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Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
Hope this link works. I occasionally part out newer TVs that have had the screen broken. I decided I'd try to get a set of LED's to light up. Got 8 of these strips out of a 46" Samsung. I ramped up the voltage till I got pretty good illumination. Ended up with 48v and about 1/3 amp to do one strip. In the picture I have a 10ohm resistor but it works without a current limiting resistor. I just had this one in the circuit so I could calculate current. The mounting board seems to get warm so I suspect the current limiting is built into the strip. I'm thinking about using these for some outdoor lighting projects.
https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...75206785_n.jpg |
Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
jamesgang wrote:
Hope this link works. I occasionally part out newer TVs that have had the screen broken. I decided I'd try to get a set of LED's to light up. Got 8 of these strips out of a 46" Samsung. I ramped up the voltage till I got pretty good illumination. Ended up with 48v and about 1/3 amp to do one strip. In the picture I have a 10ohm resistor but it works without a current limiting resistor. I just had this one in the circuit so I could calculate current. The mounting board seems to get warm so I suspect the current limiting is built into the strip. I'm thinking about using these for some outdoor lighting projects. https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...75206785_n.jpg Don't know about the limiting, but I like the variac. Used to use one that also had meters. Greg |
Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
On Friday, January 10, 2014 2:23:32 PM UTC-6, jamesgang wrote:
Hope this link works. I occasionally part out newer TVs that have had the screen broken. I decided I'd try to get a set of LED's to light up. Got 8 of these strips out of a 46" Samsung. I ramped up the voltage till I got pretty good illumination. Ended up with 48v and about 1/3 amp to do one strip.. In the picture I have a 10ohm resistor but it works without a current limiting resistor. I just had this one in the circuit so I could calculate current. The mounting board seems to get warm so I suspect the current limiting is built into the strip. I'm thinking about using these for some outdoor lighting projects. https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...75206785_n.jpg That sure looks like a Harbor Freight multimeter sitting there!!!! |
Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
On 1/11/2014 9:43 AM, willshak wrote:
wrote: https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...75206785_n.jpg That sure looks like a Harbor Freight multimeter sitting there!!!! Why? It's not a cen-tech multimeter which is HF's brand. Cen Tech typically have the leads on the lower right, front. -- .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
On 01/10/2014 07:25 PM, wrote:
On Friday, January 10, 2014 2:23:32 PM UTC-6, jamesgang wrote: https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...75206785_n.jpg That sure looks like a Harbor Freight multimeter sitting there!!!! The case is similar, but the label says it's a "Windward Multimeter WP2000". I looked it up but I can't find a reference to anything by that name, or even by that company. Hmmm.... Jon |
Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 12:23:32 -0800 (PST), jamesgang
wrote: Hope this link works. I occasionally part out newer TVs that have had the screen broken. I decided I'd try to get a set of LED's to light up. Got 8 of these strips out of a 46" Samsung. I ramped up the voltage till I got pretty good illumination. Ended up with 48v and about 1/3 amp to do one strip. In the picture I have a 10ohm resistor but it works without a current limiting resistor. I just had this one in the circuit so I could calculate current. The mounting board seems to get warm so I suspect the current limiting is built into the strip. I'm thinking about using these for some outdoor lighting projects. https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...75206785_n.jpg You will probably want some current limiting in there for your project. You can't count on the line voltage being constant and the current will vary wildly depending on the voltage. You're unlikely to get an integral number of strips to work out to the right voltage, either. |
Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 12:23:32 -0800 (PST), jamesgang
wrote: Hope this link works. I occasionally part out newer TVs that have had the screen broken. I decided I'd try to get a set of LED's to light up. Got 8 of these strips out of a 46" Samsung. I ramped up the voltage till I got pretty good illumination. Ended up with 48v and about 1/3 amp to do one strip. In the picture I have a 10ohm resistor but it works without a current limiting resistor. I just had this one in the circuit so I could calculate current. The mounting board seems to get warm so I suspect the current limiting is built into the strip. I'm thinking about using these for some outdoor lighting projects. https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...75206785_n.jpg --- If there's a current limiter in there, then once it kicks in the voltage across the 10 ohm resistor will stay constant if the input voltage is increased - within limits -... |
Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
On Saturday, January 11, 2014 11:27:05 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 12:23:32 -0800 (PST), jamesgang Hope this link works. I occasionally part out newer TVs that have had the screen broken. I decided I'd try to get a set of LED's to light up. Got 8 of these strips out of a 46" Samsung. I ramped up the voltage till I got pretty good illumination. Ended up with 48v and about 1/3 amp to do one strip. In the picture I have a 10ohm resistor but it works without a current limiting resistor. I just had this one in the circuit so I could calculate current. The mounting board seems to get warm so I suspect the current limiting is built into the strip. I'm thinking about using these for some outdoor lighting projects. https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...75206785_n.jpg You will probably want some current limiting in there for your project. You can't count on the line voltage being constant and the current will vary wildly depending on the voltage. You're unlikely to get an integral number of strips to work out to the right voltage, either. I'm thinking I'll go with a 48v switching power supply. They are pretty cheap on flea-bay. The tv power supply says the led voltage was 122 vdc. I guess two strips in series. The strips all connected to a distribution strip running down the side, I should have checked that out closer but I threw it away with the tv plastic and wires. The led strip is actually 2 strips that connect about 2/3 of the way down. They are in series because it doesn't light if you disconnect the second segment. I'm thinking they use different length 2nd sections for different size tv's. I got 8 sets of these out of this 46" tv. |
Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
On Sunday, January 12, 2014 7:56:57 AM UTC-5, John Fields wrote:
On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 12:23:32 -0800 (PST), jamesgang Hope this link works. I occasionally part out newer TVs that have had the screen broken. I decided I'd try to get a set of LED's to light up. Got 8 of these strips out of a 46" Samsung. I ramped up the voltage till I got pretty good illumination. Ended up with 48v and about 1/3 amp to do one strip. In the picture I have a 10ohm resistor but it works without a current limiting resistor. I just had this one in the circuit so I could calculate current. The mounting board seems to get warm so I suspect the current limiting is built into the strip. I'm thinking about using these for some outdoor lighting projects. https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...75206785_n.jpg --- If there's a current limiter in there, then once it kicks in the voltage across the 10 ohm resistor will stay constant if the input voltage is increased - within limits -... I can't really figure out why else the board would get warm. It's got paint over it so I can't really trace anything on it. There are a few surface mount parts on it besides the leds but they are small so I can't see them being much of a current limit at a 1/3 of an amp. I cranked the voltage up into the 50s but it didn't get much brighter so I figure 48v is safe. I've run it at 48v for about 30 hours now. |
Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
On Sunday, January 12, 2014 12:59:14 PM UTC-5, jamesgang wrote:
On Sunday, January 12, 2014 7:56:57 AM UTC-5, John Fields wrote: On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 12:23:32 -0800 (PST), jamesgang Hope this link works. I occasionally part out newer TVs that have had the screen broken. I decided I'd try to get a set of LED's to light up. Got 8 of these strips out of a 46" Samsung. I ramped up the voltage till I got pretty good illumination. Ended up with 48v and about 1/3 amp to do one strip. In the picture I have a 10ohm resistor but it works without a current limiting resistor. I just had this one in the circuit so I could calculate current. The mounting board seems to get warm so I suspect the current limiting is built into the strip. I'm thinking about using these for some outdoor lighting projects. https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...75206785_n.jpg --- If there's a current limiter in there, then once it kicks in the voltage across the 10 ohm resistor will stay constant if the input voltage is increased - within limits -... I can't really figure out why else the board would get warm. It's got paint over it so I can't really trace anything on it. There are a few surface mount parts on it besides the leds but they are small so I can't see them being much of a current limit at a 1/3 of an amp. I cranked the voltage up into the 50s but it didn't get much brighter so I figure 48v is safe. I've run it at 48v for about 30 hours now. My $8, 10amp, 48vdc power supply showed up. Tried a strip on it with no resistor. Seems to work fine. |
Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
On Friday, January 10, 2014 at 3:23:32 PM UTC-5, jamesgang wrote:
Hope this link works. I occasionally part out newer TVs that have had the screen broken. I decided I'd try to get a set of LED's to light up. Got 8 of these strips out of a 46" Samsung. I ramped up the voltage till I got pretty good illumination. Ended up with 48v and about 1/3 amp to do one strip. In the picture I have a 10ohm resistor but it works without a current limiting resistor. I just had this one in the circuit so I could calculate current. The mounting board seems to get warm so I suspect the current limiting is built into the strip. I'm thinking about using these for some outdoor lighting projects. https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...75206785_n.jpg Hi there, the link apparently no longer works and i was wondering if you can help me out, my son is trying to get the LED's from an old 46" samsung t.v. to light up, but for some reason they are not. is it possible to light up just one section or both must be put together? Also what kind of power supply do we need? 24 volts or 48 volts? |
Powering LEDs from a broken LED/LCD TV.
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