I have a threaded water connection (brass into brass) with a tiny leak.
It won't even make a drip over several hours, but when I rub my finger
on the bottom side, I can feel and see the water that was there. I
don't want to close up the wall with it this way, and I also don't want
to undo the connection (lots of work and I don't want to disturb the
rest of it for fear of worse problems).

I have tried Seal-All, but it remains pliable and bubbles from the
leak. I have tried PermaGasket (from my car repair kit) but it's too
soft...the water comes on through. I have tried a tape that resembles
electrical tape, but you stretch it and then it recovers to make a
tight "seal", but the water still eventually comes through.

I have considered turning off the water, draining the section, drying
it thoroughly, and applying some epoxy, but before doing this, it
occurred to me that you guys may know the perfect solution.

What would you do?



Joe

Can you drain and solder it?

John Harlow wrote:
Can you drain and solder it?

I forgot to mention that I had tried that, but I had some trouble
getting the solder to adhere. My best effort seemed a bit....lacking.

Are there special techniques for soldering brass?


Joe

"Joe S" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a threaded water connection (brass into brass) with a tiny leak.
It won't even make a drip over several hours, but when I rub my finger
on the bottom side, I can feel and see the water that was there. I
don't want to close up the wall with it this way, and I also don't want
to undo the connection (lots of work and I don't want to disturb the
rest of it for fear of worse problems).


What would you do?

I'd take it apart and fix it properly. Sometimes leaks will stop as the
opening clogs with minerals from the water, but since this is in a wall, you
don't know that for sure and cannot check on it.

Can you drain and solder it?

I forgot to mention that I had tried that, but I had some trouble
getting the solder to adhere. My best effort seemed a bit....lacking.

Are there special techniques for soldering brass?

Clean all surfaces, use flux and the right amount of heat. If there is any
water in the line it's not going to work.

I think this will be a hack though. Your best bet is to take it all apart
and fix it right. Many times I've spent more time trying to make something
work than to simply do it right in the first place.

I bought a pipe repair kit at my local Lowe's that uses an epoxy for
around $10. Basically you soak the strip and wrap the pipe with it and
let it dry. Worked like a charm.

yeah ive seen that stuff. it works.

for a while...

randy

wrote in message
ups.com...
I bought a pipe repair kit at my local Lowe's that uses an epoxy for
around $10. Basically you soak the strip and wrap the pipe with it and
let it dry. Worked like a charm.

John Harlow wrote:
Can you drain and solder it?

I forgot to mention that I had tried that, but I had some trouble
getting the solder to adhere. My best effort seemed a
bit....lacking.

Are there special techniques for soldering brass?

Clean all surfaces, use flux and the right amount of heat. If there
is any
water in the line it's not going to work.

I think this will be a hack though. Your best bet is to take it all
apart
and fix it right. Many times I've spent more time trying to make
something
work than to simply do it right in the first place.

Problem is....the "right" fix would involve buying a whole new tub
valve ($65 or more) to replace this already virtually brand new one. I
suspect the problem is that the threaded inlet is very slightly
out-of-round due to light tapping (okay, maybe light banging) with a
hammer to get it into place.

Believe me...I've learned my lesson...if I had it to do over again, I
certainly wouldn't do it again. I will NOT be touching the shower valve
I'm going to put in with any sort of hammer-like tool.....esp. since
the valve costs 3+ times as much.

I'd prefer a hack to re-buying the valve.


Joe

"Joe S" wrote in message
ups.com...

John Harlow wrote:
Can you drain and solder it?

I forgot to mention that I had tried that, but I had some trouble
getting the solder to adhere. My best effort seemed a
bit....lacking.

Are there special techniques for soldering brass?

Clean all surfaces, use flux and the right amount of heat. If there
is any
water in the line it's not going to work.

I think this will be a hack though. Your best bet is to take it all
apart
and fix it right. Many times I've spent more time trying to make
something
work than to simply do it right in the first place.

Problem is....the "right" fix would involve buying a whole new tub
valve ($65 or more) to replace this already virtually brand new one. I
suspect the problem is that the threaded inlet is very slightly
out-of-round due to light tapping (okay, maybe light banging) with a
hammer to get it into place.

Believe me...I've learned my lesson...if I had it to do over again, I
certainly wouldn't do it again. I will NOT be touching the shower valve
I'm going to put in with any sort of hammer-like tool.....esp. since
the valve costs 3+ times as much.

I'd prefer a hack to re-buying the valve.


Joe


can't you just take it apart and put it back together with some teflon tape?
Pipe fittings have an interference fit so they seal as you tighten it. If
you think you over tightened it and thats why it leaks(because its bottomed
out) perhaps some teflon tape will make it seal.

But for how long with a pipe under pressure? I've used different kinds of
epoxy, form the one that suppose to fix engine blocks to the ones
specifically for pipe repairs. All stop the leaks for a few days but given
enough time, a month or two, they all failed.


wrote in message
ups.com...
I bought a pipe repair kit at my local Lowe's that uses an epoxy for
around $10. Basically you soak the strip and wrap the pipe with it and
let it dry. Worked like a charm.

Kathy wrote:
"Joe S" wrote in message
ups.com...

John Harlow wrote:
Can you drain and solder it?

I forgot to mention that I had tried that, but I had some
trouble
getting the solder to adhere. My best effort seemed a
bit....lacking.

Are there special techniques for soldering brass?

Clean all surfaces, use flux and the right amount of heat. If
there
is any
water in the line it's not going to work.

I think this will be a hack though. Your best bet is to take it
all
apart
and fix it right. Many times I've spent more time trying to make
something
work than to simply do it right in the first place.

Problem is....the "right" fix would involve buying a whole new tub
valve ($65 or more) to replace this already virtually brand new
one. I
suspect the problem is that the threaded inlet is very slightly
out-of-round due to light tapping (okay, maybe light banging) with
a
hammer to get it into place.

Believe me...I've learned my lesson...if I had it to do over again,
I
certainly wouldn't do it again. I will NOT be touching the shower
valve
I'm going to put in with any sort of hammer-like tool.....esp.
since
the valve costs 3+ times as much.

I'd prefer a hack to re-buying the valve.


Joe


can't you just take it apart and put it back together with some
teflon tape?
Pipe fittings have an interference fit so they seal as you tighten
it. If
you think you over tightened it and thats why it leaks(because its
bottomed
out) perhaps some teflon tape will make it seal.


It's had teflon tape applied each time it's been screwed in (that's a
few times) but that doesn't seem to help this problem. When I have
unscrewed it previously, the teflon tape has appeared to be virtual
nothingness on the thread portions that had had contact.

I had finally had gotten all the soldering done and everything in place
and then the next morning I was checking all the joints and found the
smallest amount of wetness on this one place. It's like when I run my
finger along the bottom of the joint, I feel some wetness and see a
strip of water on my finger maybe 1/32" wide and and inch long....maybe
a quarter of a drip. It doesn't actively drip, though.


Joe

Joe S wrote:
It's had teflon tape applied each time it's been screwed in (that's a
few times) but that doesn't seem to help this problem. When I have
unscrewed it previously, the teflon tape has appeared to be virtual
nothingness on the thread portions that had had contact.

Use more tape.

You will have to turn off the water supply to it, and let the water drain
out. If there is water inside, and you are trying to solder the pipe, the
water will not allow the metal surface to come up to the proper temperature
to be soldered.

After the water is properly drained, carefully sand down the surface to be
very clean. Then apply solder flux, and rub it in with a tissue paper or
disposable cloth. Add some more flux to make sure that there is a coating of
it on the pipe surface where you want the solder to flow.

Heat the area very well with a propane or equivalent torch. Once it is hot
enough, apply the solder in a fashion to have it flow around. Add the solder
as necessary.

It is best to solder copper pipe. The old steel type of pipe does not solder
very well. It is best to use welding with an assetlene torch if it is a
steel pipe. It will take a fair amount of heat to do this.

The best way, is to fit new pieces of pipe in, that are properly threaded.
You will have to make some new threads on the older pipes that are in place,
and use the proper fittings, with the proper sealing tape. This is the best
solution.

If you cannot do all this, it would pay to spend the few dollars and have a
professional plumber do it for you. They are properly equipped, and must
guarantee their work.

--

Jerry G.
======


"Joe S" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a threaded water connection (brass into brass) with a tiny leak.
It won't even make a drip over several hours, but when I rub my finger
on the bottom side, I can feel and see the water that was there. I
don't want to close up the wall with it this way, and I also don't want
to undo the connection (lots of work and I don't want to disturb the
rest of it for fear of worse problems).

I have tried Seal-All, but it remains pliable and bubbles from the
leak. I have tried PermaGasket (from my car repair kit) but it's too
soft...the water comes on through. I have tried a tape that resembles
electrical tape, but you stretch it and then it recovers to make a
tight "seal", but the water still eventually comes through.

I have considered turning off the water, draining the section, drying
it thoroughly, and applying some epoxy, but before doing this, it
occurred to me that you guys may know the perfect solution.

What would you do?



Joe

Joe S wrote:
I have a threaded water connection (brass into brass) with a tiny
leak.
It won't even make a drip over several hours, but when I rub my
finger
on the bottom side, I can feel and see the water that was there. I
don't want to close up the wall with it this way, and I also don't
want
to undo the connection (lots of work and I don't want to disturb the
rest of it for fear of worse problems).

I have tried Seal-All, but it remains pliable and bubbles from the
leak. I have tried PermaGasket (from my car repair kit) but it's too
soft...the water comes on through. I have tried a tape that resembles
electrical tape, but you stretch it and then it recovers to make a
tight "seal", but the water still eventually comes through.

I have considered turning off the water, draining the section, drying
it thoroughly, and applying some epoxy, but before doing this, it
occurred to me that you guys may know the perfect solution.

What would you do?



Joe


Will you have relatively easy access to it after you're done?
Generally tub and shower fittings should be accessible through an
access panel in the wall. Often this is in the back of a closet so it
doesn't show. If you will have access, and you don't want to fix it the
"right" way, you can just put a pan to catch the drips and check it
every so often to see if it stops (silts up) on its own. If you will
not have access, probably you should bite the bullet and redo it with a
new part.

I must gently agree with you. Uh, should I say more than that? Well, I guess
this is usenet.....

"D'uh!"

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Jerry G." wrote in message
...


It is best to solder copper pipe. The old steel type of pipe does not solder
very well.

Is it a cold faucet? Might be just condensation.

Try teflon, and then a dose of Rectorseal #5 thread sealant. I have been
taught to use that combination when I do water pipes. works nicely.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Joe S" wrote in message
ups.com...


can't you just take it apart and put it back together with some
teflon tape?
Pipe fittings have an interference fit so they seal as you tighten
it. If
you think you over tightened it and thats why it leaks(because its
bottomed
out) perhaps some teflon tape will make it seal.


It's had teflon tape applied each time it's been screwed in (that's a
few times) but that doesn't seem to help this problem. When I have
unscrewed it previously, the teflon tape has appeared to be virtual
nothingness on the thread portions that had had contact.

I had finally had gotten all the soldering done and everything in place
and then the next morning I was checking all the joints and found the
smallest amount of wetness on this one place. It's like when I run my
finger along the bottom of the joint, I feel some wetness and see a
strip of water on my finger maybe 1/32" wide and and inch long....maybe
a quarter of a drip. It doesn't actively drip, though.


Joe

You might try to surf on over to loctite's website. I've used a product
from
them several times that you apply after the joints are made. Granted this
is for
applications on my Jeep and not your valve stuck in a wall so take this
advice with
a grain of salt. If I remember correctly, the stuff I used was in a green
tube but I
don't remember the loctite number on it. I've seen it in auto parts stores.
Cheers,
cc

"Joe S" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a threaded water connection (brass into brass) with a tiny leak.
It won't even make a drip over several hours, but when I rub my finger
on the bottom side, I can feel and see the water that was there. I
don't want to close up the wall with it this way, and I also don't want
to undo the connection (lots of work and I don't want to disturb the
rest of it for fear of worse problems).

I have tried Seal-All, but it remains pliable and bubbles from the
leak. I have tried PermaGasket (from my car repair kit) but it's too
soft...the water comes on through. I have tried a tape that resembles
electrical tape, but you stretch it and then it recovers to make a
tight "seal", but the water still eventually comes through.

I have considered turning off the water, draining the section, drying
it thoroughly, and applying some epoxy, but before doing this, it
occurred to me that you guys may know the perfect solution.

What would you do?



Joe

Loctite and some other manufacturers sell a wicking sealant that will
use capillary action to seep into the gaps of a loose fitting.

http://www.shipstore.com/ss/html/LOC/LOC29000.html

http://www.higherpowersupplies.com/p...PROD/VM-112367

I've had -trouble- getting the solder to stick sometimes no matter how well
I cleaned up the pipes. Once while replacing a water htr. I got frustrated
with the solder and got my oxy-acetylene and my HVAC rods and 10 min. later
the job was history!
Barrie

"Joe S" wrote in message
oups.com...

John Harlow wrote:
Can you drain and solder it?

I forgot to mention that I had tried that, but I had some trouble
getting the solder to adhere. My best effort seemed a bit....lacking.

Are there special techniques for soldering brass?


Joe