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On Friday, January 24, 2014 9:20:54 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 10:12:21 PM UTC-5, wrote:

When you charge to do a job, you do the job to the standard of the




time - making use of the technology available to do the job right. A




home ispector can get a thermal imaging camera for less than $600 - or




a better one for the $1000 range.






The one we use at work cost $3500.



At times of the year when the inside and outside temperature vary greatly, like the dead of winter or dog day summer, they are very useful. But you have to inspect all year round.



If you need to know infiltration, you have to do a blower test anyway.


Just had another thought.

We also have a small handheld smoke generator. I don't know exactly how it works, but it has a battery, a little glycol reservoir, and a squeeze bulb.. It produces a small puff of smoke that is very effective at showing air currents. With a little knowledge of where your air leaks probably are, and a smoke source, you can start plugging your worst leaks first. They're likely around weatherstripping on doors and windows, etc.

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It's not easy to find a cheap smoke generator. They start at about $600.

But here's one from an educational source similar to what we use:

http://www.sciencebobstore.com/produ...Generator.html
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On 1/22/2014 10:56 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/22/2014 11:40 AM, RobertMacy wrote:

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and heat loss?


On a calm day, no wind. Fill your trailer with helium. Walk around
the outside with a helium detector. You'll be surprised at all the
'vents'.


Not sure about the helium detector. But, I do have a combustible gas
detector, for my HVAC work. would natural gas be better, or propane?


Keep dumbass cigaret smokers away and you will be safe as long as no
pilot lights are lit. ^_^

TDD
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On 1/22/2014 10:56 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/22/2014 11:40 AM, RobertMacy wrote:

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and heat loss?


On a calm day, no wind. Fill your trailer with helium. Walk around
the outside with a helium detector. You'll be surprised at all the
'vents'.


Not sure about the helium detector. But, I do have a combustible gas
detector, for my HVAC work. would natural gas be better, or propane?


Rent an infrared camera so you can see all the heat links. ^_^

TDD
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On 1/22/2014 8:11 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


Johnstone sells smoke bombs that are used by HVAC guys to check for
leaks. I have some somewhere and they're lot's of fun to play with. ^_^

TDD


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On 1/23/2014 9:21 AM, jamesgang wrote:
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:37:08 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon
wrote:
On 1/22/2014 10:42 PM, TimR wrote:

Get one of those infrared thermometers.




I'll bet you'll see a lot of leakage without adding gases to
your environment.




The fact that you are adding moisture constantly proves you have
a huge amount of infiltration (outside air coming in through
gaps).




You'd be better off finding and sealing them, then you can add
much less water, maybe none.




When we lived in Germany, our house was so tight that with just
normal water from breathing, cooking, and the occasional shower,
the house would fill with mold if we didn't open windows twice a
day. There is plenty of internal humidity generation if you
don't lose it all to a leaky house.




I tried walking around with IR thermometer, and check

various points. I probably don't have the technique

right. What I found was that the outside skin of the

trailer was all the same temp, and I couldn't find

much variation indoors. Some power companies offer

infrared thermographs, but I've not gone that far

to call em out.

Christopher A. Young .


In the old days you would get a roll of 35mm infrared film and shoot
some pics of the outside of your house on a cold day. I suppose
there are infrared digital cameras these days.


You can rent an infrared video cameras. ^_^

TDD
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On 1/23/2014 9:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 21:34:04 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/23/2014 8:05 PM,
wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 18:24:48 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/23/2014 5:37 PM,
wrote:
Any home inspector worth his spit has one.

If a home ispector does not have one he's a fraud.

Judgemental, yet? Let he who hath not misspelled a word cast
the first flame.
A home inspector without an IR camera cannot tell you if there
is moisture problems in a wall, settled or missing insulation,
and a host of other problems that you are paying him to find -
that YOU cannot find with the naked eye. And he cannot either.

Call it judgemental if you want - a home inspector without an IR
camera can NOT do the job you are hiring him for, and calling
himself a "home inspector" is stretching the truth. Definition of
fraud.

I rest my case.


Some how, people inspected homes before IR cameras came out. I
remain skeptical about your judgement.

IR cameras have been around AT LEAST as long as the "home inspector"
"profession"

When you charge to do a job, you do the job to the standard of the
time - making use of the technology available to do the job right. A
home ispector can get a thermal imaging camera for less than $600 -
or a better one for the $1000 range. Not having one puts you in the
bottom of the stack of a somewhat shady business - to the most part
unregulated and untrained charlatons.

If I'm hiring a home inspector, he WILL have the equipment to do the
job. And he WILL have building construction experience and/or
construction technology education.


There are only a few master home inspectors in the whole state of
Alabamastan and I talk to one of them all the time on a call in radio
talk show. ^_^

TDD
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On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 10:22:49 -0500, "David L. Martel"
wrote:


From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer.


No, that's not what it means. Gas volume is very temperature dependent.
This is a complete red herring.
Gas volume isn's additive. If you add 10 gal. of N2,STP and 10 gal. of
o2 you don't get 20 gal. of gas, STP.


Actually, it is.

PV=nRT

If P and T are constant (STP), V is proportional to n.

Humid air is lighter than dry air, since there are the same number (n)
of molecules and H2O (18) is lighter than N2 (28).

Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.


All olf the vapor dissolves into the room air.From there it travels
throughout your trailer finding places to hide. Your furniture probably
absorbs a lot of the water.
The air in your home does replenish from outdoors, so water goes there,
as well.


Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?


If you make your house gas tight you will eventually asphysiate due to
lack of Oxygen.

Dave M.


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On 1/24/2014 9:18 AM, TimR wrote:
On Friday, January 24, 2014 7:35:23 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Now that I've stapled up some cardboard,

wonder if I ought to staple up some sheet

plastic as vapor barrier?



Nah. Just duct tape over it. You live in a trailer, right?

Yes, trailer. Duct tape is so chic.

Being a real man (R), I'd use camo colored
gorilla tape.

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On 1/24/2014 9:23 AM, TimR wrote:

We also have a small handheld smoke generator. I don't know exactly how it works, but it has a battery, a little glycol reservoir, and a squeeze bulb.. It produces a small puff of smoke that is very effective at showing air currents. With a little knowledge of where your air leaks probably are, and a smoke source, you can start plugging your worst leaks first. They're likely around weatherstripping on doors and windows, etc.


Glad someone here's not just full of hot
air. And not just blowing smoke.

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On 1/24/2014 11:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

Johnstone sells smoke bombs that are used by HVAC guys to check for
leaks. I have some somewhere and they're lot's of fun to play with. ^_^

TDD


I may look into that. Alternative is a tin can
full of hay and straw. Light that up.

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On Friday, January 24, 2014 1:03:19 PM UTC-5, wrote:
PV=nRT



If P and T are constant (STP), V is proportional to n.


Yup. In an ideal gas. (you've just posted the ideal gas equation)

But water vapor isn't an ideal gas. That equation doesn't apply.
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On 1/24/2014 6:23 AM, TimR wrote:



If you need to know infiltration, you have to do a blower test anyway.


On a calm day, turn on the exhaust vents for the stove and bathroom.
My stove vent can pull a 5 Pa vacuum at the other end of the house.
That's only 10% of a blower test, but can be useful.

Just had another thought.

We also have a small handheld smoke generator. I don't know exactly how it works, but it has a battery, a little glycol reservoir, and a squeeze bulb. It produces a small puff of smoke that is very effective at showing air currents. With a little knowledge of where your air leaks probably are, and a smoke source, you can start plugging your worst leaks first. They're likely around weatherstripping on doors and windows, etc.

You're overthinking it.
Incense sticks work fine.
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On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 05:10:41 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/23/2014 8:05 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 18:24:48 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/23/2014 5:37 PM,
wrote:
Any home inspector worth his spit has one.

If a home ispector does not have one he's a fraud.

Judgemental, yet? Let he who hath not
misspelled a word cast the first flame.
A home inspector without an IR camera cannot tell you if there is
moisture problems in a wall, settled or missing insulation, and a
host of other problems that you are paying him to find - that YOU
cannot find with the naked eye. And he cannot either.

Call it judgemental if you want - a home inspector without an IR
camera can NOT do the job you are hiring him for, and calling himself
a "home inspector" is stretching the truth.
Definition of fraud.

I rest my case.


Some how, people inspected homes before IR cameras
came out. I remain skeptical about your judgement.


Looking at ir is going to depend on location and time of year. Best to have
high differential temps. I can do most of that with a cheap HF gun.

Greg

Your "cheap HF gun" is going to show humidity from sweating pipes
behind drywall? Or damp insulation below a leaking window?

I have one of the non-contact thermometers with the 3 colour led to
tell if the targetted area is warmer or cooler than the reference. It
is handy - but not nearly sensitive enough.

A good thermal imaging camera will even show you poor wiring
connections or overloaded wires inside a wall
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On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 06:18:33 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Friday, January 24, 2014 7:35:23 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Now that I've stapled up some cardboard,

wonder if I ought to staple up some sheet

plastic as vapor barrier?



Nah. Just duct tape over it. You live in a trailer, right?

Better yet, the red super tape they sell for sealing vapour barrier
plastic.


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On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 06:29:05 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

It's not easy to find a cheap smoke generator. They start at about $600.

But here's one from an educational source similar to what we use:

http://www.sciencebobstore.com/produ...Generator.html

The little "smoke candles" work well too. For just finding
leakage/drafts a cigarette will do.
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On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 13:36:00 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Friday, January 24, 2014 1:03:19 PM UTC-5, wrote:
PV=nRT



If P and T are constant (STP), V is proportional to n.


Yup. In an ideal gas. (you've just posted the ideal gas equation)

But water vapor isn't an ideal gas. That equation doesn't apply.


You're wrong. Outside of phase changes, it's as close as any other.
Moist air is lighter than dry air (the part you snipped) because all
gasses, or mixtures, follow the ideal gas law very closely.





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On 1/24/2014 4:36 PM, TimR wrote:
If P and T are constant (STP), V is proportional to n.


Yup. In an ideal gas. (you've just posted the ideal gas equation)

But water vapor isn't an ideal gas. That equation doesn't apply.

In an ideal world, I'd just boyle some water
on the stove.

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mike wrote:
On 1/23/2014 11:15 PM, gregz wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
In my three bedroom trailer, I've got a floor model
humidifier. I have to feed it at least two gal of
water d ay, to keep the indoor air comfortable.
Maybe even more than that.

From my old fire science days, I remember that water
vaporizes, and increases 1800 times volume.

That means I'm putting 3600 gal a day of vapor into
my trailer. Some condenses on the inside of windows,
but not two gal per day worth. I wonder where the
rest of that vapor goes? I don't have any windows
cranked open, and I'm not holding the door open all
day.

Makes me wonder what I can do, to reduce the air and
heat loss?



I noticed the air is pretty cool over mine. It is a swamp cooler ! I wonder
how much negative btu it taking away ?


You know exactly how many BTU's it takes to vaporize that much water.
Google heat of vaporization.

970.4 BTU/lb ~ 8000 BTU/gallon.
I just measured temp differential. It's not that much. 6-7 degrees, but
it's moving a lot of air.

Greg


I'm thinking. 8000 btu over 12 hours, about 600 btu hr ?

Greg
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On 1/24/2014 8:23 AM, TimR wrote:
On Friday, January 24, 2014 9:20:54 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 10:12:21 PM UTC-5,
wrote:

When you charge to do a job, you do the job to the standard of
the time - making use of the technology available to do the job
right. A home ispector can get a thermal imaging camera for less
than $600 - or a better one for the $1000 range.


The one we use at work cost $3500. At times of the year when the
inside and outside temperature vary greatly, like the dead of
winter or dog day summer, they are very useful. But you have to
inspect all year round. If you need to know infiltration, you have
to do a blower test anyway.


Just had another thought. We also have a small handheld smoke
generator. I don't know exactly how it works, but it has a battery,
a little glycol reservoir, and a squeeze bulb. It produces a small
puff of smoke that is very effective at showing air currents. With a
little knowledge of where your air leaks probably are, and a smoke
source, you can start plugging your worst leaks first. They're
likely around weatherstripping on doors and windows, etc.

I wonder if you can rent a theater production smoke generator like the
type used for concerts, etc from a party supply outfit? You could fill
the whole house, trailer or business with smoke and look for leaks.
Johnstone Supply and most HVAC supply houses sell smoke bombs for
air leak tests. When using any smoke generator, it's a very good idea to
notify the fire department or even invite a fire marshal to drop by in
order to prevent an unnecessary reaction to a panicked call to 911. ^_^

TDD


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On 1/25/2014 9:50 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
I wonder if you can rent a theater production smoke generator like the
type used for concerts, etc from a party supply outfit? You could fill
the whole house, trailer or business with smoke and look for leaks.
Johnstone Supply and most HVAC supply houses sell smoke bombs for
air leak tests. When using any smoke generator, it's a very good idea to
notify the fire department or even invite a fire marshal to drop by in
order to prevent an unnecessary reaction to a panicked call to 911. ^_^

TDD


So true. Nothing like having a two alarm response
to your smoke test.

A couple years ago, when there was a fire near me,
I heard from my Dad, who saw it on TV. I drove to
look. Find the FD had holes in the roof, and four
aerial ladder streams going in. No smoke or steam
coming out, the fire musta been out by the time I
got there. Most FD do a good job, but this batch
on this day didn't impress me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PYq1DKjw90


This one must have been earlier than when I arrived,
still some smoke:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjfGztjGL_E

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On Friday, January 24, 2014 7:26:36 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 13:36:00 -0800 (PST), TimR

wrote:



On Friday, January 24, 2014 1:03:19 PM UTC-5, wrote:


PV=nRT








If P and T are constant (STP), V is proportional to n.






Yup. In an ideal gas. (you've just posted the ideal gas equation)




But water vapor isn't an ideal gas. That equation doesn't apply.




You're wrong. Outside of phase changes, it's as close as any other.

Moist air is lighter than dry air (the part you snipped) because all

gasses, or mixtures, follow the ideal gas law very closely.


Uh, yeah. That's why there's no need for those wretched steam property tables, right?

And why CO2 pellet guns work?

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wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 21:34:04 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/23/2014 8:05 PM,
wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 18:24:48 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/23/2014 5:37 PM,
wrote:
Any home inspector worth his spit has one.

If a home ispector does not have one he's a fraud.

Judgemental, yet? Let he who hath not
misspelled a word cast the first flame.
A home inspector without an IR camera cannot tell you if there is
moisture problems in a wall, settled or missing insulation, and a
host of other problems that you are paying him to find - that YOU
cannot find with the naked eye. And he cannot either.

Call it judgemental if you want - a home inspector without an IR
camera can NOT do the job you are hiring him for, and calling
himself a "home inspector" is stretching the truth.
Definition of fraud.

I rest my case.


Some how, people inspected homes before IR cameras
came out. I remain skeptical about your judgement.

IR cameras have been around AT LEAST as long as the "home inspector"
"profession"

When you charge to do a job, you do the job to the standard of the
time - making use of the technology available to do the job right. A
home ispector can get a thermal imaging camera for less than $600 - or
a better one for the $1000 range.
Not having one puts you in the bottom of the stack of a somewhat shady
business - to the most part unregulated and untrained charlatons.

If I'm hiring a home inspector, he WILL have the equipment to do the
job. And he WILL have building construction experience and/or
construction technology education.


It seems that much of the year this camera would be useless.


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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 11:02:02 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 21:34:04 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/23/2014 8:05 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 18:24:48 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/23/2014 5:37 PM,
wrote:
Any home inspector worth his spit has one.

If a home ispector does not have one he's a fraud.

Judgemental, yet? Let he who hath not
misspelled a word cast the first flame.
A home inspector without an IR camera cannot tell you if there is
moisture problems in a wall, settled or missing insulation, and a
host of other problems that you are paying him to find - that YOU
cannot find with the naked eye. And he cannot either.

Call it judgemental if you want - a home inspector without an IR
camera can NOT do the job you are hiring him for, and calling
himself a "home inspector" is stretching the truth.
Definition of fraud.

I rest my case.

Some how, people inspected homes before IR cameras
came out. I remain skeptical about your judgement.

IR cameras have been around AT LEAST as long as the "home inspector"
"profession"

When you charge to do a job, you do the job to the standard of the
time - making use of the technology available to do the job right. A
home ispector can get a thermal imaging camera for less than $600 - or
a better one for the $1000 range.
Not having one puts you in the bottom of the stack of a somewhat shady
business - to the most part unregulated and untrained charlatons.

If I'm hiring a home inspector, he WILL have the equipment to do the
job. And he WILL have building construction experience and/or
construction technology education.


It seems that much of the year this camera would be useless.

Nope.
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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 08:59:58 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Friday, January 24, 2014 7:26:36 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 13:36:00 -0800 (PST), TimR

wrote:



On Friday, January 24, 2014 1:03:19 PM UTC-5, wrote:


PV=nRT








If P and T are constant (STP), V is proportional to n.






Yup. In an ideal gas. (you've just posted the ideal gas equation)




But water vapor isn't an ideal gas. That equation doesn't apply.




You're wrong. Outside of phase changes, it's as close as any other.

Moist air is lighter than dry air (the part you snipped) because all

gasses, or mixtures, follow the ideal gas law very closely.


Uh, yeah. That's why there's no need for those wretched steam property tables, right?


Idiot. His house if full of high-pressure steam?

And why CO2 pellet guns work?


In fact, yes.



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On Saturday, January 25, 2014 2:57:12 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Idiot. His house if full of high-pressure steam?


Read for comprehension. The statement was that water vapor behaves as an ideal gas. It does not.

Moist air does, at least close enough; but not water vapor.




And why CO2 pellet guns work?




In fact, yes.


In fact, no. CO2 is very far from being an ideal gas. That's why it is so useful.

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On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 18:54:13 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Saturday, January 25, 2014 2:57:12 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Idiot. His house if full of high-pressure steam?


Read for comprehension. The statement was that water vapor behaves as an ideal gas. It does not.


It certainly does. High pressure steam (which is emphatically *NOT*
water vapor, rather is super-saturated) does not. Learn something!

Moist air does, at least close enough; but not water vapor.


Good grief. You really are a loser.



And why CO2 pellet guns work?




In fact, yes.


In fact, no. CO2 is very far from being an ideal gas. That's why it is so useful.


Bull****.
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On Monday, January 27, 2014 7:49:19 PM UTC-5, wrote:
In fact, no. CO2 is very far from being an ideal gas. That's why it is so useful.




Bull****.


I'm sure it is impossible to explain this, or anything else, to you. But for the benefit of others:

any gas behaves as an ideal gas if the temperature is high enough, the pressure is low enough, AND.....important........it is a single phase system.

CO2 as commonly used is a two phase system. As it is used, liquid phase converts to gaseous, maintaining a reasonably stable pressure at the given temperature. If this were not true, an air rifle could not possibly shoot accurately, and a number of other applications would be much more difficult. The highly useful property of relatively stable pressure is caused by the phase change - phase change is not part of the ideal gas equation, because it doesn't happen in an ideal gas.

The fact of a two phase system existing, such as in a CO2 tank, or anywhere you have water in liquid and gaseous phases together, indicates that temperature is low enough and pressure high enough that you cannot assume ideal gas conditions. A humidifier contains liquid water. Oops.
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On Tue, 28 Jan 2014 09:09:20 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Monday, January 27, 2014 7:49:19 PM UTC-5, wrote:
In fact, no. CO2 is very far from being an ideal gas. That's why it is so useful.




Bull****.


I'm sure it is impossible to explain this, or anything else, to you. But for the benefit of others:

any gas behaves as an ideal gas if the temperature is high enough, the pressure is low enough, AND.....important........it is a single phase system.


No, if it's saturated it doesn't behave as an ideal gas. Otherwise,
as this case, it certainly does. Idiot.

CO2 as commonly used is a two phase system. As it is used, liquid phase converts to gaseous, maintaining a reasonably stable pressure at the given temperature. If this were not true, an air rifle could not possibly shoot accurately, and a number of other applications would be much more difficult. The highly useful property of relatively stable pressure is caused by the phase change - phase change is not part of the ideal gas equation, because it doesn't happen in an ideal gas.


You really are a dumbass. I already stated the phase change issue.


The fact of a two phase system existing, such as in a CO2 tank, or anywhere you have water in liquid and gaseous phases together, indicates that temperature is low enough and pressure high enough that you cannot assume ideal gas conditions. A humidifier contains liquid water. Oops.


Idiot. Do at least try to read. Then attempt a thought. It will be
a new experience.

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On Tue, 28 Jan 2014 09:09:20 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Monday, January 27, 2014 7:49:19 PM UTC-5, wrote:
In fact, no. CO2 is very far from being an ideal gas. That's why it is so useful.



Bull****.


I'm sure it is impossible to explain this, or anything else, to you. But for the benefit of others:

any gas behaves as an ideal gas if the temperature is high enough, the pressure is low enough, AND.....important........it is a single phase system.


No, if it's saturated it doesn't behave as an ideal gas. Otherwise,
as this case, it certainly does. Idiot.

CO2 as commonly used is a two phase system. As it is used, liquid phase converts to gaseous, maintaining a reasonably stable pressure at the given temperature. If this were not true, an air rifle could not possibly shoot accurately, and a number of other applications would be much more difficult. The highly useful property of relatively stable pressure is caused by the phase change - phase change is not part of the ideal gas equation, because it doesn't happen in an ideal gas.


You really are a dumbass. I already stated the phase change issue.


The fact of a two phase system existing, such as in a CO2 tank, or anywhere you have water in liquid and gaseous phases together, indicates that temperature is low enough and pressure high enough that you cannot assume ideal gas conditions. A humidifier contains liquid water. Oops.


Idiot. Do at least try to read. Then attempt a thought. It will be
a new experience.


FWIW, this is an excellent audio-video demonstrating the ideal gas....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me2H7Ja93Wg



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On Tuesday, January 28, 2014 5:45:18 PM UTC-5, wrote:
You really are a dumbass. I already stated the phase change issue.


Yes, in a manner that indicates you don't understand it.

Your posts are quick to insult but slow to show knowledge.

I'm pretty sure you don't actually have a clue about PV=nRT. But you could easily prove me wrong. Just solve the equation for V. See if Stormy got it right. Does 2 gallons of liquid water equal 3600 gallons of water vapor?

Unless you have kids who are high school students, I strongly suspect you'll have a little trouble converting 2 gallons to n in appropriate units and looking up R. You'll probably get T right. And you'll certainly get P wrong, based on your earlier posts.

But after that it's just arithmetic. V = nRT/P.

Show your work, including the units.

Then do it again off the steam tables and see what the difference is. 1%? 10%?

Nah, you don't know what steam tables are. You solve the ideal gas equation, and I'll look up the number off the steam table.
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On Wed, 29 Jan 2014 06:59:12 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 28, 2014 5:45:18 PM UTC-5, wrote:
You really are a dumbass. I already stated the phase change issue.


Yes, in a manner that indicates you don't understand it.


Wrong, of course.

Your posts are quick to insult but slow to show knowledge.


The intentionally stupid irritate me. You certainly fall into that
category.

I'm pretty sure you don't actually have a clue about PV=nRT. But you could easily prove me wrong. Just solve the equation for V. See if Stormy got it right. Does 2 gallons of liquid water equal 3600 gallons of water vapor?


I *know* you're an idiot.

Unless you have kids who are high school students, I strongly suspect you'll have a little trouble converting 2 gallons to n in appropriate units and looking up R. You'll probably get T right. And you'll certainly get P wrong, based on your earlier posts.


Now we know you're into the Malformed level of lying.

But after that it's just arithmetic. V = nRT/P.

Show your work, including the units.


Work for what? I can't even read your stupid post. You're too stupid
to even use line breaks and I have no interest in chasing them down
for you.

Then do it again off the steam tables and see what the difference is. 1%? 10%?

Nah, you don't know what steam tables are. You solve the ideal gas equation, and I'll look up the number off the steam table.


Idiot.
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