Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
Much better to discard it and get something with a longer handle https://tinyurl.com/yag6ddqr That "teloscopic torque wrench" was a new tool to my eyes! (Too bad it doesn't take a socket because it's 17/19 & while I need 21mm). It must be a clever internal mechanism that calculates the torque correctly when you can change the distance along the lever! Basically, I was asking if it's short because that way, a normal human can only apply about 85 foot pounds which is all they can do with that short bar and their hands? But don't most people jump on it using their whole body weight ? :) Truth be told, I've used my appreciable body weight for /removing/ lug bolts ... but never for tightening them. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
You can always rotate the socket 1/4 turn on the 1/2" drive to get 12th of a turn when space to swing the bar is tight. I never thought of that! The math confused me so may I reiterate what I "think" you just said? Am I correct in assuming you're saying that you can rotate a 12-point socket by 1/12th, while you can only rotate a 6-point socket by 1/6th --- but ... if you cleverly rotate /both/ the 6-point socket by 1/6th and the half-inch socket wrench end of the socket by 1/4, you get the same effect? yes, but it is so rarely needed it is not worth worrying about It's still nice to know that you can get the same angle effect out of a six point socket that you can out of a 12-point socket, simply by rotating the 4-point extension bar location. Personally, my tools just "grew" over time, where I have some 12 points and some 6 points where some are normal sockets, deep sockets, and impact sockets, where I wish I had known what I'm learning in this thread in the beginning. Seems to me that the /first/ set anyone should get are normal length & deep six-point sockets (both metric & SAE). The metric & SAE 12-point sets should come next, I would think. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 18/02/2018 20:37, ultred ragnusen wrote:
wrote: I've heard people say use the shortest extension bar you can get your hands on. I don't understand why. It should be the same torque if I used a 16-inch extension bar, right? no because some force will just be twisting the bar, Imagine a bar a mile long, you twist one end with a known force, the other end would not move. That makes too much sense for Usenet! :) I guess there are two faults with a 20" extension bar that a 2" extenstion bar wouldh't have then. 1. Some of the measured torque is wasted in twisting the bar, and, 2. Any extension bar not at 90 degrees to the nut also changes the torque. Both effects are probably slight - but perhaps measurable? certainly, but there is no need for such precision in this application. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
better to leave the tyres alone, rotating the position of tyres went out of fashion about 60 years ago. I realize all the responses (so far) to this post were trolls or jokes, but if you were actually serious, please do read my explanation below of what I feel is the inherent value in rotating tires periodically. In my case, the suspension is aligned (caster, camber, and toe anyway), and tires are selected, mounted, and balanced (statically), and pressurized, and repaired (from the inside with a patchplug), and rotated by me, so everything about those tires is up to me, and not to a mechanic who is paid by the hour who might skip some of the steps that I do (see below) to save time. Of course, I can only meticulously statically balance the wheel-and-tire assembly, but the dynamic-balance test of driving at speeds shows no dynamic imbalance that can be felt by the driver. http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/...ic_balance.jpg Given the well-aligned vehicle is driven daily on mountainous hilly steep very windy roads, including a mandatory K-turn daily, the fronts inevitably develop a unidirectional feathering that can be barely felt by the hand which is palpable consistently at around 4K miles. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...828_100512.jpg Since the spare is a different brand, I rotate in the classic four-wheel II-X-II-X pattern that puts each tire at each of the four corners over a period of 12K miles (about 8 to 10 months of driving) - and - when I rotate - I inspect the entire carcass for pebbles & shards as shown here from this weekend. http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter1.jpg To overcome some of the boredom of plucking detritus out of the tread, I count the objects removed, where there are always more than 50 per tire, so I try to approach a count of 100 objects removed, some of which turn out to be this (staple?) shard I found yesterday. http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter2.jpg While you intimate that the periodic inspection and rotation of tires has "gone out of style", my reasonably logical position is that the selection, mounting, balancing, pressurizing, inspection, repair, and rotation of tires is a reasonable and rational act that results in increased safety and life of the tires - partly because removing something like this shard never goes out of style! http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter3.jpg |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
No need to with those little **** ant things you blokes call cars. That must be why merkins are so keen to own English cars. I'm not sure who is trolling and who is joking as rotating and inspecting tires is a natural thing that you do on most vehicles simply because fronts wear differently than rears, and crowns affect wear and alignment setup per side. http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/...ic_balance.jpg Besides, rotating tires gives you a chance to doublecheck their static balance and to inspect and remove between 50 and 100 pebbles and shards from the carcass. http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter2.jpg With respect to the country of origin of most cars driven in America, I'd wager that Japan has the rest of the world beat in terms of what 'mericans prefer overall. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 18/02/2018 20:44, ultred ragnusen wrote:
wrote: Much better to discard it and get something with a longer handle https://tinyurl.com/yag6ddqr That "teloscopic torque wrench" was a new tool to my eyes! (Too bad it doesn't take a socket because it's 17/19 & while I need 21mm). These telescopic bars have a normal 1/2 inch square drive that any 1/2 drive socket can fit into. You don't have to use the socket it comes with. It's not a torque wrench - its just a wrench with a telescopic handle that is at least twice as long as that which normally comes with the car kit. It gives you much more leverage when trying to free the nut. It's the same principle of adding a scaffolding over over an existing wrench bar to make it longer. It must be a clever internal mechanism that calculates the torque correctly when you can change the distance along the lever! It you added an extension tube to the end of a normal click type torque wrench to make the handle twice as long and you applied your pressure to the end this extension wouldn't the torque wrench still click at the correct torque? -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 2/18/18 3:17 PM, ultred ragnusen wrote:
With respect to the country of origin of most cars driven in America, I'd wager that Japan has the rest of the world beat in terms of what 'mericans prefer overall. b The only British car I see in the mid USA is the Mini. There are lots of cars with Japanese badges around. Some of those are built in the US though. Supposedly US vehicles might be built in Canada or Mexico. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Sun, 18 Feb 2018 21:17:55 -0000, ultred ragnusen wrote: wrote: No need to with those little **** ant things you blokes call cars. That must be why merkins are so keen to own English cars. I'm not sure who is trolling and who is joking as rotating and inspecting tires is a natural thing that you do on most vehicles simply because fronts wear differently than rears, and crowns affect wear and alignment setup per side. http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/...ic_balance.jpg Besides, rotating tires gives you a chance to doublecheck their static balance and to inspect and remove between 50 and 100 pebbles and shards from the carcass. http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter2.jpg With respect to the country of origin of most cars driven in America, I'd wager that Japan has the rest of the world beat in terms of what 'mericans prefer overall. Yes, the fronts wear faster than the rears, but so what?! You replace whatever wears out when it wears out. What on earth is the point in moving them around so you have to replace all four at once?! It's called preventive maintenance. You are too stupid to understand this. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
These telescopic bars have a normal 1/2 inch square drive that any 1/2 drive socket can fit into. You don't have to use the socket it comes with. Oh. Thanks. That's good because any decent toolbox has a set of 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" metric and SAE sockets. Hmmmm... I just realized that those socket sizes are in SAE units, and not in metric units. Do the 4-sided openings in European sockets conform to the same standard 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes we use in America? Or do the Europeans use a metric sized drive square? It's not a torque wrench - its just a wrench with a telescopic handle that is at least twice as long as that which normally comes with the car kit. It gives you much more leverage when trying to free the nut. It's the same principle of adding a scaffolding over over an existing wrench bar to make it longer. Oh. I see. Yes. We all have used a pipe in times of need, to extend our leverage. Most of us have pretty long "breaker bars" though, which is what I would use if I needed the torque to remove a bolt. It must be a clever internal mechanism that calculates the torque correctly when you can change the distance along the lever! It you added an extension tube to the end of a normal click type torque wrench to make the handle twice as long and you applied your pressure to the end this extension wouldn't the torque wrench still click at the correct torque? It would as long as the only point of that loosely fitting extension tube touching the torque wrench were at the place that you would have put your hand on the torque wrench. I guess if you put a tightly fitting extension tube over the torque wrench of a length that doubles the torque wrench length, then you'd get a "reading" of (half? double?) on the torque wrench. Let me think about that.... (would it be double or half?). Upon a few moments of circumspection, I'm not sure, but I think you'd get a reading that is half what it actually is?????? |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 18/02/2018 21:21, alan_m wrote:
These telescopic bars have a normal 1/2 inch square drive that any 1/2 drive socket can fit into. You don't have to use the socket it comes with. Different picture https://www.screwfix.com/p/rac-teles...-17-19mm/7182r -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
Yes, the fronts wear faster than the rears, but so what?! You replace whatever wears out when it wears out. It's hard to tell if you're serious or if you're just trolling because I already said multiple times in this thread that a palpable feathering occurs at around 4K miles, which is normal for some vehicles driven under certain conditions, even when tires are properly inflated and suspensions are properly aligned. What on earth is the point in moving them around so you have to replace all four at once?! While readjusting the assembly static balance and tire pressure (if necessary) is more of a comfort than safety issue, there's added safety in inspecting the tires closely periodically to look for damage and to pluck out objects, where invariably between 50 and 100 pebbles and shards are removed from each tire in each rotation cycle. So that's roughly about 50x4x4 objects removed every year from your tires. How many of those 800 objects would eventually cause a blowout? Maybe fewer than 1/10th of a percent, but this tiny shard I removed yesterday certainly had a slow-leak potential: http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter3.jpg |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 18/02/2018 21:29, ultred ragnusen wrote:
Do the 4-sided openings in European sockets conform to the same standard 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes we use in America? Or do the Europeans use a metric sized drive square? Yep, standard 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 square drives which can be used with both imperial and metric hex/12 point sockets. It would as long as the only point of that loosely fitting extension tube touching the torque wrench were at the place that you would have put your hand on the torque wrench. I guess if you put a tightly fitting extension tube over the torque wrench of a length that doubles the torque wrench length, then you'd get a "reading" of (half? double?) on the torque wrench. Let me think about that.... (would it be double or half?). You can place you hands on any part of a click type torque wrench to get it to work correctly. Upon a few moments of circumspection, I'm not sure, but I think you'd get a reading that is half what it actually is?????? No, the end of the torque wrench would move exactly the same distance. The end of the extension would move by twice the distance as the end of the torque wrench. -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 18/02/2018 21:37, ultred ragnusen wrote:
How many of those 800 objects would eventually cause a blowout? In my experience of 40 years of driving all my punctures have been made by objects long enough to go straight through the tyre the moment I drove over it. By your logic if 10% of the shards could result in a puncture would all of us that don't preform this task expect around one puncture per month? -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
Do the 4-sided openings in European sockets conform to the same standard 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes we use in America? Or do the Europeans use a metric sized drive square? Yep, standard 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 square drives which can be used with both imperial and metric hex/12 point sockets. That's strange that Europeans use a half-metric half-what-you-call-Imperial standard of units. To us, Imperial is a strange word, where it often means Imperial Japan or Imperial British (meaning before WWII in our vernacular), but we never use the word "imperial" in terms of measurement units (at least I don't). I have seen "imperial gallons" where I have to ask what they are, since we just have gallons and liters and nothing else (similarly with regular tons and long tons I guess). I guess, since the US is anything but imperial, that the term must be so old as to predate the SAE, and to relate to Imperial British units? Let me think about that.... (would it be double or half?). You can place you hands on any part of a click type torque wrench to get it to work correctly. I thought all torque wrenches needed your hand in a certain given spot? Upon a few moments of circumspection, I'm not sure, but I think you'd get a reading that is half what it actually is?????? No, the end of the torque wrench would move exactly the same distance. The end of the extension would move by twice the distance as the end of the torque wrench. OK. I'm confused because I have a dial-type wrench which has a pin which certainly is to prevent you from putting force at any other point for this reason alone.... |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
How many of those 800 objects would eventually cause a blowout? In my experience of 40 years of driving all my punctures have been made by objects long enough to go straight through the tyre the moment I drove over it. By your logic if 10% of the shards could result in a puncture would all of us that don't preform this task expect around one puncture per month? I can't stake my mortgage on the percentage but I did say one tenth of one percent, and I did easily count over fifty objects per tire, which is about 800 objects per year, which let's just call 1000 objects in a year for simplicity of math per set of four tires. One tenth of one percent of that number is 1 slow leak a year due to shards, which I agree might be too much. How many slow leaks have you had over the years? If it's a slow-or-fast leak once every ten years due to an object penetrating the carcass, then the percentage is roughly about one-hundredth of one percent. How often do you get a leak (slow or fast) in your tires due to object penetration? I think the (slow or fast) leak due to an object penetrating the carcass percentage is somewhere in between the one tenth of one percent and one hundredth of one percent, don't you think? Statistically speaking, I get your drift that it isn't worth removing shards from a tire just to prevent a slow leak every couple of years, but, anecdotally, what do you think this shard would have done, over time? http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter3.jpg |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 2/18/18 4:25 PM, ultred ragnusen wrote:
I thought all torque wrenches needed your hand in a certain given spot? They measure torque at the head of the wrench, not the end of the handle. Take a wrench with a 2 foot handle. Say it takes 50 pounds of force at the end of the handle to loosen a nut. Take a wrench with a 4 foot handle. It will take 25 pounds of force at the end of the that one's handle to loosen the same nut. That's why cheater pipes work. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 2/18/2018 4:38 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 2/18/18 4:25 PM, ultred ragnusen wrote: I thought all torque wrenches needed your hand in a certain given spot? They measure torque at the head of the wrench, not the end of the handle. Take a wrench with a 2 foot handle. Say it takes 50 pounds of force at the end of the handle to loosen a nut. Take a wrench with a 4 foot handle. It will take 25 pounds of force at the end of the that one's handle to loosen the same nut. That's why cheater pipes work. Classic beam scale torque wrenches do indeed rely on a single point load which is why the handle has a pivot pin. Your comments are correct for click wrenches. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
No quote.
Is it this hard to put on a tire? Tighten till tight. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 18/02/2018 22:25, ultred ragnusen wrote:
That's strange that Europeans use a half-metric half-what-you-call-Imperial standard of units. Not necessarily the rest of Europe but the UK. I'm now retired and during my schooling it was mainly the metric system that was taught. In the UK we still use a imperial units for some items. Beer in pubs is sold in pints and not litres. Vehicle speed and road signs are still in miles and not kilometres. Manufactures/dealers still refer to petrol consumption in miles per gallon even though petrol has been sold by the litre for 3 decades or more. I was an engineer by profession and only used metric my whole working life for the job. Some non-metric items are throwback to history - they have been that way for hundreds of years and haven't changed. To us, Imperial is a strange word, where it often means Imperial Japan or Imperial British (meaning before WWII in our vernacular), but we never use the word "imperial" in terms of measurement units (at least I don't). I have seen "imperial gallons" where I have to ask what they are, since we just have gallons and liters and nothing else (similarly with regular tons and long tons I guess). We only say gallons BUT when talking to the ex-colonies we have to say 'Imperial' because your pints and gallons are different from ours. 1 imperial (UK) pint = 1.2 US pint 1 imperial (UK) gallon = 1.2 US gallons There is also the tonne = 1,000 kg -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 2/18/18 4:48 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/18/2018 4:38 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote: On 2/18/18 4:25 PM, ultred ragnusen wrote: I thought all torque wrenches needed your hand in a certain given spot? Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* They measure torque at the head of the wrench, not the end of the handle. Take a wrench with a 2 foot handle.Â* Say it takes 50 pounds of force at the end of the handleÂ* to loosen a nut.Â*Â* Take a wrench with a 4 foot handle. It will take 25 pounds of force at the end of the that one's handle to loosen the same nut.Â*Â* That's why cheater pipes work. Classic beam scale torque wrenches do indeed rely on a single point load which is why the handle has a pivot pin. Your comments are correct for click wrenches. I don't get the why if this is what you mean by beam scale torque wrench. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Presa-1-4-in-Drive-0-in-to-80-in-lbs-Beam-Style-Torque-Wrench-CP31006/206975714 or http://alturl.com/wsjx3 |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 18/02/2018 22:32, ultred ragnusen wrote:
I can't stake my mortgage on the percentage but I did say one tenth of one percent, and I did easily count over fifty objects per tire, which is about 800 objects per year, which let's just call 1000 objects in a year for simplicity of math per set of four tires. One tenth of one percent of that number is 1 slow leak a year due to shards, which I agree might be too much. My apologies, I did mis-read one tenth as ten percent. However, even when I've had slow leaks its been objects that have fully penetrated the tyre at the the time I ran over it, or a few rotations of the wheel later. Nails and screws often cause a puncture but then until removed either seal the puncture or cause a very slow leak Statistically speaking, I get your drift that it isn't worth removing shards from a tire just to prevent a slow leak every couple of years, but, anecdotally, what do you think this shard would have done, over time? http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter3.jpg i) it would have fallen off. ii) as the tyre wears it would have become the high spot and be ground off by the road surface -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
Gay Wanker Birdbrain Macaw (now "James Wilkinson" LOL), theSociopathic Attention Whore
On 18/02/2018 23:02, Peeler wrote:
On Sun, 18 Feb 2018 22:40:43 -0000, James Wilkinson Sword wrote: On Sun, 18 Feb 2018 21:29:24 -0000, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote: James Wilkinson Sword wrote: On Sun, 18 Feb 2018 21:17:55 -0000, ultred ragnusen wrote: wrote: No need to with those little **** ant things you blokes call cars. That must be why merkins are so keen to own English cars. I'm not sure who is trolling and who is joking as rotating and inspecting tires is a natural thing that you do on most vehicles simply because fronts wear differently than rears, and crowns affect wear and alignment setup per side. http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/...ic_balance.jpg Besides, rotating tires gives you a chance to doublecheck their static balance and to inspect and remove between 50 and 100 pebbles and shards from the carcass. http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter2.jpg With respect to the country of origin of most cars driven in America, I'd wager that Japan has the rest of the world beat in terms of what 'mericans prefer overall. Yes, the fronts wear faster than the rears, but so what?! You replace whatever wears out when it wears out. What on earth is the point in moving them around so you have to replace all four at once?! It's called preventive maintenance. You are too stupid to understand this. It doesn't change the speed at which the tyres wear out, so is utterly pointless. Don't bother replying, you're killfiled, I just peeked into it to see what ****e you were spouting. ROTFLOL! And Birdbrain, the resident gay ****** of all the UK ngs, quickly hides behind his ridiculous pretend killfile again! ****ing HILARIOUS! LOL I sure hope that eventually all of your neighbours and relatives will learn about your "reputation" on these groups, Peter Hucker, you filthy sociopathic ******! LOL ROTFLOL! And Peeler, Birdbrain's jilted lover, is jealous all that spunk is going to waste. |
Gay Wanker Birdbrain Macaw (now "James Wilkinson" LOL), the Sociopathic Attention Whore
On Sun, 18 Feb 2018 23:20:31 +0000, Fredxx, the resident smartass,
smartassed again: ROTFLOL! And Birdbrain, the resident gay ****** of all the UK ngs, quickly hides behind his ridiculous pretend killfile again! ****ing HILARIOUS! LOL I sure hope that eventually all of your neighbours and relatives will learn about your "reputation" on these groups, Peter Hucker, you filthy sociopathic ******! LOL ROTFLOL! And Peeler, Birdbrain's jilted lover, is jealous all that spunk is going to waste. You felt personally addressed when "gay ******" was mentioned? Obviously RIGHTLY so, you smartass who can never hold back his gay fantasies! BG Remember, gay smartass: you, TOO, claimed to have "killfiled" me! ROTFLOL |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
"MrCheerful" wrote:
I think not - but I've heard people say use the shortest extension bar you can get your hands on. I don't understand why. It should be the same torque if I used a 16-inch extension bar, right? no because some force will just be twisting the bar, Imagine a bar a mile long, you twist one end with a known force, the other end would not move. Oh crap. Is this myth still floating around? We're not measuring *movement*, we're measuring *torque*. Place a 100 pound weight on one end of a 5-foot long teeter-totter. How much weight do you add to the other end to balance it? Place a 100 pound weight on one end of a mile long teeter-totter. Same question. (PS: You'll get the same answer) Back to the actual question: 3-inch extension keeps you close to the nut, unlikely to twist sideways and fall off. 16-inch extension has the possibility of pulling the socket out of alignment, maybe rounding off the nut, and scraping your knuckles (and your shiny new wrench) on the ground, UNLESS you properly support the wrench at the head end to keep it straight. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
You really need to find something more interesting to do with your life. Pot, kettle, black. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 2/18/2018 5:07 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 2/18/18 4:48 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 2/18/2018 4:38 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote: On 2/18/18 4:25 PM, ultred ragnusen wrote: I thought all torque wrenches needed your hand in a certain given spot?       They measure torque at the head of the wrench, not the end of the handle. Take a wrench with a 2 foot handle. Say it takes 50 pounds of force at the end of the handle to loosen a nut.  Take a wrench with a 4 foot handle. It will take 25 pounds of force at the end of the that one's handle to loosen the same nut.  That's why cheater pipes work. Classic beam scale torque wrenches do indeed rely on a single point load which is why the handle has a pivot pin. Your comments are correct for click wrenches. I don't get the why if this is what you mean by beam scale torque wrench. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Presa-1-4-in-Drive-0-in-to-80-in-lbs-Beam-Style-Torque-Wrench-CP31006/206975714 or http://alturl.com/wsjx3 Yep that's the style. Scale reading assumes the load is at the handle pivot pin. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
Statistically speaking, I get your drift that it isn't worth removing shards from a tire just to prevent a slow leak every couple of years, but, anecdotally, what do you think this shard would have done, over time? http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter3.jpg i) it would have fallen off. ii) as the tyre wears it would have become the high spot and be ground off by the road surface Hmmmm.... maybe it would have fallen off, which most pebbles, I'd wager, would do. But this would likely, IMHO, have simply been pushed further into the tire, particularly given it's arrowhead shape. Personally, based on the shape and direct angle of entry normal to the tire surface, I give that shard from a 95% to 99% chance of having punctured the tire over time, whereas I give a round pebble only from 1/10th to 1/100th of one percent the same chance. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
I don't get the why if this is what you mean by beam scale torque wrench. I show both types of torque wrenches in my original post, reproduced below. http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/17/torquewrench.jpg The "beam style" (with the black handle & red pointer) has a "pivot pin" to ensure that your force is applied at a single point of contact on the bar. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
No quote. Is it this hard to put on a tire? Tighten till tight. How tight? |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
wrote:
That's strange that Europeans use a half-metric half-what-you-call-Imperial standard of units. Not necessarily the rest of Europe but the UK. Do the Germans and French also use "inch" sizes for their ratchets? We only say gallons BUT when talking to the ex-colonies we have to say 'Imperial' because your pints and gallons are different from ours. 1 imperial (UK) pint = 1.2 US pint 1 imperial (UK) gallon = 1.2 US gallons I see. Like you, we only speak of "gallons", where we don't ever need to distinguish between your gallons and our gallons, I guess. :) |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 19/02/2018 00:23, ultred ragnusen wrote:
wrote: That's strange that Europeans use a half-metric half-what-you-call-Imperial standard of units. Not necessarily the rest of Europe but the UK. Do the Germans and French also use "inch" sizes for their ratchets? I believe it's an international standard with no metric equivalents for the "drive" side of sockets. -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
In article ,
Dean Hoffman wrote: The only British car I see in the mid USA is the Mini. Wot - no Range Rovers? Jaguars? Nissans? -- *If vegetable oil comes from vegetables, where does baby oil come from? * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
In article ,
Sanity Clause wrote: Back to the actual question: 3-inch extension keeps you close to the nut, unlikely to twist sideways and fall off. 16-inch extension has the possibility of pulling the socket out of alignment, maybe rounding off the nut, and scraping your knuckles (and your shiny new wrench) on the ground, UNLESS you properly support the wrench at the head end to keep it straight. If you have a spare jack, place it under the extension bar to reduce sideways load on the socket. You can then use your full body weight on the breaker bar with less chance of breaking the tools. -- *Why are they called apartments, when they're all stuck together? * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On 2/18/18 7:00 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Dean Hoffman wrote: The only British car I see in the mid USA is the Mini. Wot - no Range Rovers? Jaguars? Nissans? Shucks. I forgot. I actually know someone who has a Range Rover. There was a Jag convertible around for awhile but I haven't seen it for years. Nissans are Japanese, Mexican, or American made at least for the North American market. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On Sun, 18 Feb 2018 09:00:02 -0800, ultred ragnusen
wrote: wrote: First question is what is the practical difference between these three 21mm (13/16ths) "sockets" for the lug bolts on the car I was working on today? http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/17/socket_ends.jpg 1. The standard lug wrench (green) has 6 points, each at a sharp angle. 2. The impact socket (black) has 6 points, each at a semicircular angle. 3. The standard socket (chrome) has 12 points, each at a sharp angle. The impact socket is superior for that application - whether using an impact driver or not. A 12 point socket is better in situations where fine motion is required. This is good to know that the impact socket is superior, probably for two reasons, right? 1. It has those radius corners (someone said it reduces stress on both the nuts and the socket itself). 2. It is stronger overall (presumably) Since there is always a drawback, I think the drawback might be: 3. They're "fatter" it seems, than my normal sockets 4. They don't seem to come in 12-point sizes (at least mine aren't) That's because 12 point sockets are not the best to use on an impact - as discussed previously. And yes, they ARE fatter - because they REALLY need to be. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On Sun, 18 Feb 2018 15:28:22 -0600, Dean Hoffman
wrote: On 2/18/18 3:17 PM, ultred ragnusen wrote: With respect to the country of origin of most cars driven in America, I'd wager that Japan has the rest of the world beat in terms of what 'mericans prefer overall. b The only British car I see in the mid USA is the Mini. There are lots of cars with Japanese badges around. Some of those are built in the US though. Supposedly US vehicles might be built in Canada or Mexico. Or Korea if it wears a bow-tie. |
Gay Wanker Birdbrain Macaw (now "James Wilkinson" LOL), theSociopathic Attention Whore
On 18/02/2018 23:43, Peeler wrote:
On Sun, 18 Feb 2018 23:20:31 +0000, Fredxx, the resident smartass, smartassed again: ROTFLOL! And Birdbrain, the resident gay ****** of all the UK ngs, quickly hides behind his ridiculous pretend killfile again! ****ing HILARIOUS! LOL I sure hope that eventually all of your neighbours and relatives will learn about your "reputation" on these groups, Peter Hucker, you filthy sociopathic ******! LOL ROTFLOL! And Peeler, Birdbrain's jilted lover, is jealous all that spunk is going to waste. You felt personally addressed when "gay ******" was mentioned? Obviously RIGHTLY so, you smartass who can never hold back his gay fantasies! BG I didn't feel addressed, and I don't feel the need to dribble over PHucker's every post. Remember, gay smartass: you, TOO, claimed to have "killfiled" me! ROTFLOL Unfortunately not in uk.rec.cars.maintenance but is easily remedied. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On Sun, 18 Feb 2018 13:37:01 -0800, ultred ragnusen
wrote: wrote: Yes, the fronts wear faster than the rears, but so what?! You replace whatever wears out when it wears out. It's hard to tell if you're serious or if you're just trolling because I already said multiple times in this thread that a palpable feathering occurs at around 4K miles, which is normal for some vehicles driven under certain conditions, even when tires are properly inflated and suspensions are properly aligned. What on earth is the point in moving them around so you have to replace all four at once?! While readjusting the assembly static balance and tire pressure (if necessary) is more of a comfort than safety issue, there's added safety in inspecting the tires closely periodically to look for damage and to pluck out objects, where invariably between 50 and 100 pebbles and shards are removed from each tire in each rotation cycle. So that's roughly about 50x4x4 objects removed every year from your tires. How many of those 800 objects would eventually cause a blowout? Virtually none. Of those 50 to 100 pebbles etc you remove, better than 90% will have left the tires and been replaced by different ones within about 100 KM of driving. Maybe fewer than 1/10th of a percent, but this tiny shard I removed yesterday certainly had a slow-leak potential: http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter3.jpg |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On Sun, 18 Feb 2018 21:59:23 +0000, alan_m
wrote: On 18/02/2018 21:37, ultred ragnusen wrote: How many of those 800 objects would eventually cause a blowout? In my experience of 40 years of driving all my punctures have been made by objects long enough to go straight through the tyre the moment I drove over it. By your logic if 10% of the shards could result in a puncture would all of us that don't preform this task expect around one puncture per month? I average about one puncture every 10 years between my 2 vehicles. |
Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?
On Sun, 18 Feb 2018 14:32:58 -0800, ultred ragnusen
wrote: wrote: How many of those 800 objects would eventually cause a blowout? In my experience of 40 years of driving all my punctures have been made by objects long enough to go straight through the tyre the moment I drove over it. By your logic if 10% of the shards could result in a puncture would all of us that don't preform this task expect around one puncture per month? I can't stake my mortgage on the percentage but I did say one tenth of one percent, and I did easily count over fifty objects per tire, which is about 800 objects per year, which let's just call 1000 objects in a year for simplicity of math per set of four tires. One tenth of one percent of that number is 1 slow leak a year due to shards, which I agree might be too much. How many slow leaks have you had over the years? If it's a slow-or-fast leak once every ten years due to an object penetrating the carcass, then the percentage is roughly about one-hundredth of one percent. How often do you get a leak (slow or fast) in your tires due to object penetration? I think the (slow or fast) leak due to an object penetrating the carcass percentage is somewhere in between the one tenth of one percent and one hundredth of one percent, don't you think? Statistically speaking, I get your drift that it isn't worth removing shards from a tire just to prevent a slow leak every couple of years, but, anecdotally, what do you think this shard would have done, over time? http://wetakepic.com/images/2018/02/18/splinter3.jpg Fallen out. Or worn off. |
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