I used to have an Aprilaire bypass unit at our previous house. I liked
it very much, but they are only available through contractors. Our last
one cost about $450 installed.

I just purchased a Honeywell HE260 from Home Depot for $199 (there is a
$30 rebate offer in effect until Nov.). It's quite similar to the
Aprilaire in styling etc. I've got it bolted to the furnace (Lennox G2
- I believe) and the water supply connected.

Problem: The HE260 comes with a big honking 30VA transformer and a
kludgey "sail switch" (relay with a big "sail" that floats in the cold
air return and closes when air is flowing...Honeywell's way of sensing
blower activity). I want to avoid installing the transformer (24V) and
sail switch and, instead, just power the 24V solenoid water valve from
the furnace itself.

I doubt the solenoid draws more than about 500 mA. Is there any reason
I should NOT try to power it from the Y/T terminals (compressor
contactor) at the furnace's low-voltage terminal strip, which provides
24VAC when the blower is on?

-Pat

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math


"Pat Coghlan" wrote in message
...
I used to have an Aprilaire bypass unit at our previous house. I liked it
very much, but they are only available through contractors. Our last one
cost about $450 installed.

Note: Check the web, They are available from other sources, as the one
on my furnace proves.


I just purchased a Honeywell HE260 from Home Depot for $199 (there is a
$30 rebate offer in effect until Nov.). It's quite similar to the
Aprilaire in styling etc. I've got it bolted to the furnace (Lennox G2 -
I believe) and the water supply connected.

Problem: The HE260 comes with a big honking 30VA transformer and a
kludgey "sail switch" (relay with a big "sail" that floats in the cold air
return and closes when air is flowing...Honeywell's way of sensing blower
activity). I want to avoid installing the transformer (24V) and sail
switch and, instead, just power the 24V solenoid water valve from the
furnace itself.

I doubt the solenoid draws more than about 500 mA. Is there any reason I
should NOT try to power it from the Y/T terminals (compressor contactor)
at the furnace's low-voltage terminal strip, which provides 24VAC when the
blower is on?

-Pat

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message ...
--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math


"Pat Coghlan" wrote in message
...
I used to have an Aprilaire bypass unit at our previous house. I liked it
very much, but they are only available through contractors. Our last one
cost about $450 installed.

Note: Check the web, They are available from other sources, as the one
on my furnace proves.


Same here in NJ. I bought my Aprilaire at a shop that sells/installs
fireplaces, wood stoves, etc. I just walked in and bought one, took
it home in a box.




I just purchased a Honeywell HE260 from Home Depot for $199 (there is a
$30 rebate offer in effect until Nov.). It's quite similar to the
Aprilaire in styling etc. I've got it bolted to the furnace (Lennox G2 -
I believe) and the water supply connected.

Problem: The HE260 comes with a big honking 30VA transformer and a
kludgey "sail switch" (relay with a big "sail" that floats in the cold air
return and closes when air is flowing...Honeywell's way of sensing blower
activity). I want to avoid installing the transformer (24V) and sail
switch and, instead, just power the 24V solenoid water valve from the
furnace itself.

I doubt the solenoid draws more than about 500 mA. Is there any reason I
should NOT try to power it from the Y/T terminals (compressor contactor)
at the furnace's low-voltage terminal strip, which provides 24VAC when the
blower is on?

-Pat

Pat Coghlan wrote:

I used to have an Aprilaire bypass unit at our previous house. I liked
it very much, but they are only available through contractors. Our last
one cost about $450 installed.

I just purchased a Honeywell HE260 from Home Depot for $199 (there is a
$30 rebate offer in effect until Nov.). It's quite similar to the
Aprilaire in styling etc. I've got it bolted to the furnace (Lennox G2
- I believe) and the water supply connected.

Problem: The HE260 comes with a big honking 30VA transformer and a
kludgey "sail switch" (relay with a big "sail" that floats in the cold
air return and closes when air is flowing...Honeywell's way of sensing
blower activity). I want to avoid installing the transformer (24V) and
sail switch and, instead, just power the 24V solenoid water valve from
the furnace itself.

I doubt the solenoid draws more than about 500 mA. Is there any reason
I should NOT try to power it from the Y/T terminals (compressor
contactor) at the furnace's low-voltage terminal strip, which provides
24VAC when the blower is on?

-Pat

Well, the technically correct way to get the answer is to see if the
present xformer in the furnace has a current (or VA) rating marked on
it, then measure the current that transformer puts out when it is
driving all loads which can possibly be placed on it simultaneously. If
that shows that the transformer has power to spare, then you could then
add on the humidifier's solenoid valve and see whether the current
drawis still below the xformer's rating.

But how about this? If the blower motor runs from 120 volts you could
just wire the primary of that "big honking" transformer across it and
power the solenoid from that transformer. The contacts which control the
blower motor must surely be robust enough to take a little additional load.

HTH,

Jeff

--
My name is Jeff Wisnia and I approved this message....

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"

Well, running an outlet to the transformer is one thing, but there is
also the sail switch which requires another hole to be cut in the cold
air return.

I e-mailed Honeywell, but there reply was "oh, then you're touching the
furnace, we can't help you there". I wonder if they take the same
attitude towards defence contractors: "oh, then you're interfacing to
the jet engine, we can't help you there".

The wires to the solenoid are hanging right by the low voltage strip, so
I'm really tempted to just wire it to the Y/T.

Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Pat Coghlan wrote:

I used to have an Aprilaire bypass unit at our previous house. I
liked it very much, but they are only available through contractors.
Our last one cost about $450 installed.

I just purchased a Honeywell HE260 from Home Depot for $199 (there is
a $30 rebate offer in effect until Nov.). It's quite similar to the
Aprilaire in styling etc. I've got it bolted to the furnace (Lennox
G2 - I believe) and the water supply connected.

Problem: The HE260 comes with a big honking 30VA transformer and a
kludgey "sail switch" (relay with a big "sail" that floats in the cold
air return and closes when air is flowing...Honeywell's way of sensing
blower activity). I want to avoid installing the transformer (24V)
and sail switch and, instead, just power the 24V solenoid water valve
from the furnace itself.

I doubt the solenoid draws more than about 500 mA. Is there any
reason I should NOT try to power it from the Y/T terminals (compressor
contactor) at the furnace's low-voltage terminal strip, which provides
24VAC when the blower is on?

-Pat


Well, the technically correct way to get the answer is to see if the
present xformer in the furnace has a current (or VA) rating marked on
it, then measure the current that transformer puts out when it is
driving all loads which can possibly be placed on it simultaneously. If
that shows that the transformer has power to spare, then you could then
add on the humidifier's solenoid valve and see whether the current
drawis still below the xformer's rating.

But how about this? If the blower motor runs from 120 volts you could
just wire the primary of that "big honking" transformer across it and
power the solenoid from that transformer. The contacts which control the
blower motor must surely be robust enough to take a little additional load.

HTH,

Jeff

"Pat Coghlan" wrote in message
...
I used to have an Aprilaire bypass unit at our previous house. I liked it
very much, but they are only available through contractors. Our last one
cost about $450 installed.

I just purchased a Honeywell HE260 from Home Depot for $199 (there is a
$30 rebate offer in effect until Nov.). It's quite similar to the
Aprilaire in styling etc. I've got it bolted to the furnace (Lennox G2 -
I believe) and the water supply connected.

Problem: The HE260 comes with a big honking 30VA transformer and a
kludgey "sail switch" (relay with a big "sail" that floats in the cold air
return and closes when air is flowing...Honeywell's way of sensing blower
activity). I want to avoid installing the transformer (24V) and sail
switch and, instead, just power the 24V solenoid water valve from the
furnace itself.

I doubt the solenoid draws more than about 500 mA. Is there any reason I
should NOT try to power it from the Y/T terminals (compressor contactor)
at the furnace's low-voltage terminal strip, which provides 24VAC when the
blower is on?

-Pat

Get a model 50 and be done with it.

I assume you want the humidifier to run only when the furnace is "in heat".
If you wire it to the blower motor it may run whether the furnace is heating
or cooling. A typical blower motor is multi-speed, with different motor
wires used to determine speed. Usually a slower speed for heating mode and
a higher speed for cooling, and you would connect it only to the blower
motor lead used for heating. However, you may find that the humidifier runs
regardless of which blower speed is selected due to a "back circuit" through
the motor.

One common way to get around this issue is to use a "current sensing relay
(avail. at HVAC distributors). It clamps around the low speed blower motor
wire and closes a switch contact only when the blower is in slow (or heat)
mode. These contacts can be used to activate the humidifier.

"Pat Coghlan" wrote in message
...
I used to have an Aprilaire bypass unit at our previous house. I liked
it very much, but they are only available through contractors. Our last
one cost about $450 installed.

I just purchased a Honeywell HE260 from Home Depot for $199 (there is a
$30 rebate offer in effect until Nov.). It's quite similar to the
Aprilaire in styling etc. I've got it bolted to the furnace (Lennox G2
- I believe) and the water supply connected.

Problem: The HE260 comes with a big honking 30VA transformer and a
kludgey "sail switch" (relay with a big "sail" that floats in the cold
air return and closes when air is flowing...Honeywell's way of sensing
blower activity). I want to avoid installing the transformer (24V) and
sail switch and, instead, just power the 24V solenoid water valve from
the furnace itself.

I doubt the solenoid draws more than about 500 mA. Is there any reason
I should NOT try to power it from the Y/T terminals (compressor
contactor) at the furnace's low-voltage terminal strip, which provides
24VAC when the blower is on?

-Pat

Hi Joe, hope you are having a nice day

On 29-Oct-04 At About 01:18:55, Joe Fabeitz wrote to All
Subject: Furnace humidifier - How to power?

JF From: "Joe Fabeitz"

JF I assume you want the humidifier to run only when the furnace is "in
JF heat". If you wire it to the blower motor it may run whether the
JF furnace is heating or cooling. A typical blower motor is
JF multi-speed, with different motor wires used to determine speed.
JF Usually a slower speed for heating mode and a higher speed for
JF cooling, and you would connect it only to the blower motor lead used
JF for heating. However, you may find that the humidifier runs
JF regardless of which blower speed is selected due to a "back circuit"
JF through the motor.

You should never wire to a fan speed wire on a multi speed fan as you will
burn out the transformer.


-= HvacTech2 =-


... URA Redneck if your taxidermist is on 'speed-dial'.

___ TagDude 0.92á+[DM]
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++
spam protection measure, Please remove the 33 to send e-mail

The humidistat can can turned down in summer to ensure that the unit
doesn't come on during the cooling season.

I believe our furnace has only one speed.

The Y/T terminals are energized when the blower is running. You've
suggested a different type of relay, to avoid installing the clunky
"sail switch", but I'm still determined to power the unit from the
low-voltage strip on the furnace.

I will see if I can find a spec for the transformer on the furnace, to
see if it can handle 30VA (that's 30 watts, if I remember my high school
physics). I guess I should just ask Lennox if the transformer can
handle 30 watts.

Joe Fabeitz wrote:
I assume you want the humidifier to run only when the furnace is "in heat".
If you wire it to the blower motor it may run whether the furnace is heating
or cooling. A typical blower motor is multi-speed, with different motor
wires used to determine speed. Usually a slower speed for heating mode and
a higher speed for cooling, and you would connect it only to the blower
motor lead used for heating. However, you may find that the humidifier runs
regardless of which blower speed is selected due to a "back circuit" through
the motor.

One common way to get around this issue is to use a "current sensing relay
(avail. at HVAC distributors). It clamps around the low speed blower motor
wire and closes a switch contact only when the blower is in slow (or heat)
mode. These contacts can be used to activate the humidifier.

"Pat Coghlan" wrote in message
...

I used to have an Aprilaire bypass unit at our previous house. I liked
it very much, but they are only available through contractors. Our last
one cost about $450 installed.

I just purchased a Honeywell HE260 from Home Depot for $199 (there is a
$30 rebate offer in effect until Nov.). It's quite similar to the
Aprilaire in styling etc. I've got it bolted to the furnace (Lennox G2
- I believe) and the water supply connected.

Problem: The HE260 comes with a big honking 30VA transformer and a
kludgey "sail switch" (relay with a big "sail" that floats in the cold
air return and closes when air is flowing...Honeywell's way of sensing
blower activity). I want to avoid installing the transformer (24V) and
sail switch and, instead, just power the 24V solenoid water valve from
the furnace itself.

I doubt the solenoid draws more than about 500 mA. Is there any reason
I should NOT try to power it from the Y/T terminals (compressor
contactor) at the furnace's low-voltage terminal strip, which provides
24VAC when the blower is on?

-Pat

"Pat Coghlan" wrote in message
...
The humidistat can can turned down in summer to ensure that the unit
doesn't come on during the cooling season.

I believe our furnace has only one speed.

The Y/T terminals are energized when the blower is running. You've
suggested a different type of relay, to avoid installing the clunky "sail
switch", but I'm still determined to power the unit from the low-voltage
strip on the furnace.



I guess if you already know everything, you don't need to ask for help.

I just purchased a Honeywell HE260 from Home Depot for $199 (there is a
$30 rebate offer in effect until Nov.).

Big deal, it is available at hvac supply stores at @ $100. They don't ask
for ID, if you know what I mean!