I had to replace the steam valve in my Saeco espresso machine. This is very
strange. The new one is the right one, identical to the old one. But both
just have a straight nipple about 3/16 that screws on to a brass 90 deg fitting
that in turn screws into the boiler. But the nipple does not have tapered
pipe threads, just straight threads. Further, it has a lock nut on it
because it has to be screwed
in just enough so that the valve shaft lines up with a hole in the cabinet.
So it goes inabout 3/8" or so, whereupon the shaft is where it needs
to be and then you tighten up the lock nut.
So this screwy fitting isn't made to bottom out, there is no place for a
seal inside and it doesn't have tapered threads to seal.
The parts diagram doesn't show anything used there either.
And it doesn't screw in particularly tight either. So much for great
Italian engineering.

So, what to seal this with so that it won't leak under 225F and 175 PSI?
I tried teflon tape, it doesn't work, nor does pipe dope. Couldn't tell if
something was on there from before, but looks like there was and there
must have been. So what to use to seal it? Something non-toxic
would be a good idea too.

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 2:29:50 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
I had to replace the steam valve in my Saeco espresso machine. This is very
strange. The new one is the right one, identical to the old one. But both
just have a straight nipple about 3/16 that screws on to a brass 90 deg fitting
that in turn screws into the boiler. But the nipple does not have tapered
pipe threads, just straight threads. Further, it has a lock nut on it
because it has to be screwed
in just enough so that the valve shaft lines up with a hole in the cabinet.
So it goes inabout 3/8" or so, whereupon the shaft is where it needs
to be and then you tighten up the lock nut.
So this screwy fitting isn't made to bottom out, there is no place for a
seal inside and it doesn't have tapered threads to seal.
The parts diagram doesn't show anything used there either.
And it doesn't screw in particularly tight either. So much for great
Italian engineering.

So, what to seal this with so that it won't leak under 225F and 175 PSI?
I tried teflon tape, it doesn't work, nor does pipe dope. Couldn't tell if
something was on there from before, but looks like there was and there
must have been. So what to use to seal it? Something non-toxic
would be a good idea too.
Would something here work? It sounds like a bolt going into an engine block.
https://www.permatex.com

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 5:03:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 2:29:50 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
I had to replace the steam valve in my Saeco espresso machine. This is very
strange. The new one is the right one, identical to the old one. But both
just have a straight nipple about 3/16 that screws on to a brass 90 deg fitting
that in turn screws into the boiler. But the nipple does not have tapered
pipe threads, just straight threads. Further, it has a lock nut on it
because it has to be screwed
in just enough so that the valve shaft lines up with a hole in the cabinet.
So it goes inabout 3/8" or so, whereupon the shaft is where it needs
to be and then you tighten up the lock nut.
So this screwy fitting isn't made to bottom out, there is no place for a
seal inside and it doesn't have tapered threads to seal.
The parts diagram doesn't show anything used there either.
And it doesn't screw in particularly tight either. So much for great
Italian engineering.

So, what to seal this with so that it won't leak under 225F and 175 PSI?
I tried teflon tape, it doesn't work, nor does pipe dope. Couldn't tell if
something was on there from before, but looks like there was and there
must have been. So what to use to seal it? Something non-toxic
would be a good idea too.
Would something here work? It sounds like a bolt going into an engine block.

It is kind of like a fine thread bolt, except it's a nipple with water/steam going
through it and there is no head, just a lock nut.


https://www.permatex.com

I have some permatex non-hardening in the garage and was even thinking of
using it, but it's not food safe. I don't see that they have anything food safe
either. I don't think it's really that big a deal, any contact between whatever
is there and the water would be very minimal. But food safe would be better.
I think I have it solved, thanks to good old Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RTV-6500-RE...cAAOSwOWpcuH2W


That listing doesn't say it's food safe, but you can see it on the label and other
sellers have it listed as food safe. Food safe and high temp, hope it works.
They must have used something other than silicone when it was made 25 years
ago because you usually have remnants of silicone left and you know it was
there. Seems like there was something on there, but more solid, like threadlocker
kind of stuff maybe. For $6, this is worth a try. Next problem, I broke a part in
the portafilter, have to get that from Bulgaria, $20. Sigh.....

On Sun, 21 Mar 2021 14:32:45 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 5:03:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 2:29:50 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
I had to replace the steam valve in my Saeco espresso machine. This is very
strange. The new one is the right one, identical to the old one. But both
just have a straight nipple about 3/16 that screws on to a brass 90 deg fitting
that in turn screws into the boiler. But the nipple does not have tapered
pipe threads, just straight threads. Further, it has a lock nut on it
because it has to be screwed
in just enough so that the valve shaft lines up with a hole in the cabinet.
So it goes inabout 3/8" or so, whereupon the shaft is where it needs
to be and then you tighten up the lock nut.
So this screwy fitting isn't made to bottom out, there is no place for a
seal inside and it doesn't have tapered threads to seal.
The parts diagram doesn't show anything used there either.
And it doesn't screw in particularly tight either. So much for great
Italian engineering.

So, what to seal this with so that it won't leak under 225F and 175 PSI?
I tried teflon tape, it doesn't work, nor does pipe dope. Couldn't tell if
something was on there from before, but looks like there was and there
must have been. So what to use to seal it? Something non-toxic
would be a good idea too.
Would something here work? It sounds like a bolt going into an engine block.

It is kind of like a fine thread bolt, except it's a nipple with water/steam going
through it and there is no head, just a lock nut.


https://www.permatex.com

I have some permatex non-hardening in the garage and was even thinking of
using it, but it's not food safe. I don't see that they have anything food safe
either. I don't think it's really that big a deal, any contact between whatever
is there and the water would be very minimal. But food safe would be better.
I think I have it solved, thanks to good old Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RTV-6500-RE...cAAOSwOWpcuH2W


That listing doesn't say it's food safe, but you can see it on the label and other
sellers have it listed as food safe. Food safe and high temp, hope it works.
They must have used something other than silicone when it was made 25 years
ago because you usually have remnants of silicone left and you know it was
there. Seems like there was something on there, but more solid, like threadlocker
kind of stuff maybe. For $6, this is worth a try. Next problem, I broke a part in
the portafilter, have to get that from Bulgaria, $20. Sigh.....

Why not treat it like any other straight thread fitting and put a
gasket under the lock nut. That is what Yamaha does on their
outboards. An O ring that is tight on the threads should work.

On 3/21/2021 3:29 PM, trader_4 wrote:
I had to replace the steam valve in my Saeco espresso machine. This is very
strange. The new one is the right one, identical to the old one. But both
just have a straight nipple about 3/16 that screws on to a brass 90 deg fitting
that in turn screws into the boiler. But the nipple does not have tapered
pipe threads, just straight threads. Further, it has a lock nut on it
because it has to be screwed
in just enough so that the valve shaft lines up with a hole in the cabinet.
So it goes inabout 3/8" or so, whereupon the shaft is where it needs
to be and then you tighten up the lock nut.
So this screwy fitting isn't made to bottom out, there is no place for a
seal inside and it doesn't have tapered threads to seal.
The parts diagram doesn't show anything used there either.
And it doesn't screw in particularly tight either. So much for great
Italian engineering.

So, what to seal this with so that it won't leak under 225F and 175 PSI?
I tried teflon tape, it doesn't work, nor does pipe dope. Couldn't tell if
something was on there from before, but looks like there was and there
must have been. So what to use to seal it? Something non-toxic
would be a good idea too.


Suggest you contact Saeco customer service for their assistance. If you
can't find contact information for them, I'd contact the retailer where
you purchased the machine. If that doesn't help, look for a factory
authorized repair facility for Saeco espresso machines (even if your
machine is out of warranty they may still be able to help).

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:12:43 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 21 Mar 2021 14:32:45 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 5:03:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 2:29:50 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
I had to replace the steam valve in my Saeco espresso machine. This is very
strange. The new one is the right one, identical to the old one. But both
just have a straight nipple about 3/16 that screws on to a brass 90 deg fitting
that in turn screws into the boiler. But the nipple does not have tapered
pipe threads, just straight threads. Further, it has a lock nut on it
because it has to be screwed
in just enough so that the valve shaft lines up with a hole in the cabinet.
So it goes inabout 3/8" or so, whereupon the shaft is where it needs
to be and then you tighten up the lock nut.
So this screwy fitting isn't made to bottom out, there is no place for a
seal inside and it doesn't have tapered threads to seal.
The parts diagram doesn't show anything used there either.
And it doesn't screw in particularly tight either. So much for great
Italian engineering.

So, what to seal this with so that it won't leak under 225F and 175 PSI?
I tried teflon tape, it doesn't work, nor does pipe dope. Couldn't tell if
something was on there from before, but looks like there was and there
must have been. So what to use to seal it? Something non-toxic
would be a good idea too.
Would something here work? It sounds like a bolt going into an engine block.

It is kind of like a fine thread bolt, except it's a nipple with water/steam going
through it and there is no head, just a lock nut.


https://www.permatex.com

I have some permatex non-hardening in the garage and was even thinking of
using it, but it's not food safe. I don't see that they have anything food safe
either. I don't think it's really that big a deal, any contact between whatever
is there and the water would be very minimal. But food safe would be better.
I think I have it solved, thanks to good old Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RTV-6500-RE...cAAOSwOWpcuH2W


That listing doesn't say it's food safe, but you can see it on the label and other
sellers have it listed as food safe. Food safe and high temp, hope it works.
They must have used something other than silicone when it was made 25 years
ago because you usually have remnants of silicone left and you know it was
there. Seems like there was something on there, but more solid, like threadlocker
kind of stuff maybe. For $6, this is worth a try. Next problem, I broke a part in
the portafilter, have to get that from Bulgaria, $20. Sigh.....
Why not treat it like any other straight thread fitting and put a
gasket under the lock nut. That is what Yamaha does on their
outboards. An O ring that is tight on the threads should work.

I don't see how a gasket or o-ring under a lock nut keeps water from
following the threads, right on through the nut. I've never seen a fitting
that worked that way. Gaskets work where you just have two flat surfaces
meeting. It would work with a *bolt*, because it's a bolt, not a nut and
the bolt doesn't have threads coming out the head to leak. The washer
will seal the perimeter, but do not the path through the threads.

On Monday, March 22, 2021 at 7:37:22 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:12:43 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Why not treat it like any other straight thread fitting and put a
gasket under the lock nut. That is what Yamaha does on their
outboards. An O ring that is tight on the threads should work.
I don't see how a gasket or o-ring under a lock nut keeps water from
following the threads, right on through the nut. I've never seen a fitting
that worked that way. Gaskets work where you just have two flat surfaces
meeting. It would work with a *bolt*, because it's a bolt, not a nut and yc
the bolt doesn't have threads coming out the head to leak. The washer
will seal the perimeter, but do not the path through the threads.

Hydraulic fittings on farm equipment sometimes use washers with O rings or flat rubber
washers at least on the low pressure return lines. The washers are made with the O rings/rubber washers
attached. I think the washers are convex and collapse as one tightens them so the O/washer collapses
against the fitting as things are tightened. This might be a good illustration.
https://lenzinc.com/sites/default/files/AAL_1.jpg.
Maybe your local hardware or auto parts store?

On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 05:37:18 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:12:43 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 21 Mar 2021 14:32:45 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 5:03:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 2:29:50 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
I had to replace the steam valve in my Saeco espresso machine. This is very
strange. The new one is the right one, identical to the old one. But both
just have a straight nipple about 3/16 that screws on to a brass 90 deg fitting
that in turn screws into the boiler. But the nipple does not have tapered
pipe threads, just straight threads. Further, it has a lock nut on it
because it has to be screwed
in just enough so that the valve shaft lines up with a hole in the cabinet.
So it goes inabout 3/8" or so, whereupon the shaft is where it needs
to be and then you tighten up the lock nut.
So this screwy fitting isn't made to bottom out, there is no place for a
seal inside and it doesn't have tapered threads to seal.
The parts diagram doesn't show anything used there either.
And it doesn't screw in particularly tight either. So much for great
Italian engineering.

So, what to seal this with so that it won't leak under 225F and 175 PSI?
I tried teflon tape, it doesn't work, nor does pipe dope. Couldn't tell if
something was on there from before, but looks like there was and there
must have been. So what to use to seal it? Something non-toxic
would be a good idea too.
Would something here work? It sounds like a bolt going into an engine block.

It is kind of like a fine thread bolt, except it's a nipple with water/steam going
through it and there is no head, just a lock nut.


https://www.permatex.com

I have some permatex non-hardening in the garage and was even thinking of
using it, but it's not food safe. I don't see that they have anything food safe
either. I don't think it's really that big a deal, any contact between whatever
is there and the water would be very minimal. But food safe would be better.
I think I have it solved, thanks to good old Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RTV-6500-RE...cAAOSwOWpcuH2W


That listing doesn't say it's food safe, but you can see it on the label and other
sellers have it listed as food safe. Food safe and high temp, hope it works.
They must have used something other than silicone when it was made 25 years
ago because you usually have remnants of silicone left and you know it was
there. Seems like there was something on there, but more solid, like threadlocker
kind of stuff maybe. For $6, this is worth a try. Next problem, I broke a part in
the portafilter, have to get that from Bulgaria, $20. Sigh.....
Why not treat it like any other straight thread fitting and put a
gasket under the lock nut. That is what Yamaha does on their
outboards. An O ring that is tight on the threads should work.

I don't see how a gasket or o-ring under a lock nut keeps water from
following the threads, right on through the nut. I've never seen a fitting
that worked that way. Gaskets work where you just have two flat surfaces
meeting. It would work with a *bolt*, because it's a bolt, not a nut and
the bolt doesn't have threads coming out the head to leak. The washer
will seal the perimeter, but do not the path through the threads.


If the O ring is tight on the threaded part it should stop the flow.

Has it always leaked? If not, what changed? If so, why didn't you get
it fixed or take it back when it was new?

Assuming you are not adjusting this, you could always epoxy the nut to
the threaded part and use a gasket/O ring once you find the right
spot.

On Monday, March 22, 2021 at 11:32:10 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Monday, March 22, 2021 at 7:37:22 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:12:43 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Why not treat it like any other straight thread fitting and put a
gasket under the lock nut. That is what Yamaha does on their
outboards. An O ring that is tight on the threads should work.
I don't see how a gasket or o-ring under a lock nut keeps water from
following the threads, right on through the nut. I've never seen a fitting
that worked that way. Gaskets work where you just have two flat surfaces
meeting. It would work with a *bolt*, because it's a bolt, not a nut and yc
the bolt doesn't have threads coming out the head to leak. The washer
will seal the perimeter, but do not the path through the threads.
Hydraulic fittings on farm equipment sometimes use washers with O rings or flat rubber
washers at least on the low pressure return lines. The washers are made with the O rings/rubber washers
attached. I think the washers are convex and collapse as one tightens them so the O/washer collapses
against the fitting as things are tightened. This might be a good illustration.
https://lenzinc.com/sites/default/files/AAL_1.jpg.
Maybe your local hardware or auto parts store?

That shows exactly what I'm talking about and why an o-ring won't work with
a nut instead of a bolt. In your photo the o-ring seals between the two flat
surfaces and there is no path through the *threads*.

On Monday, March 22, 2021 at 11:38:03 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 05:37:18 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 11:12:43 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 21 Mar 2021 14:32:45 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 5:03:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 2:29:50 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
I had to replace the steam valve in my Saeco espresso machine. This is very
strange. The new one is the right one, identical to the old one. But both
just have a straight nipple about 3/16 that screws on to a brass 90 deg fitting
that in turn screws into the boiler. But the nipple does not have tapered
pipe threads, just straight threads. Further, it has a lock nut on it
because it has to be screwed
in just enough so that the valve shaft lines up with a hole in the cabinet.
So it goes inabout 3/8" or so, whereupon the shaft is where it needs
to be and then you tighten up the lock nut.
So this screwy fitting isn't made to bottom out, there is no place for a
seal inside and it doesn't have tapered threads to seal.
The parts diagram doesn't show anything used there either.
And it doesn't screw in particularly tight either. So much for great
Italian engineering.

So, what to seal this with so that it won't leak under 225F and 175 PSI?
I tried teflon tape, it doesn't work, nor does pipe dope. Couldn't tell if
something was on there from before, but looks like there was and there
must have been. So what to use to seal it? Something non-toxic
would be a good idea too.
Would something here work? It sounds like a bolt going into an engine block.

It is kind of like a fine thread bolt, except it's a nipple with water/steam going
through it and there is no head, just a lock nut.


https://www.permatex.com

I have some permatex non-hardening in the garage and was even thinking of
using it, but it's not food safe. I don't see that they have anything food safe
either. I don't think it's really that big a deal, any contact between whatever
is there and the water would be very minimal. But food safe would be better.
I think I have it solved, thanks to good old Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RTV-6500-RE...cAAOSwOWpcuH2W


That listing doesn't say it's food safe, but you can see it on the label and other
sellers have it listed as food safe. Food safe and high temp, hope it works.
They must have used something other than silicone when it was made 25 years
ago because you usually have remnants of silicone left and you know it was
there. Seems like there was something on there, but more solid, like threadlocker
kind of stuff maybe. For $6, this is worth a try. Next problem, I broke a part in
the portafilter, have to get that from Bulgaria, $20. Sigh.....
Why not treat it like any other straight thread fitting and put a
gasket under the lock nut. That is what Yamaha does on their
outboards. An O ring that is tight on the threads should work.

I don't see how a gasket or o-ring under a lock nut keeps water from
following the threads, right on through the nut. I've never seen a fitting
that worked that way. Gaskets work where you just have two flat surfaces
meeting. It would work with a *bolt*, because it's a bolt, not a nut and
the bolt doesn't have threads coming out the head to leak. The washer
will seal the perimeter, but do not the path through the threads.

If the O ring is tight on the threaded part it should stop the flow.



I can't be tight, can't work, because the threads are not a flat, smooth surface,
they are a spiral with peaks and valleys. The o-ring will be on the peaks, the fluid
will follow the spiral valleys. It works on Dean's example because it's a bolt
and there is no path through the threads beyond the o-ring.





Has it always leaked? If not, what changed? If so, why didn't you get
it fixed or take it back when it was new?

Like I first posted, I had to replace the steam valve because that was leaking,
not the nipple connection.



Assuming you are not adjusting this, you could always epoxy the nut to
the threaded part and use a gasket/O ring once you find the right
spot.

Appears to me the 6500 sealant I found, that's food safe is the best option.

On Sun, 21 Mar 2021 23:12:31 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Sun, 21 Mar 2021 14:32:45 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 5:03:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 2:29:50 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
I had to replace the steam valve in my Saeco espresso machine. This is very
strange. The new one is the right one, identical to the old one. But both
just have a straight nipple about 3/16 that screws on to a brass 90 deg fitting
that in turn screws into the boiler. But the nipple does not have tapered
pipe threads, just straight threads. Further, it has a lock nut on it
because it has to be screwed
in just enough so that the valve shaft lines up with a hole in the cabinet.
So it goes inabout 3/8" or so, whereupon the shaft is where it needs
to be and then you tighten up the lock nut.
So this screwy fitting isn't made to bottom out, there is no place for a
seal inside and it doesn't have tapered threads to seal.
The parts diagram doesn't show anything used there either.
And it doesn't screw in particularly tight either. So much for great
Italian engineering.

So, what to seal this with so that it won't leak under 225F and 175 PSI?
I tried teflon tape, it doesn't work, nor does pipe dope. Couldn't tell if
something was on there from before, but looks like there was and there
must have been. So what to use to seal it? Something non-toxic
would be a good idea too.
Would something here work? It sounds like a bolt going into an engine block.

It is kind of like a fine thread bolt, except it's a nipple with water/steam going
through it and there is no head, just a lock nut.


https://www.permatex.com

I have some permatex non-hardening in the garage and was even thinking of
using it, but it's not food safe. I don't see that they have anything food safe
either. I don't think it's really that big a deal, any contact between whatever
is there and the water would be very minimal. But food safe would be better.
I think I have it solved, thanks to good old Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RTV-6500-RE...cAAOSwOWpcuH2W


That listing doesn't say it's food safe, but you can see it on the label and other
sellers have it listed as food safe. Food safe and high temp, hope it works.
They must have used something other than silicone when it was made 25 years
ago because you usually have remnants of silicone left and you know it was
there. Seems like there was something on there, but more solid, like threadlocker
kind of stuff maybe. For $6, this is worth a try. Next problem, I broke a part in
the portafilter, have to get that from Bulgaria, $20. Sigh.....

Why not treat it like any other straight thread fitting and put a
gasket under the lock nut. That is what Yamaha does on their
outboards. An O ring that is tight on the threads should work.

That is what I would suggest.

Trader: Megalock might work for the temp but not the pressure. That product you
linked to looks like high temp silicone but I don't know about the pressure.

Is there any of the espresso maker USA contact or maybe something on their
website?

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 09:41:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:





Has it always leaked? If not, what changed? If so, why didn't you get
it fixed or take it back when it was new?

Like I first posted, I had to replace the steam valve because that was leaking,
not the nipple connection.

How was the nipple sealed before?

On Monday, March 22, 2021 at 9:20:43 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 09:41:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:





Has it always leaked? If not, what changed? If so, why didn't you get
it fixed or take it back when it was new?

Like I first posted, I had to replace the steam valve because that was leaking,
not the nipple connection.
How was the nipple sealed before?

Like I said, IDK. When I went to take the nut off the old nipple, it would not come
off easy. There was a little bit of something on the threads. Not sure if it was
some mineral deposits, corrosion, or sealant. But given that something had to
be there to keep it from leaking, I'm betting it was sealant. I wired brushed it
a bit and put some PB Blaster on it and it came right off. The parts diagram
does not show any part going between the nipple nut and boiler fitting.

Whatever was there, I don't think it was RTV though, because that leaves traces
that are silicone like material, bits that are rubbery, etc. Whatever was there
must have been more like threadlocker, but I have confidence that RTV will
work. We'll see.

On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 8:32:27 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 22, 2021 at 9:20:43 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 09:41:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:





Has it always leaked? If not, what changed? If so, why didn't you get
it fixed or take it back when it was new?

Like I first posted, I had to replace the steam valve because that was leaking,
not the nipple connection.
How was the nipple sealed before?
Like I said, IDK. When I went to take the nut off the old nipple, it would not come
off easy. There was a little bit of something on the threads. Not sure if it was
some mineral deposits, corrosion, or sealant. But given that something had to
be there to keep it from leaking, I'm betting it was sealant. I wired brushed it
a bit and put some PB Blaster on it and it came right off. The parts diagram
does not show any part going between the nipple nut and boiler fitting.

Whatever was there, I don't think it was RTV though, because that leaves traces
that are silicone like material, bits that are rubbery, etc. Whatever was there
must have been more like threadlocker, but I have confidence that RTV will
work. We'll see.

Update. I got the silicone sealant and it worked, no more leak at the fitting
and with the new steam valve, no more dripping from the steam wand.
If anyone needs similar, it's Silco RTV 6500. Good to 500F and food safe.
It cost ~$6 on Ebay.

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 06:30:15 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 posted for all of us to
digest...


On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 8:32:27 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 22, 2021 at 9:20:43 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 09:41:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:





Has it always leaked? If not, what changed? If so, why didn't you get
it fixed or take it back when it was new?

Like I first posted, I had to replace the steam valve because that was leaking,
not the nipple connection.
How was the nipple sealed before?
Like I said, IDK. When I went to take the nut off the old nipple, it would not come
off easy. There was a little bit of something on the threads. Not sure if it was
some mineral deposits, corrosion, or sealant. But given that something had to
be there to keep it from leaking, I'm betting it was sealant. I wired brushed it
a bit and put some PB Blaster on it and it came right off. The parts diagram
does not show any part going between the nipple nut and boiler fitting.

Whatever was there, I don't think it was RTV though, because that leaves traces
that are silicone like material, bits that are rubbery, etc. Whatever was there
must have been more like threadlocker, but I have confidence that RTV will
work. We'll see.

Update. I got the silicone sealant and it worked, no more leak at the fitting
and with the new steam valve, no more dripping from the steam wand.
If anyone needs similar, it's Silco RTV 6500. Good to 500F and food safe.
It cost ~$6 on Ebay.

Thanks, good to hear of a resolution.

--
Tekkie

On 4/10/21 2:08 PM, Tekkie� wrote:

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 06:30:15 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 posted for all of us to
digest...


On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 8:32:27 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 22, 2021 at 9:20:43 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 09:41:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:





Has it always leaked? If not, what changed? If so, why didn't you get
it fixed or take it back when it was new?

Like I first posted, I had to replace the steam valve because that was leaking,
not the nipple connection.
How was the nipple sealed before?
Like I said, IDK. When I went to take the nut off the old nipple, it would not come
off easy. There was a little bit of something on the threads. Not sure if it was
some mineral deposits, corrosion, or sealant. But given that something had to
be there to keep it from leaking, I'm betting it was sealant. I wired brushed it
a bit and put some PB Blaster on it and it came right off. The parts diagram
does not show any part going between the nipple nut and boiler fitting.

Whatever was there, I don't think it was RTV though, because that leaves traces
that are silicone like material, bits that are rubbery, etc. Whatever was there
must have been more like threadlocker, but I have confidence that RTV will
work. We'll see.

Update. I got the silicone sealant and it worked, no more leak at the fitting
and with the new steam valve, no more dripping from the steam wand.
If anyone needs similar, it's Silco RTV 6500. Good to 500F and food safe.
It cost ~$6 on Ebay.

Thanks, good to hear of a resolution.

Yeah, that's all nice.

Me? I'd pop for a $15 Mr. Coffee at Walmart ;-)

--
Why is it that the people who want more government control over your
life are the same ones who want you to be disarmed?

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 19:16:34 -0400, Wade Garrett posted for all of us to
digest...


On 4/10/21 2:08 PM, Tekkie? wrote:

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 06:30:15 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 posted for all of us to
digest...


On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 8:32:27 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 22, 2021 at 9:20:43 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 09:41:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:





Has it always leaked? If not, what changed? If so, why didn't you get
it fixed or take it back when it was new?

Like I first posted, I had to replace the steam valve because that was leaking,
not the nipple connection.
How was the nipple sealed before?
Like I said, IDK. When I went to take the nut off the old nipple, it would not come
off easy. There was a little bit of something on the threads. Not sure if it was
some mineral deposits, corrosion, or sealant. But given that something had to
be there to keep it from leaking, I'm betting it was sealant. I wired brushed it
a bit and put some PB Blaster on it and it came right off. The parts diagram
does not show any part going between the nipple nut and boiler fitting.

Whatever was there, I don't think it was RTV though, because that leaves traces
that are silicone like material, bits that are rubbery, etc. Whatever was there
must have been more like threadlocker, but I have confidence that RTV will
work. We'll see.

Update. I got the silicone sealant and it worked, no more leak at the fitting
and with the new steam valve, no more dripping from the steam wand.
If anyone needs similar, it's Silco RTV 6500. Good to 500F and food safe.
It cost ~$6 on Ebay.

Thanks, good to hear of a resolution.

Yeah, that's all nice.

Me? I'd pop for a $15 Mr. Coffee at Walmart ;-)

Ya like what ya like so both of you can have your Covfefe the way YOU like it
;-)

--
Tekkie