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Pole Barn
Thinking of building a pole barn shop about 24x32. Have to do by
myself. has to have gravel as I am on a limited budget. Will be adjacent to my house. What is the cheapest way to go about this and make it look nice? Is it ok to use 4x6x12 posts 2 feet in the ground? |
Not an expert on pole barns but IIRC the poles a sunk far enough so that
they provide the lateral shear strength. That means they have to go in 3' to 5' depending on how big your building is. Plus you may need to pour a concrete 'collar' around each pole. A good gravel base will work fine until you get enough extra $$$ to pour the floor later. Make sure that you grade things, set the collars, set the driveway, etc so that it all works out right for the later concrete. There are lots of suppliers that will create a plan, sell the materials, and deliever to your site. In the midwest Menards is one of the bigger suppliers, each of their stores has a kiosk and computer to let you design what you need. For residiential area buildings, be sure to look into some of the various colors. Pay the extra few bucks to get something other than pure white. You will also want to design something with soffets and other trim to make it match the house. wrote: Thinking of building a pole barn shop about 24x32. Have to do by myself. has to have gravel as I am on a limited budget. Will be adjacent to my house. What is the cheapest way to go about this and make it look nice? Is it ok to use 4x6x12 posts 2 feet in the ground? |
wrote in message oups.com... Thinking of building a pole barn shop about 24x32. Have to do by myself. has to have gravel as I am on a limited budget. Will be adjacent to my house. What is the cheapest way to go about this and make it look nice? Is it ok to use 4x6x12 posts 2 feet in the ground? That is indeed the first question, and the answer depends on your soil conditions. Ask around. FYI, I have been known to put fence posts deeper than that, but my soil is pure sand. Vaughn |
Is it ok to use 4x6x12 posts 2 feet in the ground? Your posts is what keep the building from blowing away in a wind storm. If you live where there's no hurricanes, tornados, or severe thunderstorms you might be OK. For my barn, the posts are four feet deep with a 12" concrete cookie for the posts to rest on. The cookie has rebars in it that are stapled down to the posts. The cookie will cost you $10 a pole extra, but now the weak link is the building shaking apart, not coming out of the ground. There's tons of places that offer complete building kits. Much better than buying the parts al la carte. Nearly every lumber yard and big box home supply around offers a kit. Karl |
I live in Kentucky. Mostly line stone and clay around here. What I am
afraid of is running out of headroom by the time I put a 4x6x12 3 feet deep plus the gravel to level it out plus the concrete later. |
wrote:
Thinking of building a pole barn shop about 24x32. Have to do by myself. has to have gravel as I am on a limited budget. Will be adjacent to my house. What is the cheapest way to go about this and make it look nice? Is it ok to use 4x6x12 posts 2 feet in the ground? The pole barn my friend built some years ago was from a load of power poles. Sold off the power company manufacturing lot. He dug 4' holes and hand set the poles by himself! - No rigging. He dug the hole. Then slotted in one side - long gentle slope to the bottom. Then the pole is rolled so the end is near the hole - pole bumps down the slot and starts to stand up - Once planted, he walked up the pole - standing it up and then he tied it off to his tractor and filled/ packed the hole. Typically the power poles are only 3-4 feet deep - once packed that is strong. Martin -- Martin Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
wrote in message oups.com... Thinking of building a pole barn shop about 24x32. Have to do by myself. has to have gravel as I am on a limited budget. Will be adjacent to my house. What is the cheapest way to go about this and make it look nice? Is it ok to use 4x6x12 posts 2 feet in the ground? Call your local power company and see where they are replacing poles. My neighbor now is the proud owner of a stack of poles that were formerly holding up the wires on our street. Can't beat free and you can cut them so you have plenty of headroom. Steve. |
In article ,
"lionslair at consolidated dot net" "lionslair at consolidated dot net" wrote: He dug the hole. Then slotted in one side - long gentle slope to the bottom. Then the pole is rolled so the end is near the hole - pole bumps down the slot and starts to stand up - Once planted, he walked up the pole - standing it up and then he tied it off to his tractor and filled/ packed the hole. I use a slightly different technique. After I drill the hole I put the pole across my carry-all. If you get the post positioned right on the carry-all and the carry-all at the right height (experience), then it is EZ to lift the pole since it is nearly balanced and when you flip it up it falls down in the hole so neatly I usually don't need the board to keep it from digging in the side as it goes down. I have erected telephone poles over 20' high singlehanded. -- Free men own guns, slaves don't www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
In article . com,
wrote: I live in Kentucky. Mostly line stone and clay around here. What I am afraid of is running out of headroom by the time I put a 4x6x12 3 feet deep plus the gravel to level it out plus the concrete later. Use 16' poats. You will never regret more headroom. I've got 15' headroom in my pole shed and am thankful for every foot. -- Free men own guns, slaves don't www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
Nick Hull wrote:
In article , "lionslair at consolidated dot net" "lionslair at consolidated dot net" wrote: He dug the hole. Then slotted in one side - long gentle slope to the bottom. Then the pole is rolled so the end is near the hole - pole bumps down the slot and starts to stand up - Once planted, he walked up the pole - standing it up and then he tied it off to his tractor and filled/ packed the hole. I use a slightly different technique. After I drill the hole I put the pole across my carry-all. If you get the post positioned right on the carry-all and the carry-all at the right height (experience), then it is EZ to lift the pole since it is nearly balanced and when you flip it up it falls down in the hole so neatly I usually don't need the board to keep it from digging in the side as it goes down. I have erected telephone poles over 20' high singlehanded. Just invite a Scott - They topple poles for fun in the 'games' :-) Martin -- Martin Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
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On Mon, 06 Jun 2005 19:25:38 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
wrote: On 2 Jun 2005 13:11:23 -0700, the inscrutable spake: Thinking of building a pole barn shop about 24x32. Have to do by myself. has to have gravel as I am on a limited budget. Will be adjacent to my house. What is the cheapest way to go about this and make it look nice? Is it ok to use 4x6x12 posts 2 feet in the ground? No. If the upper structure is properly braced, the 2-foot embedment might survive horizontal wind loads. But it's not deep enough to provide the uplift resistance you need. Four to six feet is the convention. LLoyd Unless you use deadmen and a bit of concrete. Gunner "Considering the events of recent years, the world has a long way to go to regain its credibility and reputation with the US." unknown |
"Gunner" wrote in message ... Unless you use deadmen and a bit of concrete. Yeahbut... (my life is dedicated to the "yeahbut"), because of unfortunate indiscretions by owner-contractors over the years (like burying posts only 2' deep), most juridictions' code now requires more than just a "bit" of concrete for pole collars. My next-door neighbor screwed the code for the whole county. He basically built a barn on hinges (metal post anchors screwed down to his slab). One fat downburst later, the barn was on the ground (with the roof in entirely one piece!), and the county revised the code for all agricultural builders. Now, we have to go through engineering to even build a two-horse pasture shelter! Our local code requires posts no smaller than 6" and no less buried than 4' - regardless of the size of the barn - and a minimum 18" diameter by 12" deep collar with cross-pinning in the collar and through the post of #5 re-bar or equivalent. That's WAY overkill; but because too many people did it half-assed, we all have to follow a code that is unreasonable (not to mention expensive, to get engineered, certified drawings from an architect). LLoyd |
I plan on digginh the hole with a tractor auger and using rebar and
concrete. Is this ok for 2 feet? What is a "deadman"? |
I am not so crazy about trying to roof this thing myself and geting up
that high! Plus, dont know what to do to get the trusses that high. |
wrote in message oups.com... I plan on digginh the hole with a tractor auger and using rebar and concrete. Is this ok for 2 feet? What is a "deadman"? Nope, not unless the concrete footer is at least another two feet deeper. You _NEED_ at least four feet in the ground to give you the lateral load resistance required. (unless you're talking about a continuous footer around the whole periphery of the barn. But then it's not _quite_ a "pole barn" anymore.) LLoyd |
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote in message ink.net... wrote in message oups.com... I plan on digginh the hole with a tractor auger and using rebar and concrete. Is this ok for 2 feet? What is a "deadman"? Nope, not unless the concrete footer is at least another two feet deeper. You _NEED_ at least four feet in the ground to give you the lateral load resistance required. (unless you're talking about a continuous footer around the whole periphery of the barn. But then it's not _quite_ a "pole barn" anymore.) LLoyd What Lloyd said. When mine was built, the holes were about 5' deep and the contractor just poured a bag of dry ready mix concrete into each hole before the poles went in. He said the moisture in the ground would set it up and it would be plenty of foundation for the bottom of the poles. Had no reason to doubt his method, as he'd built many, many poles barns in that part of Southern Indiana with no history of problems. Garrett |
No. Rule of thumb is at least 1/3 of the pole buried for a fence. I
have similar soil. Heavy black dirt/clay. Something with the loads you are talking, I would think this would be the minimum. So, as others have suggested get 16' poles and around 4-5' deep. JW |
Garrett Fulton wrote:
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote in message ink.net... wrote in message oups.com... I plan on digginh the hole with a tractor auger and using rebar and concrete. Is this ok for 2 feet? What is a "deadman"? Nope, not unless the concrete footer is at least another two feet deeper. You _NEED_ at least four feet in the ground to give you the lateral load resistance required. (unless you're talking about a continuous footer around the whole periphery of the barn. But then it's not _quite_ a "pole barn" anymore.) LLoyd What Lloyd said. When mine was built, the holes were about 5' deep and the contractor just poured a bag of dry ready mix concrete into each hole before the poles went in. He said the moisture in the ground would set it up and it would be plenty of foundation for the bottom of the poles. Had no reason to doubt his method, as he'd built many, many poles barns in that part of Southern Indiana with no history of problems. Garrett My Morton building used pressure treated 6x6s made up from three 2x6s nailed together with a with about 12" of rebar crossways IIRC 6" from the bottom. They used a tractor-mounted auger to punch holes about 18" in diameter and 5' deep for each "pole". They dumped one bag of Sakrete in the bottom of the hole, then placed the pole and added a second bag. The hole was then filled with dirt. Ground moisture did the rest. Then there was the 5" concrete pad that held them all down 8o). Take great care to tie things together to prevent wind from lifting the shed off/out of the ground. Thunderstorms/microbursts can really suck things up out of the ground. -- Keith Bowers - Thomasville, NC |
jw wrote:
No. Rule of thumb is at least 1/3 of the pole buried for a fence. I have similar soil. Heavy black dirt/clay. Something with the loads you are talking, I would think this would be the minimum. So, as others have suggested get 16' poles and around 4-5' deep. JW I think the depth depends on the soil type, the perma-frost line, the heaving of soil... Northern clim's need deeper for the frost and heaving more than the south. The south has some bad (to build in) clays that tend to heave or just give way. SO many variables. Martin -- Martin Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Fair enough. In my location, SE MN, the OP depth would not be adequate.
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