jeff wrote:

...
My gas dryer stopped producing heat. After reading your site I was
able to
determine it was the igniter. $15 later problem solved. Thanks for
all the
great info.

I am glad we helped!!

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

I have the same GE gas dryer, a while back I replaced the igniter and
all was good. Dryer stopped heating again. There is 120 going to the
burner unit. I don't have an Ohm meter (yet) so I tested continuity
with a battery operated continuity tester. Both coils, igniter, radiant
sensor and high limit show continuity. The coils and igniter barely
light the tester. The radiant sensor and high limit light the tester
very bright. Is this a valid test? I'm stuck. Can you advise?

Hi,

Dryer stopped heating again. There is 120 going to the
burner unit.

The ignitor is comming on and glowing red?

That is the place to start...ignitor workign or not working and what
happens after the ignitor gets good and hot....ignitor goes out,
ignitor stays glowing, ect.

The coils and igniter barely
light the tester. The radiant sensor and high limit light the tester
very bright. Is this a valid test?

The coils are a much higher resistance than the sensor and thermostats
are so the light will be less. But the coils on the gas valve are bad
for working once or twice and then opening up ( no continuity ) and
failing.
http://www.applianceaid.com/gas_dryer.html#noheat
jeff
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

The ignitor is coming on and glowing red?

No, it does not. When I push the button for heat I hear a click
that sounds like its coming from the burner and then nothing.

But the coils on the gas valve are bad
for working once or twice and then opening up
( no continuity ) andfailing.

These coils are the originals. One has 3 pins and
the other has 2. There is continuity between all the
pins for each coil. Do I need to get an ohm meter to
measure the resistance?
Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate the help.

There is 120 to the igniter and NO glow, so I guess when I replaced it
I screwed it up. It was just the igniter portion not the holder. I took
it back out and there are a few small black marks where the base of the
igniter contacts the holder. I guess I need the whole shebang this
time. Any tricks to putting in a new igniter into an old holder,for
future reference?

I re-installed the old igniter twisting it slightly in the holder so it
makes better contact. It now glows. Do you think it will last a while
being it was already slightly a little chared or should jI ust order
new parts before I put the whole dryer back together.

wrote:
I re-installed the old igniter twisting it slightly in the holder so
it
makes better contact. It now glows. Do you think it will last a while
being it was already slightly a little chared or should jI ust order
new parts before I put the whole dryer back together.

Hi,

there are a few small black marks where the base of the
igniter contacts the holder. I guess I need the whole shebang this
time.

Yupper...bad connection between the holder and ignitor will cause those
burnt/arc marks and prevent the ignitor from working. *May* get away
with sanding the holder clean and pinching tighter for more contact and
replace the ignitor again.

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=2761
Bracket assembly, round style igniter.
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=3428
Gas igniter, round style.

New parts is the best repair.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/