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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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thread file - 26TPI ?
Looking for a thread file that can do 26 threads per inch.
Anyone know of a supplier anywhere? Jordan |
#2
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Jordan wrote:
Looking for a thread file that can do 26 threads per inch. Anyone know of a supplier anywhere? Jordan Thread file or thread restorer? Thread files tend toward being a lot scarcer. Sykes-Pickavant make thread restorers that any tool outfit in Oz should carry. The BSF & Whit #015600 has 11,12,14,16,18,22,& 26 tpi Tom |
#3
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Jordan
Have you considered going over the threads twice with a 13 TPI file? You can also do this with a 3 sided chain saw file. Neither of the thread files I have a 26 TPI. lg no neat sig line "Jordan" wrote in message ... Looking for a thread file that can do 26 threads per inch. Anyone know of a supplier anywhere? Jordan |
#4
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"larry g" wrote in message ... Jordan Have you considered going over the threads twice with a 13 TPI file? You can also do this with a 3 sided chain saw file. Neither of the thread files I have a 26 TPI. lg no neat sig line Depending on the nature of the thread, that might not work. The flat on a 26 pitch thread is much smaller than one on a 13 pitch. The file could do some serious damage to the thread form as a result, likely working near the pitch diameter and ignoring the minor diameter. Harold |
#5
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Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:
"larry g" wrote in message ... Jordan Have you considered going over the threads twice with a 13 TPI file? You can also do this with a 3 sided chain saw file. Neither of the thread files I have a 26 TPI. lg no neat sig line Depending on the nature of the thread, that might not work. The flat on a 26 pitch thread is much smaller than one on a 13 pitch. The file could do some serious damage to the thread form as a result, likely working near the pitch diameter and ignoring the minor diameter. Harold Especially as 26 tpi is 55º BSW thread form with the attendant radius at the root. Tom |
#6
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I'd prefer a 26TPI thread file.
Neat idea though! Jordan larry g wrote: Have you considered going over the threads twice with a 13 TPI file? |
#7
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The 26TPI I want is 60 degree, known as British Standard Cycle.
The 55 deg, 26 TPI is British Standard Brass, which has a Whitworth form. I'm not worried about the angle though - just want to improve threads to a usable state, and I've found I can mix 55 and 60deg OK. I bought a thread restorer recently, unbranded box so probably Asian. Not sure if I'm using it correctly, even the required direction to turn it (no instructions included), but I couldn't get it to work. At over $40 Australian, no bargain. Jordan Tom wrote: Especially as 26 tpi is 55º BSW thread form with the attendant radius at the root. |
#8
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"Jordan" wrote in message ... snip---- I bought a thread restorer recently, unbranded box so probably Asian. Not sure if I'm using it correctly, even the required direction to turn it (no instructions included), but I couldn't get it to work. At over $40 Australian, no bargain. Jordan I'm not a fan of these things, although I have one in my tool cabinet. If you compare them to a file, they are sure to not please you. From all indications, they cut poorly, even those that are well made. They are better than not having a like tool, however. In order to use yours successfully, rotate the thread in question at a low speed, then stroke the file (forward only) rapidly as the piece rotates. Try to keep the orientation of the file at a right angle to the part in question so you don't alter the form. As each tooth of the file contacts the centerline of the part, it will remove anything that doesn't comfortably fit the file profile. It stands to reason that this is less than perfect, but it does restore the old profile to some degree. I've salvaged a few threads that way, but I don't recommend the process for critical threads. The file can also be applied to a stationary thread, assuming there is local damage, but it's almost impossible to remove it unless the file can pilot on good threads, removing only that portion of the damage that interferes with thread function. Good luck! Harold |
#9
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"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message ... "larry g" wrote in message ... Jordan Have you considered going over the threads twice with a 13 TPI file? You can also do this with a 3 sided chain saw file. Neither of the thread files I have a 26 TPI. lg no neat sig line Depending on the nature of the thread, that might not work. The flat on a 26 pitch thread is much smaller than one on a 13 pitch. The file could do some serious damage to the thread form as a result, likely working near the pitch diameter and ignoring the minor diameter. Harold Dang Harold there ya go with that precision thinking again. Picture this; Its 3 am and the corn picker is busted and you've got a to have a 100 ton to the cannery by daybreak. If you got any thread file to rework the threads you're gonna make it work. Its all a matter of perspective. I actually went out to the shop and tried a 10 TPI file on a 20 TPI bolt and your correct that the flat may not be exact but it would get the damaged threads workable again. The file teeth did not seem to fully engage the width of the thread vee so one would have to work one side of the vee and then the other. I believe that anyone in the position to have to use a thread file is going to only remove the material that is in the way of the engaging threads. First choice would probably be a die. lg no neat sig line |
#10
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"larry g" wrote in message ... "Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message ... "larry g" wrote in message ... Jordan Have you considered going over the threads twice with a 13 TPI file? You can also do this with a 3 sided chain saw file. Neither of the thread files I have a 26 TPI. lg no neat sig line Depending on the nature of the thread, that might not work. The flat on a 26 pitch thread is much smaller than one on a 13 pitch. The file could do some serious damage to the thread form as a result, likely working near the pitch diameter and ignoring the minor diameter. Harold Dang Harold there ya go with that precision thinking again. Picture this; Its 3 am and the corn picker is busted and you've got a to have a 100 ton to the cannery by daybreak. If you got any thread file to rework the threads you're gonna make it work. Its all a matter of perspective. I actually went out to the shop and tried a 10 TPI file on a 20 TPI bolt and your correct that the flat may not be exact but it would get the damaged threads workable again. The file teeth did not seem to fully engage the width of the thread vee so one would have to work one side of the vee and then the other. I believe that anyone in the position to have to use a thread file is going to only remove the material that is in the way of the engaging threads. First choice would probably be a die. lg no neat sig line Chuckle! Those amongst us that are so anal really have a hard time with these kluged up fixes! :-) I keep thinking about the missile that failed because someone made an inferior repair. Sigh. Did you get the corn in on time? g Harold |
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