \O.O.O.O.O/ \O.O.O.O.O/ E-mail: tinyisland.com/email.html
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
A few weeks back I posted instructions for using adjustable reamers. In
using
one recently, I came to realize that I need a bigger two-handled wrench to
handle the adjustable reamers. Musing, I then realized that I could use a
simple
60° center to hold the top of a tall wrench, centering it over the hole.
This
would be great, but sadly I don't have a tap wrench big enough to hold
most of
my reamers, that takes a center on the top. I do have what I believe a
Starrett
93C which is the largest centered tap wrench I know of. It will hold a No.
E
adjustable reamer, but not a No. F, sadly.

If you can support the end of the reamer with a center as you suggest,
there's no reason why you can't use a large adjustable (Crescent) wrench to
turn the reamer. Be certain to keep a reasonable amount of pressure on
the center so it can't overcome the effort and turn sideways on you.
There's on better way to egg a hole. Depending on the material in
question, could be a problem. You can also drill a hole in a piece of rec.
bar and tap the side so you can drive the reamer with a screw. That way
you have two sides with which to propel the reamer. I think you get the
idea.

Harold

In article , Harold and Susan Vordos says...

If you can support the end of the reamer with a center as you suggest,
there's no reason why you can't use a large adjustable (Crescent) wrench to
turn the reamer. Be certain to keep a reasonable amount of pressure on
the center so it can't overcome the effort and turn sideways on you.
There's on better way to egg a hole. Depending on the material in
question, could be a problem. You can also drill a hole in a piece of rec.
bar and tap the side so you can drive the reamer with a screw. That way
you have two sides with which to propel the reamer. I think you get the
idea.

Another way is to get two pices of square stock, and overlap them
slightly. Join them with two bolts, and drill a hole through
the split where they overlap. Take it apart again, and file the
hole square to accept the tap or reamer. Just don't make the
hole too large, there has to be a gap in the split so the newly
made tap/reamer wrench can grip the item.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

"Bob May" wrote in message
...
You don't want to use a Crescent wrench or any other one armed wrench on a
reamer of any kind. This is the best way to make a bad hole with the
reamer
as the forces on the reamer will force it sideways in the hole.
The best way to drive a reamer is in a drill press or mill with the hole
right under the spindle so that there are no sideforces on the reamer. If
you have to ream something by hand, you hvet to use a two handled driver
of
some design so that the forces on the reamer are all down and around and
not
to the side.

You didn't pay attention to the fact that the reamer is piloted by the
center. Can't speak for your experiences, but I've used tools in that
fashion since '57. It works.

Power driving hand reamers is an invitation to trouble-------that's why
they're called "hand reamers".

Harold

As a newbie to hand reamers, I have been following this thread with
interest.

Grant's original instructions in "care of the reamer" says in sharpening the
"clearance should be kept the same". Does this mean the relief angle behind
the cutting edge? Is the land (curved) formed by cylindrical grinding the
reamer when set to its smallest diameter and the relief ground behind the
land?

Any advice on sharpening would be welcome.

TIA, John
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"Bob May" wrote in message
...
You don't want to use a Crescent wrench or any other one armed wrench on
a
reamer of any kind. This is the best way to make a bad hole with the
reamer
as the forces on the reamer will force it sideways in the hole.
The best way to drive a reamer is in a drill press or mill with the hole
right under the spindle so that there are no sideforces on the reamer.
If
you have to ream something by hand, you hvet to use a two handled driver
of
some design so that the forces on the reamer are all down and around and
not
to the side.

You didn't pay attention to the fact that the reamer is piloted by the
center. Can't speak for your experiences, but I've used tools in that
fashion since '57. It works.

Power driving hand reamers is an invitation to trouble-------that's why
they're called "hand reamers".

Harold

"John & Barb Wilson" wrote in message
...
As a newbie to hand reamers, I have been following this thread with
interest.

Grant's original instructions in "care of the reamer" says in sharpening
the
"clearance should be kept the same". Does this mean the relief angle
behind
the cutting edge?

In spite of the fact that I was assigned to cutter grinders for a brief
interval early on in my machining days, I've never sharpened hand reamers,
but I would assume that they intend for the relief angle to remain constant,
not only in angle, but in size. Such angles are generally generated with a
primary and secondary grind, so they may also be making reference to the
idea of not just grinding the primary angle. When you do that, you risk
the back of the primary angle dragging on the bore you're reaming. The
secondary grind, or relief, is intended to remove the area that drags, yet
allow for a minimal relief angle at the point of the cut, so the cutting
edge is as strong as possible. The minimal relief also helps prevent the
reamer from hogging. The same principle applies to lathe tools if you think
about it.

Is the land (curved) formed by cylindrical grinding the
reamer when set to its smallest diameter and the relief ground behind the
land?

That's a good question. I'd be inclined to think you're correct in your
thinking. It's important for the cylindrical portion of the reamer, which
is not tapered, to not cut. It's purpose is to help size the hole----acting
as a pilot. By grinding the reamer while it's set to maximum diameter, it
would present a sharp corner at the leading edge instead of making contact
on the face of the radius when it was tightened up for a smaller diameter.
..

Any advice on sharpening would be welcome.

While I've never sharpened hand reamers, I fully understand how they cut,
and why. Unless you have access to a cutter grinder, it's a job better
left to others. All of the teeth must match one another, so each carries
its share of the cut, and also help in establishing a hole that is as round
as possible. Hoping to achieve that by other means is a long shot. If you
have access to a cutter grinder, the individual teeth could easily be ground
using a finger, with the reamer mounted between centers.

Reamers in general are not great tools for precision holes. Chucking
reamers are inclined to cut irregular shapes instead of true circles, and
often yield bell mouthed holes with chatter at the beginning of the hole.
Hand reamers offer similar problems, often stepped ridges full length of the
hole. Hand reaming is an art, one that, for some, is easy. .

Hope some of this helps. I realize I didn't address hand reamers well,
but I rarely use them, and almost never did when I was running my shop.
The nature of one's work often dictates the tools that are applicable. It
was true in my case.

Harold

You may wish to start researching tool & cutter grinding. It isn't an easy
subject to find informative writing on, that's for sure. One good way to learn
is to get your hands on a brand new end mill and look at it closely through a
magnifier under strong light. One online source that I have found to be somewhat
useful is http://www.hanita.com/hanita_protect...info_start.htm

Anyway, my best guess is that no it isn't done by cylindrical grinding. It's
probably done with the reamer held on centers in a tool & cutter grinder, with a
finger holding a particular cutting blade in a fixed radial position, and then
running a cup wheel down the blade, then rotating to the next blade, etc.

GWE

John & Barb Wilson wrote:

As a newbie to hand reamers, I have been following this thread with
interest.

Grant's original instructions in "care of the reamer" says in sharpening the
"clearance should be kept the same". Does this mean the relief angle behind
the cutting edge? Is the land (curved) formed by cylindrical grinding the
reamer when set to its smallest diameter and the relief ground behind the
land?

Any advice on sharpening would be welcome.

TIA, John
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"Bob May" wrote in message
...

You don't want to use a Crescent wrench or any other one armed wrench on

a

reamer of any kind. This is the best way to make a bad hole with the

reamer

as the forces on the reamer will force it sideways in the hole.
The best way to drive a reamer is in a drill press or mill with the hole
right under the spindle so that there are no sideforces on the reamer.

If

you have to ream something by hand, you hvet to use a two handled driver

of

some design so that the forces on the reamer are all down and around and

not

to the side.

You didn't pay attention to the fact that the reamer is piloted by the
center. Can't speak for your experiences, but I've used tools in that
fashion since '57. It works.

Power driving hand reamers is an invitation to trouble-------that's why
they're called "hand reamers".

Harold

You don't want to use a Crescent wrench or any other one armed wrench on a
reamer of any kind. This is the best way to make a bad hole with the reamer
as the forces on the reamer will force it sideways in the hole.
The best way to drive a reamer is in a drill press or mill with the hole
right under the spindle so that there are no sideforces on the reamer. If
you have to ream something by hand, you hvet to use a two handled driver of
some design so that the forces on the reamer are all down and around and not
to the side. The two bar holder as described in another post in this thread
is a nice quick and dirty design that works well, a bar with the appropiate
sized hole in the middle of is another choice and there are ones available
at the better tool stores.

--
Why do penguins walk so far to get to their nesting grounds?

Thanks for the link Grant, very interesting. I now know why 2, 3, 4 and
more fluted cutters.
John.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
You may wish to start researching tool & cutter grinding. It isn't an easy
subject to find informative writing on, that's for sure. One good way to
learn
is to get your hands on a brand new end mill and look at it closely
through a
magnifier under strong light. One online source that I have found to be
somewhat
useful is http://www.hanita.com/hanita_protect...info_start.htm

Anyway, my best guess is that no it isn't done by cylindrical grinding.
It's
probably done with the reamer held on centers in a tool & cutter grinder,
with a
finger holding a particular cutting blade in a fixed radial position, and
then
running a cup wheel down the blade, then rotating to the next blade, etc.

GWE

John & Barb Wilson wrote:

As a newbie to hand reamers, I have been following this thread with
interest.

Grant's original instructions in "care of the reamer" says in sharpening
the
"clearance should be kept the same". Does this mean the relief angle
behind
the cutting edge? Is the land (curved) formed by cylindrical grinding
the
reamer when set to its smallest diameter and the relief ground behind
the
land?

Any advice on sharpening would be welcome.

TIA, John
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"Bob May" wrote in message
...

You don't want to use a Crescent wrench or any other one armed wrench
on

a

reamer of any kind. This is the best way to make a bad hole with the

reamer

as the forces on the reamer will force it sideways in the hole.
The best way to drive a reamer is in a drill press or mill with the
hole
right under the spindle so that there are no sideforces on the reamer.

If

you have to ream something by hand, you hvet to use a two handled
driver

of

some design so that the forces on the reamer are all down and around
and

not

to the side.

You didn't pay attention to the fact that the reamer is piloted by the
center. Can't speak for your experiences, but I've used tools in that
fashion since '57. It works.

Power driving hand reamers is an invitation to trouble-------that's why
they're called "hand reamers".

Harold