I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

Thanks

Leroy Mowry wrote:
I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

Thanks












Hi,
I'd cut and splice.
Much quicker.
Tony

When I have a gate valve that's too hard to get to I usually just
rebuild it. Put in a new washer and replace the crappy copper screw
that holds it in with stainless steel.

"Childfree Scott" wrote in message
m...
When I have a gate valve that's too hard to get to I usually
just
rebuild it. Put in a new washer and replace the crappy copper
screw
that holds it in with stainless steel.

As far as I know, gate valves don't have washers or screws to
hold them.

Bob

Tony Hwang wrote in message news:9pTrd.419787$%k.383645@pd7tw2no...
Leroy Mowry wrote:
I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

Thanks












Hi,
I'd cut and splice.
Much quicker.
Tony

Yep.
If you can't cut and then remove both ends and refit with the new
valve (you might have to insert a union) you can either rethread the
cut ends or use a 'Dressler' couplings (not sure of spelling but any
plumber will recognize that). They fit loosely over the pipe and have
two screw caps that tighten down gaskets for sealing.

Harry K

In article , "Leroy Mowry" wrote:
I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

1. Saw through the pipe downstream of the valve.
2. Unscrew the valve from the other pipe.
3. Unscrew the cut pipe from the nearest fitting.
4. Reassemble with your new valve, two short sections of pipe, and a union.

sounds like the simplest job is just to leave the gate valve since it will
stay at full open then just put the ball valve further upstream. Just leave
it there it is doing no harm. Without a picture it is hard to offer advice


Wayne

"Leroy Mowry" wrote in message
. com...
I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

Thanks

"Leroy Mowry" wrote in message
. com...
I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

Thanks


What kind of pipe?

doug gave correct answer.
Dont listen to the others.



"Dan Hall" wrote in message
...

"Leroy Mowry" wrote in message
. com...
I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

Thanks


What kind of pipe?

dont need union though.
replace with copper.
use a slip coupling if you can't get pipe ends together;
which is likely if there is only 3 feet of pipe exposed.
your well tank that is on the other side possibly can be moved
enough to allow a coupling.


it just dawned on me though that there should NOT be a valve there.
the valve needs to be on the other side of the well tank/pressure switch.





"Ned Flanders" wrote in message
news:y_5sd.42$cJ4.11@trndny05...
doug gave correct answer.
Dont listen to the others.



"Dan Hall" wrote in message
...

"Leroy Mowry" wrote in message
. com...
I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

Thanks


What kind of pipe?

Yep- I agree with that. -Dan

"Ned Flanders" wrote in message
news:y_5sd.42$cJ4.11@trndny05...
doug gave correct answer.
Dont listen to the others.



"Dan Hall" wrote in message
...

"Leroy Mowry" wrote in message
. com...
I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

Thanks


What kind of pipe?

"Leroy Mowry"

I saw you got a lot of advice, but the guy who explained about using a
union with a new ball valve was correct (and this is written from the
plumbing newsgroup). Since you didn't know about threaded unions, you might
need to get some help on this. It's not as easy as it sounds.

Mike

In article ,
Leroy Mowry wrote:
I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

Thanks













Just leave the gate valve where it is in the full-open position, and
install the ball valve just downstream of the gate valve.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

It sounds like you have threaded pipes, and the problem is that you cannot
unthread them. You will have to saw out a section, put new threads on the
raw ends of the pipe and reassemble using a union. A pretty big job.
"Lawrence Wasserman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Leroy Mowry wrote:
I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

Thanks













Just leave the gate valve where it is in the full-open position, and
install the ball valve just downstream of the gate valve.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

jhill wrote:
It sounds like you have threaded pipes, and the problem is that you cannot
unthread them. You will have to saw out a section, put new threads on the
raw ends of the pipe and reassemble using a union. A pretty big job.
"Lawrence Wasserman" wrote in message
...

In article ,
Leroy Mowry wrote:

I am trying to replace a stuck gate valve that does not close,
probably due to hard water. From the gate valve are pipes
that runs three feet in both direction from the well pumping
tank and into the concrete floor. Someone had connected the
gate valve onto the pipe before setting the concrete. In order
to remove the valve I would have to twist a pipe. Their seems
to be no way to twist the pipes. What's a practical way to
remove the gate valve and install a ball valve in in cases
like this?

Thanks













Just leave the gate valve where it is in the full-open position, and
install the ball valve just downstream of the gate valve.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland






The gate valve maybe able to be "rehabed" Take it apart (remove the top
section, handle and bonnet packing nut) replace the packing, clean the
stem and gate with some emory paper and clean the scale out of the gate
ways. Lube and re-assemble. Good as new! (and a whole lot easier)