Ok looking for a simple answer!
Thanks!

wrote:
Ok looking for a simple answer!
Thanks!

There are 3 basic ways. For short or steep tapers, you can use the
compound rest. Hard to get accurate tapers this way and you have to
hand feed so its harder to get an even finish.
Second is to use a taper attachment on your lathe. But they are
expensive and not all lathes come with them. They take a while to
set-up but once set can be used over and over for multiple parts.
Third is the tailstock set over method. The work must be mounted
between centers using a drive dog. The limitations of this are that the
tailstock can only be moved a relatively small amount so it is good for
fairly small tapers.
Here is a link to various taper turning methods. Goto page 7-36 thru
7-43
http://metalwebnews.com/machine-tools/ch7.pdf

wrote in message
oups.com...
Ok looking for a simple answer!
Thanks!


Everything machineman said, plus a duplicator (hydraulic or mechanical) can
be employed. They used to be fairly common. CNC machines are programmed to
do it as well, and have, for the most part, replaced the duplicators
(tracers).

Harold

On 29 May 2005 09:13:05 -0700, wrote:

Ok looking for a simple answer!
Thanks!

Move the tail stock over

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

And don't forget the natural method that us with worn out lathes use. Make a
cut and hope that the wear in the machine produces the taper we desire. In
fact we have to work hard to get a piece out without a taper
lg
no neat sig line

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
Ok looking for a simple answer!
Thanks!


Everything machineman said, plus a duplicator (hydraulic or mechanical)
can
be employed. They used to be fairly common. CNC machines are programmed
to
do it as well, and have, for the most part, replaced the duplicators
(tracers).

Harold

Machineman...Great link, thanks for posting it.

http://metalwebnews.com/machin=ADe-tools/ch7.pdf=20

Harry C.

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On 29 May 2005 09:13:05 -0700, wrote:

Ok looking for a simple answer!
Thanks!

Move the tail stock over

A bit butcherous, but certainly simple.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

John Sefton wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On 29 May 2005 09:13:05 -0700, wrote:

Ok looking for a simple answer!
Thanks!

Move the tail stock over

A bit butcherous, but certainly simple.

Gunner

?

"Tom" wrote in message
...
John Sefton wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On 29 May 2005 09:13:05 -0700, wrote:

Ok looking for a simple answer!
Thanks!

Move the tail stock over

A bit butcherous, but certainly simple.

Gunner

?

Yeah, me, too!

Harold

On Mon, 30 May 2005 11:27:30 +1000, "John Sefton"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On 29 May 2005 09:13:05 -0700, wrote:

Ok looking for a simple answer!
Thanks!

Move the tail stock over

A bit butcherous, but certainly simple.

And in the early days..the only way.

Actually its quite accurate and works well assuming you set up
properly, and only requires the minimal tooling

Gunner


Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown


"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

In article ,
Gunner wrote:
On Mon, 30 May 2005 11:27:30 +1000, "John Sefton"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
. ..
On 29 May 2005 09:13:05 -0700, wrote:

Ok looking for a simple answer!
Thanks!

Move the tail stock over

A bit butcherous, but certainly simple.

And in the early days..the only way.

Actually its quite accurate and works well assuming you set up
properly, and only requires the minimal tooling

Bearing in mind two factors:

1) The workpiece must be turned between centers for this to work.
Otherwise offsetting the tailstock does little other than making
it difficult to use it for drilling holes in the end of a
workpiece. :-)

2) It is sensitive to length of workpiece. If you have a batch of
workpieces of the same precise length between centers (including
the depth of the center holes), you will get repeatable tapers.
However, if the length varies, the angle will also vary, unless
you spend a lot of time setting up each one separately.


Note that for *some* lathes (e.g. the Unimat SL-1000), a short
workpiece can be taper turned by rotating the headstock to the proper
angle. Obviously, you don't get support from a tailstock center in this
case, so the length is quite limited, but it does work.

You could turn between centers with the Unimat SL-1000 by
offsetting the head (by rotating it as above), but it makes the angle of
the headstock taper to the center hole rather extreme (perhaps three or
four times the angle desired at a minimum). Offsetting the tailstock is
a more gentle approach -- but the Unimat SL-1000 did not provide for
this option.

Other than this, other answers have already covered everything
that *I* can think of, so I'll stop typing now.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 30 May 2005 16:57:13 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

In article ,
Gunner wrote:
On Mon, 30 May 2005 11:27:30 +1000, "John Sefton"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On 29 May 2005 09:13:05 -0700, wrote:

Ok looking for a simple answer!
Thanks!

Move the tail stock over

A bit butcherous, but certainly simple.

And in the early days..the only way.

Actually its quite accurate and works well assuming you set up
properly, and only requires the minimal tooling

Bearing in mind two factors:

1) The workpiece must be turned between centers for this to work.
Otherwise offsetting the tailstock does little other than making
it difficult to use it for drilling holes in the end of a
workpiece. :-)

2) It is sensitive to length of workpiece. If you have a batch of
workpieces of the same precise length between centers (including
the depth of the center holes), you will get repeatable tapers.
However, if the length varies, the angle will also vary, unless
you spend a lot of time setting up each one separately.


Note that for *some* lathes (e.g. the Unimat SL-1000), a short
workpiece can be taper turned by rotating the headstock to the proper
angle. Obviously, you don't get support from a tailstock center in this
case, so the length is quite limited, but it does work.

You could turn between centers with the Unimat SL-1000 by
offsetting the head (by rotating it as above), but it makes the angle of
the headstock taper to the center hole rather extreme (perhaps three or
four times the angle desired at a minimum). Offsetting the tailstock is
a more gentle approach -- but the Unimat SL-1000 did not provide for
this option.

Other than this, other answers have already covered everything
that *I* can think of, so I'll stop typing now.

Enjoy,
DoN.

But wasnt the thread about turning tapers on a lathe? This toy thing
while interesting..is hardly germane.

VBG

Gunner, ducking and running

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown