On Mon, 19 May 2014 12:18:29 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:





If I go the route of bringing a US power strip, how would I know whether
a US 120V 60Hz power strip could handle the 240V 50Hz European power?


I have done it numerous times. The bar will only run half as much
current on 240,

** Huh ?

Same current, as that rating depends on cable and conductor thicknesses.



.... Phil




No, to operate the same devices on 240 as on 120 it will only be
handling HALF the current. If the bar can handle the devices on 120,
it will have no problem, capacity-wize, on 240 because the current
will be MUCH lower.

On Mon, 19 May 2014 02:54:45 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
wrote:

Jessie Williams wrote:
"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote:

If you need an outlet strip, buy one locally.

But, a local outlet strip will just multiply the problem in
the wrong direction, won't it?

No because you won't have a 120 volt outlet strip with 240 volts on it.
It sounds ok until someone accidentaly plugs in a 120 only device without
looking.

Geoff.
The "problem" that will be multiplied is the fact that none of the
american spec dual voltage adapters will fit the euro power bar -
meaning the OP needs to buy numerous plug adapters or new power
supplies. Think about what the poor guy is trying to do before
answering the question.......

He has a mumber of chargers/adapters with parallel blade (american 15
amp) plugs that are rated for 85-250 volts, 50 /60 hz and he wants to
use them on a trip to europe. What is the easiest, simplest, cheapest
way to do it???
Buy one adapter from the local (2 round pin) 240 volt connector to the
15 amp american blade style plug, to connect a 120 volt power bar to
the 240 volt sourse, and then plug all of his existing "universal"
devices into the power bar. MOST surge protected power bars clamp at
300, 400, or 500 volts. If it is a 300 volt clamping surge protector
the 340 volt peak to peak voltage could blow the MOV. If it is the
much more common 400 volt unit, there will be no problem, and of
course the 500 volt unit will also have no problem.
Units with more sophisticated filtering than MOVs may have a problem -
but virtually all regular, cheap, power bars only have 400 volt MOV
protection.

This has been done by hundreds and thousands of travellers for
decades, without serious consequences.

On Sun, 18 May 2014 21:45:50 -0700, sms
wrote:

On 5/18/2014 10:15 AM, Jessie Williams wrote:
I plan on visiting Europe (Germany, Italy) this summer where the
Apple iPad US-to-Europe charger adapter is a whopping $40 each kit:
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB...el-adapter-kit

Since I have other electronics (e.g., Android phone, camera charger, etc.),
I wonder if I can just bring a single US-to-Europe adapter and then plug
those US chargers that can handle the dual voltage & frequency into that
US power strip?

It's easy to tell if a charger can handle the dual voltage because they
print that stuff on every charger.

But I don't see it printed or molded on *any* power strips I looked at
in the box stores.

If I go the route of bringing a US power strip, how would I know whether
a US 120V 60Hz power strip could handle the 240V 50Hz European power?

It will be much less current so it will work fine though if there's a
lighted switch it may not survive the higher voltage.

You could also just buy a universal power strip, i.e.
http://www.dx.com/p/2500w-4-outlet-ac-electric-power-bar-strip-w-individual-switch-led-indicator-ac-250v-3m-cord-103853
and put the proper plug on it.


But a waste since he does not need to be able to plug any euro plug
devices into it, and he STILL needs the plug adapter because it comes
with the American style 15 amp parallel blade plug........

On Mon, 19 May 2014 08:19:45 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
wrote:

Michael Black wrote:
You're right. But his point is that if he buys the powerbar in Europe,
then he has to get the pin adapters for each of the AC adapters he plugs
into it.

That's relatively easy. Any hardware store, electrical store, DIY store,
etc will have them for about $2-$3 each. Here in Israel, they were $5 each
until we switched from 3 rectangular pins to 2 or 3 round pins on all our
plugs and sockets. The same adaptors can be used for the old plugs to the
new sockets and everyone needed lots of them and they went down in price.


He wants to buy one set of pin adapters, for the powerbar, then the North
American power bar will take all his existing ac adapters, "solving the
problem". Since they are North American, he needs the powerbar to plug
them into, but since they are switching supplies and apparently are all
able to run on 240V, they will be fine in Europe.

It will be fine until someone sees the outlet strip and thinks it is
120 volts and plugs in a 120 volt only device. I expect that a single
person, staying in single bed rooms will be ok, but anyone traveling
in a group, sharing their hotel room, or staying in a hostel is heading
for disaster.

Geoff.
It won't be HIS disaster. Anyone stupid enough to plug their stuff
into his power bar without asking deserves what he gets (it will only
kill the device, not the owner)

On Mon, 19 May 2014 04:21:20 -0400, Fred wrote:

On 05/19/2014 12:31 AM, Wolfgang Allinger wrote:
Not likely in Europe, the hot is 220..240V to the neutral.
Not the american crap 2x 120V 180°!

Yah, European 240 is single phase and one of the experts here says American 240 is 2-phase.
Any "expert" who says it is two phase is no expert.

On Mon, 19 May 2014 06:02:09 -0700, dave
wrote:

On 05/19/2014 04:45 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"William Sommerwerck"

I have done it numerous times. The bar will only run
half as much current on 240,

** Huh ?

What he's trying to say is that when a device is switched to 240 volts, it
draws only half as much current as it does on 120V.

** It's more than mildly hysterical watching an autistic pedant pretend he
has a superior "theory of thought".

When the damn fool has none at all.





..... Phi


For the same amount of power...

Why not just take a single USB powered hub?
Because half of what he wants to run isn't 5 volt (usb)???
I have several 3 volt, 9 volt and 12 volt devices, not to mention 19 ,
24, and 31.

On Monday, May 19, 2014 10:01:50 AM UTC-4, Peter wrote:

time. I've started traveling with 1 plug adapter, 1 six foot 16 gauge

120v extension cord with an unpolarized plug at one end and an

unpolarized triple socket at the other end, along with an old fashioned

screw-in lamp socket adapter that has a 120V plug socket on each side

before terminating in another lamp socket. I'm prepared for whatever I

Has your screw-in lamp socket always worked? US lamp sockets are E26, European are E27. That's only a mm off, and I've had them work interchangeably, but I've also had them not work.

On 5/19/2014 8:27 AM, wrote:

He has a mumber of chargers/adapters with parallel blade (american 15
amp) plugs that are rated for 85-250 volts, 50 /60 hz and he wants to
use them on a trip to europe. What is the easiest, simplest, cheapest
way to do it???
Buy one adapter from the local (2 round pin) 240 volt connector to the
15 amp american blade style plug, to connect a 120 volt power bar to
the 240 volt sourse, and then plug all of his existing "universal"
devices into the power bar. MOST surge protected power bars clamp at
300, 400, or 500 volts. If it is a 300 volt clamping surge protector
the 340 volt peak to peak voltage could blow the MOV. If it is the
much more common 400 volt unit, there will be no problem, and of
course the 500 volt unit will also have no problem.
Units with more sophisticated filtering than MOVs may have a problem -
but virtually all regular, cheap, power bars only have 400 volt MOV
protection.

This has been done by hundreds and thousands of travellers for
decades, without serious consequences.

Well stated.

The bottom line is that a 120V outlet strip will work fine at 240V. The
surge protectors won't blow at 240V. If there's a neon lamp pilot light
in the switch it _might_ blow because the series resistor is too low of
a value, but no harm will come from it blowing.

Personally, I like the universal power strips that will accept all plug
types such as http://www.110220volts.com/PKT-8D.html.

On Mon, 19 May 2014 10:15:02 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

On Monday, May 19, 2014 10:01:50 AM UTC-4, Peter wrote:

time. I've started traveling with 1 plug adapter, 1 six foot 16 gauge

120v extension cord with an unpolarized plug at one end and an

unpolarized triple socket at the other end, along with an old fashioned

screw-in lamp socket adapter that has a 120V plug socket on each side

before terminating in another lamp socket. I'm prepared for whatever I

Has your screw-in lamp socket always worked? US lamp sockets are E26, European are E27. That's only a mm off, and I've had them work interchangeably, but I've also had them not work.
An e26 will always fit an e27 socket. An e27 can be a "tight fit" in
an e26 socket. In the "real world" I think we in North America often
end up with e27 sockets regardless.

"sms" wrote in message ...

The bottom line is that a 120V outlet strip will work fine at 240V.
The surge protectors won't blow at 240V.

Are you certain? The peak voltage of a 240V line is 340V. If the surge
protectors are 300V...

On 5/19/2014 3:22 PM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
"sms" wrote in message ...

The bottom line is that a 120V outlet strip will work fine at 240V.
The surge protectors won't blow at 240V.

Are you certain? The peak voltage of a 240V line is 340V. If the surge
protectors are 300V...

That's possible if they cheaped out on the surge suppressors. Most power
strips use MOVs that won't clamp until 340V.

I guess it's a better idea to buy a power strip rated at 240V since
you'll have more margin. Or buy a 120V power strip with no surge
suppressors.

On Mon, 19 May 2014 16:36:45 -0700, sms
wrote:

On 5/19/2014 3:22 PM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
"sms" wrote in message ...

The bottom line is that a 120V outlet strip will work fine at 240V.
The surge protectors won't blow at 240V.

Are you certain? The peak voltage of a 240V line is 340V. If the surge
protectors are 300V...

That's possible if they cheaped out on the surge suppressors. Most power
strips use MOVs that won't clamp until 340V.

I guess it's a better idea to buy a power strip rated at 240V since
you'll have more margin. Or buy a 120V power strip with no surge
suppressors.
There are 3 types of MOVs used in most power strips (and other surge
protectors) - 300 volt, 400 volt and 500 volt The 400 volt are by far
the most common. The 300 gives better protection on 120 volt circuits,
but the 400 is most common and adequate on 240 as well. Particularly
in the cheap Chinese stuff it means they can use the same devices
world wide.

"Phil Allison" :



If I go the route of bringing a US power strip, how would I know whether
a US 120V 60Hz power strip could handle the 240V 50Hz European power?


I have done it numerous times. The bar will only run half as much
current on 240,

** Huh ?

Same current, as that rating depends on cable and conductor thicknesses.


No,


** What I wrote is correct.

The strip will *handle" the same current so the power capacity will double.


to operate the same devices on 240 as on 120 it will only be
handling HALF the current.

** Really - the *same* devices ??

If the bar can handle the devices on 120,
it will have no problem, capacity-wize, on 240 because the current
will be MUCH lower.

** Only be true for wide range SMPS ( ie 90V to 260V) and those devices that
can be switched to 240V.



..... Phil

On Tue, 20 May 2014 11:30:05 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:



"Phil Allison" :



If I go the route of bringing a US power strip, how would I know whether
a US 120V 60Hz power strip could handle the 240V 50Hz European power?


I have done it numerous times. The bar will only run half as much
current on 240,

** Huh ?

Same current, as that rating depends on cable and conductor thicknesses.


No,


** What I wrote is correct.

The strip will *handle" the same current so the power capacity will double.


to operate the same devices on 240 as on 120 it will only be
handling HALF the current.

** Really - the *same* devices ??

If the bar can handle the devices on 120,
it will have no problem, capacity-wize, on 240 because the current
will be MUCH lower.

** Only be true for wide range SMPS ( ie 90V to 260V) and those devices that
can be switched to 240V.



.... Phil


Did you read the thread????
The OP is using switch mode auto-switching or universal power
supplies. The "same device" IS being used, and it WILL drew half the
current on 240.

So my statement is 100% correct, and I'll stand behind it.

I have done it numerous times. The bar will only run half as much
current on 240,

** Huh ?

Same current, as that rating depends on cable and conductor thicknesses.


No,


** What I wrote is correct.

The strip will *handle" the same current so the power capacity will
double.


to operate the same devices on 240 as on 120 it will only be
handling HALF the current.

** Really - the *same* devices ??

If the bar can handle the devices on 120,
it will have no problem, capacity-wize, on 240 because the current
will be MUCH lower.

** Only be true for wide range SMPS ( ie 90V to 260V) and those devices
that
can be switched to 240V.


Did you read the thread????

** Your words are the subject here.


So my statement is 100% correct,


** It is wrongly worded and misleading, for anyone except maybe a Canadian.




..... Phil

On Tue, 20 May 2014 13:30:33 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:




I have done it numerous times. The bar will only run half as much
current on 240,

** Huh ?

Same current, as that rating depends on cable and conductor thicknesses.


No,


** What I wrote is correct.

The strip will *handle" the same current so the power capacity will
double.


to operate the same devices on 240 as on 120 it will only be
handling HALF the current.

** Really - the *same* devices ??

If the bar can handle the devices on 120,
it will have no problem, capacity-wize, on 240 because the current
will be MUCH lower.

** Only be true for wide range SMPS ( ie 90V to 260V) and those devices
that
can be switched to 240V.


Did you read the thread????

** Your words are the subject here.


So my statement is 100% correct,


** It is wrongly worded and misleading, for anyone except maybe a Canadian.




.... Phil



Dumb yank takes everything out of context.
Smart Yanks and Canuks know what is being said

wrote:
No, to operate the same devices on 240 as on 120 it will only be
handling HALF the current. If the bar can handle the devices on 120,
it will have no problem, capacity-wize, on 240 because the current
will be MUCH lower.

Not always true. With a linear supply it would be true, as the different
transformer windings would both convervt the voltage down to the same
low voltage.

Switching supplies are not all the same, and some just convert the incoming
power to 400Hz (or higher) AC,run it through a transformer and reduce it
to the outgoing voltage with a regulator. If the device is plugged into
a 120 volt socket, the output voltage of the transformer is 15 volts,
if it is plugged into a 240 volt socket, it would be 30 volts.

The internal regulator would even it out.

Current draw would be the same.

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379

"Phil Allison" wrote in message ...

to operate the same devices on 240 as on 120 it will only be
handling HALF the current.

** Really - the *same* devices ??

If the bar can handle the devices on 120,
it will have no problem, capacity-wize, on 240 because
the current will be MUCH lower.

** Only be true for wide range SMPS ( ie 90V to 260V) and those
devices that can be switched to 240V.


Yes, Phil. We know that, Phil. That's what we were talking about, Phil. [Pats
Phil's pate patronizingly.]

For someone named Phil, you certainly show little love for other people.

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote in message
...
wrote:
No, to operate the same devices on 240 as on 120 it will only be
handling HALF the current. If the bar can handle the devices on 120,
it will have no problem, capacity-wize, on 240 because the current
will be MUCH lower.

Not always true. With a linear supply it would be true, as the different
transformer windings would both convert the voltage down to the same
low voltage.

Switching supplies are not all the same, and some just convert the incoming
power to 400Hz (or higher) AC, run it through a transformer and reduce it
to the outgoing voltage with a regulator. If the device is plugged into
a 120 volt socket, the output voltage of the transformer is 15 volts,
if it is plugged into a 240 volt socket, it would be 30 volts.

The internal regulator would even it out. Current draw would be the same.


I don't think that's correct. To (possibly over-) simplify things, at higher
line voltages, the pulse width will be narrower, and less charge will be drawn
from the filter caps. Ergo, less current will be pulled from the line.

On Tue, 20 May 2014 06:09:46 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
wrote:

wrote:
No, to operate the same devices on 240 as on 120 it will only be
handling HALF the current. If the bar can handle the devices on 120,
it will have no problem, capacity-wize, on 240 because the current
will be MUCH lower.

Not always true. With a linear supply it would be true, as the different
transformer windings would both convervt the voltage down to the same
low voltage.

Switching supplies are not all the same, and some just convert the incoming
power to 400Hz (or higher) AC,run it through a transformer and reduce it
to the outgoing voltage with a regulator. If the device is plugged into
a 120 volt socket, the output voltage of the transformer is 15 volts,
if it is plugged into a 240 volt socket, it would be 30 volts.

The internal regulator would even it out.

Current draw would be the same.

Geoff.
Reguardless - they will never draw MORE current from 240 than they
would on 120 - so current capacity is never going to be an issue - and
MOST will draw less current on 240. One of the advantages of switch
mode power supplies is higher efficiency.

On Tue, 20 May 2014 07:32:03 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote in message
...
wrote:
No, to operate the same devices on 240 as on 120 it will only be
handling HALF the current. If the bar can handle the devices on 120,
it will have no problem, capacity-wize, on 240 because the current
will be MUCH lower.

Not always true. With a linear supply it would be true, as the different
transformer windings would both convert the voltage down to the same
low voltage.

Switching supplies are not all the same, and some just convert the incoming
power to 400Hz (or higher) AC, run it through a transformer and reduce it
to the outgoing voltage with a regulator. If the device is plugged into
a 120 volt socket, the output voltage of the transformer is 15 volts,
if it is plugged into a 240 volt socket, it would be 30 volts.

The internal regulator would even it out. Current draw would be the same.


I don't think that's correct. To (possibly over-) simplify things, at higher
line voltages, the pulse width will be narrower, and less charge will be drawn
from the filter caps. Ergo, less current will be pulled from the line.
Don't confuse Phil with facts - his mind, such as it is, is already
made up.

On Monday, May 19, 2014 6:01:49 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 19 May 2014 10:15:02 -0700 (PDT), TimR

wrote:



On Monday, May 19, 2014 10:01:50 AM UTC-4, Peter wrote:



time. I've started traveling with 1 plug adapter, 1 six foot 16 gauge



120v extension cord with an unpolarized plug at one end and an



unpolarized triple socket at the other end, along with an old fashioned



screw-in lamp socket adapter that has a 120V plug socket on each side



before terminating in another lamp socket. I'm prepared for whatever I



Has your screw-in lamp socket always worked? US lamp sockets are E26, European are E27. That's only a mm off, and I've had them work interchangeably, but I've also had them not work.

An e26 will always fit an e27 socket. An e27 can be a "tight fit" in

an e26 socket. In the "real world" I think we in North America often

end up with e27 sockets regardless.

I asked out of experience. I have an E27 fixture, a German pole lamp, that will not work with some brands of E26 CFL. They don't seem to make enough contact. Other brands do work. These same CFLs start fine in an American pole lamp.

On 5/19/2014 1:15 PM, TimR wrote:
On Monday, May 19, 2014 10:01:50 AM UTC-4, Peter wrote:

time. I've started traveling with 1 plug adapter, 1 six foot 16
gauge

120v extension cord with an unpolarized plug at one end and an

unpolarized triple socket at the other end, along with an old
fashioned

screw-in lamp socket adapter that has a 120V plug socket on each
side

before terminating in another lamp socket. I'm prepared for
whatever I

Has your screw-in lamp socket always worked? US lamp sockets are
E26, European are E27. That's only a mm off, and I've had them work
interchangeably, but I've also had them not work.


Didn't know that and thanks for the info. Although I carry the lamp
socket adapter when I travel to Europe, I've only used it in U.S.
bargain motels that sometimes provide few if any convenient sockets.
However, if I need to use it in Europe and it doesn't screw into the
lamp socket, I'll know why. I have used the single plug adapter -
extension cord connection many times in Europe with no problem at all
for camera battery chargers, tablet chargers and dual voltage electric
razors (the latter when the hotel room's razor outlet was non-functional).

On 18/05/2014 21:51, Jessie Williams wrote:
Yes. That's exactly what I am asking about.
The question is how I can be sure the US power strip can handle 240 volts.

Open it up and check there is nothing that might not like 240V in it.

--

Brian Gregory (in the UK).
To email me please remove all the letter vee from my email address.

On 20/05/2014 07:09, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
Switching supplies are not all the same, and some just convert the incoming
power to 400Hz (or higher) AC,run it through a transformer and reduce it
to the outgoing voltage with a regulator. If the device is plugged into
a 120 volt socket, the output voltage of the transformer is 15 volts,
if it is plugged into a 240 volt socket, it would be 30 volts.

That would be really dumb.
The power supply would run really hot on 240V and nice and cool on 120V.

In fact the converter you describe that generates the higher frequency
AC will be adjusting itself so that the transformer output is more or
less the same voltage no matter what the incoming mains voltage is.

--

Brian Gregory (in the UK).
To email me please remove all the letter vee from my email address.

"Brian Gregory"

Yes. That's exactly what I am asking about.
The question is how I can be sure the US power strip can handle 240
volts.

Open it up and check there is nothing that might not like 240V in it.


** The OP simply has to make sure any varistors are rated at 275VAC,
suppression caps have the same voltage rating and are marked class X1 or
2 - oh, and neon lights must have series resistors of 180 kohms or higher.

Varistors must only be wired from active to neutral, never to ground.

If in doubt, just remove the lot with side cutters.

Dead simple.



..... Phil

On 5/22/2014 6:13 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Brian Gregory"

Yes. That's exactly what I am asking about.
The question is how I can be sure the US power strip can handle 240
volts.

Open it up and check there is nothing that might not like 240V in it.


** The OP simply has to make sure any varistors are rated at 275VAC,
suppression caps have the same voltage rating and are marked class X1 or
2 - oh, and neon lights must have series resistors of 180 kohms or higher.

Varistors must only be wired from active to neutral, never to ground.

If in doubt, just remove the lot with side cutters.

Dead simple.



.... Phil

What's dead simple is that you should NEVER used stuff rated for a max
of 120v
on higher than 120V...PERIOD.
Emphasis on the DEAD.
Whether it works is irrelevant.
It's ill-advised, dangerous, prone to fire, illegal,
probably voids your insurance...and then, there's that dead part.

It's not a self-regulated process that rids the world of idiots.
When you burn the place down, your reckless incompetence seriously
affects others.
Get properly rated equipment...PERIOD!!

Take it from someone who was completely burned out by the idiot
in the adjacent apartment.

On 5/22/2014 6:13 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Brian Gregory"

Yes. That's exactly what I am asking about.
The question is how I can be sure the US power strip can handle 240
volts.

Open it up and check there is nothing that might not like 240V in it.


** The OP simply has to make sure any varistors are rated at 275VAC,
suppression caps have the same voltage rating and are marked class X1 or
2 - oh, and neon lights must have series resistors of 180 kohms or higher.

Varistors must only be wired from active to neutral, never to ground.

If in doubt, just remove the lot with side cutters.

Dead simple.

All true, but that's a lot of work to avoid buying a 240V power strip. A
lot of the lower cost strips can't be easily opened either.

I like this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TXRTNG which gives you
three U.S. outlets and 2 USB ports that provide a total of 1.5A. Enough
current to charge a tablet and a phone though not enough to be using the
device at the same time as it's being charged. Very compact. Still need
a plug adapter though.

On 5/22/2014 3:24 PM, mike wrote:

snip

What's dead simple is that you should NEVER used stuff rated for a max
of 120v
on higher than 120V...PERIOD.
Emphasis on the DEAD.
Whether it works is irrelevant.
It's ill-advised, dangerous, prone to fire, illegal,

It's actually none of those.

probably voids your insurance...and then, there's that dead part.

It's not a self-regulated process that rids the world of idiots.
When you burn the place down, your reckless incompetence seriously
affects others.
Get properly rated equipment...PERIOD!!

A "properly rated" 240V power strip would have thinner conductors. It
would be no more dangerous because it would also have a lower amperage
circuit breaker.

Take it from someone who was completely burned out by the idiot
in the adjacent apartment.

Whatever caused the fire it was certainly not someone using a 120V power
strip on 240V.

As many others have pointed out, the power strip is actually safer on
240V because the current is much lower for the same wattage.

However the downside is that it would be possible to overload the 240V
circuit, which is probably not a 15A circuit, and the circuit breaker in
the power strip would not blow (but the circuit breaker in the breaker
panel would trip).

On 5/22/2014 4:23 PM, sms wrote:
On 5/22/2014 3:24 PM, mike wrote:

snip

What's dead simple is that you should NEVER used stuff rated for a max
of 120v
on higher than 120V...PERIOD.
Emphasis on the DEAD.
Whether it works is irrelevant.
It's ill-advised, dangerous, prone to fire, illegal,

It's actually none of those.

probably voids your insurance...and then, there's that dead part.

It's not a self-regulated process that rids the world of idiots.
When you burn the place down, your reckless incompetence seriously
affects others.
Get properly rated equipment...PERIOD!!

A "properly rated" 240V power strip would have thinner conductors. It
would be no more dangerous because it would also have a lower amperage
circuit breaker.

Take it from someone who was completely burned out by the idiot
in the adjacent apartment.

Whatever caused the fire it was certainly not someone using a 120V power
strip on 240V.
Must be nice to know everything for CERTAIN.

As many others have pointed out, the power strip is actually safer on
240V because the current is much lower for the same wattage.

However the downside is that it would be possible to overload the 240V
circuit, which is probably not a 15A circuit, and the circuit breaker in
the power strip would not blow (but the circuit breaker in the breaker
panel would trip).
It's people like you, making grand declarations based on PART of the
problem that cause so much grief in the world.
There are many people who will actually believe that you told them
it was safe.
The other issue is that the internet is forever. Years from now,
some newbie does a google search and sees your missive out of context.

What is it about doubling the voltage on a system and routing it to
sockets that invite you to plug in devices rated at half the voltage
do you think is a good idea?

Think back about all the screwups in your past.
The things you thought about and carefully analyzed are usually NOT
the things that caused you grief.
It's the things you didn't consider that cause most of the problem.
Must be nice to be all-knowing.

Sorry about the tone. I get upset when people advise stupid things
that might result in harm to others.

"mike"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Brian Gregory"

Yes. That's exactly what I am asking about.
The question is how I can be sure the US power strip can handle 240
volts.

Open it up and check there is nothing that might not like 240V in it.


** The OP simply has to make sure any varistors are rated at 275VAC,
suppression caps have the same voltage rating and are marked class X1 or
2 - oh, and neon lights must have series resistors of 180 kohms or
higher.

Varistors must only be wired from active to neutral, never to ground.

If in doubt, just remove the lot with side cutters.

Dead simple.



What's dead simple is that you should NEVER used stuff rated for a max of
120v on higher than 120V...PERIOD.


** My post was basically facetious - pointing out that one has to be expert
in identifying components like varistors and X1 caps in order to " .. check
there is nothing that might not like 240V in it ".


Emphasis on the DEAD.
Whether it works is irrelevant.
It's ill-advised, dangerous, prone to fire, illegal,
probably voids your insurance...and then, there's that dead part.

** Well, all the parts I mentioned would fail quickly if not rated for 240V
operation.

There might be a loud bang, but definitely no fire hazard.


Take it from someone who was completely burned out by the idiot
in the adjacent apartment.

** That must have been very distressing.



..... Phil

On Thu, 22 May 2014 16:15:01 -0700, sms
wrote:

On 5/22/2014 6:13 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Brian Gregory"

Yes. That's exactly what I am asking about.
The question is how I can be sure the US power strip can handle 240
volts.

Open it up and check there is nothing that might not like 240V in it.


** The OP simply has to make sure any varistors are rated at 275VAC,
suppression caps have the same voltage rating and are marked class X1 or
2 - oh, and neon lights must have series resistors of 180 kohms or higher.

Varistors must only be wired from active to neutral, never to ground.

If in doubt, just remove the lot with side cutters.

Dead simple.

All true, but that's a lot of work to avoid buying a 240V power strip. A
lot of the lower cost strips can't be easily opened either.

I like this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TXRTNG which gives you
three U.S. outlets and 2 USB ports that provide a total of 1.5A. Enough
current to charge a tablet and a phone though not enough to be using the
device at the same time as it's being charged. Very compact. Still need
a plug adapter though.
And exactly where does it state it is useable for 240 volts? The USB
port power supply may very well NOT be rated for 240, to start with.

On Thu, 22 May 2014 17:33:58 -0700, mike wrote:

On 5/22/2014 4:23 PM, sms wrote:
On 5/22/2014 3:24 PM, mike wrote:

snip

What's dead simple is that you should NEVER used stuff rated for a max
of 120v
on higher than 120V...PERIOD.
Emphasis on the DEAD.
Whether it works is irrelevant.
It's ill-advised, dangerous, prone to fire, illegal,

It's actually none of those.

probably voids your insurance...and then, there's that dead part.

It's not a self-regulated process that rids the world of idiots.
When you burn the place down, your reckless incompetence seriously
affects others.
Get properly rated equipment...PERIOD!!

A "properly rated" 240V power strip would have thinner conductors. It
would be no more dangerous because it would also have a lower amperage
circuit breaker.

Take it from someone who was completely burned out by the idiot
in the adjacent apartment.

Whatever caused the fire it was certainly not someone using a 120V power
strip on 240V.
Must be nice to know everything for CERTAIN.

As many others have pointed out, the power strip is actually safer on
240V because the current is much lower for the same wattage.

However the downside is that it would be possible to overload the 240V
circuit, which is probably not a 15A circuit, and the circuit breaker in
the power strip would not blow (but the circuit breaker in the breaker
panel would trip).
It's people like you, making grand declarations based on PART of the
problem that cause so much grief in the world.
There are many people who will actually believe that you told them
it was safe.
The other issue is that the internet is forever. Years from now,
some newbie does a google search and sees your missive out of context.

What is it about doubling the voltage on a system and routing it to
sockets that invite you to plug in devices rated at half the voltage
do you think is a good idea?

Think back about all the screwups in your past.
The things you thought about and carefully analyzed are usually NOT
the things that caused you grief.
It's the things you didn't consider that cause most of the problem.
Must be nice to be all-knowing.

Sorry about the tone. I get upset when people advise stupid things
that might result in harm to others.
Every electrical plug on board Carnival's ships (and a lot more)
will accept both 240 euro (round pin), Japanese 240 (parallel blade)
and American 120 volt parallel blade plugs.. They are labeled 240
volts only.

So do the same with the power bar.
It is NOT a safety issue unless it becomes a stupidity issue.

On 5/22/2014 6:54 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 May 2014 17:33:58 -0700, mike wrote:

On 5/22/2014 4:23 PM, sms wrote:
On 5/22/2014 3:24 PM, mike wrote:

snip

What's dead simple is that you should NEVER used stuff rated for a max
of 120v
on higher than 120V...PERIOD.
Emphasis on the DEAD.
Whether it works is irrelevant.
It's ill-advised, dangerous, prone to fire, illegal,

It's actually none of those.

probably voids your insurance...and then, there's that dead part.

It's not a self-regulated process that rids the world of idiots.
When you burn the place down, your reckless incompetence seriously
affects others.
Get properly rated equipment...PERIOD!!

A "properly rated" 240V power strip would have thinner conductors. It
would be no more dangerous because it would also have a lower amperage
circuit breaker.

Take it from someone who was completely burned out by the idiot
in the adjacent apartment.

Whatever caused the fire it was certainly not someone using a 120V power
strip on 240V.
Must be nice to know everything for CERTAIN.

As many others have pointed out, the power strip is actually safer on
240V because the current is much lower for the same wattage.

However the downside is that it would be possible to overload the 240V
circuit, which is probably not a 15A circuit, and the circuit breaker in
the power strip would not blow (but the circuit breaker in the breaker
panel would trip).
It's people like you, making grand declarations based on PART of the
problem that cause so much grief in the world.
There are many people who will actually believe that you told them
it was safe.
The other issue is that the internet is forever. Years from now,
some newbie does a google search and sees your missive out of context.

What is it about doubling the voltage on a system and routing it to
sockets that invite you to plug in devices rated at half the voltage
do you think is a good idea?

Think back about all the screwups in your past.
The things you thought about and carefully analyzed are usually NOT
the things that caused you grief.
It's the things you didn't consider that cause most of the problem.
Must be nice to be all-knowing.

Sorry about the tone. I get upset when people advise stupid things
that might result in harm to others.
Every electrical plug on board Carnival's ships (and a lot more)
will accept both 240 euro (round pin), Japanese 240 (parallel blade)
and American 120 volt parallel blade plugs.. They are labeled 240
volts only.

So do the same with the power bar.
It is NOT a safety issue unless it becomes a stupidity issue.


Virtually EVERY safety regulation is about preventing stupid people
from doing stupid things that might hurt themselves or others.

If you need something done right, look no further than Carnival Cruise
ships.

Next time you get pulled over for speeding, explain to the cop
that the other guy was speeding too. See how far that gets you.

Just because someone else does it, doesn't make it a wise thing to
do.

The attitude expressed here is common. I've had to beat
it out of virtually every engineer I've trained.

mike wrote:

The attitude expressed here is common. I've had to beat
it out of virtually every engineer I've trained.


How hard is it to teach someone to push a broom?


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wrote:

Dumb yank takes everything out of context.
Smart Yanks and Canuks know what is being said

Phil is in Oz.


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