I dont know if anyone actually discusses home repair on this group
since it's mostly all politics now, but if anyone happens to still
discuss the intended topic, I am looking for some advice about
replacing the floor around my toilet. The floor was made of particle
board and it's gotten bad. I need to replace it around the toilet. The
toilet is loose and has been a little crooked for a long time now.

I know how to remove the toilet, but I am not sure how to fit the
floor around the flange. I plan to use treated 3/4" plywood for the
replacement. The problem is that I have always seen the flange sits ON
TOP of the floor. The plumbing is PVC so I assume the flange is glued
to the pipe. I know that can not be separated.

So, how do I get the flange ON TOP of the floor? The only thing I can
think, is to install it in halves and shove it under the flange. I
suppose this would work, but I'd like to avoid having a seam in the
plywood right under the toilet, especially since I cant add some 2x4
framing under it, with the flange in the middle.

Is there another way to do this?

On Friday, December 1, 2017 at 8:44:53 PM UTC-6, wrote:
I dont know if anyone actually discusses home repair on this group
since it's mostly all politics now, but if anyone happens to still
discuss the intended topic, I am looking for some advice about
replacing the floor around my toilet. The floor was made of particle
board and it's gotten bad. I need to replace it around the toilet. The
toilet is loose and has been a little crooked for a long time now.

I know how to remove the toilet, but I am not sure how to fit the
floor around the flange. I plan to use treated 3/4" plywood for the
replacement. The problem is that I have always seen the flange sits ON
TOP of the floor. The plumbing is PVC so I assume the flange is glued
to the pipe. I know that can not be separated.

So, how do I get the flange ON TOP of the floor? The only thing I can
think, is to install it in halves and shove it under the flange. I
suppose this would work, but I'd like to avoid having a seam in the
plywood right under the toilet, especially since I cant add some 2x4
framing under it, with the flange in the middle.

Is there another way to do this?

It appears that you have it figured out but you should use treated 2X4 lumber under the treated plywood halves. Something to seal the seam and any gaps in the repair might also be a good idea. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Toilet Monster

On 12/1/2017 9:01 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, December 1, 2017 at 8:44:53 PM UTC-6, wrote:
I dont know if anyone actually discusses home repair on this group
since it's mostly all politics now, but if anyone happens to still
discuss the intended topic, I am looking for some advice about
replacing the floor around my toilet. The floor was made of particle
board and it's gotten bad. I need to replace it around the toilet. The
toilet is loose and has been a little crooked for a long time now.

I know how to remove the toilet, but I am not sure how to fit the
floor around the flange. I plan to use treated 3/4" plywood for the
replacement. The problem is that I have always seen the flange sits ON
TOP of the floor. The plumbing is PVC so I assume the flange is glued
to the pipe. I know that can not be separated.

So, how do I get the flange ON TOP of the floor? The only thing I can
think, is to install it in halves and shove it under the flange. I
suppose this would work, but I'd like to avoid having a seam in the
plywood right under the toilet, especially since I cant add some 2x4
framing under it, with the flange in the middle.

Is there another way to do this?
It appears that you have it figured out but you should use treated 2X4 lumber under the treated plywood halves. Something to seal the seam and any gaps in the repair might also be a good idea. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Toilet Monster

Â* He'd be better off to use pieces of the plywood under the joints .
Screw some ledger boards to the floor joists to hold the pieces up(flush
with the top edge of the joists) , effectively doubling the thickness
under the toilet . Construction adhesive is your friend . And don't
forget to screw the flange down to the new subfloor . (20 years as a
flooring installer , did my own subfloor repairs 'cuz the carpenters
just didn't understand what was needed .)

Â* --

Â* Snag

replying to ryan_hill, Iggy wrote:
Yep, in halves or 70/30, but that should only be done to a joist that's right
beside the flange's pipe or where your seam is perpendicular to the joists.
You're right though, best is to cut-out the flange from the pipe and keep the
plywood seamless and to install a new flange on top of the new plywood...as
the flange must be screwed into the plywood and fully anchored.

You'll need this to achieve that preferred operation - Internal Diameter PVC
Pipe Cutter
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inte...7516/204277491
you may also want to go with a wax-free seal to avoid future problems -
Elastic Toilet Gasket (Wax Free) with Toilet Bolts Included
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Elastic-...1002/303074999
I find them much more secure, but have only used them for 10-years so I can't
speak to the wax's longevity comparison.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...t-1152055-.htm

On Fri, 1 Dec 2017 22:00:56 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 12/1/2017 9:01 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, December 1, 2017 at 8:44:53 PM UTC-6, wrote:
I dont know if anyone actually discusses home repair on this group
since it's mostly all politics now, but if anyone happens to still
discuss the intended topic, I am looking for some advice about
replacing the floor around my toilet. The floor was made of particle
board and it's gotten bad. I need to replace it around the toilet. The
toilet is loose and has been a little crooked for a long time now.

I know how to remove the toilet, but I am not sure how to fit the
floor around the flange. I plan to use treated 3/4" plywood for the
replacement. The problem is that I have always seen the flange sits ON
TOP of the floor. The plumbing is PVC so I assume the flange is glued
to the pipe. I know that can not be separated.

So, how do I get the flange ON TOP of the floor? The only thing I can
think, is to install it in halves and shove it under the flange. I
suppose this would work, but I'd like to avoid having a seam in the
plywood right under the toilet, especially since I cant add some 2x4
framing under it, with the flange in the middle.

Is there another way to do this?
It appears that you have it figured out but you should use treated 2X4 lumber
under the treated plywood halves. Something to seal the seam and any gaps in
the repair might also be a good idea. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Toilet Monster

* He'd be better off to use pieces of the plywood under the joints .
Screw some ledger boards to the floor joists to hold the pieces up(flush
with the top edge of the joists) , effectively doubling the thickness
under the toilet . Construction adhesive is your friend . And don't
forget to screw the flange down to the new subfloor . (20 years as a
flooring installer , did my own subfloor repairs 'cuz the carpenters
just didn't understand what was needed .)

* --

* Snag

Thats a good idea. This is a trailer house and the floors are nothing
but 3/4" particle board. No sub floor. Since I will have to replace the
vinyl, I was going to cover the whole room with 1/4" treated plywood,
but it appears they dont sell 1/4" plywoods in TREATED. Bathroom floors
are always getting wet, so I think everything should be treated. I
suppose I could put 1/2" treated plywood down over the top, but it will
then be a lot higher than the hallway by the door, and also around the
tub. (No, I'm not removing the tub). I suppose the extra 1/2" really
would not matter that much around the tub though.

Either way, after I install new vinyl, I plan to put silicone around the
walls, tub, and toilet so water can not get under.
Yes, I know to screw the flange to floor.

Whoever decided to use particle board for floors should be shot!

On Friday, December 1, 2017 at 10:00:56 PM UTC-6, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 12/1/2017 9:01 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, December 1, 2017 at 8:44:53 PM UTC-6, wrote:
I dont know if anyone actually discusses home repair on this group
since it's mostly all politics now, but if anyone happens to still
discuss the intended topic, I am looking for some advice about
replacing the floor around my toilet. The floor was made of particle
board and it's gotten bad. I need to replace it around the toilet. The
toilet is loose and has been a little crooked for a long time now.

I know how to remove the toilet, but I am not sure how to fit the
floor around the flange. I plan to use treated 3/4" plywood for the
replacement. The problem is that I have always seen the flange sits ON
TOP of the floor. The plumbing is PVC so I assume the flange is glued
to the pipe. I know that can not be separated.

So, how do I get the flange ON TOP of the floor? The only thing I can
think, is to install it in halves and shove it under the flange. I
suppose this would work, but I'd like to avoid having a seam in the
plywood right under the toilet, especially since I cant add some 2x4
framing under it, with the flange in the middle.

Is there another way to do this?
It appears that you have it figured out but you should use treated 2X4 lumber under the treated plywood halves. Something to seal the seam and any gaps in the repair might also be a good idea. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Toilet Monster

Â* He'd be better off to use pieces of the plywood under the joints ..
Screw some ledger boards to the floor joists to hold the pieces up(flush
with the top edge of the joists) , effectively doubling the thickness
under the toilet . Construction adhesive is your friend . And don't
forget to screw the flange down to the new subfloor . (20 years as a
flooring installer , did my own subfloor repairs 'cuz the carpenters
just didn't understand what was needed .)
Â* --
Â* Snag


Perhaps an explanation of "ledger boards" is called for. I had to look it up. I saw something else about "sister boards". ^_^

https://www.thefreedictionary.com/ledger+board

http://www.dictionaryofconstruction....ger-board.html

http://www.concreteconstruction.net/...er-connector_o

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/repair-...ard-43156.html

[8~{} Uncle Floor Monster

On 12/1/2017 10:14 PM, Iggy wrote:
replying to ryan_hill, Iggy wrote:
Yep, in halves or 70/30, but that should only be done to a joist that's
right
beside the flange's pipe or where your seam is perpendicular to the joists.
You're right though, best is to cut-out the flange from the pipe and
keep the
plywood seamless and to install a new flange on top of the new plywood...as
the flange must be screwed into the plywood and fully anchored.

You'll need this to achieve that preferred operation - Internal Diameter
PVC
Pipe Cutter
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inte...7516/204277491

you may also want to go with a wax-free seal to avoid future problems -
Elastic Toilet Gasket (Wax Free) with Toilet Bolts Included
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Elastic-...1002/303074999

Plus 1 for going the distance and cutting the PVC and reinstalling the
toilet flange as Iggy suggests. Also, if you want to cover the floor
with a water-resistant material, don't worry about not finding PT ply in
¼". Go with cementacious board used for bathroom walls and floor with
tile. Should work fine with your vinyl sheet goods if you're careful
about leveling out indentations where you've screwed it down.

On Friday, December 1, 2017 at 11:23:39 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 1 Dec 2017 22:00:56 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 12/1/2017 9:01 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, December 1, 2017 at 8:44:53 PM UTC-6, wrote:
I dont know if anyone actually discusses home repair on this group
since it's mostly all politics now, but if anyone happens to still
discuss the intended topic, I am looking for some advice about
replacing the floor around my toilet. The floor was made of particle
board and it's gotten bad. I need to replace it around the toilet. The
toilet is loose and has been a little crooked for a long time now.

I know how to remove the toilet, but I am not sure how to fit the
floor around the flange. I plan to use treated 3/4" plywood for the
replacement. The problem is that I have always seen the flange sits ON
TOP of the floor. The plumbing is PVC so I assume the flange is glued
to the pipe. I know that can not be separated.

So, how do I get the flange ON TOP of the floor? The only thing I can
think, is to install it in halves and shove it under the flange. I
suppose this would work, but I'd like to avoid having a seam in the
plywood right under the toilet, especially since I cant add some 2x4
framing under it, with the flange in the middle.

Is there another way to do this?
It appears that you have it figured out but you should use treated 2X4 lumber
under the treated plywood halves. Something to seal the seam and any gaps in
the repair might also be a good idea. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Toilet Monster

Â* He'd be better off to use pieces of the plywood under the joints .
Screw some ledger boards to the floor joists to hold the pieces up(flush
with the top edge of the joists) , effectively doubling the thickness
under the toilet . Construction adhesive is your friend . And don't
forget to screw the flange down to the new subfloor . (20 years as a
flooring installer , did my own subfloor repairs 'cuz the carpenters
just didn't understand what was needed .)

Â* --

Â* Snag

Thats a good idea. This is a trailer house and the floors are nothing
but 3/4" particle board. No sub floor. Since I will have to replace the
vinyl, I was going to cover the whole room with 1/4" treated plywood,
but it appears they dont sell 1/4" plywoods in TREATED. Bathroom floors
are always getting wet, so I think everything should be treated. I
suppose I could put 1/2" treated plywood down over the top, but it will
then be a lot higher than the hallway by the door, and also around the
tub. (No, I'm not removing the tub). I suppose the extra 1/2" really
would not matter that much around the tub though.

Either way, after I install new vinyl, I plan to put silicone around the
walls, tub, and toilet so water can not get under.
Yes, I know to screw the flange to floor.

Whoever decided to use particle board for floors should be shot!

I agree with the other good advice, the ideas you've been given
and your plan.
But I would not bother with siliconing around the edges, that's overkill.
I'd look into why the existing floor failed. It typically takes either
water that keeps wood constantly wet for a long time or insects to make
a floor fail. The former generally comes from leaks, not someone getting
the floor wet from stepping out of the shower, etc.

On 12/01/2017 09:41 PM, wrote:
I dont know if anyone actually discusses home repair on this group
since it's mostly all politics now, but if anyone happens to still
discuss the intended topic, I am looking for some advice about
replacing the floor around my toilet. The floor was made of particle
board and it's gotten bad. I need to replace it around the toilet. The
toilet is loose and has been a little crooked for a long time now.

I know how to remove the toilet, but I am not sure how to fit the
floor around the flange. I plan to use treated 3/4" plywood for the
replacement. The problem is that I have always seen the flange sits ON
TOP of the floor. The plumbing is PVC so I assume the flange is glued
to the pipe. I know that can not be separated.

So, how do I get the flange ON TOP of the floor? The only thing I can
think, is to install it in halves and shove it under the flange. I
suppose this would work, but I'd like to avoid having a seam in the
plywood right under the toilet, especially since I cant add some 2x4
framing under it, with the flange in the middle.

Is there another way to do this?

Do it right!

Remove the tub/shower/vanity/toilet and all particle board. Install new 1" plywood floor a seal with several coats of polyurethane.Â* Reinstall everything.

Anything less is a ****ing hackjob.

On Sat, 2 Dec 2017 10:21:45 -0500, Jack Legg Construction
wrote:

Is there another way to do this?

Do it right!

Remove the tub/shower/vanity/toilet and all particle board. Install new 1" plywood floor a seal with several coats of polyurethane.* Reinstall everything.

Anything less is a ****ing hackjob.

Bull****!

I just went through fixing a tub drain. Pipe broken into several
pieces. NOTHING was removed from the bathroom.

On Fri, 1 Dec 2017 21:03:15 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

* He'd be better off to use pieces of the plywood under the joints .
Screw some ledger boards to the floor joists to hold the pieces up(flush
with the top edge of the joists) , effectively doubling the thickness
under the toilet . Construction adhesive is your friend . And don't
forget to screw the flange down to the new subfloor . (20 years as a
flooring installer , did my own subfloor repairs 'cuz the carpenters
just didn't understand what was needed .)
* --
* Snag


Perhaps an explanation of "ledger boards" is called for. I had to look it up. I saw something else about "sister boards". ^_^

https://www.thefreedictionary.com/ledger+board

http://www.dictionaryofconstruction....ger-board.html

http://www.concreteconstruction.net/...er-connector_o

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/repair-...ard-43156.html

[8~{} Uncle Floor Monster

Ledger boards are not always for flooring, don't ya know. I cut my
stucco back to the stud frame, hung a 20' 2X10" ledger using 4" lag
bolts - then was on the way for the patio cover. Made a custom closet
storage shelves for the bride with ledger boards.

On 02-Dec-17 4:04 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 2 Dec 2017 10:21:45 -0500, Jack Legg Construction
....

Remove the tub/shower/vanity/toilet and all particle board. Install new 1" plywood floor ...
....

Bull****!

I just went through fixing a tub drain. Pipe broken into several
pieces. NOTHING was removed from the bathroom.

The issue is the particle board underlayment in wet environment; that
was a hack from the git-go; as the other poster says, the most rightest
way would be to remove it all. That said, if the rest is still in
decent shape, simply replacing that which is bad will likely be
serviceable solution.

--

On Sat, 02 Dec 2017 16:52:56 -0600, dpb wrote:

The issue is the particle board underlayment in wet environment; that
was a hack from the git-go; as the other poster says, the most rightest
way would be to remove it all. That said, if the rest is still in
decent shape, simply replacing that which is bad will likely be
serviceable solution.

OP lives in a " trailer house". Seems to me he can have a view from
above or below. I'd focus on the immediate concern under the floor
and stability of the toilet.

Photos above and under would help me help.

On 12/2/2017 5:52 PM, dpb wrote:
On 02-Dec-17 4:04 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 2 Dec 2017 10:21:45 -0500, Jack Legg Construction
...

Remove the tub/shower/vanity/toilet and all particle board. Install
new 1" plywood floor ...
...

Bull****!

I just went through fixing a tub drain. Pipe broken into several
pieces.Â* NOTHING was removed from the bathroom.

The issue is the particle board underlayment in wet environment; that
was a hack from the git-go; as the other poster says, the most rightest
way would be to remove it all.Â* That said, if the rest is still in
decent shape, simply replacing that which is bad will likely be
serviceable solution.

--

If doing a major remodel the prudent thing is to replace it all. This
is localized problem, easily repaired locally. If the rest of the room
is in good shape, no reason to do a major remodel.

On Saturday, December 2, 2017 at 5:52:58 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 02-Dec-17 4:04 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 2 Dec 2017 10:21:45 -0500, Jack Legg Construction
...

Remove the tub/shower/vanity/toilet and all particle board. Install new 1" plywood floor ...
...

Bull****!

I just went through fixing a tub drain. Pipe broken into several
pieces. NOTHING was removed from the bathroom.

The issue is the particle board underlayment in wet environment; that
was a hack from the git-go; as the other poster says, the most rightest
way would be to remove it all. That said, if the rest is still in
decent shape, simply replacing that which is bad will likely be
serviceable solution.

--

Without regard to whether you need to replace it all or not, applying
3 coats of urethane to a bathroom plywood floor is nuts. I've never
seen or heard of anyone doing that until just now.

Oren posted for all of us...



On Sat, 2 Dec 2017 10:21:45 -0500, Jack Legg Construction
wrote:

Is there another way to do this?

Do it right!

Remove the tub/shower/vanity/toilet and all particle board. Install new 1" plywood floor a seal with several coats of polyurethane.* Reinstall everything.

Anything less is a ****ing hackjob.

Bull****!

I just went through fixing a tub drain. Pipe broken into several
pieces. NOTHING was removed from the bathroom.

Do you have a follow up on this adventure?

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 4 Dec 2017 15:43:01 -0500, Tekkie® wrote:

Oren posted for all of us...

I just went through fixing a tub drain. Pipe broken into several
pieces. NOTHING was removed from the bathroom.

Do you have a follow up on this adventure?

$400.00. I never broke a sweat.

Oren posted for all of us...



On Mon, 4 Dec 2017 15:43:01 -0500, Tekkie® wrote:

Oren posted for all of us...

I just went through fixing a tub drain. Pipe broken into several
pieces. NOTHING was removed from the bathroom.

Do you have a follow up on this adventure?

$400.00. I never broke a sweat.

Did they go through the wall or how? Sounds like a bargain. That's about the
price of have a plumber show up around here...

--
Tekkie

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 15:03:37 -0500, Tekkie® wrote:

Oren posted for all of us...



On Mon, 4 Dec 2017 15:43:01 -0500, Tekkie® wrote:

Oren posted for all of us...

I just went through fixing a tub drain. Pipe broken into several
pieces. NOTHING was removed from the bathroom.

Do you have a follow up on this adventure?

$400.00. I never broke a sweat.

Did they go through the wall or how? Sounds like a bargain. That's about the
price of have a plumber show up around here...

I have the photos but to lazy to post right now.

We went through the adjacent bedroom closet wall, cut out some
drywall, fixed the pipes and repaired the wall.

....truck

http://tinypic.com/r/2cs9wdk/9

....wall

http://tinypic.com/r/2i7qviv/9

I'll post an update with the broken pipe later. It would be on topic.