As regulars on this group know (!), I've moved in with mom and as a
Sandwich Generation kid (formerly known as Baby Boomer) have like a
trillion home improvement projects on my hands.

Last summer, I put up that rubber-flanged vinyl molding around a garage
door completely bare. The fact the door is completely bare wouldn't
have been such a problem if the garage wasn't in her/our basement!
(She was paying electric bills of $400+ a month here in the mountains.)

Anyway, while this molding helped somewhat, a much greater source of
wind--yes, wind--is the fact that the poured concrete "garage" (read
"cellar") floor is out of level. I've been using throw rugs to chink
up the place where the floor drops.

Aside from replacing the entire door--which should have been replaced
years ago--but now can't be because she has other more urgent home
repair issues--and won't sell the d*@m house--even though we were just
through one wicked ice storm-- I say aside from replacing the entire
door, can anyone come up with ideas of how to handle this unevenness in
a cosmetically acceptable way?

We look like unfortunate Bosnians, with crappy carpets inside and out.
(TIA, yeah, I know!)

wrote:
....
Aside from replacing the entire door--which should have been
replaced
years ago--but now can't be because she has other more urgent
home
repair issues--and won't sell the d*@m house--even though we
were just
through one wicked ice storm-- I say aside from replacing the
entire
door, can anyone come up with ideas of how to handle this
unevenness
in a cosmetically acceptable way?
....

I would think a piece of wood or suitable material fastened to
the bottom of the door to complete the closure, and wide/thick
enough to accept the normal door seal material, would work, would
it not? I've noticed my own garage doors were cut on the bottom
section to align well with the floor slope - so I don't know why
you couldn't sandwich the door with something that would conform
to the concrete.
Make all your templates etc. with the door down all the way -
you don't want to change the door position, just fasten something
to it to fill in the gaps and to accept a door bottom seal.
You should probably use treated wood unless you opt for
aluminum, so it might add enogh weight to the door to require a
tension adjustment.

Pop

wrote in message
oups.com...


Anyway, while this molding helped somewhat, a much greater source of
wind--yes, wind--is the fact that the poured concrete "garage" (read
"cellar") floor is out of level. I've been using throw rugs to chink
up the place where the floor drops.

Cut a strip of plywood or a 1 x 4 the length of the door. Lay it on the
ground next to the door (level) and using a compass or dividers to follow
the contour, scribe the bottom of the wood. Now use a jig saw to follow
the line. Attach this to the bottom panel of the door for a near perfect
fit. You can put some 3/4" insullting strip on the bottom for a better
seal.

Edwin and Pop always come through Thanks! I'm amazed I didn't think
of *something* like what you suggested myself. I'd attached a furring
strip to the absolute bottom of the door where it makes contact with
the floor; and it didn't work.
You guys give do-able responses to beginners; that's awfully kind.

" writes:
Edwin and Pop always come through Thanks! I'm amazed I didn't think
If I wanted to do an "insulative" plug, i'd do something like this:
1: put a 4' wide tarp centered along the line of the door.
2: on top of that, put a single long sheet of "clear" food wrap
centered on where the door hits the floor.
(have ready another piece of food wrap the same length.)
3: Get a can of expanding foam, put a nice fat strip of it down the
line with where the door would hit, then quickly put the second
piece of clear wrap on top... a "foam" sandwich if you will.
4: close door.
The door should displace the foam along it's length.
The foam sticks to *everything* (except the clear wrap in my
experience) which is the purpose of the tarp, etc. Protect anyplace
you think it will ooze.
5: once the foam cures, you should be able to open the door, remove
the clear wrap, and cut away anything that "stuck out" leaving you
with a perfect gasket for the bottom of the door.

6: Paint the gasket with a primer and UV protective paint to match the
rest of the door.

The gasket should be light and easy to attach to the door with caulk
or adhesive... even hook and loop (velcro) strips if you want to be
able to remove it.

I havn't done this, but i have played with foam and clear wrap (making
props for theatre) and it should work. It should not add any
significant weight to the door like wood might.

--
be safe.
flip
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