I need to put some more tiedown points on my utility trailer. Anyone
know where I can find those D-rings in a sleeve that can be welded
down? Or a better suggestion? The trailer has L steel rails that
would be easy to weld down to. Inside dimensions of the D ring need
to be at least 2" for use with the standard wide strap hooks.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

McMasterCarr #110 lists them on pages 1373,1381 and 3100.

Karl

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
I need to put some more tiedown points on my utility trailer. Anyone
know where I can find those D-rings in a sleeve that can be welded
down? Or a better suggestion? The trailer has L steel rails that
would be easy to weld down to. Inside dimensions of the D ring need
to be at least 2" for use with the standard wide strap hooks.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

Gunner wrote:
I need to put some more tiedown points on my utility trailer. Anyone
know where I can find those D-rings in a sleeve that can be welded
down? Or a better suggestion? The trailer has L steel rails that
would be easy to weld down to. Inside dimensions of the D ring need
to be at least 2" for use with the standard wide strap hooks.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

Got somebody local who deals heavy equipment? Farm machinery dealer
might also have them..

John

On Tue, 24 May 2005 16:06:54 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

I need to put some more tiedown points on my utility trailer. Anyone
know where I can find those D-rings in a sleeve that can be welded
down? Or a better suggestion? The trailer has L steel rails that
would be easy to weld down to. Inside dimensions of the D ring need
to be at least 2" for use with the standard wide strap hooks.

http://tinyurl.com/amnej

I wouldn't trust them any further than I could throw a lathe...

--

Clif Holland, KA5IPF
www.avvid.com


"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 24 May 2005 16:06:54 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

I need to put some more tiedown points on my utility trailer. Anyone
know where I can find those D-rings in a sleeve that can be welded
down? Or a better suggestion? The trailer has L steel rails that
would be easy to weld down to. Inside dimensions of the D ring need
to be at least 2" for use with the standard wide strap hooks.

http://tinyurl.com/amnej

Don Foreman wrote:


http://tinyurl.com/amnej

Really, Don -- Northern Tool, some flimsy POS homeowner junk? I would
have expected better than that from you :-)

GWE

Especially when Northern also stocks the serious ones:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...7&storeId=6970

Item # 127282 if that doesn't work.

Grant Erwin wrote:
Don Foreman wrote:


http://tinyurl.com/amnej


Really, Don -- Northern Tool, some flimsy POS homeowner junk? I would
have expected better than that from you :-)

GWE

RoyJ wrote:

Especially when Northern also stocks the serious ones:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...7&storeId=6970


Oh, now that's more like it! -- GWE

Gunner wrote:

I need to put some more tiedown points on my utility trailer. Anyone
know where I can find those D-rings in a sleeve that can be welded
down? Or a better suggestion? The trailer has L steel rails that
would be easy to weld down to. Inside dimensions of the D ring need
to be at least 2" for use with the standard wide strap hooks.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown
Just a shot in the dark - how about at a farm/ranch supply store - one that
supports welding and ranchers... They need that stuff also.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

On Tue, 24 May 2005 16:06:54 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

I need to put some more tiedown points on my utility trailer. Anyone
know where I can find those D-rings in a sleeve that can be welded
down? Or a better suggestion? The trailer has L steel rails that
would be easy to weld down to. Inside dimensions of the D ring need
to be at least 2" for use with the standard wide strap hooks.

NAPA Auto Parts. (Not Pep Boys, they don't sell serious parts.) ;-)

Forged Lashing Rings, with weld down sleeves.
770-7607 5/8" - safe load 6,130# 770-7608 1" - safe load 15,586#

I don't know pricing, but they're usually good - and one of the stores
on the route between Taft and Gardena is bound to stock them. They
also stock the stamped "banjo eye" chain grab tabs.

What I need is 3/8" or 1/2" CRS round rod bent into a long W for
rail tiedown points on a Utility Bed. And they either make it
production somewhere, or someone has a CNC bender that can whip it out
straight on the first try...

I have the Harbor Fright knockoff Hossfeld bender, but it's bound to
come out distorted if it's all bent by hand. (Many of my EMT bends
need a bit of touchup adjustment, so I know of what I speak.)

-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

On Tue, 24 May 2005 23:42:35 -0500, "lionslair at consolidated dot
net" "lionslair at consolidated dot net" wrote:

Gunner wrote:

I need to put some more tiedown points on my utility trailer. Anyone
know where I can find those D-rings in a sleeve that can be welded
down? Or a better suggestion? The trailer has L steel rails that
would be easy to weld down to. Inside dimensions of the D ring need
to be at least 2" for use with the standard wide strap hooks.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown
Just a shot in the dark - how about at a farm/ranch supply store - one that
supports welding and ranchers... They need that stuff also.

Martin

Ill try a couple over the weekend. I need to go to Bakersfield
anyways, so will stop in a few.

Thanks

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

On Tue, 24 May 2005 20:52:07 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

RoyJ wrote:

Especially when Northern also stocks the serious ones:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...7&storeId=6970


Oh, now that's more like it! -- GWE

LOL Glad Roy found the good 'uns I missed. Northern is only
about 2 miles from here, near the bait shop and beer store, so I
usually just go there rather than look thru their website or catalog.

I just bent up some 3/8" rod to make the tiedown loops welded to my
trailer. They work fine with strap, chain or rope, don't rattle
while goin' down the road and they cost about zip. There's about an
inch of vertical "tail" on each side, so there's 4 lineal inches of
weld securing each one. Ya can't have too many tiedown points on a
trailer!

On Wed, 25 May 2005 06:30:29 GMT, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Tue, 24 May 2005 16:06:54 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

I need to put some more tiedown points on my utility trailer. Anyone
know where I can find those D-rings in a sleeve that can be welded
down? Or a better suggestion? The trailer has L steel rails that
would be easy to weld down to. Inside dimensions of the D ring need
to be at least 2" for use with the standard wide strap hooks.

NAPA Auto Parts. (Not Pep Boys, they don't sell serious parts.) ;-)

Forged Lashing Rings, with weld down sleeves.
770-7607 5/8" - safe load 6,130# 770-7608 1" - safe load 15,586#

I don't know pricing, but they're usually good - and one of the stores
on the route between Taft and Gardena is bound to stock them. They
also stock the stamped "banjo eye" chain grab tabs.

What I need is 3/8" or 1/2" CRS round rod bent into a long W for
rail tiedown points on a Utility Bed. And they either make it
production somewhere, or someone has a CNC bender that can whip it out
straight on the first try...

I have the Harbor Fright knockoff Hossfeld bender, but it's bound to
come out distorted if it's all bent by hand. (Many of my EMT bends
need a bit of touchup adjustment, so I know of what I speak.)

-- Bruce --

Just because 3/8" and 1/2" rod can be bent cold doesn't mean it has
to be. It only takes a minute to bend one up with an O/A torch and a
vise. Chalk where you want the bend, heat a region about 3 diameters
wide to red, it'll bend very nicely exactly where and as much as you
want. Quench that bend in the water bucket and make the next one.
You can have half a dozen of 'em made, welded on and painted in less
time than it'd take to go to the store.

Even with steel prices as they are, a 20' chunk of 3/8" round is only
about 5 bux.

snip


Just because 3/8" and 1/2" rod can be bent cold doesn't mean it has
to be. It only takes a minute to bend one up with an O/A torch and a
vise. Chalk where you want the bend, heat a region about 3 diameters
wide to red, it'll bend very nicely exactly where and as much as you
want. Quench that bend in the water bucket and make the next one.

Don't do that!! Much of the rod you get has a higher carbon content
than other hot rolled stock, ESPECIALLY rebar!! Quenching will turn it
into glass. I have the proverbial 'T' shirt on that one.


You can have half a dozen of 'em made, welded on and painted in less
time than it'd take to go to the store.

That makes the raw assumption that you have the %%$#@%%$! right sized
rod in your bin.


Even with steel prices as they are, a 20' chunk of 3/8" round is only
about 5 bux.

On Wed, 25 May 2005 20:10:49 GMT, RoyJ wrote:

snip


Just because 3/8" and 1/2" rod can be bent cold doesn't mean it has
to be. It only takes a minute to bend one up with an O/A torch and a
vise. Chalk where you want the bend, heat a region about 3 diameters
wide to red, it'll bend very nicely exactly where and as much as you
want. Quench that bend in the water bucket and make the next one.

Don't do that!! Much of the rod you get has a higher carbon content
than other hot rolled stock, ESPECIALLY rebar!! Quenching will turn it
into glass. I have the proverbial 'T' shirt on that one.

Rebar, yes, but that'd make pretty rough tiedowns. I think the
roundstock I get is CRS. No mill scale on it. It actually machines
fairly decently, welds very nicely, and I can bend it cold after
heating and quenching without it cracking. Another clue is that it's
in the warehouse with the CRS, not out in the yard with the HRS.


You can have half a dozen of 'em made, welded on and painted in less
time than it'd take to go to the store.

That makes the raw assumption that you have the %%$#@%%$! right sized
rod in your bin.

Usually do. I need to buy some 3/16" (about 40 feet of it) for a
honeydo garden project, though.

On Wed, 25 May 2005 16:50:38 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:


Just because 3/8" and 1/2" rod can be bent cold doesn't mean it has
to be. It only takes a minute to bend one up with an O/A torch and a
vise. Chalk where you want the bend, heat a region about 3 diameters
wide to red, it'll bend very nicely exactly where and as much as you
want. Quench that bend in the water bucket and make the next one.

Don't do that!! Much of the rod you get has a higher carbon content
than other hot rolled stock, ESPECIALLY rebar!! Quenching will turn it
into glass. I have the proverbial 'T' shirt on that one.

Rebar, yes, but that'd make pretty rough tiedowns. I think the
roundstock I get is CRS. No mill scale on it. It actually machines
fairly decently, welds very nicely, and I can bend it cold after
heating and quenching without it cracking. Another clue is that it's
in the warehouse with the CRS, not out in the yard with the HRS.

I stand corrected, educated, and thank you for the tip. I tested a
piece of my 1/4" rodstock today, and by golly it did get brittle
when quenched. I've gotten away with that in the past, but I now
would also say test it first or don't quench it. I didn't test my
3/8" or 1/2" stock yet, but I certainly will in future before
quenching after hot bending.

Thanks, Roy!

On Wed, 25 May 2005 22:54:41 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Wed, 25 May 2005 16:50:38 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:


Just because 3/8" and 1/2" rod can be bent cold doesn't mean it has
to be. It only takes a minute to bend one up with an O/A torch and a
vise. Chalk where you want the bend, heat a region about 3 diameters
wide to red, it'll bend very nicely exactly where and as much as you
want. Quench that bend in the water bucket and make the next one.

Don't do that!! Much of the rod you get has a higher carbon content
than other hot rolled stock, ESPECIALLY rebar!! Quenching will turn it
into glass. I have the proverbial 'T' shirt on that one.

Rebar, yes, but that'd make pretty rough tiedowns. I think the
roundstock I get is CRS. No mill scale on it. It actually machines
fairly decently, welds very nicely, and I can bend it cold after
heating and quenching without it cracking. Another clue is that it's
in the warehouse with the CRS, not out in the yard with the HRS.

I stand corrected, educated, and thank you for the tip. I tested a
piece of my 1/4" rodstock today, and by golly it did get brittle
when quenched. I've gotten away with that in the past, but I now
would also say test it first or don't quench it. I didn't test my
3/8" or 1/2" stock yet, but I certainly will in future before
quenching after hot bending.

Thanks, Roy!

It should be allowed to cool as slowly as possible. Under vermiculite
etc. Ive made similar stuff and tossed it all into a bonfire, then
allowed to cool naturally. Polishing off the soot is a pain in the
ass, but if you have a tumbler or sand blaster.........

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

What I have found is that the "mill" (low end, whatever is in the post)
grades of steel can have some pretty wild variations in carbon content.
Rebar is the poster child for this but hot rolled flats, angle, and rod
are suspect. Cold rolled tends to be a bit more uniform but if it isn't
graded, assume higher carbon and act accordingly.

We were working on a project that was done many times before. Ripped the
teeth out of 3 saw blades in less than an hour. I quaranteened
everything, started running tests. After several hours of tracking
things down, it worked out that ONE hot rolled bar out of the 4 that
came in at the same time had high carborn. I got that bar and all the
parts cut from it out of circulation and things went back to normal.

Quenching the hot material is handy, I used to do it all the time. Weld
and dunk imeediately. Lately I've been a lot more cautious, I wait quite
a while after the red is gone before I finish cooling it off in the bucket.

Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 25 May 2005 16:50:38 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:



Just because 3/8" and 1/2" rod can be bent cold doesn't mean it has
to be. It only takes a minute to bend one up with an O/A torch and a
vise. Chalk where you want the bend, heat a region about 3 diameters
wide to red, it'll bend very nicely exactly where and as much as you
want. Quench that bend in the water bucket and make the next one.

Don't do that!! Much of the rod you get has a higher carbon content
than other hot rolled stock, ESPECIALLY rebar!! Quenching will turn it
into glass. I have the proverbial 'T' shirt on that one.

Rebar, yes, but that'd make pretty rough tiedowns. I think the
roundstock I get is CRS. No mill scale on it. It actually machines
fairly decently, welds very nicely, and I can bend it cold after
heating and quenching without it cracking. Another clue is that it's
in the warehouse with the CRS, not out in the yard with the HRS.


I stand corrected, educated, and thank you for the tip. I tested a
piece of my 1/4" rodstock today, and by golly it did get brittle
when quenched. I've gotten away with that in the past, but I now
would also say test it first or don't quench it. I didn't test my
3/8" or 1/2" stock yet, but I certainly will in future before
quenching after hot bending.

Thanks, Roy!

On Thu, 26 May 2005 07:19:03 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

It should be allowed to cool as slowly as possible. Under vermiculite
etc. Ive made similar stuff and tossed it all into a bonfire, then
allowed to cool naturally. Polishing off the soot is a pain in the
ass, but if you have a tumbler or sand blaster.........

Yup! Small HF blast cabinet with a TP tools S-25 siphon gun. Very
handy tool for cleaning up welds and removing stubborn brazing flux.
The import siphon guns are utter crap, but the S-25 works quite well.

I also have a bucket of vermiculite. It came as packing material for
some nasty chemical I bought once upon a time. Glad I kept it.