Is it necessary to prime bare wallboards before spraying orange peel
texture? Why or why not?

My contractor says it's not needed, but I've read elsewhere that it's
a good idea to prime first (no reason provided though).

Please help! Thanks.

-Ernesto

wont hurt, might help.

randy

"Ernesto" wrote in message
om...
Is it necessary to prime bare wallboards before spraying orange peel
texture? Why or why not?

My contractor says it's not needed, but I've read elsewhere that it's
a good idea to prime first (no reason provided though).

Please help! Thanks.

-Ernesto

"3rd eye" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 17:49:45 -0600, "xrongor"
wrote:

wont hurt, might help.

randy

here you go again offering advise when you don't know ****.

get over yourself. i did...

randy

Yes, the wallboard needs to be primed before painting. You can choose
to to it before or after the splattering step.

If you do it before the splattering you'll have a uniform white
surface and it may help you get a more consistent splatter pattern.



(Ernesto) wrote in message . com...
Is it necessary to prime bare wallboards before spraying orange peel
texture? Why or why not?

My contractor says it's not needed, but I've read elsewhere that it's
a good idea to prime first (no reason provided though).

Please help! Thanks.

-Ernesto

In article ,
keyed out...
Is it necessary to prime bare wallboards before spraying orange peel
texture? Why or why not?

My contractor says it's not needed, but I've read elsewhere that it's
a good idea to prime first (no reason provided though).

Of course you should prime before putting up texture. The primer is
there to create a foundation for the finish coats and its job is to
penetrate into the dust, the paper and the joint compound and make a
nice uniformly sealed surface for the finish. Texture materials, due to
their high pigment loadings, don't have resin to spare. So, if the
resin in the texture is sucked out of the texture coating into a dry,
porous unprimed surface you will wind up with weak texture and possibly
a weak interface that will be easy to damage.
The idea of a primer is to keep the resin in the texture material so it
can do its job as it was formulated.

Make sure that they use a texture material and not just joint compound
spattered on the walls. Standard JC has absolutely no strength and is
basically just dust.

Ernesto wrote:

Is it necessary to prime bare wallboards before spraying orange peel
texture? Why or why not?

My contractor says it's not needed, but I've read elsewhere that it's
a good idea to prime first (no reason provided though).

Please help! Thanks.

-Ernesto
from what i have read in sheet rock books and have seen as a kid in the
50-60's when you would just use a roller on the sheet rock that they, my
uncle and his kids never did anything to the sheetrock othere than put
the mud on with a roller... it seemed to work OK... and if the
contractor tells you this then he ought to know....

In article ,
keyed out...
On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 20:51:03 GMT, eddie torr
wrote:

snipped

Make sure that they use a texture material and not just joint compound
spattered on the walls. Standard JC has absolutely no strength and is
basically just dust.

Take a piece of half inch wallboard & break it over your knee.
Then try the same with a piece that has been taped & mudded.
You'll find this to be way wrong.


Take a penny and lightly scrape drying type joint compound (not setting
type) and scrape along bare joint compound - big gouge & lots of dust

Take a penny and lightly scrape setting type joint compound (not drying
type) and scrape along bare joint compound - less gouge & less dust

Take a penny and lightly scrape it over properly primed joint compound -
less gouge & hopefully no dust.

Take a penny and lightly scrape it over a texturing material such as
Coronado's Tough Tex - NO SCRATCH

Joint compound alone doesn't add strength to a surface and spritzed
joint compound just adds a layer of absorbent dust that will suck the
resins out of paints and will fail any tape test you try - every time. I
will go so far to say that there are likely dozens of different joint
compounds available and a homeowner must rely upon the contractor to use
a good and proper material.
BTW, the tape adds laminar strength to your experiment. However, we are
talking about the cohesive qualities of joint compound and the ability
of a coating to adhere to a particular building material surface not
structural compounding.

I've been around commercial construction for over 40 years. I
have never heard of priming drywall before texture and I have
used, seen used, and been told to use regular drying joint
compound as texture my entire life. There are reasons to use
thermal setting compound, making an ultra hard texture on a
regular interior wall would not be one of mine.


Caveats:
It may or may not be cheaper to seal prime after texture with PVA
primer. It is going to take xxx amount of material to seal raw
drywall and compound. The wall does not care whether it is paint
or primer. It is going to take xxx amount of material to get a
uniform sheen on the varying substrates. This can be done by
multiple coats or by knowing how to paint.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Ernesto" wrote in message
om...
Is it necessary to prime bare wallboards before spraying orange
peel
texture? Why or why not?

My contractor says it's not needed, but I've read elsewhere that
it's
a good idea to prime first (no reason provided though).

Please help! Thanks.

-Ernesto

(Ernesto) wrote in
om:




Priming before the texture is useless. The mud used to texture will stick
to joint compund/ top coat/ finnishing compound as good as it will stick to
the flat primer add to this the fact that you will need to prime after the
texture is applied and you'll see there is NO need to prime before the
texture.

--
If it stands still I can paint it.
If it's moving I'll just have
to charge you more!

In article ,
keyed out...
On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 15:07:25 GMT, eddie torr
wrote:

In article ,
keyed out...
On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 20:51:03 GMT, eddie torr
wrote:

snipped


I wish you guys lived and worked around here. We regularly have problems
with paint peeling from jc. From new construction to refits I get
presented with faily large peels and inspection of the rear shows
sparkly joint compound dust. I once saw a room that was "rough
plastered" with joint compound and it was so weak and friable that paint
would peel right off almost as it was drying.

All I'm know is that there is some out there that, imho, is just crap.
And a homeowner isn't going to now the difference although a good
contractor might and know how to put the stuff on correctly. I never get
to see those customers. I get to see a woman in a 11 month old house who
is trying to touch up and the builder's paint is rolling up around her
roller because it is sitting on a layer of dust. Where did this sparkly
white dust come from? Why is it so dusty? How come is the old paint so
loose that it comes off in sheets? It isn't the the paint they just
bought that is causing their trouble - it's just the means for
discovery.

It is good that there are professionals in this group who are willing
respond and share both the good and bad. It isn't the good parts one has
to be wary of and I figured people pose questions not to create
confrontation but to pull knowledge from other's experiences. I don't
think all they are looking for reassurances and platitudes. Sometimes a
scary story may help them make the jump from the cheap handyman to the
professional contractor. And that what we all want - a good job.

In article , =20
keyed out...
Is it necessary to prime bare wallboards before spraying orange peel
texture? Why or why not?
=20
My contractor says it's not needed, but I've read elsewhere that it's
a good idea to prime first (no reason provided though).
=20
Please help! Thanks.
=20
-Ernesto
=20
Look at the label of the stuff your contractor is using. Have him read=20
the instructions to you. Have him follow the label instructions.

For more information, USG is one of the biggest makers of these=20
materials and they have a fantastic website full of information=20
pertinent to drywall and finishing. Here is the relevant portion of=20
their handbook - http://www.usg.com/IC/Handbook/hb_10.asp

If you can't get there, this is off the page:

19. Preparation=20
For best results, apply a prime coat of SHEETROCK=AE Brand First Coat=
=20
after joint compound has set. Allow prime coat to dry before applying=20
texture. =20

To all who have replied: THANKS!

A question to those who favor *not* to prime before texturing: What is
a good material for texture? Is regular joint-compound adequate?
(That's what my contractor will use, unless I ask him to use something
else.)

Thanks again.

-Ernesto

A question to those who favor *not* to prime before texturing: What is
a good material for texture? Is regular joint-compound adequate?
(That's what my contractor will use, unless I ask him to use something
else.)

Thanks again.

-Ernesto

I'm not a pro painter but have done it quit a bit. Thinned joint compound
works sprayed or rolled, but I have found at least for heaver textures that
the texture products are harder. The one I have used comes in two gallon
pails from SW. I diluted it slightly with a couple cups of water and rolled
it own. The texture products usually contain a primer. I have been told
you can get the same results by mixing joint compound with latex primer but
have never tried it.

Robert R