In another thread we discussed a constantly problematic Zurn Wilkins 975XL
1-inch backflow-prevention valve, that doesn't actually do anything (since
it's on top of a hill).

I thought I had fixed the leaking valve - but it started leaking again, so,
I completely give up on fixing that poor design since I've taken it apart a
dozen times and there's nothing I can see that is wrong with it. Yet it
leaks.

And, even if I did fix it, it will invariably leak again soon.

I'm not a plumber, so, my only question is clarification of the two spots
that were suggested to *remove* the valve (and replace with a pipe).

Would you kindly look at this picture and advise me which location is the
removal point? (I'm confused because twisting a pipe in one direction
simply tightens it in the other direction.)

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg

On 8/11/2016 8:12 AM, Danny D. wrote:
In another thread we discussed a constantly problematic Zurn Wilkins 975XL
1-inch backflow-prevention valve, that doesn't actually do anything (since
it's on top of a hill).

I thought I had fixed the leaking valve - but it started leaking again, so,
I completely give up on fixing that poor design since I've taken it apart a
dozen times and there's nothing I can see that is wrong with it. Yet it
leaks.

And, even if I did fix it, it will invariably leak again soon.

I'm not a plumber, so, my only question is clarification of the two spots
that were suggested to *remove* the valve (and replace with a pipe).

Would you kindly look at this picture and advise me which location is the
removal point? (I'm confused because twisting a pipe in one direction
simply tightens it in the other direction.)

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg



Remove at the yellow. Once off, you can take apart at the red, insert a
solid pipe, and then reconnect at the yellow.

Figure out how a "pipe union" works!

I don't suppose you have taken seriously the obvious thing to try:
insert a filter on the inlet, to keep out the crap that is likely
causing the problem.

You call it a "poor design", but there are millions of these in use with
no real problems.

On 8/11/2016 8:31 AM, Taxed and Spent wrote:
On 8/11/2016 8:12 AM, Danny D. wrote:
In another thread we discussed a constantly problematic Zurn Wilkins
975XL
1-inch backflow-prevention valve, that doesn't actually do anything
(since
it's on top of a hill).

I thought I had fixed the leaking valve - but it started leaking
again, so,
I completely give up on fixing that poor design since I've taken it
apart a
dozen times and there's nothing I can see that is wrong with it. Yet it
leaks.

And, even if I did fix it, it will invariably leak again soon.

I'm not a plumber, so, my only question is clarification of the two spots
that were suggested to *remove* the valve (and replace with a pipe).

Would you kindly look at this picture and advise me which location is the
removal point? (I'm confused because twisting a pipe in one direction
simply tightens it in the other direction.)

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg



Remove at the yellow. Once off, you can take apart at the red, insert a
solid pipe, and then reconnect at the yellow.

Figure out how a "pipe union" works!

I don't suppose you have taken seriously the obvious thing to try:
insert a filter on the inlet, to keep out the crap that is likely
causing the problem.

You call it a "poor design", but there are millions of these in use with
no real problems.


This is a pipe union, which is at your yellow locations:

http://i.imgur.com/YHLMuL1.jpg


When you finish your repair, I imagine it will look pretty much like this:


http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/mecha...pe-Fitting.jpg

on 8/11/2016, Taxed and Spent supposed :
On 8/11/2016 8:31 AM, Taxed and Spent wrote:
On 8/11/2016 8:12 AM, Danny D. wrote:
In another thread we discussed a constantly problematic Zurn Wilkins
975XL
1-inch backflow-prevention valve, that doesn't actually do anything
(since
it's on top of a hill).

I thought I had fixed the leaking valve - but it started leaking
again, so,
I completely give up on fixing that poor design since I've taken it
apart a
dozen times and there's nothing I can see that is wrong with it. Yet it
leaks.

And, even if I did fix it, it will invariably leak again soon.

I'm not a plumber, so, my only question is clarification of the two spots
that were suggested to *remove* the valve (and replace with a pipe).

Would you kindly look at this picture and advise me which location is the
removal point? (I'm confused because twisting a pipe in one direction
simply tightens it in the other direction.)

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg



Remove at the yellow. Once off, you can take apart at the red, insert a
solid pipe, and then reconnect at the yellow.

Figure out how a "pipe union" works!

I don't suppose you have taken seriously the obvious thing to try:
insert a filter on the inlet, to keep out the crap that is likely
causing the problem.

You call it a "poor design", but there are millions of these in use with
no real problems.


This is a pipe union, which is at your yellow locations:

http://i.imgur.com/YHLMuL1.jpg


When you finish your repair, I imagine it will look pretty much like this:


http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/mecha...pe-Fitting.jpg

LOL

That reminds me of our home water filtration setup. We have two wells
and many valves and I hear submarine commands in my head when switching
them over.

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 11:46:26 -0400, FromTheRafters wrote:

That reminds me of our home water filtration setup. We have two wells
and many valves and I hear submarine commands in my head when switching
them over.

It reminded me of my pool pump setup, where I have about 17 valves and
three separate pumps and pipes going every which way!

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 16:15:23 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 11:46:26 -0400, FromTheRafters wrote:

That reminds me of our home water filtration setup. We have two wells
and many valves and I hear submarine commands in my head when switching
them over.

It reminded me of my pool pump setup, where I have about 17 valves and
three separate pumps and pipes going every which way!

I can't figure out if this valve is related to back flow to your pool?

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 08:36:39 -0700, Taxed and Spent
wrote:

When you finish your repair, I imagine it will look pretty much like this:

http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/mecha...pe-Fitting.jpg

Almost like Danny's pool pump git-up :-)

http://oi64.tinypic.com/ildt13.jpg

On 8/11/2016 9:33 AM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 08:36:39 -0700, Taxed and Spent
wrote:

When you finish your repair, I imagine it will look pretty much like this:

http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/mecha...pe-Fitting.jpg

Almost like Danny's pool pump git-up :-)

http://oi64.tinypic.com/ildt13.jpg



https://tse4.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.M...=0&w=260&h=160

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 08:36:39 -0700, Taxed and Spent
wrote in

When you finish your repair, I imagine it will look pretty much like this:


http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/mecha...pe-Fitting.jpg

LOL!
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

On Thursday, August 11, 2016 at 11:31:04 AM UTC-4, Taxed and Spent wrote:
On 8/11/2016 8:12 AM, Danny D. wrote:
In another thread we discussed a constantly problematic Zurn Wilkins 975XL
1-inch backflow-prevention valve, that doesn't actually do anything (since
it's on top of a hill).

I thought I had fixed the leaking valve - but it started leaking again, so,
I completely give up on fixing that poor design since I've taken it apart a
dozen times and there's nothing I can see that is wrong with it. Yet it
leaks.

And, even if I did fix it, it will invariably leak again soon.

I'm not a plumber, so, my only question is clarification of the two spots
that were suggested to *remove* the valve (and replace with a pipe).

Would you kindly look at this picture and advise me which location is the
removal point? (I'm confused because twisting a pipe in one direction
simply tightens it in the other direction.)

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg



Remove at the yellow. Once off, you can take apart at the red, insert a
solid pipe, and then reconnect at the yellow.

Figure out how a "pipe union" works!

I don't suppose you have taken seriously the obvious thing to try:
insert a filter on the inlet, to keep out the crap that is likely
causing the problem.

You call it a "poor design", but there are millions of these in use with
no real problems.

The backflow preventer probably isn't a poor design. But it appears to
be installed in a location where one isn't needed and will do absolutely
nothing positive. The only possible reason would be if there is some
code that someone interpreted to mean that it was required.
As D has explained it, this valve is on the output of a tank on top
of a hill that feeds water downhill to his house.

And I agree, it comes off via the unions shown by the yellow. He'd
probably realize that himself if he just unwound the tape around them.

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 08:31:00 -0700, Taxed and Spent wrote:

Remove at the yellow. Once off, you can take apart at the red, insert a
solid pipe, and then reconnect at the yellow.

Thank you for your patience, as until you said that, I hadn't realized you
remove it at the (yellow) pipe unions first, and only then, you remove it
at the (red) ball valves.

Since the pipe nipple has to be pre measured, is this the distance you'd
use (midpoint between the two shutoff ball valves)?
http://i.cubeupload.com/nwV7Rt.jpg

Figure out how a "pipe union" works!

My only experience with pipe unions were with the white plastic pool pump
pipe unions, which glue onto the incoming pipes, so reverse threading
wasn't an issue in those repairs - and exact measuring wasn't necessary
because I could always easily trim off excess pipe.

I don't suppose you have taken seriously the obvious thing to try:
insert a filter on the inlet, to keep out the crap that is likely
causing the problem.

If the valve actually did something, I might take its repair more
seriously.

As it is, it's on the top of a hill, so, the chance of water being pushed
or siphoned into it has got to be near zero.

To be clear, I have been repairing this valve for years.
I'm just sick of it.

It's a poor design.

You call it a "poor design", but there are millions of these in use with
no real problems.

Given that this 1-inch Zurn Wilkins 975XL backflow preventer requires
constant service, the support is pretty good.

Today I called 855-663-9876 and received a call back from a technical
support guy named Daniel at 805-238-7100.

He said that I should flush the valve by removing the #1 poppet assembly,
and then the #2 poppet assembly, and then to put my hand over the #1
opening and then turn the water supply on. Since my water supply is
something like 70psi, that shot water out almost 10 feet. There is no way
there is still debris stuck in there - yet - still it leaks.

Daniel told me the classic test is to see if the water leaks in both cases:
1. When there is no irrigation in use, and,
2. When the irrigation is in use.

Since my Zurn Wilkins 975XL backflow prevention valve only leaks when there
is no irrigation in use, he said to further test by:
a. Turning off any sprinklers (if any)
b. Turn both check valves on (in my case, this starts it leaking)
c. Shut off the #2 check valve - if that stops the leaking - then #2 is
fouled. (In my case, this did not stop the leaking.)

Daniel said that if the test above didn't stop the leak, then the problem
is most likely the #1 check valve, or sometimes the relief valve, both of
which I have taken apart umpteen times already.

He said in that circumstance, I should just replace the entire innards with
the three separate repair kits, which I can find on Amazon for $100:
https://www.amazon.com/Wilkins-RK114...=pd_bxgy_469_3

The required tool for removing the three seats is about $50
https://www.amazon.com/WILKINS-SEAT-...=pd_bxgy_469_2

So, for about $150, I can probably fix the dastardly thing.
But, what's frustrating is that I can't *see* anything wrong with it.
It's *not* fouled.

Note that a brand new Zurn Wilkins 1-975XL is about $250:
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Wi...ies-s/9537.htm

On Thursday, August 11, 2016 at 12:10:30 PM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 08:31:00 -0700, Taxed and Spent wrote:

Remove at the yellow. Once off, you can take apart at the red, insert a
solid pipe, and then reconnect at the yellow.

Thank you for your patience, as until you said that, I hadn't realized you
remove it at the (yellow) pipe unions first, and only then, you remove it
at the (red) ball valves.

Since the pipe nipple has to be pre measured, is this the distance you'd
use (midpoint between the two shutoff ball valves)?
http://i.cubeupload.com/nwV7Rt.jpg

Figure out how a "pipe union" works!

My only experience with pipe unions were with the white plastic pool pump
pipe unions, which glue onto the incoming pipes, so reverse threading
wasn't an issue in those repairs

Reverse threading, whatever that means, isn't an issue here either.
Unions are unions.


- and exact measuring wasn't necessary
because I could always easily trim off excess pipe.


You can do exactly the same here, trim the pipe, if you use PVC.




I don't suppose you have taken seriously the obvious thing to try:
insert a filter on the inlet, to keep out the crap that is likely
causing the problem.

If the valve actually did something, I might take its repair more
seriously.

As it is, it's on the top of a hill, so, the chance of water being pushed
or siphoned into it has got to be near zero.


+1

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 09:16:11 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:

Reverse threading, whatever that means, isn't an issue here either.

The ball valves can't be screwed off it seems to me, because if I try to
spin them off on the one side, they will spin on for the other side - which
means they won't move (unless they're reverse threaded).

At least that's how I "see" it (from my non-plumber perspective).

The main "plumbing" I've done is working on the PVC pipes he
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13343543.jpg

You can do exactly the same here, trim the pipe, if you use PVC.

Well, this is how I trim pipe at the pool:
http://i.cubeupload.com/kCyBHn.jpg

Sometimes I use this instead of a hacksaw:
http://i.cubeupload.com/7r0mkb.jpg

But I often have fitting problems when I mess up in measurements:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13335317.jpg

So I try to be doubly sure of measurements.

On Thursday, August 11, 2016 at 12:28:42 PM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 09:16:11 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:

Reverse threading, whatever that means, isn't an issue here either.

The ball valves can't be screwed off it seems to me, because if I try to
spin them off on the one side, they will spin on for the other side - which
means they won't move (unless they're reverse threaded).


They aren't reverse threaded. That's why the unions are there so
you can disassemble it for repair/replacement.



At least that's how I "see" it (from my non-plumber perspective).

The main "plumbing" I've done is working on the PVC pipes he
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13343543.jpg

You can do exactly the same here, trim the pipe, if you use PVC.

Well, this is how I trim pipe at the pool:
http://i.cubeupload.com/kCyBHn.jpg

Sometimes I use this instead of a hacksaw:
http://i.cubeupload.com/7r0mkb.jpg

But I often have fitting problems when I mess up in measurements:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13335317.jpg

So I try to be doubly sure of measurements.

You must be related to the fellow my grandfather referenced:

"I cut it three times now, but it's still too short."

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 16:28:39 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

But I often have fitting problems when I mess up in measurements:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13335317.jpg

So I try to be doubly sure of measurements.

Dry fit the pipes first.

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 08:31:00 -0700, Taxed and Spent
wrote:

On 8/11/2016 8:12 AM, Danny D. wrote:
In another thread we discussed a constantly problematic Zurn Wilkins 975XL
1-inch backflow-prevention valve, that doesn't actually do anything (since
it's on top of a hill).

I thought I had fixed the leaking valve - but it started leaking again, so,
I completely give up on fixing that poor design since I've taken it apart a
dozen times and there's nothing I can see that is wrong with it. Yet it
leaks.

And, even if I did fix it, it will invariably leak again soon.

I'm not a plumber, so, my only question is clarification of the two spots
that were suggested to *remove* the valve (and replace with a pipe).

Would you kindly look at this picture and advise me which location is the
removal point? (I'm confused because twisting a pipe in one direction
simply tightens it in the other direction.)

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg



Remove at the yellow. Once off, you can take apart at the red, insert a
solid pipe, and then reconnect at the yellow.

Figure out how a "pipe union" works!

I don't suppose you have taken seriously the obvious thing to try:
insert a filter on the inlet, to keep out the crap that is likely
causing the problem.

You call it a "poor design", but there are millions of these in use with
no real problems.

Zurn Wilins do-dads are / were made in Canada. Some fittings leaked
-- to much zinc was used when made. PEX fittings also leaked and
there were law suits.

Has the valve ever frozen?

The Tax man is correct, disconnect at the lower (yellow) and go to
work. Are the vertical pipes PVC?

WATTS make a good brand for a replacement valve.

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 09:18:40 -0700, Oren wrote:

Zurn Wilins do-dads are / were made in Canada. Some fittings leaked
-- to much zinc was used when made. PEX fittings also leaked and
there were law suits.

Has the valve ever frozen?

I don't think so. It rarely gets that cold here.
But, it "can" get to freezing.
But why did they design these pipes to be out of the ground if it can get
to freezing?

That pipe tape isn't going to protect the pipes one bit from freezing.

The Tax man is correct, disconnect at the lower (yellow) and go to
work. Are the vertical pipes PVC?

Good question.
I have no idea.
When I remove the tape, I'll know.

Is that a "special" tape?
It seems like wide printed black electrical tape.

WATTS make a good brand for a replacement valve.

I think I want a simple pipe!

I don't want to do this type of repair ever again!

On 8/11/2016 9:30 AM, Danny D. wrote:
On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 09:18:40 -0700, Oren wrote:

Zurn Wilins do-dads are / were made in Canada. Some fittings leaked
-- to much zinc was used when made. PEX fittings also leaked and
there were law suits.

Has the valve ever frozen?

I don't think so. It rarely gets that cold here.
But, it "can" get to freezing.

I think it DOES get to freezing where you are, although I forget if you
are at the top of the hill or how far down. There have been some damn
hard freezes up there in the not too distant past, and snow on the
ground for days. When did you buy your property?


But why did they design these pipes to be out of the ground if it can get
to freezing?


It is an anti-siphon device.

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 09:57:36 -0700, Taxed and Spent wrote:

I think it DOES get to freezing where you are, although I forget if you
are at the top of the hill or how far down. There have been some damn
hard freezes up there in the not too distant past, and snow on the
ground for days. When did you buy your property?

There is sometimes a thin layer of ice (about a millimeter thick?) on
puddles on the ground in the morning, so, I agree that it *can* get to
freezing.

We get snow every five years or so, and, once in a while, it sticks for
about a 1/4 inch or so, but only for about a day or at most two.

I'm a few thousand feet up, so the clouds are almost always below me, where
I can look in on airplanes coming in for a landing below me at the local
airport as they disappear into the valley fog until about noon when the
daily fog lifts (and returns again to cover the lights of the valley by
midnight).

I've been here about a decade and it has snowed maybe twice or three times
as I recall - but it's just a light dusting that almost never sticks.

The issue is that they *knew* what the weather was when they wrapped those
pipes in that black tape - so it must be designed to take it as it doesn't
really stay cold here for very long (especially not in the past two years).

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 16:30:54 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

That pipe tape isn't going to protect the pipes one bit from freezing.

Don't kid yourself. That tape serves as insulation.

I hung some old flannel shirts over valves with PVC. Built manifolds
for underground.

A few days of freezing temp and HIGH winds can break stuff.

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 16:30:54 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Are the vertical pipes PVC?

Good question.
I have no idea.

Let us know dag it, Danny When you remove the tape, post a photo

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 11:41:26 -0700, Oren wrote:

Are the vertical pipes PVC?

Good question.
I have no idea.

Let us know dag it, Danny When you remove the tape, post a photo

The 1-inch valve is brass.
The 1-inch pipes above ground to each side of the valve are all galvanized.
Below ground, a foot or so away, a used the 2-inch red-handled PVC shutoff.
Then the pipes come back above ground at 2-inch galvanized into the
pressure pump equipment in the pump house.

This picture shows the water pipe to the right going from the pump house
into the ground, and then one of two valves underground (one for the house,
the other for the irrigation system).

http://i.cubeupload.com/cMcINF.jpg

I think it's odd they go from steel to pvc to steel, but they do.
The PVC seems to be only underground though.

On 8/11/2016 9:30 AM, Danny D. wrote:


Good question.
I have no idea.
When I remove the tape, I'll know.

Is that a "special" tape?
It seems like wide printed black electrical tape.

It is Plumber's Tape. Used on underground pipes to wrap joints to avoid
corrosion. The insulation value is very small. If freezing is an issue,
wrap to whole thing with real insulation, covered to avoid water and
critter intrusion. A small amount of water flow occasionally should then
keep it from freezing.

On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 19:35:24 -0700, Bob F wrote:

It is Plumber's Tape. Used on underground pipes to wrap joints to avoid
corrosion. The insulation value is very small. If freezing is an issue,
wrap to whole thing with real insulation, covered to avoid water and
critter intrusion. A small amount of water flow occasionally should then
keep it from freezing.

I have to agree with you, after reading the package at the store for the
10mil black sticky wide pipe tape.

The package says it's for protection from corrosion.
http://i.cubeupload.com/rMhpw7.jpg

Of course, it did nothing for the corrosion on the *inside*!
http://i.cubeupload.com/Wrh9jB.jpg

On Thursday, August 11, 2016 at 11:12:40 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
In another thread we discussed a constantly problematic Zurn Wilkins 975XL
1-inch backflow-prevention valve, that doesn't actually do anything (since
it's on top of a hill).

I thought I had fixed the leaking valve - but it started leaking again, so,
I completely give up on fixing that poor design since I've taken it apart a
dozen times and there's nothing I can see that is wrong with it. Yet it
leaks.

And, even if I did fix it, it will invariably leak again soon.

I'm not a plumber, so, my only question is clarification of the two spots
that were suggested to *remove* the valve (and replace with a pipe).

Would you kindly look at this picture and advise me which location is the
removal point? (I'm confused because twisting a pipe in one direction
simply tightens it in the other direction.)

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg

What good is wrapping the upright pipes when the whole valve section
is unwrapped? And whatever R value that wrapping has, it doesn't
seem like it could do much.

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 08:12:08 -0700, Danny D. wrote:

Would you kindly look at this picture and advise me which location is the
removal point? (I'm confused because twisting a pipe in one direction
simply tightens it in the other direction.)

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg

Thanks to your helpful advice & suggestions, the deed is done!
http://i.cubeupload.com/cMcINF.jpg

On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 07:27:56 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote in

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 08:12:08 -0700, Danny D. wrote:

Would you kindly look at this picture and advise me which location is the
removal point? (I'm confused because twisting a pipe in one direction
simply tightens it in the other direction.)

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg

Thanks to your helpful advice & suggestions, the deed is done!
http://i.cubeupload.com/cMcINF.jpg

Looks good.
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

On Saturday, August 13, 2016 at 8:20:50 AM UTC-4, CRNG wrote:
On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 07:27:56 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote in

On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 08:12:08 -0700, Danny D. wrote:

Would you kindly look at this picture and advise me which location is the
removal point? (I'm confused because twisting a pipe in one direction
simply tightens it in the other direction.)

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg

Thanks to your helpful advice & suggestions, the deed is done!
http://i.cubeupload.com/cMcINF.jpg

Looks good.
--

+1

One of those guys with his butt crack showing would be proud and
he'd have charged $200+

On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 06:23:16 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:

One of those guys with his butt crack showing would be proud and
he'd have charged $200+

Thanks for adding me to honorary plumbers-crack membership!

It's a temporary setup (until I look more closely at what's really
disabling the back-pressure valve) - which allows me to analyze the valve
in my own sweet time without being super frustrated by the leaks.

Speaking of leaks, I had expected a leak when I first turned it on, but it
was water tight from the start.

The galvanized pipes are a bit crudded up inside though ...
http://i.cubeupload.com/Wrh9jB.jpg

On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 07:20:44 -0500, CRNG wrote:

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg

Thanks to your helpful advice & suggestions, the deed is done!
http://i.cubeupload.com/cMcINF.jpg

Looks good.

Again, I must thank you kind folks because you give me advice in three
great ways:

1. You tell me exactly *where* to start (e.g., at the yellow connections).
2. You give me ideas for solutions (e.g., the threaded pipe nipple).
3. That gives me the courage to start the job (I analyze more than most
because I'm actually more timid than most of you when initially tackling a
repair job).

http://i.cubeupload.com/7s3ouu.jpg

On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 15:20:43 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 07:20:44 -0500, CRNG wrote:

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg

Thanks to your helpful advice & suggestions, the deed is done!
http://i.cubeupload.com/cMcINF.jpg

Looks good.

Again, I must thank you kind folks because you give me advice in three
great ways:

1. You tell me exactly *where* to start (e.g., at the yellow connections).
2. You give me ideas for solutions (e.g., the threaded pipe nipple).
3. That gives me the courage to start the job (I analyze more than most
because I'm actually more timid than most of you when initially tackling a
repair job).

http://i.cubeupload.com/7s3ouu.jpg


I don't think you are "timid", Danny. Your pencil pushing, bean
counting skills allow you to think critically :-)

Did you turn the two ball valves (test) them? No that it matters so
much with the valve removed.

On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 08:32:19 -0700, Oren wrote:

I don't think you are "timid", Danny. Your pencil pushing, bean
counting skills allow you to think critically :-)

Well, I guess my Aspergers does kick in at times.

Did you turn the two ball valves (test) them? No that it matters so
much with the valve removed.

Yup. I cleaned the two ball valves out and tried to lubricate them with
pool grease, but the grease didn't really do much to make the downstream
valve easier to turn (or, maybe shoving grease on the inside ball wasn't
the right way to lubricate them?).

http://i.cubeupload.com/rMhpw7.jpg

On 8/13/2016 8:20 AM, Danny D. wrote:
On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 07:20:44 -0500, CRNG wrote:

http://i.cubeupload.com/tHjqRh.jpg

Thanks to your helpful advice & suggestions, the deed is done!
http://i.cubeupload.com/cMcINF.jpg

Looks good.

Again, I must thank you kind folks because you give me advice in three
great ways:

1. You tell me exactly *where* to start (e.g., at the yellow connections).
2. You give me ideas for solutions (e.g., the threaded pipe nipple).
3. That gives me the courage to start the job (I analyze more than most
because I'm actually more timid than most of you when initially tackling a
repair job).

http://i.cubeupload.com/7s3ouu.jpg



The important thing is that you did it. You never learn to fix things
until you start, and the more you do it, the better you will get.

On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 08:58:59 -0700, Bob F wrote:

The important thing is that you did it. You never learn to fix things
until you start, and the more you do it, the better you will get.

I did learn a bit, e.g., I put the teflon pipe dope on the threads but I
didn't bother with the black 10-mil tape, after asking at the hardware
store what it's for.

I also made some unexpected mistakes.

For example, I never could get the downstream pipe joint to open because
the entire assembly kept turning underground instead!

http://i.cubeupload.com/7s3ouu.jpg