I soldered some 3/4" pipe and didn't like the looks of some of the joints;
there were a few spots that didn't show solder and I don't want any leaks..
So I took them apart. The insides were completely tinned on both parts, so
the joints were probably okay. (Is that a fair evaluation?) But after I
cleaned them up they wouldn't go back together again because of the
thickness of the solder. I heated them up and worked them back together,
and added a little more solder. Now the joint looks fine.

Is it? I didn't use any flux the second time because it just would have
fried off, but since the joint was already tinned from the first time, that
shouldn't matter should it? The flux is just to get the solder to flow over
the copper, so it shouldn't be necessary on tinned copper. Right?

On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 22:30:45 GMT, "toller" wrote:

I soldered some 3/4" pipe and didn't like the looks of some of the joints;
there were a few spots that didn't show solder and I don't want any leaks..
So I took them apart. The insides were completely tinned on both parts, so
the joints were probably okay. (Is that a fair evaluation?) But after I
cleaned them up they wouldn't go back together again because of the
thickness of the solder. I heated them up and worked them back together,
and added a little more solder. Now the joint looks fine.

Sometimes you get lucky g.

Is it? I didn't use any flux the second time because it just would have
fried off, but since the joint was already tinned from the first time, that
shouldn't matter should it? The flux is just to get the solder to flow over
the copper, so it shouldn't be necessary on tinned copper. Right?

Not really. What flux is intended for is to remove oxidation and
corrosion from the surface and to prevent oxidation during soldering.
That will help the solder flow better but this is a side effect of a
clean joint.

Steve Manes
Brooklyn, NY
http://www.magpie.com/house/bbs

toller wrote:

I soldered some 3/4" pipe and didn't like the looks of some of the joints;
there were a few spots that didn't show solder and I don't want any leaks..
So I took them apart. The insides were completely tinned on both parts, so
the joints were probably okay. (Is that a fair evaluation?) But after I
cleaned them up they wouldn't go back together again because of the
thickness of the solder. I heated them up and worked them back together,
and added a little more solder. Now the joint looks fine.

Is it? I didn't use any flux the second time because it just would have
fried off, but since the joint was already tinned from the first time, that
shouldn't matter should it? The flux is just to get the solder to flow over
the copper, so it shouldn't be necessary on tinned copper. Right?

Probably, but they were also probably better before you took them
apart...

If you see that again, I'd suggest just reheating and wicking a little
more solder in rather than taking them apart...

The acid test (so to speak) will be the pressure test...

I think if it leaks its wrong. If it does not leak it is right.
"toller" wrote in message
news
I soldered some 3/4" pipe and didn't like the looks of some of the joints;
there were a few spots that didn't show solder and I don't want any leaks..
So I took them apart. The insides were completely tinned on both parts, so
the joints were probably okay. (Is that a fair evaluation?) But after I
cleaned them up they wouldn't go back together again because of the
thickness of the solder. I heated them up and worked them back together,
and added a little more solder. Now the joint looks fine.

Is it? I didn't use any flux the second time because it just would have
fried off, but since the joint was already tinned from the first time,
that shouldn't matter should it? The flux is just to get the solder to
flow over the copper, so it shouldn't be necessary on tinned copper.
Right?

"John Smith" wrote in message
...
I think if it leaks its wrong. If it does not leak it is right.

Thanks John; people like you make the internet worthwhile.

Use a Minimag and a miror. Can you see silver all the way around, where the
two parts come together? If so, you likely got it right.

If you're going at it a second time, wirebrush and then add some more flux.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"toller" wrote in message
news I soldered some 3/4" pipe and didn't like the looks of some of the joints;
there were a few spots that didn't show solder and I don't want any leaks..
So I took them apart. The insides were completely tinned on both parts, so
the joints were probably okay. (Is that a fair evaluation?) But after I
cleaned them up they wouldn't go back together again because of the
thickness of the solder. I heated them up and worked them back together,
and added a little more solder. Now the joint looks fine.

Is it? I didn't use any flux the second time because it just would have
fried off, but since the joint was already tinned from the first time, that
shouldn't matter should it? The flux is just to get the solder to flow over
the copper, so it shouldn't be necessary on tinned copper. Right?