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#1
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FPE Stablock breakers
I have a FPE Stablock breaker panel in my house. I was not aware of the
problem with them until I read some older posts about them on this newsgroup. I then used a search engine and read up on them. But there seems to be inconsistencies in the information I found. For one thing, it appears that the breakers that fail are usually only the double ones. Yet, other sites say they are all bad. Then I noted that the photos I saw, all showed older panels with black breakers. My panel is a newer style, and has orange breakers. (orange tipped levers). I was considering replacing this panel, but before the cost and work, I'm wondering if it's necessary. Are ALL Stablock panels bad, or only the older ones? And if it's only the double breakers that are at fault, I'd rather just add a sub-panel for the only double breaker that I use, which is a 30A for the elec water heater. The other double is for (Range), which I do nto use. This excludes the MAIN, which I'm not to concerned about, because this 100A panel, is a sub-panel being fed from another panel with 100A cartridge fuses. |
#2
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FPE Stablock breakers
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#3
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FPE Stablock breakers
I have a FPE Stablock breaker panel in my house. I was not aware of the
problem with them until I read some older posts about them on this newsgroup. I then used a search engine and read up on them. But there seems to be inconsistencies in the information I found. For one thing, it appears that the breakers that fail are usually only the double ones. Yet, other sites say they are all bad. Then I noted that the photos I saw, all showed older panels with black breakers. My panel is a newer style, and has orange breakers. (orange tipped levers). I was considering replacing this panel, but before the cost and work, I'm wondering if it's necessary. Are ALL Stablock panels bad, or only the older ones? And if it's only the double breakers that are at fault, I'd rather just add a sub-panel for the only double breaker that I use, which is a 30A for the elec water heater. The other double is for (Range), which I do nto use. This excludes the MAIN, which I'm not to concerned about, because this 100A panel, is a sub-panel being fed from another panel with 100A cartridge fuses. *Eaton makes replacement interiors for many old style and new style circuit breaker panels. Check out this link and look at the PDF documentation: http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsS...dex.htm#tabs-2 You would need to order them from an Eaton/Cutler Hammer electrical distributor and they are more money than a regular panel. However the labor savings is a big plus because you can use the same box without having to remove the existing wiring or cut open a wall. All you need is the physical dimensions to determine if one will work for you. As far as the FPE is concerned, they're all bad breakers even the mains, and I speak from personal experience. I've seen them not trip from a dead short, I've seen them not shut off after I flipped the handle to the off position, I've flipped them on with one phase remaining off and the other on... My brother jokingly says that you can weld with wires connected to an FPE breaker without having to worry if it trips. |
#4
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FPE Stablock breakers
I had a stab lock breaker not trip on a dead short, the wire finally melted and exploded, it took out a couple swiches too.
anyone with a stab lock panel might as well replace it, otherwise it will be a huge issue at home sale time, and probably cost more in the future. state farm told me they will not insure any new homeowner with a stab lock breaker panel since there were too many home fires caused by them...... |
#5
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FPE Stablock breakers
On Tue, 7 Jan 2014 18:32:58 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote: I had a stab lock breaker not trip on a dead short, the wire finally melted and exploded, it took out a couple swiches too. anyone with a stab lock panel might as well replace it, otherwise it will be a huge issue at home sale time, and probably cost more in the future. state farm told me they will not insure any new homeowner with a stab lock breaker panel since there were too many home fires caused by them...... It appears the American product and the Canadian product were different.. At least the later Canadian breakers were pretty good. |
#7
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FPE Stablock breakers
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#8
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FPE Stablock breakers
On 1/7/2014 1:45 PM, wrote:
I have a FPE Stablock breaker panel in my house. I was not aware of the problem with them until I read some older posts about them on this newsgroup. I then used a search engine and read up on them. But there seems to be inconsistencies in the information I found. For one thing, it appears that the breakers that fail are usually only the double ones. Yet, other sites say they are all bad. Then I noted that the photos I saw, all showed older panels with black breakers. My panel is a newer style, and has orange breakers. (orange tipped levers). I was considering replacing this panel, but before the cost and work, I'm wondering if it's necessary. Are ALL Stablock panels bad, or only the older ones? And if it's only the double breakers that are at fault, I'd rather just add a sub-panel for the only double breaker that I use, which is a 30A for the elec water heater. The other double is for (Range), which I do nto use. This excludes the MAIN, which I'm not to concerned about, because this 100A panel, is a sub-panel being fed from another panel with 100A cartridge fuses. In 1979 FPE was sold to Reliance Electric. Reliance discovered that FPE had submitted fraudulent information to UL and notified UL. UL pulled the listing on most of the FPE products. Reliance sued FPE (or whoever had owned FPE) and got $42 million. The fraud ended in 1981. This 'bad' period was probably around 1965-1981. The CPSC opened a very limited investigation of FPE in 1980, with disturbing results. http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm has a lot of information, much of it derived from the CPSC investigation. Two pole breakers may not trip (can jam and never trip) if the current on both poles is not the same (like ground fault). (Service disconnect size breakers were not tested.) Another problem - single pole breakers may never trip at 135% of rating. Also bus failures which cannot be seen as they are developing without panel disassembly. The CPSC investigation was closed 1983. The reasons it was closed likely were not related to the potential problem. http://www.cahillinspection.com/imag.../Aronstein.pdf There was a class action lawsuit against FPE around 2000 in New Jersey. There was a judgement against FPE in 2002: "FPE violated the Consumer Fraud Act because FPE knowingly and purposefully distributed circuit breakers which were not tested to meet UL Standards as indicated on their label and there is an ascertainable loss for which treble damages are recoverable...." [Note: there may have actually been limited recovery rights to homeowners, and only in New Jersey. The case may still be under appeal as of January 2007]. http://www.codecheck.com/cc/ccimages/PDFs/FPE_2012.pdf includes a bunch more problems with FPE panels, including problems not covered above. http://www.connecticut-electric.com/ at one time made replacement breakers for FPE panels. I didn't check their website now. (That does not fix bus problems.) FPE (Federal Pioneer?) is currently sold in Canada. There has been a redesign, and these breakers are presumably OK. (But there was a fairly extensive recall about 1998 - see the Schneider-Federal Pioneer website.) If I had an FPE panel I would replace it. The 'guts' replacement in John's post may be a good method. |
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