Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

PS - Forgot to say - the Hot-Cold lever is opening and closing air to the floor, vent or windshield properly.

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
PS - Forgot to say - the Hot-Cold lever is opening and closing air to
the floor, vent or windshield properly.

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is
nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off
and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short
blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat
until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before
and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center
for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a
leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

Just because there is restricted flow does not mean it's in the core -
though it may be . So start off with the hose just cracked on a little , and
don't use any clamps so it can blow off at low pressure . I'm having a
similar blockage problem with our '99 4Runner , but it's apparently caused
by deposits in the water jackets/cooling system that have flaked off . I
used some CLR to flush the cooling system after a thorough rinse to remove
the A/F , which has helped but not cured the problem . Yours could also be
caused by a hose with a degraded lining , a flap blocking the hose - that is
often accompanied by a bulged hose .

--
Snag

Terry Coombs wrote:
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
PS - Forgot to say - the Hot-Cold lever is opening and closing air to
the floor, vent or windshield properly.

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is
nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off
and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short
blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat
until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before
and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center
for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a
leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

Just because there is restricted flow does not mean it's in the core -
though it may be . So start off with the hose just cracked on a little , and
don't use any clamps so it can blow off at low pressure . I'm having a
similar blockage problem with our '99 4Runner , but it's apparently caused
by deposits in the water jackets/cooling system that have flaked off . I
used some CLR to flush the cooling system after a thorough rinse to remove
the A/F , which has helped but not cured the problem . Yours could also be
caused by a hose with a degraded lining , a flap blocking the hose - that is
often accompanied by a bulged hose .

Do a chemical flushing proper then. Reverse flush too.

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 13:37:07 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Terry Coombs wrote:
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
PS - Forgot to say - the Hot-Cold lever is opening and closing air to
the floor, vent or windshield properly.

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is
nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off
and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short
blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat
until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before
and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center
for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a
leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

Just because there is restricted flow does not mean it's in the core -
though it may be . So start off with the hose just cracked on a little , and
don't use any clamps so it can blow off at low pressure . I'm having a
similar blockage problem with our '99 4Runner , but it's apparently caused
by deposits in the water jackets/cooling system that have flaked off . I
used some CLR to flush the cooling system after a thorough rinse to remove
the A/F , which has helped but not cured the problem . Yours could also be
caused by a hose with a degraded lining , a flap blocking the hose - that is
often accompanied by a bulged hose .

Do a chemical flushing proper then. Reverse flush too.

Using air or water, keep core pressure less that 10 psi, reverse
flush. CLR soaks for a short while. Then thoroughly flushed out.

(first to videos)

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=flush+heater+core

On 12/27/2015 3:37 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Do a chemical flushing proper then. Reverse flush too.

I've found that if I leave the ten minute rad
flush in for two days, the water pump seals
leak. And then I have to replace the water
pump.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 19:25:16 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/27/2015 3:37 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Do a chemical flushing proper then. Reverse flush too.

I've found that if I leave the ten minute rad
flush in for two days, the water pump seals
leak. And then I have to replace the water
pump.
When using ANY automotive chemical it is VERY important to follow the
instructions to the letter.
Actually not just automotive chemicals.. It is generally unsafe to use
any chemicals (or medications) in ways other than those recommended by
the manufacturer.

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 14:19:35 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
PS - Forgot to say - the Hot-Cold lever is opening and closing air to
the floor, vent or windshield properly.

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is
nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off
and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short
blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat
until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before
and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center
for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a
leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

Just because there is restricted flow does not mean it's in the core -
though it may be . So start off with the hose just cracked on a little , and
don't use any clamps so it can blow off at low pressure . I'm having a
similar blockage problem with our '99 4Runner , but it's apparently caused
by deposits in the water jackets/cooling system that have flaked off . I
used some CLR to flush the cooling system after a thorough rinse to remove
the A/F , which has helped but not cured the problem . Yours could also be
caused by a hose with a degraded lining , a flap blocking the hose - that is
often accompanied by a bulged hose .
Kinda hard to do with the quick-connect hose system Ford uses on the
heater cores - - - - No clamps.

On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 1:54:17 PM UTC-5, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

I havehad dodge caravans since 1990. picked up this procedure from a local radiator shop.

its best to notonly flush the heater core but change all the coolant.


flush the heater core with both water and air. pulse the air on and off while putting water thru the core.

it generally lasts a couple years, and while you at it replace the thermostat. it might be stuck open or running the engine cold, so the heater never really gets hot.

never ever!! never ever! use radator stop leak, unlessyou really want to replace the heater core and perhaps even the radiator

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 14:36:05 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

never ever!! never ever! use radator stop leak, unlessyou really want to replace the heater core and perhaps even the radiator

You might be amazed at a tablespoon of black pepper -- will seal a
small radiator leak.

-- Swamp Billy

bob haller wrote:
On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 1:54:17 PM UTC-5, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

I havehad dodge caravans since 1990. picked up this procedure from a local radiator shop.

its best to notonly flush the heater core but change all the coolant.


flush the heater core with both water and air. pulse the air on and off while putting water thru the core.

it generally lasts a couple years, and while you at it replace the thermostat. it might be stuck open or running the engine cold, so the heater never really gets hot.

never ever!! never ever! use radator stop leak, unlessyou really want to replace the heater core and perhaps even the radiator

Flushing is rocket science? Add chemical flush agent, drive around until
engine reaches operating temp. Wait until cools down, reverse flush
until clear water comes out. If once is not enough, repeat.
Fill with 50-50 compatible coolant. While at it replace rad. cap and
thermostat as well. Check serpentine belt too.
Periodic routine maintenance is always good idea. Neglect and laziness
creates more difficult problems.

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 15:56:43 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

bob haller wrote:
On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 1:54:17 PM UTC-5, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

I havehad dodge caravans since 1990. picked up this procedure from a local radiator shop.

its best to notonly flush the heater core but change all the coolant.


flush the heater core with both water and air. pulse the air on and off while putting water thru the core.

it generally lasts a couple years, and while you at it replace the thermostat. it might be stuck open or running the engine cold, so the heater never really gets hot.

never ever!! never ever! use radator stop leak, unlessyou really want to replace the heater core and perhaps even the radiator

Flushing is rocket science? Add chemical flush agent, drive around until
engine reaches operating temp. Wait until cools down, reverse flush
until clear water comes out. If once is not enough, repeat.
Fill with 50-50 compatible coolant. While at it replace rad. cap and
thermostat as well. Check serpentine belt too.
Periodic routine maintenance is always good idea. Neglect and laziness
creates more difficult problems.
The most important thing is to check and maintain the pH level of the
coolant - when replacing the coolant and every year. Too low a pH will
corrode the system. Too high a pH will cause scale and plug the
system.

Having the coolant filtered and the pH adjusted annually, or every 2
years will prevent almost all cooling system problems except those
caused by exterior elements - like salt, rocks, etc.

wrote:
On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 15:56:43 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

bob haller wrote:
On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 1:54:17 PM UTC-5, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

I havehad dodge caravans since 1990. picked up this procedure from a local radiator shop.

its best to notonly flush the heater core but change all the coolant.


flush the heater core with both water and air. pulse the air on and off while putting water thru the core.

it generally lasts a couple years, and while you at it replace the thermostat. it might be stuck open or running the engine cold, so the heater never really gets hot.

never ever!! never ever! use radator stop leak, unlessyou really want to replace the heater core and perhaps even the radiator

Flushing is rocket science? Add chemical flush agent, drive around until
engine reaches operating temp. Wait until cools down, reverse flush
until clear water comes out. If once is not enough, repeat.
Fill with 50-50 compatible coolant. While at it replace rad. cap and
thermostat as well. Check serpentine belt too.
Periodic routine maintenance is always good idea. Neglect and laziness
creates more difficult problems.
The most important thing is to check and maintain the pH level of the
coolant - when replacing the coolant and every year. Too low a pH will
corrode the system. Too high a pH will cause scale and plug the
system.

Having the coolant filtered and the pH adjusted annually, or every 2
years will prevent almost all cooling system problems except those
caused by exterior elements - like salt, rocks, etc.

I don't hesitate tasting it with my tongue, LOL!

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 18:31:37 -0500, wrote:

The most important thing is to check and maintain the pH level of the
coolant - when replacing the coolant and every year. Too low a pH will
corrode the system. Too high a pH will cause scale and plug the
system.

Having the coolant filtered and the pH adjusted annually, or every 2
years will prevent almost all cooling system problems except those
caused by exterior elements - like salt, rocks, etc.

http://tomdwyer.com/2010/car-information/coolant-ph/

On 12/27/2015 5:56 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Flushing is rocket science? Add chemical flush agent, drive around until
engine reaches operating temp. Wait until cools down, reverse flush
until clear water comes out. If once is not enough, repeat.
Fill with 50-50 compatible coolant. While at it replace rad. cap and
thermostat as well. Check serpentine belt too.
Periodic routine maintenance is always good idea. Neglect and laziness
creates more difficult problems.

I've found to look up the system capacity.
Put in half that volume of pure antifreeze.
If you refill with 50%, you end up with
about 20% when it mixes with the fluid that
stays in the system.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 14:36:05 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 1:54:17 PM UTC-5, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

I havehad dodge caravans since 1990. picked up this procedure from a local radiator shop.

its best to notonly flush the heater core but change all the coolant.


flush the heater core with both water and air. pulse the air on and off while putting water thru the core.

it generally lasts a couple years, and while you at it replace the thermostat. it might be stuck open or running the engine cold, so the heater never really gets hot.

never ever!! never ever! use radator stop leak, unlessyou really want to replace the heater core and perhaps even the radiator

I'll dissagree on one point. A "proper" rad sealer can be used with
almost total safety if the instructions are followed.
As an automotive professional I have used numerous "rad sealer"
products MANY times over the last 40+ years without any problems.

On 12/27/2015 12:54 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

I did the garden hose thing on a old Mercruy Comet I once had, I let
the water run through the core and into a 5 gallon bucket just to see
what and how much came out. A lot of rust, actually a whole lot of
rust. I suppose that heater core was the low part of the cooling system.
I hooked the hoses back up and the heater worked liked new after that.
Prestone makes a kit you can cut the hoses and do the same thing which
might or not be a good thing. This one is on ebay but the auto parts
stores have them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prestone-Ant...-/221978480521

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 18:34:38 -0600, My 2 Cents wrote:

On 12/27/2015 12:54 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

I did the garden hose thing on a old Mercruy Comet I once had, I let
the water run through the core and into a 5 gallon bucket just to see
what and how much came out. A lot of rust, actually a whole lot of
rust. I suppose that heater core was the low part of the cooling system.
I hooked the hoses back up and the heater worked liked new after that.
Prestone makes a kit you can cut the hoses and do the same thing which
might or not be a good thing. This one is on ebay but the auto parts
stores have them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prestone-Ant...-/221978480521
Proerly installed and used the "prestone" flushing "T" is a good
tool. At the dealership we had a cooling system flushing and coolant
recycling machines - which both used the flushing "T" as an access
point.

On 12/27/2015 04:34 PM, My 2 Cents wrote:
On 12/27/2015 12:54 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

I did the garden hose thing on a old Mercruy Comet I once had, I let
the water run through the core and into a 5 gallon bucket just to see
what and how much came out. A lot of rust, actually a whole lot of
rust. I suppose that heater core was the low part of the cooling system.
I hooked the hoses back up and the heater worked liked new after that.
Prestone makes a kit you can cut the hoses and do the same thing which
might or not be a good thing. This one is on ebay but the auto parts
stores have them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prestone-Ant...-/221978480521

The problem with those kits is that the cap on the fill fitting can
weaken or come loose and end up leaking. It's also not recommended to
flush the entire system from the heater hose; while heater core flushing
is done during a routine flush, it is done seperately from the engine
block and radiator.

Personally, I back-flush the block from the thermostat housing (with the
hose still on), and the radiator from the bottom hose. I just use a
hose gun and pulse the input so I'm not subjecting the system to the
full pressure of a typical residential water system.

Jon

On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 06:10:14 -0800, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 12/27/2015 04:34 PM, My 2 Cents wrote:
On 12/27/2015 12:54 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

I did the garden hose thing on a old Mercruy Comet I once had, I let
the water run through the core and into a 5 gallon bucket just to see
what and how much came out. A lot of rust, actually a whole lot of
rust. I suppose that heater core was the low part of the cooling system.
I hooked the hoses back up and the heater worked liked new after that.
Prestone makes a kit you can cut the hoses and do the same thing which
might or not be a good thing. This one is on ebay but the auto parts
stores have them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prestone-Ant...-/221978480521

The problem with those kits is that the cap on the fill fitting can
weaken or come loose and end up leaking. It's also not recommended to
flush the entire system from the heater hose; while heater core flushing
is done during a routine flush, it is done seperately from the engine
block and radiator.

Personally, I back-flush the block from the thermostat housing (with the
hose still on), and the radiator from the bottom hose. I just use a
hose gun and pulse the input so I'm not subjecting the system to the
full pressure of a typical residential water system.

Jon
The flushing machine does basically the same thing, with regulated
pressure being pulsed through the system. Been a long time since I
last used one so I forget all the details - and yes, sometimes the
caps/"T"s deteriorated with age, but usually only on the cheap "clone"
parts. If flushed every 2 years, as was recommended back in the day,
any mechanic worthy of the name would catch a deteriorarting "T" and
replace it before it caused a problem. Most were good for about 10
years minimum.

"Jon Danniken" wrote in message ...
On 12/27/2015 04:34 PM, My 2 Cents wrote:
On 12/27/2015 12:54 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

I did the garden hose thing on a old Mercruy Comet I once had, I let
the water run through the core and into a 5 gallon bucket just to see
what and how much came out. A lot of rust, actually a whole lot of
rust. I suppose that heater core was the low part of the cooling system.
I hooked the hoses back up and the heater worked liked new after that.
Prestone makes a kit you can cut the hoses and do the same thing which
might or not be a good thing. This one is on ebay but the auto parts
stores have them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prestone-Ant...-/221978480521

The problem with those kits is that the cap on the fill fitting can
weaken or come loose and end up leaking. It's also not recommended to
flush the entire system from the heater hose; while heater core flushing
is done during a routine flush, it is done seperately from the engine
block and radiator.

Personally, I back-flush the block from the thermostat housing (with the
hose still on), and the radiator from the bottom hose. I just use a
hose gun and pulse the input so I'm not subjecting the system to the
full pressure of a typical residential water system.

Jon

Good point about the plastic cap. I have been checking it every time I check the oil and so far it hasn't leaked. After draining the original coolant, I filled it with water with 1/4 cup of liquid laundry detergent, let the engine heat up and drove it around the block a few times, then drained it. Next 2 flushes were water only. Then used the prestone T until it ran clear.

"My 2 Cents" wrote in message ...
On 12/27/2015 12:54 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

I did the garden hose thing on a old Mercruy Comet I once had, I let
the water run through the core and into a 5 gallon bucket just to see
what and how much came out. A lot of rust, actually a whole lot of
rust. I suppose that heater core was the low part of the cooling system.
I hooked the hoses back up and the heater worked liked new after that.
Prestone makes a kit you can cut the hoses and do the same thing which
might or not be a good thing. This one is on ebay but the auto parts
stores have them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prestone-Ant...-/221978480521

That's a good kit. I replaced the radiator 18 months ago and flushed the system in the Aerostar with it fairly easily. Ended up letting the old coolant settle out overnight, then filtered thru a cloth and reused about 80% of it. Flushing only took about 15 gallons of fresh water to get completely clear. We can't dump it here but not a big deal to transfer it to gallon jugs for the recycle place.

On 12/27/2015 10:54 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:The last thing I
want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.


Why not just buy a new car and give that piece of crap to the homeless
or something?

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

---

I finally got some time to spend on this...

First I check the open/close valve that controls coolant flow valve to heater again and it is working properly. Once the engine was hot and valve open, both hoses between valve and heater core were hot.

Inside, the blower speed control is fine. Diverter control sends air to windshield and panel vents OK, but no air flows to floor. Also, with temp control set to hot, air to both windshield and panel vents is cold.

I found this vacuum control PDF for a 98 Windstar and will start again next time. I was planning to dig into this today, but rain's a coming and I have to climb up the pole here at the old Haney place and replace a few shingles that sailed off last week.

This link forwards to vacuum pages of a Windstar manual....
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/atta...acuum-pdf.122/

If that link doesn't work, search for 98 Windstar HVAC Vacuum.pdf

On Sat, 2 Jan 2016 11:57:04 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

---

I finally got some time to spend on this...

First I check the open/close valve that controls coolant flow valve to heater again and it is working properly. Once the engine was hot and valve open, both hoses between valve and heater core were hot.

Inside, the blower speed control is fine. Diverter control sends air to windshield and panel vents OK, but no air flows to floor. Also, with temp control set to hot, air to both windshield and panel vents is cold.

I found this vacuum control PDF for a 98 Windstar and will start again next time. I was planning to dig into this today, but rain's a coming and I have to climb up the pole here at the old Haney place and replace a few shingles that sailed off last week.

This link forwards to vacuum pages of a Windstar manual....
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/atta...acuum-pdf.122/

If that link doesn't work, search for 98 Windstar HVAC Vacuum.pdf
Why the heck are you using a Windstar manual to diagnosw an
Aerostar???
TOTALLY different animals.
Get the right manual, or get someone who knows what the heck is going
on to fix it!!!!!

wrote in message ...
On Sat, 2 Jan 2016 11:57:04 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

---

I finally got some time to spend on this...

First I check the open/close valve that controls coolant flow valve to heater again and it is working properly. Once the engine was hot and valve open, both hoses between valve and heater core were hot.

Inside, the blower speed control is fine. Diverter control sends air to windshield and panel vents OK, but no air flows to floor. Also, with temp control set to hot, air to both windshield and panel vents is cold.

I found this vacuum control PDF for a 98 Windstar and will start again next time. I was planning to dig into this today, but rain's a coming and I have to climb up the pole here at the old Haney place and replace a few shingles that sailed off last week.

This link forwards to vacuum pages of a Windstar manual....
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/atta...acuum-pdf.122/

If that link doesn't work, search for 98 Windstar HVAC Vacuum.pdf
Why the heck are you using a Windstar manual to diagnosw an
Aerostar???
TOTALLY different animals.
Get the right manual, or get someone who knows what the heck is going
on to fix it!!!!!

Thanks!!!! I found the info for 97 Aerostar/Ranger!!!!

http://visualbits.net/Car%20Stuff/Fo...,%20Ranger.pdf
!!!!

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 4:12:25 PM UTC-5, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
wrote in message ...
On Sat, 2 Jan 2016 11:57:04 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

---

I finally got some time to spend on this...

First I check the open/close valve that controls coolant flow valve to heater again and it is working properly. Once the engine was hot and valve open, both hoses between valve and heater core were hot.

Inside, the blower speed control is fine. Diverter control sends air to windshield and panel vents OK, but no air flows to floor. Also, with temp control set to hot, air to both windshield and panel vents is cold.

I found this vacuum control PDF for a 98 Windstar and will start again next time. I was planning to dig into this today, but rain's a coming and I have to climb up the pole here at the old Haney place and replace a few shingles that sailed off last week.

This link forwards to vacuum pages of a Windstar manual....
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/atta...acuum-pdf.122/

If that link doesn't work, search for 98 Windstar HVAC Vacuum.pdf
Why the heck are you using a Windstar manual to diagnosw an
Aerostar???
TOTALLY different animals.
Get the right manual, or get someone who knows what the heck is going
on to fix it!!!!!

Thanks!!!! I found the info for 97 Aerostar/Ranger!!!!

http://visualbits.net/Car%20Stuff/Fo...,%20Ranger.pdf
!!!!

I don't know if it is the same but the Ford Taurus had a bypass hose that was in parallel with the heater core and if the core became even slightly restricted, most of the water would flow throug the bypass hose. Flushing the core hepled for a while as well as a pair of vice grips to restrict the flow of the bypass hose. I don't know whay the design had the bypass hose.. It seemed to be an issue. Other cars don't have it. Look at the engine side of the firewall and see if there is any water connection betwen the input and output of the heater core.



M

wrote in message ...
On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 4:12:25 PM UTC-5, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
wrote in message ...
On Sat, 2 Jan 2016 11:57:04 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

---

I finally got some time to spend on this...

First I check the open/close valve that controls coolant flow valve to heater again and it is working properly. Once the engine was hot and valve open, both hoses between valve and heater core were hot.

Inside, the blower speed control is fine. Diverter control sends air to windshield and panel vents OK, but no air flows to floor. Also, with temp control set to hot, air to both windshield and panel vents is cold.

I found this vacuum control PDF for a 98 Windstar and will start again next time. I was planning to dig into this today, but rain's a coming and I have to climb up the pole here at the old Haney place and replace a few shingles that sailed off last week.

This link forwards to vacuum pages of a Windstar manual....
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/atta...acuum-pdf.122/

If that link doesn't work, search for 98 Windstar HVAC Vacuum.pdf
Why the heck are you using a Windstar manual to diagnosw an
Aerostar???
TOTALLY different animals.
Get the right manual, or get someone who knows what the heck is going
on to fix it!!!!!

Thanks!!!! I found the info for 97 Aerostar/Ranger!!!!

http://visualbits.net/Car%20Stuff/Fo...,%20Ranger.pdf
!!!!

I don't know if it is the same but the Ford Taurus had a bypass hose that was in parallel with the heater core and if the core became even slightly restricted, most of the water would flow throug the bypass hose. Flushing the core hepled for a while as well as a pair of vice grips to restrict the flow of the bypass hose. I don't know whay the design had the bypass hose. It seemed to be an issue. Other cars don't have it. Look at the engine side of the firewall and see if there is any water connection betwen the input and output of the heater core.

It's the same on this Aerostar. It might be to relieve pressure on the outlet side of the water pump until the thermostat opens, or to avoid pressuring the heater core too much (?)

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message
...

Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly
plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and
connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of
from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows
free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and
been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some
(good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core
and hose down the front seat.





Heater Core Back-Flushing

All engine cooling system flushing and back-flushing procedures must include
a separate back-flushing of the heater or air conditioning system heater
core (18476), after the flushing or back-flushing of the engine cooling
system.

The correct back-flushing procedure for heater core is as follows:

Disconnect the heater core outlet hose from the water pump fitting and
install a female garden hose-end fitting adapter in the end of the outlet
heater hose. Secure with a hose clamp.

Connect the female garden hose end of the outlet heater hose to the male end
of a water supply garden hose.

Disconnect the heater core inlet hose from the engine block fitting and
allow to drain into an appropriate container.

Check to be certain the water valve is open (no vacuum) if a water valve is
installed in the heater core inlet hose.

Turn the water supply valve on and off several times so that the surge
action helps to dislodge larger stubborn particles from the heater core
tubes. Allow full water pressure to flow for approximately five minutes.

Apply vacuum to the water valve vacuum motor, if a water valve is installed
in the heater core inlet heater hose, to ensure proper operation of the
water valve and proper closure with no water leakage. Replace the water
valve if required.

Remove the hose clamp and female garden hose end adapter from the end of the
outlet heater hose and reconnect the outlet heater hose onto the water pump
fitting.

Connect the inlet heater hose onto the engine block fitting.

Fill the cooling system. Refer to the procedure in this section.

Test the system for proper heater performance with the specified engine
cooling system conditions.

Thanks Rick.

"Rick" wrote in message ...


"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message
...

Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly
plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and
connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of
from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows
free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and
been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some
(good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core
and hose down the front seat.





Heater Core Back-Flushing

All engine cooling system flushing and back-flushing procedures must include
a separate back-flushing of the heater or air conditioning system heater
core (18476), after the flushing or back-flushing of the engine cooling
system.

The correct back-flushing procedure for heater core is as follows:

Disconnect the heater core outlet hose from the water pump fitting and
install a female garden hose-end fitting adapter in the end of the outlet
heater hose. Secure with a hose clamp.

Connect the female garden hose end of the outlet heater hose to the male end
of a water supply garden hose.

Disconnect the heater core inlet hose from the engine block fitting and
allow to drain into an appropriate container.

Check to be certain the water valve is open (no vacuum) if a water valve is
installed in the heater core inlet hose.

Turn the water supply valve on and off several times so that the surge
action helps to dislodge larger stubborn particles from the heater core
tubes. Allow full water pressure to flow for approximately five minutes.

Apply vacuum to the water valve vacuum motor, if a water valve is installed
in the heater core inlet heater hose, to ensure proper operation of the
water valve and proper closure with no water leakage. Replace the water
valve if required.

Remove the hose clamp and female garden hose end adapter from the end of the
outlet heater hose and reconnect the outlet heater hose onto the water pump
fitting.

Connect the inlet heater hose onto the engine block fitting.

Fill the cooling system. Refer to the procedure in this section.

Test the system for proper heater performance with the specified engine
cooling system conditions.