When replacing my fascia boards, I primed them with a non-shellac-based
primer. Now, the knot holes show just a couple of days after applying
two finish coats. Can I get away with spot priming the knots with
shellac right over the existing finish coats, then applying new finish
coats? Or must I first sand the knotted areas down to bare wood?

Thanks,

Ray

In article , Ray K wrote:
When replacing my fascia boards, I primed them with a non-shellac-based
primer. Now, the knot holes show just a couple of days after applying
two finish coats. Can I get away with spot priming the knots with
shellac right over the existing finish coats, then applying new finish
coats? Or must I first sand the knotted areas down to bare wood?

I'd sure try spot priming first, to see if it works, before going to the
effort of sanding down to bare wood.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , Ray K wrote:

When replacing my fascia boards, I primed them with a non-shellac-based
primer. Now, the knot holes show just a couple of days after applying
two finish coats. Can I get away with spot priming the knots with
shellac right over the existing finish coats, then applying new finish
coats? Or must I first sand the knotted areas down to bare wood?


I'd sure try spot priming first, to see if it works, before going to the
effort of sanding down to bare wood.

The problem is than new gutters are going up in two days, and I want
everything to be okay for sure by then. Yes, the gutters will cover the
knot stains, anyway, but still I prefer to treat them right.

Ray

Ray K wrote:



Doug Miller wrote:

In article , Ray K
wrote:

When replacing my fascia boards, I primed them with a non-shellac-based
primer. Now, the knot holes show just a couple of days after applying
two finish coats. Can I get away with spot priming the knots with
shellac right over the existing finish coats, then applying new finish
coats? Or must I first sand the knotted areas down to bare wood?


I'd sure try spot priming first, to see if it works, before going to
the effort of sanding down to bare wood.


The problem is than new gutters are going up in two days, and I want
everything to be okay for sure by then. Yes, the gutters will cover the
knot stains, anyway, but still I prefer to treat them right.

Ray

Rent a power sander. Do it right. Shellac will dry in a few hours.

William W. Plummer wrote:

Rent a power sander. Do it right. Shellac will dry in a few hours.

I don't even have to rent one: I already own one. I guess I'll just bite
the bullet and sand. There really aren't that many knots; in 156' of
fascia, there are perhaps 15 knots.

Thanks,

Ray

Rent a power sander. Do it right. Shellac will dry in a few hours.

Why sand it? Slop on some paint remover over all 15 knots, go back and scrape
each one clean. cover with shellac or whatever and paint to suit. Time elapsed,
maybe 30 minutes, no fuss. HTH

Joe

Turn out that Zinzer makes a pigmented shellac primer that they claim
will adhere to even glossy paint. My paint is satin finish. It worked
just fine. After two days, no more bleed. Before using the shellac,
bleed would occur within two days. So it looks the problem is solved.

Thanks,

Ray


Joe Bobst wrote:
Rent a power sander. Do it right. Shellac will dry in a few hours.

Why sand it? Slop on some paint remover over all 15 knots, go back and scrape
each one clean. cover with shellac or whatever and paint to suit. Time elapsed,
maybe 30 minutes, no fuss. HTH

Joe