Got a 40 year old Delta 3-handle setup in a fiberglass tub/shower. For
the last 20+ years, the diverter valve has been left permanently in the
"up/shower" position and has frozen/corroded that way. Can't turn it at
all to run the water through the tub spigot.

Further problem is the slot head of the screw that holds the plastic
handle on the diverter valve body started to strip when I tried to
remove it .

Not sure how to proceed. Put a big pipe wrench on the diverter handle
and try to force it? Grind the screw head off? Call a plumber :-(

There's no shut-off valve to the tub. And access to the pipes behind the
shower is extremely difficult- up through the attic and then drop down
behind the wall into a very narrow space that is filled eight feet deep
with blown-in insulation!

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 11:33:46 -0400, Wade Garrett
wrote:

Got a 40 year old Delta 3-handle setup in a fiberglass tub/shower. For
the last 20+ years, the diverter valve has been left permanently in the
"up/shower" position and has frozen/corroded that way. Can't turn it at
all to run the water through the tub spigot.

Further problem is the slot head of the screw that holds the plastic
handle on the diverter valve body started to strip when I tried to
remove it .

Not sure how to proceed. Put a big pipe wrench on the diverter handle
and try to force it? Grind the screw head off? Call a plumber :-(

There's no shut-off valve to the tub. And access to the pipes behind the
shower is extremely difficult- up through the attic and then drop down
behind the wall into a very narrow space that is filled eight feet deep
with blown-in insulation!

Might try soaking with liquid wrench over several days and tap with a
rawhide or nylon mallet -- see if it breaks loose. Soak the screw also
and try again. YMMV

On 6/17/2019 10:48 AM, Oren wrote:
....

Might try soaking with liquid wrench over several days and tap with a
rawhide or nylon mallet -- see if it breaks loose. Soak the screw also
and try again. YMMV

Vinegar probably do more good against the hard water deposits...or,
never tried it for this, but the cola soda soak might be good...there is
the commercial CLR for Calcium-Lime-Rust but I've had little luck with
it. Lime Away has some hyrdrochloric acid.

--

On 6/17/2019 11:33 AM, Wade Garrett wrote:
Got a 40 year old Delta 3-handle setup in a fiberglass tub/shower. For
the last 20+ years, the diverter valve has been left permanently in the
"up/shower" position and has frozen/corroded that way. Can't turn it at
all to run the water through the tub spigot.

Further problem is the slot head of the screw that holds the plastic
handle on the diverter valve body started to strip when I tried to
remove it .

Not sure how to proceed. Put a big pipe wrench on the diverter handle
and try to force it? Grind the screw head off? Call a plumber :-(

There's no shut-off valve to the tub. And access to the pipes behind the
shower is extremely difficult- up through the attic and then drop down
behind the wall into a very narrow space that is filled eight feet deep
with blown-in insulation!

Can you put a shut-off someplace? At 40 years I'd consider just
replacing it. Actually, after 40 years I'd think about just remodeling
the bathroom and getting rid of the fiberglass. I did that a few years
back.

You can try soaking it with penetrating oil or CLR and see if that help.
It will only soak so far and if it is internal blocked with minerals
will not do much.

On Monday, June 17, 2019 at 11:33:52 AM UTC-4, Wade Garrett wrote:
Got a 40 year old Delta 3-handle setup in a fiberglass tub/shower. For
the last 20+ years, the diverter valve has been left permanently in the
"up/shower" position and has frozen/corroded that way. Can't turn it at
all to run the water through the tub spigot.

Further problem is the slot head of the screw that holds the plastic
handle on the diverter valve body started to strip when I tried to
remove it .

Not sure how to proceed. Put a big pipe wrench on the diverter handle
and try to force it? Grind the screw head off? Call a plumber :-(

There's no shut-off valve to the tub. And access to the pipes behind the
shower is extremely difficult- up through the attic and then drop down
behind the wall into a very narrow space that is filled eight feet deep
with blown-in insulation!

First question is, do you really need to move the handle? How about
installing a shower head fixture that includes a removable spray wand?
That could be laid down and would fill the tub, though slowly.

If the backside is accessible from the attic after removing the insulation,
all things considered, at least it is an option. Problem I see is that
whatever you can spray on isn't likely to penetrate to where it's needed
and it's likely frozen from calcium and the like. Maybe put some vinegar
in via the shower head pipe, let it soak for a day or two? That might
dissolve the minerals. Then put a pipe or pipe wrench on the handle
and torque away. How lucky do you feel today?

Oh, and like Ed said, if there is a spot where shutoff to the bathroom
can be added without too much trouble, might want to do that first.
What kind of piping is this? Copper I hope?

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 17 Jun 2019 08:48:43 -0700, Oren
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 11:33:46 -0400, Wade Garrett
wrote:

Got a 40 year old Delta 3-handle setup in a fiberglass tub/shower. For
the last 20+ years, the diverter valve has been left permanently in the
"up/shower" position and has frozen/corroded that way. Can't turn it at
all to run the water through the tub spigot.

Further problem is the slot head of the screw that holds the plastic
handle on the diverter valve body started to strip when I tried to
remove it .

Not sure how to proceed. Put a big pipe wrench on the diverter handle
and try to force it? Grind the screw head off? Call a plumber :-(

There's no shut-off valve to the tub. And access to the pipes behind the
shower is extremely difficult- up through the attic and then drop down
behind the wall into a very narrow space that is filled eight feet deep
with blown-in insulation!

Might try soaking with liquid wrench over several days and tap with a

Tapping is very important. Every day at least. While you're soaking it
in whatever, I think you can tap pretty hard, with something harder and
heavier than rawhide, so hard the parts vibrate, which makes the liquid
wrench etc seep farther in. Just not so hard you'll actually break
parts.


rawhide or nylon mallet -- see if it breaks loose. Soak the screw also
and try again. YMMV