Hello Everyone,

My Goodman GMT140-5D furnace will intermittently not ignite. What I mean is that the after the heat call from the t-stat, the inducer motor will come on, HSI igniter will glow for 15 seconds, but the burners will not ignite with flame. After 15 seconds and no flame, the igniter will shut off and try again, to the same result. This will continue until furnace locks out and will flash 1 continuous blink, which indicates an ignition failure fault code according to Goodman error code diagram.

This doesn't happen every time, but once every 1-2 days. It seems to mostly happen if the temperature inside the home was higher than the t-stat setting for most of the day (days are warmer in Colorado now, nights are still cold) and the furnace was not calling for heat for most of the day.

If I remove the rubber hose from the pressure switch, and blow in and out of the pressure switch, it will click, so I'm pretty sure it opens ok since I hear those clicks every time.

I've already replaced the igniter (twice), 120V/24V transformer, and the control board. I also had a an HVAC tech bend the HSI igniter bracket a little since he was sure that the igniter was too far from the gas burner and not sensing the HSI glow. That worked for a couple of days, but then the problem reappeared. I also already cleaned the flame sensor rod.

I'm thinking that the problem is either a bad gas valve or wiring (possibly from a bad grounding). I haven't replaced the gas valve yet. I'm thinking if I test the gas valve and it receives 24V when igniter glows, but doesn't open, then the problem is the gas valve. If I don't get 24V to the gas valve when the igniter glows, then the problem is the wiring/control board/ground, correct??

Can anyone tell me the proper way to check gas valve voltage? I'm thinking I should be checking continuity (ohms) by touching the gas valve terminals with the multimeter test leads (red test lead to red terminal, black lead to blue terminal) and the multimeter set the Ohms. If that's the proper way, anything higher than OL is good, correct? Or, is it better to check with multimeter set to AC voltage? Or should I remove the wires from the gas valve terminals and check with AC voltage? Again, I'm trying to see if the gas valve is actually receiving 24V from the control board...

Any other suggestions, ideas are greatly welcome...

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 1:04:18 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Hello Everyone,

My Goodman GMT140-5D furnace will intermittently not ignite. What I mean is that the after the heat call from the t-stat, the inducer motor will come on, HSI igniter will glow for 15 seconds, but the burners will not ignite with flame. After 15 seconds and no flame, the igniter will shut off and try again, to the same result. This will continue until furnace locks out and will flash 1 continuous blink, which indicates an ignition failure fault code according to Goodman error code diagram.

This doesn't happen every time, but once every 1-2 days. It seems to mostly happen if the temperature inside the home was higher than the t-stat setting for most of the day (days are warmer in Colorado now, nights are still cold) and the furnace was not calling for heat for most of the day.

If I remove the rubber hose from the pressure switch, and blow in and out of the pressure switch, it will click, so I'm pretty sure it opens ok since I hear those clicks every time.

I've already replaced the igniter (twice), 120V/24V transformer, and the control board. I also had a an HVAC tech bend the HSI igniter bracket a little since he was sure that the igniter was too far from the gas burner and not sensing the HSI glow. That worked for a couple of days, but then the problem reappeared. I also already cleaned the flame sensor rod.

I'm thinking that the problem is either a bad gas valve or wiring (possibly from a bad grounding). I haven't replaced the gas valve yet. I'm thinking if I test the gas valve and it receives 24V when igniter glows, but doesn't open, then the problem is the gas valve. If I don't get 24V to the gas valve when the igniter glows, then the problem is the wiring/control board/ground, correct??


Sounds correct to me. That is how I would diagnose it.


Can anyone tell me the proper way to check gas valve voltage? I'm thinking I should be checking continuity (ohms) by touching the gas valve terminals with the multimeter test leads (red test lead to red terminal, black lead to blue terminal) and the multimeter set the Ohms.

That would give you the resistance of the valve, but that's all. And you
don't know what the proper resistance is, etc.

If that's the proper way, anything higher than OL is good, correct? Or, is it better to check with multimeter set to AC voltage?

Check with meter set to AC, leads on the valve terminals, with the
furnace at the point the igniter is glowing.


Or should I remove the wires from the gas valve terminals and check with AC voltage? Again, I'm trying to see if the gas valve is actually receiving 24V from the control board...

Any other suggestions, ideas are greatly welcome...

On 3/30/2016 1:04 PM, wrote:
Hello Everyone,

My Goodman GMT140-5D furnace will intermittently not ignite. What I mean is that the after the heat call from the t-stat, the inducer motor will come on, HSI igniter will glow for 15 seconds, but the burners will not ignite with flame. After 15 seconds and no flame, the igniter will shut off and try again, to the same result. This will continue until furnace locks out and will flash 1 continuous blink, which indicates an ignition failure fault code according to Goodman error code diagram.

This doesn't happen every time, but once every 1-2 days. It seems to mostly happen if the temperature inside the home was higher than the t-stat setting for most of the day (days are warmer in Colorado now, nights are still cold) and the furnace was not calling for heat for most of the day.

If I remove the rubber hose from the pressure switch, and blow in and out of the pressure switch, it will click, so I'm pretty sure it opens ok since I hear those clicks every time.

I've already replaced the igniter (twice), 120V/24V transformer, and the control board. I also had a an HVAC tech bend the HSI igniter bracket a little since he was sure that the igniter was too far from the gas burner and not sensing the HSI glow. That worked for a couple of days, but then the problem reappeared. I also already cleaned the flame sensor rod.

I'm thinking that the problem is either a bad gas valve or wiring (possibly from a bad grounding). I haven't replaced the gas valve yet. I'm thinking if I test the gas valve and it receives 24V when igniter glows, but doesn't open, then the problem is the gas valve. If I don't get 24V to the gas valve when the igniter glows, then the problem is the wiring/control board/ground, correct??

Can anyone tell me the proper way to check gas valve voltage? I'm thinking I should be checking continuity (ohms) by touching the gas valve terminals with the multimeter test leads (red test lead to red terminal, black lead to blue terminal) and the multimeter set the Ohms. If that's the proper way, anything higher than OL is good, correct? Or, is it better to check with multimeter set to AC voltage? Or should I remove the wires from the gas valve terminals and check with AC voltage? Again, I'm trying to see if the gas valve is actually receiving 24V from the control board...

Any other suggestions, ideas are greatly welcome...


Most gas valve, you can touch your VOM lead tips
to the push on terminals that power the gas valve.
With call for gas, should read between 23 and 29
VAC, in that range.

You might also check for blockage of the flue
pipe, might not be enough combustion air flow.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 3/30/2016 10:04 AM, wrote:
Hello Everyone,

My Goodman GMT140-5D furnace will intermittently not ignite. What I mean is that the after the heat call from the t-stat, the inducer motor will come on, HSI igniter will glow for 15 seconds, but the burners will not ignite with flame. After 15 seconds and no flame, the igniter will shut off and try again, to the same result. This will continue until furnace locks out and will flash 1 continuous blink, which indicates an ignition failure fault code according to Goodman error code diagram.

This doesn't happen every time, but once every 1-2 days. It seems to mostly happen if the temperature inside the home was higher than the t-stat setting for most of the day (days are warmer in Colorado now, nights are still cold) and the furnace was not calling for heat for most of the day.

If I remove the rubber hose from the pressure switch, and blow in and out of the pressure switch, it will click, so I'm pretty sure it opens ok since I hear those clicks every time.

I've already replaced the igniter (twice), 120V/24V transformer, and the control board. I also had a an HVAC tech bend the HSI igniter bracket a little since he was sure that the igniter was too far from the gas burner and not sensing the HSI glow. That worked for a couple of days, but then the problem reappeared. I also already cleaned the flame sensor rod.

I'm thinking that the problem is either a bad gas valve or wiring (possibly from a bad grounding). I haven't replaced the gas valve yet. I'm thinking if I test the gas valve and it receives 24V when igniter glows, but doesn't open, then the problem is the gas valve. If I don't get 24V to the gas valve when the igniter glows, then the problem is the wiring/control board/ground, correct??

Can anyone tell me the proper way to check gas valve voltage? I'm thinking I should be checking continuity (ohms) by touching the gas valve terminals with the multimeter test leads (red test lead to red terminal, black lead to blue terminal) and the multimeter set the Ohms. If that's the proper way, anything higher than OL is good, correct? Or, is it better to check with multimeter set to AC voltage? Or should I remove the wires from the gas valve terminals and check with AC voltage? Again, I'm trying to see if the gas valve is actually receiving 24V from the control board...

Any other suggestions, ideas are greatly welcome...


Oh Hell! Way to ****ing complicated. Call the furnace guy!

On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 10:04:13 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Any other suggestions, ideas are greatly welcome...

Video shows the sequence before the valve opens:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zaT-gcEYpvs#t=459

Most Frequent Causes for Furnace starts then stops

http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Furnace/173-377-1443282-/Goodman-Furnace-starts-then-stops-GMT1405D

(if it helps)

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 1:15:12 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 1:04:18 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Hello Everyone,

My Goodman GMT140-5D furnace will intermittently not ignite. What I mean is that the after the heat call from the t-stat, the inducer motor will come on, HSI igniter will glow for 15 seconds, but the burners will not ignite with flame. After 15 seconds and no flame, the igniter will shut off and try again, to the same result. This will continue until furnace locks out and will flash 1 continuous blink, which indicates an ignition failure fault code according to Goodman error code diagram.

This doesn't happen every time, but once every 1-2 days. It seems to mostly happen if the temperature inside the home was higher than the t-stat setting for most of the day (days are warmer in Colorado now, nights are still cold) and the furnace was not calling for heat for most of the day.

If I remove the rubber hose from the pressure switch, and blow in and out of the pressure switch, it will click, so I'm pretty sure it opens ok since I hear those clicks every time.

I've already replaced the igniter (twice), 120V/24V transformer, and the control board. I also had a an HVAC tech bend the HSI igniter bracket a little since he was sure that the igniter was too far from the gas burner and not sensing the HSI glow. That worked for a couple of days, but then the problem reappeared. I also already cleaned the flame sensor rod.

I'm thinking that the problem is either a bad gas valve or wiring (possibly from a bad grounding). I haven't replaced the gas valve yet. I'm thinking if I test the gas valve and it receives 24V when igniter glows, but doesn't open, then the problem is the gas valve. If I don't get 24V to the gas valve when the igniter glows, then the problem is the wiring/control board/ground, correct??


Sounds correct to me. That is how I would diagnose it.


Can anyone tell me the proper way to check gas valve voltage? I'm thinking I should be checking continuity (ohms) by touching the gas valve terminals with the multimeter test leads (red test lead to red terminal, black lead to blue terminal) and the multimeter set the Ohms.

That would give you the resistance of the valve, but that's all. And you
don't know what the proper resistance is, etc.

If that's the proper way, anything higher than OL is good, correct? Or, is it better to check with multimeter set to AC voltage?

Check with meter set to AC, leads on the valve terminals, with the
furnace at the point the igniter is glowing.



I should have added, this assumes it's a simple one stage gas valve.

On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 10:04:13 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Can anyone tell me the proper way to check gas valve voltage?

....another video: _How to test a Gas Valve_

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMBbofusX78

Yes, this is a one-stage Goodman gas valve

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 12:06:22 PM UTC-6, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 1:15:12 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 1:04:18 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Hello Everyone,

My Goodman GMT140-5D furnace will intermittently not ignite. What I mean is that the after the heat call from the t-stat, the inducer motor will come on, HSI igniter will glow for 15 seconds, but the burners will not ignite with flame. After 15 seconds and no flame, the igniter will shut off and try again, to the same result. This will continue until furnace locks out and will flash 1 continuous blink, which indicates an ignition failure fault code according to Goodman error code diagram.

This doesn't happen every time, but once every 1-2 days. It seems to mostly happen if the temperature inside the home was higher than the t-stat setting for most of the day (days are warmer in Colorado now, nights are still cold) and the furnace was not calling for heat for most of the day.

If I remove the rubber hose from the pressure switch, and blow in and out of the pressure switch, it will click, so I'm pretty sure it opens ok since I hear those clicks every time.

I've already replaced the igniter (twice), 120V/24V transformer, and the control board. I also had a an HVAC tech bend the HSI igniter bracket a little since he was sure that the igniter was too far from the gas burner and not sensing the HSI glow. That worked for a couple of days, but then the problem reappeared. I also already cleaned the flame sensor rod.

I'm thinking that the problem is either a bad gas valve or wiring (possibly from a bad grounding). I haven't replaced the gas valve yet. I'm thinking if I test the gas valve and it receives 24V when igniter glows, but doesn't open, then the problem is the gas valve. If I don't get 24V to the gas valve when the igniter glows, then the problem is the wiring/control board/ground, correct??


Sounds correct to me. That is how I would diagnose it.


Can anyone tell me the proper way to check gas valve voltage? I'm thinking I should be checking continuity (ohms) by touching the gas valve terminals with the multimeter test leads (red test lead to red terminal, black lead to blue terminal) and the multimeter set the Ohms.

That would give you the resistance of the valve, but that's all. And you
don't know what the proper resistance is, etc.

If that's the proper way, anything higher than OL is good, correct? Or, is it better to check with multimeter set to AC voltage?

Check with meter set to AC, leads on the valve terminals, with the
furnace at the point the igniter is glowing.



I should have added, this assumes it's a simple one stage gas valve.

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 11:15:12 AM UTC-6, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 1:04:18 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Hello Everyone,

My Goodman GMT140-5D furnace will intermittently not ignite. What I mean is that the after the heat call from the t-stat, the inducer motor will come on, HSI igniter will glow for 15 seconds, but the burners will not ignite with flame. After 15 seconds and no flame, the igniter will shut off and try again, to the same result. This will continue until furnace locks out and will flash 1 continuous blink, which indicates an ignition failure fault code according to Goodman error code diagram.

This doesn't happen every time, but once every 1-2 days. It seems to mostly happen if the temperature inside the home was higher than the t-stat setting for most of the day (days are warmer in Colorado now, nights are still cold) and the furnace was not calling for heat for most of the day.

If I remove the rubber hose from the pressure switch, and blow in and out of the pressure switch, it will click, so I'm pretty sure it opens ok since I hear those clicks every time.

I've already replaced the igniter (twice), 120V/24V transformer, and the control board. I also had a an HVAC tech bend the HSI igniter bracket a little since he was sure that the igniter was too far from the gas burner and not sensing the HSI glow. That worked for a couple of days, but then the problem reappeared. I also already cleaned the flame sensor rod.

I'm thinking that the problem is either a bad gas valve or wiring (possibly from a bad grounding). I haven't replaced the gas valve yet. I'm thinking if I test the gas valve and it receives 24V when igniter glows, but doesn't open, then the problem is the gas valve. If I don't get 24V to the gas valve when the igniter glows, then the problem is the wiring/control board/ground, correct??


Sounds correct to me. That is how I would diagnose it.


Can anyone tell me the proper way to check gas valve voltage? I'm thinking I should be checking continuity (ohms) by touching the gas valve terminals with the multimeter test leads (red test lead to red terminal, black lead to blue terminal) and the multimeter set the Ohms.

That would give you the resistance of the valve, but that's all. And you
don't know what the proper resistance is, etc.

If that's the proper way, anything higher than OL is good, correct? Or, is it better to check with multimeter set to AC voltage?

Check with meter set to AC, leads on the valve terminals, with the
furnace at the point the igniter is glowing.


Or should I remove the wires from the gas valve terminals and check with AC voltage? Again, I'm trying to see if the gas valve is actually receiving 24V from the control board...

Any other suggestions, ideas are greatly welcome...

Will check this and post the results. Thank You trader_4

Oren posted for all of us...



On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 10:04:13 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Can anyone tell me the proper way to check gas valve voltage?

...another video: _How to test a Gas Valve_

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMBbofusX78

Did you find the video that shows him how to turn on the m/m?

--
Tekkie

On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 16:15:04 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:

Oren posted for all of us...



On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 10:04:13 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Can anyone tell me the proper way to check gas valve voltage?

...another video: _How to test a Gas Valve_

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMBbofusX78

Did you find the video that shows him how to turn on the m/m?

That's a real question that has been asked before.

" For a Multimeter , do I need to turn it ON or OFF?
I just bought a Certified Digital Multimeter 025-1031-2 , totally have
no ideas how to use it (especially to test my car battery)

1. First thing first , I plugged the test leads to the multimeter ,
then touched them together . The problem is that I don't see anything
on the display . I wonder if I need to turn it ON in order to see
something on the display (because I couldn't find anywhere that I can
turn it ON) . or if I plugped them in the wrong place .. 3 places "10A
, mA/BATT/V/Ohm , COM" .. for only 2 test leads "black , red" ??

2. Assume I could solve the number 1 problem , for the car battery ,
should I put it in ....Ohm (200 , 2K , 20K , 200K , 2M) ....... or ACV
(20 , 200 , 500) ........ or DCV (2 , 20 , 200 , 1000) ........ or DCA
(10A , 200mA , 20mA , 2mA) .. which one of the above I should use for
checking the car battery ?? if something shows up on a display , how
do I know if my battery is still good or not ? "

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120414010533AAvXIcE

On 3/30/2016 2:23 PM, wrote:
Yes, this is a one-stage Goodman gas valve

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 12:06:22 PM UTC-6, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 1:15:12 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
Check with meter set to AC, leads on the valve terminals, with the
furnace at the point the igniter is glowing.



I should have added, this assumes it's a simple one stage gas valve.


Be interesting to hear back from the OP. Wonder if
any Goodmans use two stage valves?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 3/30/2016 4:40 PM, Oren wrote:

That's a real question that has been asked before.

" For a Multimeter , do I need to turn it ON or OFF?
I just bought a Certified Digital Multimeter 025-1031-2 , totally have
no ideas how to use it (especially to test my car battery)

1. First thing first , I plugged the test leads to the multimeter ,
then touched them together . The problem is that I don't see anything
on the display . I wonder if I need to turn it ON in order to see
something on the display (because I couldn't find anywhere that I can
turn it ON) . or if I plugped them in the wrong place .. 3 places "10A
, mA/BATT/V/Ohm , COM" .. for only 2 test leads "black , red" ??

2. Assume I could solve the number 1 problem , for the car battery ,
should I put it in ....Ohm (200 , 2K , 20K , 200K , 2M) ....... or ACV
(20 , 200 , 500) ........ or DCV (2 , 20 , 200 , 1000) ........ or DCA
(10A , 200mA , 20mA , 2mA) .. which one of the above I should use for
checking the car battery ?? if something shows up on a display , how
do I know if my battery is still good or not ? "

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120414010533AAvXIcE


That web poster sounds like an accident waiting
to happen. Really needs some hands on instruction
from someone who knows.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 6:07:42 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 3/30/2016 2:23 PM, wrote:
Yes, this is a one-stage Goodman gas valve

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 12:06:22 PM UTC-6, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 1:15:12 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
Check with meter set to AC, leads on the valve terminals, with the
furnace at the point the igniter is glowing.



I should have added, this assumes it's a simple one stage gas valve.


Be interesting to hear back from the OP. Wonder if
any Goodmans use two stage valves?


I would expect that every furnace manufacturer has some two stage
units today. Some are continuously variable too.

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 4:07:42 PM UTC-6, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 3/30/2016 2:23 PM, wrote:
Yes, this is a one-stage Goodman gas valve

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 12:06:22 PM UTC-6, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 1:15:12 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
Check with meter set to AC, leads on the valve terminals, with the
furnace at the point the igniter is glowing.



I should have added, this assumes it's a simple one stage gas valve.
Yes, this is a one-stage Goodman gas valve

Be interesting to hear back from the OP. Wonder if
any Goodmans use two stage valves?

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.