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#1
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Floor Joist Repair
Hey guys,
Ok so I am remodeling my basement which is technically the first floor of a two story home, I took out the ceiling and noted a cracked joist that runs a 20 foot span under my kitchen and dinning room, there is no center support and it is supported at the ends on top of cinder block and set in concrete. The crack is 8 feet from the wall in my laundry room which is under my kitchen and extends approx. 3in from the bottom edge into the beam across a 1 foot span. The beam is a 2x12x20. To repair this I want to sister it and build a frame to support it in the middle which I can accomplish by adding a door way to the laundry room. I want to put king beams on either side approx. 48in apart and have a 3 foot opening into my laundry room. I was going to use 2 stacked 2x4s to make the header. My question, Is this adequate support? What can I do to make this better? I just want to make sure I do this right, Thanks for your help. |
#2
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Floor Joist Repair
On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:23:51 AM UTC-5, Kat McGrath wrote:
Hey guys, Ok so I am remodeling my basement which is technically the first floor of a two story home, I took out the ceiling and noted a cracked joist that runs a 20 foot span under my kitchen and dinning room, there is no center support and it is supported at the ends on top of cinder block and set in concrete. The crack is 8 feet from the wall in my laundry room which is under my kitchen and extends approx. 3in from the bottom edge into the beam across a 1 foot span. The beam is a 2x12x20. To repair this I want to sister it and build a frame to support it in the middle which I can accomplish by adding a door way to the laundry room. I want to put king beams on either side approx. 48in apart and have a 3 foot opening into my laundry room. I was going to use 2 stacked 2x4s to make the header. My question, Is this adequate support? What can I do to make this better? I just want to make sure I do this right, Thanks for your help. You call it a joist in one place, a beam in another. It would seem if it's a joist, then with a 48" wide support under it, that support over the door will not carry just one joist, but two or more. Really need more info on the whole situation. A 20 ft span with no mid-span support doesn't sound right, so I agree, you're on the right track. All those joists would need mid-span support. |
#3
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Floor Joist Repair
Really need more info on the whole situation. A 20 ft span with no mid-span support doesn't sound right, so I agree, you're on the right track. All those joists would need mid-span support. http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/c...tware/spancalc 2 x 12 16 inch center 19 ft. 6 inches ? John T. |
#4
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Floor Joist Repair
On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 07:45:17 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote: The crack is 8 feet from the wall in my laundry room which is under my kitchen Now that we know where the crack is, you will be arrested for possession of an illegal drug substance. It was nice of you to reveal the location of this narcotic, so we can swiftly put you in prison without further delays. The FBI |
#5
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Floor Joist Repair
On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 07:23:43 -0800 (PST), Kat McGrath
wrote: Hey guys, Ok so I am remodeling my basement which is technically the first floor of a two story home, I took out the ceiling and noted a cracked joist that runs a 20 foot span under my kitchen and dinning room, there is no center support and it is supported at the ends on top of cinder block and set in concrete. The crack is 8 feet from the wall in my laundry room which is under my kitchen and extends approx. 3in from the bottom edge into the beam across a 1 foot span. The beam is a 2x12x20. To repair this I want to sister it and build a frame to support it in the middle which I can accomplish by adding a door way to the laundry room. I want to put king beams on either side approx. 48in apart and have a 3 foot opening into my laundry room. I was going to use 2 stacked 2x4s to make the header. My question, Is this adequate support? What can I do to make this better? I just want to make sure I do this right, Thanks for your help. Sister the joists full length with 2X12. If you can't get 20 footers, use 16 footers on both sides, staggered end for end, plus 4 footers to fill in the length - bolt and glue. The header above the door opening is stronger with 2X4 lumber set upright, 2 or 3 wide, than on the flat 2 deep. Supporting the beams on the door posts requires a proper footing under the support posts - do NOT simply plant the posts on the concrete floor. |
#6
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Floor Joist Repair
On Wed, 03 Jan 2018 20:14:31 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote: On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 07:23:43 -0800 (PST), Kat McGrath wrote: Hey guys, Ok so I am remodeling my basement which is technically the first floor of a two story home, I took out the ceiling and noted a cracked joist that runs a 20 foot span under my kitchen and dinning room, there is no center support and it is supported at the ends on top of cinder block and set in concrete. The crack is 8 feet from the wall in my laundry room which is under my kitchen and extends approx. 3in from the bottom edge into the beam across a 1 foot span. The beam is a 2x12x20. To repair this I want to sister it and build a frame to support it in the middle which I can accomplish by adding a door way to the laundry room. I want to put king beams on either side approx. 48in apart and have a 3 foot opening into my laundry room. I was going to use 2 stacked 2x4s to make the header. My question, Is this adequate support? What can I do to make this better? I just want to make sure I do this right, Thanks for your help. Sister the joists full length with 2X12. If you can't get 20 footers, use 16 footers on both sides, staggered end for end, plus 4 footers to fill in the length - bolt and glue. The header above the door opening is stronger with 2X4 lumber set upright, 2 or 3 wide, than on the flat 2 deep. Supporting the beams on the door posts requires a proper footing under the support posts - do NOT simply plant the posts on the concrete floor. I read it as a 1 foot long crack in a 2 x 12 .. ... not near to the edge or to the end. My first thought was sandwich it with 5/8 plywood - - 3 - 4 feet long - glued & screwed .. And I thought that might be over-kill ... dunno. John T. |
#7
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Floor Joist Repair
On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:00:16 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 03 Jan 2018 20:14:31 -0500, Clare Snyder wrote: On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 07:23:43 -0800 (PST), Kat McGrath wrote: Hey guys, Ok so I am remodeling my basement which is technically the first floor of a two story home, I took out the ceiling and noted a cracked joist that runs a 20 foot span under my kitchen and dinning room, there is no center support and it is supported at the ends on top of cinder block and set in concrete. The crack is 8 feet from the wall in my laundry room which is under my kitchen and extends approx. 3in from the bottom edge into the beam across a 1 foot span. The beam is a 2x12x20. To repair this I want to sister it and build a frame to support it in the middle which I can accomplish by adding a door way to the laundry room. I want to put king beams on either side approx. 48in apart and have a 3 foot opening into my laundry room. I was going to use 2 stacked 2x4s to make the header. My question, Is this adequate support? What can I do to make this better? I just want to make sure I do this right, Thanks for your help. Sister the joists full length with 2X12. If you can't get 20 footers, use 16 footers on both sides, staggered end for end, plus 4 footers to fill in the length - bolt and glue. The header above the door opening is stronger with 2X4 lumber set upright, 2 or 3 wide, than on the flat 2 deep. Supporting the beams on the door posts requires a proper footing under the support posts - do NOT simply plant the posts on the concrete floor. I read it as a 1 foot long crack in a 2 x 12 .. .. not near to the edge or to the end. My first thought was sandwich it with 5/8 plywood - - 3 - 4 feet long - glued & screwed .. And I thought that might be over-kill ... dunno. John T. Could also be a shear crack and nothing to worry about. Get someone who knows what they're doing to look at it. This is not DIY stuff. |
#8
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Floor Joist Repair
On Thu, 4 Jan 2018 07:07:36 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote: On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:00:16 PM UTC-5, wrote: On Wed, 03 Jan 2018 20:14:31 -0500, Clare Snyder wrote: On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 07:23:43 -0800 (PST), Kat McGrath wrote: Hey guys, Ok so I am remodeling my basement which is technically the first floor of a two story home, I took out the ceiling and noted a cracked joist that runs a 20 foot span under my kitchen and dinning room, there is no center support and it is supported at the ends on top of cinder block and set in concrete. The crack is 8 feet from the wall in my laundry room which is under my kitchen and extends approx. 3in from the bottom edge into the beam across a 1 foot span. The beam is a 2x12x20. To repair this I want to sister it and build a frame to support it in the middle which I can accomplish by adding a door way to the laundry room. I want to put king beams on either side approx. 48in apart and have a 3 foot opening into my laundry room. I was going to use 2 stacked 2x4s to make the header. My question, Is this adequate support? What can I do to make this better? I just want to make sure I do this right, Thanks for your help. Sister the joists full length with 2X12. If you can't get 20 footers, use 16 footers on both sides, staggered end for end, plus 4 footers to fill in the length - bolt and glue. The header above the door opening is stronger with 2X4 lumber set upright, 2 or 3 wide, than on the flat 2 deep. Supporting the beams on the door posts requires a proper footing under the support posts - do NOT simply plant the posts on the concrete floor. I read it as a 1 foot long crack in a 2 x 12 .. .. not near to the edge or to the end. My first thought was sandwich it with 5/8 plywood - - 3 - 4 feet long - glued & screwed .. And I thought that might be over-kill ... dunno. John T. Could also be a shear crack and nothing to worry about. Get someone who knows what they're doing to look at it. This is not DIY stuff. And IF you DIY, rather err on the side of extreme overkill than marginal deficiency. |
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