hello, we're trying to put up a closet system and had to tear down the
previous shelves. they were mounted atop horizontal 2x4's that were
nailed into the wall at the studs and the whole closet painted. well,
in pulling off the 2x4's, it ripped the top paper sheet (or is it
paint) of the drywall. what's the best way to repair these surface
tears? they go all the way around the walkin. of course, we'll plan
to repaint.

thanks

wrote in message
oups.com...
hello, we're trying to put up a closet system and had to tear down the
previous shelves. they were mounted atop horizontal 2x4's that were
nailed into the wall at the studs and the whole closet painted. well,
in pulling off the 2x4's, it ripped the top paper sheet (or is it
paint) of the drywall. what's the best way to repair these surface
tears? they go all the way around the walkin. of course, we'll plan
to repaint.
You don't replace the paper you just plaster over it with a very broad
sheetrock joint knife or a 12 inch straight-edged bladed trowel thingy they
sell for doing large joints. Looks like a sheetmetal ruler.
I've used spackle for small jobs. Regular sheetrock joint compound will
also work, but you may have to buy a lot of it. First bevel-trim torn paper
edges with a really sharp utility knife or razor blade, so the edges lay
flat and won't pop up as you wipe on the spackle. Also, dampen the surface
just before plastering, as dry sheetrock will suck the moisture from the
spackle, causing uneven drying or poor adhesion. It may take several
applications, with some sanding in between coats.

"Roger" wrote in message
news:WCKyd.6898$k25.1297@attbi_s53...

wrote in message
oups.com...
hello, we're trying to put up a closet system and had to tear down the
previous shelves. they were mounted atop horizontal 2x4's that were
nailed into the wall at the studs and the whole closet painted. well,
in pulling off the 2x4's, it ripped the top paper sheet (or is it
paint) of the drywall. what's the best way to repair these surface
tears? they go all the way around the walkin. of course, we'll plan
to repaint.
You don't replace the paper you just plaster over it with a very broad
sheetrock joint knife or a 12 inch straight-edged bladed trowel thingy
they sell for doing large joints. Looks like a sheetmetal ruler.
I've used spackle for small jobs. Regular sheetrock joint compound will
also work, but you may have to buy a lot of it. First bevel-trim torn
paper edges with a really sharp utility knife or razor blade, so the edges
lay flat and won't pop up as you wipe on the spackle. Also, dampen the
surface just before plastering, as dry sheetrock will suck the moisture
from the spackle, causing uneven drying or poor adhesion. It may take
several applications, with some sanding in between coats.

original poster didn't mention any kind of texture, if repaired area needs
texture, home depot/lowe's sell can of spray texture, about $12, come with 3
straws for 3 different sizes of texture;
or match texture to existing texture using drywall mud and whatever tool
(brusk, rake, sponge, etc.) needed

wrote in message
oups.com...
hello, we're trying to put up a closet system and had to tear down the
previous shelves. they were mounted atop horizontal 2x4's that were
nailed into the wall at the studs and the whole closet painted. well,
in pulling off the 2x4's, it ripped the top paper sheet (or is it
paint) of the drywall. what's the best way to repair these surface
tears? they go all the way around the walkin. of course, we'll plan
to repaint.

thanks


Skim coat it with drywall mud after removing all loose paper. Use a
applicator (drywall knife trowel) that is wider than the repair area. Apply
two or more coats, keep them thin to avoid sanding. Drywall mud can be
purchased in 1 and 5 gallon buckets. The 5 gallon costs about the price of
2 ones most places. For one time use a cheap plastic mud pan is all you
need.

Colbyt