One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks

On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

TDD

On 6/11/2013 3:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

TDD

That is what I would suggest but the design of the blade is poor. It
should have extended further into the handle. As it is, it will
continue to fail so when fixed should just be considered a decorative
item and not used.

On 6/11/2013 6:27 AM, Frank wrote:
On 6/11/2013 3:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

TDD

That is what I would suggest but the design of the blade is poor. It
should have extended further into the handle. As it is, it will
continue to fail so when fixed should just be considered a decorative
item and not used.

You got to admit, it's a cool looking knife albeit a bit cheesy. ^_^

TDD

On 6/11/2013 7:38 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 6:27 AM, Frank wrote:
On 6/11/2013 3:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the
end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

TDD

That is what I would suggest but the design of the blade is poor. It
should have extended further into the handle. As it is, it will
continue to fail so when fixed should just be considered a decorative
item and not used.

You got to admit, it's a cool looking knife albeit a bit cheesy. ^_^

TDD

Yup.

On 6/11/2013 1:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks

I would use clear silicone caulk....easy to apply not visible once it
sets.

On Jun 11, 4:55*am, Norminn wrote:
On 6/11/2013 1:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:



One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks

I would use clear silicone caulk....easy to apply not visible once it
sets.

According to nestork, if the silicone fails; you cannot add to it. The
follow-on caulking won't stick. Which implies, you only have one shot
at the repair.

On Jun 10, 10:55*pm, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks

When I go to that link, all I get are three little blank squares and
am told 'done on page' with no more bit transfers.

There is a place to click that says 'download', but nothing happens
when clicking there and a place to click to sign up for dropbox, and a
place to click to 'sign in', but no pictures.

On 6/11/2013 8:04 AM, Robert Macy wrote:
....

According to nestork, if the silicone fails; you cannot add to it. The
follow-on caulking won't stick. Which implies, you only have one shot
at the repair.

That's on top of existing; you can always remove the old back to
original surfaces and reclean and go again...

--

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 02:02:17 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it.

Thanks. We've had it for at least 30 years.

If the T-88 is a clear epoxy

Virtually clear: http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/T-88-c27.htm

I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 07:27:24 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 3:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

TDD

That is what I would suggest but the design of the blade is poor. It
should have extended further into the handle. As it is, it will
continue to fail so when fixed should just be considered a decorative
item and not used.

I agree that the design is not perfect, but we've had it for over 30
years and this is the first time it has broken. If it will last another
30, it will be someone else's problem. :-)

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 06:38:35 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 6:27 AM, Frank wrote:
On 6/11/2013 3:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

TDD

That is what I would suggest but the design of the blade is poor. It
should have extended further into the handle. As it is, it will
continue to fail so when fixed should just be considered a decorative
item and not used.

You got to admit, it's a cool looking knife albeit a bit cheesy. ^_^

Groan

Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


2 part epoxy.

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

On 6/11/2013 8:42 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
....


Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

Is the existing bonding hard or pliable? If hard, it was likely an
epoxy, if it's pliable more than likely a silicone.

The tang is obviously roughened already; I'd be careful about scratching
up the plastic handle much as I think it's likely to show.

If it held 30 yr before, if you do clean out the recess and clean up the
tang and then use whatever the bonding agent you choose suggests as
cleaner (alcohol or acetone aka fingernail polish remover are likely
good choices) then it ought to be good for that again...

--

On 06/11/2013 06:12 AM, Robert Macy wrote:

When I go to that link, all I get are three little blank squares and
am told 'done on page' with no more bit transfers.

There is a place to click that says 'download', but nothing happens
when clicking there and a place to click to sign up for dropbox, and a
place to click to 'sign in', but no pictures.

The three little squares are thumbnails on my end, and clicking one of
them opens up a full image (with cursor keys navigating between the
images).

Try one of the images and see if it works:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z5...0annotated.jpg

Jon
Technical Department, alt.home.repair
Extension 750

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 08:55:10 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/11/2013 8:42 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
...


Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

Is the existing bonding hard or pliable? If hard, it was likely an
epoxy, if it's pliable more than likely a silicone.

I thought it was hard, but I just peeled off the part that was stuck to
the knife tab, and it's fairly flexible, like a very stiff plastic. Not
at all brittle. And this is at least 30 years old.

The tang is obviously roughened already

Yes. This is clearly visible ofter the old glue is removed. I uploaded 3
new photos to the Dropbox folder:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

You can also see the arc line where the old glue came to.

I'd be careful about scratching
up the plastic handle much as I think it's likely to show.

I am having trouble getting the old glue out of the handle slot. I've
loosened it using an old screwdriver that I sharpened to a point for
just such jobs, but I can't get it out. I am reluctant to use too much
leverage for fear of cracking the handle.

I have a pair of fine point tweezers, but I can't get a good hold on it.

I've even used a dental pick.

If it held 30 yr before, if you do clean out the recess and clean up the
tang and then use whatever the bonding agent you choose suggests as
cleaner (alcohol or acetone aka fingernail polish remover are likely
good choices) then it ought to be good for that again...

On Jun 11, 10:32*am, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 08:55:10 -0500, dpb wrote:
On 6/11/2013 8:42 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
...

Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

Is the existing bonding hard or pliable? *If hard, it was likely an
epoxy, if it's pliable more than likely a silicone.

I thought it was hard, but I just peeled off the part that was stuck to
the knife tab, and it's fairly flexible, like a very stiff plastic. Not
at all brittle. And this is at least 30 years old.

The tang is obviously roughened already

Yes. This is clearly visible ofter the old glue is removed. I uploaded 3
new photos to the Dropbox folder:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

You can also see the arc line where the old glue came to.

I'd be careful about scratching
up the plastic handle much as I think it's likely to show.

I am having trouble getting the old glue out of the handle slot. I've
loosened it using an old screwdriver that I sharpened to a point for
just such jobs, but I can't get it out. I am reluctant to use too much
leverage for fear of cracking the handle.

I have a pair of fine point tweezers, but I can't get a good hold on it.

I've even used a dental pick.



If it held 30 yr before, if you do clean out the recess and clean up the
tang and then use whatever the bonding agent you choose suggests as
cleaner (alcohol or acetone aka fingernail polish remover are likely
good choices) then it ought to be good for that again...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would not put the repaired knife into the dishwasher to clean it,
and maybe not put any of the other knives in the set in the dishwasher
any more in the future.

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 02:02:17 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

I got all of the old glue off the blade and out of the handle. The blade
does indeed have a round tip. I've uploaded 3 new photos of the blade
with the glue removed.

I also got all of the gloe out of the handle. It came out in one piece
with a little prying and a pair of needle-point tweezers. It came out in
one piece.

I tried scratching the inside of the handle slot with a sharpened
screwdriver and with a dental pick. Neither of them even made a scratch.
I'm starting to think that this might be glass. It might have been a
good set. I don't remember. The blade says "Sheffield England".

I'm thinking that roughing up the inside may not be needed. The inside
has a bit of a "wavy" surface (not smooth) and the old glue was
difficult to get out. When I did, it looked to have a bit of a "bulb" at
the bottom, which indicates to be that the bottom of the slot may be a
bit larger by design.

I'm thinking I'm good to go.

Comments?

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 08:48:47 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jun 11, 10:32*am, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 08:55:10 -0500, dpb wrote:
On 6/11/2013 8:42 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
...

Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

Is the existing bonding hard or pliable? *If hard, it was likely an
epoxy, if it's pliable more than likely a silicone.

I thought it was hard, but I just peeled off the part that was stuck to
the knife tab, and it's fairly flexible, like a very stiff plastic. Not
at all brittle. And this is at least 30 years old.

The tang is obviously roughened already

Yes. This is clearly visible ofter the old glue is removed. I uploaded 3
new photos to the Dropbox folder:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

You can also see the arc line where the old glue came to.

I'd be careful about scratching
up the plastic handle much as I think it's likely to show.

I am having trouble getting the old glue out of the handle slot. I've
loosened it using an old screwdriver that I sharpened to a point for
just such jobs, but I can't get it out. I am reluctant to use too much
leverage for fear of cracking the handle.

I have a pair of fine point tweezers, but I can't get a good hold on it.

I've even used a dental pick.



If it held 30 yr before, if you do clean out the recess and clean up the
tang and then use whatever the bonding agent you choose suggests as
cleaner (alcohol or acetone aka fingernail polish remover are likely
good choices) then it ought to be good for that again...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would not put the repaired knife into the dishwasher to clean it,
and maybe not put any of the other knives in the set in the dishwasher
any more in the future.

They may have gottne into the dishwasher a few times, but I think we've
been pretty careful to wash them by hand.

On 6/11/2013 9:44 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 07:27:24 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 3:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

TDD

That is what I would suggest but the design of the blade is poor. It
should have extended further into the handle. As it is, it will
continue to fail so when fixed should just be considered a decorative
item and not used.

I agree that the design is not perfect, but we've had it for over 30
years and this is the first time it has broken. If it will last another
30, it will be someone else's problem. :-)

Then by all means clean up the metal and epoxy in with clear epoxy.
You probably don't cut the cheese that often.

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 13:09:35 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 9:44 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 07:27:24 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 3:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

TDD

That is what I would suggest but the design of the blade is poor. It
should have extended further into the handle. As it is, it will
continue to fail so when fixed should just be considered a decorative
item and not used.

I agree that the design is not perfect, but we've had it for over 30
years and this is the first time it has broken. If it will last another
30, it will be someone else's problem. :-)

Then by all means clean up the metal and epoxy in with clear epoxy.
You probably don't cut the cheese that often.

;-)

On Jun 11, 12:55*am, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks

I'd use cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) and not clean anything out. It's
less viscous and will penetrate fine cracks much better and give
better bonding.

On 06/11/2013 08:49 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:

I tried scratching the inside of the handle slot with a sharpened
screwdriver and with a dental pick. Neither of them even made a scratch.
I'm starting to think that this might be glass. It might have been a
good set. I don't remember. The blade says "Sheffield England".

It's pretty easy to tell if something is glass or plastic. You can tap
it against your teeth and tell right away if it is glass or plastic, or
you can press a razor knife into an inconspicuous area and see if it
leaves a divot.

From your pictures, it "looks" like glass, but try the tooth test and
see what you think.

Jon

"Denis G." wrote:
On Jun 11, 12:55 am, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks

I'd use cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) and not clean anything out. It's
less viscous and will penetrate fine cracks much better and give
better bonding.

I would go with my favorite, if the clear epoxy does not work, Plumbers
Goop. It would take several days to fully set up.

Greg

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 17:33:10 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 06/11/2013 08:49 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:

I tried scratching the inside of the handle slot with a sharpened
screwdriver and with a dental pick. Neither of them even made a scratch.
I'm starting to think that this might be glass. It might have been a
good set. I don't remember. The blade says "Sheffield England".

It's pretty easy to tell if something is glass or plastic. You can tap
it against your teeth and tell right away if it is glass or plastic, or
you can press a razor knife into an inconspicuous area and see if it
leaves a divot.

From your pictures, it "looks" like glass, but try the tooth test and
see what you think.

It's very hard. I think it's glass.

On 6/11/2013 12:33 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 13:09:35 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 9:44 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 07:27:24 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 3:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

TDD

That is what I would suggest but the design of the blade is poor. It
should have extended further into the handle. As it is, it will
continue to fail so when fixed should just be considered a decorative
item and not used.

I agree that the design is not perfect, but we've had it for over 30
years and this is the first time it has broken. If it will last another
30, it will be someone else's problem. :-)

Then by all means clean up the metal and epoxy in with clear epoxy.
You probably don't cut the cheese that often.

;-)


All men are pigs but fart jokes are just as funny to an eight year old
as they are to an eighty year old. In some respects, we male humans
never grow up. ^_^

TDD

On 6/11/2013 10:49 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 02:02:17 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

I got all of the old glue off the blade and out of the handle. The blade
does indeed have a round tip. I've uploaded 3 new photos of the blade
with the glue removed.

I also got all of the gloe out of the handle. It came out in one piece
with a little prying and a pair of needle-point tweezers. It came out in
one piece.

I tried scratching the inside of the handle slot with a sharpened
screwdriver and with a dental pick. Neither of them even made a scratch.
I'm starting to think that this might be glass. It might have been a
good set. I don't remember. The blade says "Sheffield England".

I'm thinking that roughing up the inside may not be needed. The inside
has a bit of a "wavy" surface (not smooth) and the old glue was
difficult to get out. When I did, it looked to have a bit of a "bulb" at
the bottom, which indicates to be that the bottom of the slot may be a
bit larger by design.

I'm thinking I'm good to go.

Comments?


I adore my lady friends who can fix things. I loaned tools and heat
shrink to one of my grownup girlfriends so she could rewire the fuel
injection on the cylinder head off her Z-car. She used the kitchen table
for a workbench. ^_^

TDD

On 6/11/2013 8:12 AM, Robert Macy wrote:
On Jun 10, 10:55 pm, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks

When I go to that link, all I get are three little blank squares and
am told 'done on page' with no more bit transfers.

There is a place to click that says 'download', but nothing happens
when clicking there and a place to click to sign up for dropbox, and a
place to click to 'sign in', but no pictures.


You should always have at least two different web browsers on your
computer. I do a lot of experimenting so I have ten different ones. ^_^

TDD

On 6/12/2013 4:28 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 10:49 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 02:02:17 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the
end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

I got all of the old glue off the blade and out of the handle. The blade
does indeed have a round tip. I've uploaded 3 new photos of the blade
with the glue removed.

I also got all of the gloe out of the handle. It came out in one piece
with a little prying and a pair of needle-point tweezers. It came out in
one piece.

I tried scratching the inside of the handle slot with a sharpened
screwdriver and with a dental pick. Neither of them even made a scratch.
I'm starting to think that this might be glass. It might have been a
good set. I don't remember. The blade says "Sheffield England".

I'm thinking that roughing up the inside may not be needed. The inside
has a bit of a "wavy" surface (not smooth) and the old glue was
difficult to get out. When I did, it looked to have a bit of a "bulb" at
the bottom, which indicates to be that the bottom of the slot may be a
bit larger by design.

I'm thinking I'm good to go.

Comments?


I adore my lady friends who can fix things. I loaned tools and heat
shrink to one of my grownup girlfriends so she could rewire the fuel
injection on the cylinder head off her Z-car. She used the kitchen table
for a workbench. ^_^

TDD

Sounds like someone I'd like to know.......I cannot stand helplessness
(genetic trait). When my mom was terminally ill and I was taking care,
she told me that I was missing a word from my vocabulary. She was a
stickler for using good grammar (and holding my stomach in), so I did a
replay of what I had just said in conversation....didn't remember any
bad grammar, so I asked what word was missing....."can't". Still
seeking perfection. Locked myself out of the house last night, forgot
to put the pot in place when I turned on the coffee maker this morning.
Sad to see 12 cups of java flowing across the kitchen floor, but it
was time for a mopping )

I am completely mystified by cars, afraid to over-inflate tires, and not
about to carry a can of gas in the car. OTOH, I think I saved my
daughter's boyfriend from being crushed by his Jeep while changing a
tire.....had it jacked up with jack sitting on dirt. "Hey, Jason, isn't
the ground kind of soft for a jack? Can you put the jack on concrete?"
Sure. Done. Few minutes later, "Hey, Jason, I wouldn't lie under the
car while it's on the jack." Oh, hey, good thinking. He was done
changing the tire anyway. He no sooner stood up and turned around than
the damn car fell off the jack. My heart can't take that kind of stuff!!

On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 03:20:05 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 12:33 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 13:09:35 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 9:44 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 07:27:24 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 3:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

TDD

That is what I would suggest but the design of the blade is poor. It
should have extended further into the handle. As it is, it will
continue to fail so when fixed should just be considered a decorative
item and not used.

I agree that the design is not perfect, but we've had it for over 30
years and this is the first time it has broken. If it will last another
30, it will be someone else's problem. :-)

Then by all means clean up the metal and epoxy in with clear epoxy.
You probably don't cut the cheese that often.

;-)


All men are pigs but fart jokes are just as funny to an eight year old
as they are to an eighty year old. In some respects, we male humans
never grow up. ^_^

I don't agree with that. Many men are very nice people and some women
are not very nice at all. Anyway, this was more of a pun, than an
adolescent fart joke.

On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 03:28:02 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 10:49 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 02:02:17 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

I got all of the old glue off the blade and out of the handle. The blade
does indeed have a round tip. I've uploaded 3 new photos of the blade
with the glue removed.

I also got all of the gloe out of the handle. It came out in one piece
with a little prying and a pair of needle-point tweezers. It came out in
one piece.

I tried scratching the inside of the handle slot with a sharpened
screwdriver and with a dental pick. Neither of them even made a scratch.
I'm starting to think that this might be glass. It might have been a
good set. I don't remember. The blade says "Sheffield England".

I'm thinking that roughing up the inside may not be needed. The inside
has a bit of a "wavy" surface (not smooth) and the old glue was
difficult to get out. When I did, it looked to have a bit of a "bulb" at
the bottom, which indicates to be that the bottom of the slot may be a
bit larger by design.

I'm thinking I'm good to go.

Comments?


I adore my lady friends who can fix things.

Unless you are the thing they are trying to fix, I presume...

I loaned tools and heat
shrink to one of my grownup girlfriends

But not to any of your not-grownup girlfriends?

so she could rewire the fuel
injection on the cylinder head off her Z-car. She used the kitchen table
for a workbench. ^_^

She's an amateur. I have a real workbench in the garage.

On Jun 11, 7:23*am, Jon Danniken
wrote:
On 06/11/2013 06:12 AM, Robert Macy wrote:



When I go to that link, all I get are three little blank squares and
am told 'done on page' with no more bit transfers.

There is a place to click that says 'download', but nothing happens
when clicking there and a place to click to sign up for dropbox, and a
place to click to 'sign in', but no pictures.

The three little squares are thumbnails on my end, and clicking one of
them opens up a full image (with cursor keys navigating between the
images).

Try one of the images and see if it works:https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z5...:3%20Glue%20re...

Jon
Technical Department, alt.home.repair
Extension 750

no, that link gets me the EXACT same blank thumbnails as before on
this system.

Using Opera 9.64 on Win98, which gets most every website does NOT work
at Dropbox - lazy programmers.

Using IE 8 on WinXP does get thumbnail pictures.takes hours, but
pictures eventually appear.

On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 22:55:23 -0700, Jennifer Murphy
wrote:

One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks

The cheese knife is all fixed. I uploaded several photos of the result.

Thanks to all who helped.

On 6/12/2013 7:33 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 03:20:05 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 12:33 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 13:09:35 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 9:44 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 07:27:24 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 3:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

TDD

That is what I would suggest but the design of the blade is poor. It
should have extended further into the handle. As it is, it will
continue to fail so when fixed should just be considered a decorative
item and not used.

I agree that the design is not perfect, but we've had it for over 30
years and this is the first time it has broken. If it will last another
30, it will be someone else's problem. :-)

Then by all means clean up the metal and epoxy in with clear epoxy.
You probably don't cut the cheese that often.

;-)


All men are pigs but fart jokes are just as funny to an eight year old
as they are to an eighty year old. In some respects, we male humans
never grow up. ^_^

I don't agree with that. Many men are very nice people and some women
are not very nice at all. Anyway, this was more of a pun, than an
adolescent fart joke.


Some people are no pun at all and apply Political Correctness to every
situation. Your statement seems to mean that most men are mean and not
very nice people. Perhaps those men you believe are so nice are really
meretricious. I had a gal once say to me, "You're being nice, you must
want something." My reply "No, I'm simply being nice to you because I
think people are unpleasant to you all day long, I thought you might
appreciate someone being nice to you for a change, sorry, my mistake."
I then walked away without saying another word. I've had Feminazis react
quite nasty when I'd hold the door for them. It amazes me that many
women have such an attitude and are surprised when no men will
interact with them. I'm nice to nasty people because it bugs the crap
out of them. Perhaps I'm really evil deep down into my soul. ^_^

TDD

On 6/12/2013 7:36 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 03:28:02 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 10:49 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 02:02:17 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

I got all of the old glue off the blade and out of the handle. The blade
does indeed have a round tip. I've uploaded 3 new photos of the blade
with the glue removed.

I also got all of the gloe out of the handle. It came out in one piece
with a little prying and a pair of needle-point tweezers. It came out in
one piece.

I tried scratching the inside of the handle slot with a sharpened
screwdriver and with a dental pick. Neither of them even made a scratch.
I'm starting to think that this might be glass. It might have been a
good set. I don't remember. The blade says "Sheffield England".

I'm thinking that roughing up the inside may not be needed. The inside
has a bit of a "wavy" surface (not smooth) and the old glue was
difficult to get out. When I did, it looked to have a bit of a "bulb" at
the bottom, which indicates to be that the bottom of the slot may be a
bit larger by design.

I'm thinking I'm good to go.

Comments?


I adore my lady friends who can fix things.

Unless you are the thing they are trying to fix, I presume...

I loaned tools and heat
shrink to one of my grownup girlfriends

But not to any of your not-grownup girlfriends?

The baby daughter of my late friend GB is about to turn 30. I've know
her since she was a little girl. She Emailed pictures of her two
daughters, one about four and the other going on one. Those are some of
my girlfriends. Of course there are filthy minded nasty people who
automatically assume there is some prevision going on when I tell of my
tiny girlfriends. ^_^

so she could rewire the fuel
injection on the cylinder head off her Z-car. She used the kitchen table
for a workbench. ^_^

She's an amateur. I have a real workbench in the garage.


So my gal pal is an amateur because she had no garage with a workbench.
Nice to know how little you think of her. ^_^

TDD

On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 09:51:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/12/2013 7:36 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 03:28:02 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 10:49 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 02:02:17 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

I got all of the old glue off the blade and out of the handle. The blade
does indeed have a round tip. I've uploaded 3 new photos of the blade
with the glue removed.

I also got all of the gloe out of the handle. It came out in one piece
with a little prying and a pair of needle-point tweezers. It came out in
one piece.

I tried scratching the inside of the handle slot with a sharpened
screwdriver and with a dental pick. Neither of them even made a scratch.
I'm starting to think that this might be glass. It might have been a
good set. I don't remember. The blade says "Sheffield England".

I'm thinking that roughing up the inside may not be needed. The inside
has a bit of a "wavy" surface (not smooth) and the old glue was
difficult to get out. When I did, it looked to have a bit of a "bulb" at
the bottom, which indicates to be that the bottom of the slot may be a
bit larger by design.

I'm thinking I'm good to go.

Comments?


I adore my lady friends who can fix things.

Unless you are the thing they are trying to fix, I presume...

I loaned tools and heat
shrink to one of my grownup girlfriends

But not to any of your not-grownup girlfriends?

The baby daughter of my late friend GB is about to turn 30. I've know
her since she was a little girl. She Emailed pictures of her two
daughters, one about four and the other going on one. Those are some of
my girlfriends. Of course there are filthy minded nasty people who
automatically assume there is some prevision going on when I tell of my
tiny girlfriends. ^_^

so she could rewire the fuel
injection on the cylinder head off her Z-car. She used the kitchen table
for a workbench. ^_^

She's an amateur. I have a real workbench in the garage.


So my gal pal is an amateur because she had no garage with a workbench.
Nice to know how little you think of her. ^_^

It was a joke. Sorry. Usually people with sharp tongues have thicker
skins or better senses of humor or both -- or at least they ought to.
;-)

On Jun 12, 4:56*pm, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 09:51:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas





wrote:
On 6/12/2013 7:36 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 03:28:02 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 10:49 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 02:02:17 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

On 6/12/2013 4:56 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 09:51:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/12/2013 7:36 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 03:28:02 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 10:49 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 02:02:17 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 12:55 AM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
One small cheese knife from a set broke. The blade, which is marked
"stainles steel", came out of the handle which looks like glass, but is
probably acrylic.

The blade has a small tab that was glued into a small slot in the end of
the handle. The glue failed and the blade fell out. Some of the glue is
still adhering to the blade tab, the rest is inside the handle slot.

Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ldq4hm5z55ggc2o/cPFXotL_l4

I have some T-88 which I have used in the past on the advice of people
here. I am inclined to use in for this application. Is that a good
choice?

I assume I need to clean the old glue residue off the blade tab and dig
as much as I can out of the handle slot. Right?

Thanks


Jennifer, that's a cool looking cheese knife and I can see why you would
like to repair it. If the T-88 is a clear epoxy I would suggest
using an emery board on the metal after you get the old glue off. The
abrasive on the emery board will roughen up the metal so the epoxy will
bond better. Of course only roughen the metal that will be glued into
the handle. If you have a dental pick you don't mind cleaning up with
nail polish remover, you may be able to carefully dig around in the
cavity in the handle to remove any old glue and roughen up the inside
of the hole. From your picture, it looks like the metal tang has a rough
texture to it so you may only have to get the old glue off then
clean it with a solvent. The inside of the slot in the handle needs
some kind of roughening to help the glue adhere to the handle. You could
try using the aforementioned emery board if you can cut a piece
that will fit into the slot or get something to scratch up the inside of
the cavity. The rough surfaces will probably not be visible after
the clear epoxy is used to fill in the slot around the end of the knife
blade. Good luck! ^_^

I got all of the old glue off the blade and out of the handle. The blade
does indeed have a round tip. I've uploaded 3 new photos of the blade
with the glue removed.

I also got all of the gloe out of the handle. It came out in one piece
with a little prying and a pair of needle-point tweezers. It came out in
one piece.

I tried scratching the inside of the handle slot with a sharpened
screwdriver and with a dental pick. Neither of them even made a scratch.
I'm starting to think that this might be glass. It might have been a
good set. I don't remember. The blade says "Sheffield England".

I'm thinking that roughing up the inside may not be needed. The inside
has a bit of a "wavy" surface (not smooth) and the old glue was
difficult to get out. When I did, it looked to have a bit of a "bulb" at
the bottom, which indicates to be that the bottom of the slot may be a
bit larger by design.

I'm thinking I'm good to go.

Comments?


I adore my lady friends who can fix things.

Unless you are the thing they are trying to fix, I presume...

I loaned tools and heat
shrink to one of my grownup girlfriends

But not to any of your not-grownup girlfriends?

The baby daughter of my late friend GB is about to turn 30. I've know
her since she was a little girl. She Emailed pictures of her two
daughters, one about four and the other going on one. Those are some of
my girlfriends. Of course there are filthy minded nasty people who
automatically assume there is some prevision going on when I tell of my
tiny girlfriends. ^_^

so she could rewire the fuel
injection on the cylinder head off her Z-car. She used the kitchen table
for a workbench. ^_^

She's an amateur. I have a real workbench in the garage.


So my gal pal is an amateur because she had no garage with a workbench.
Nice to know how little you think of her. ^_^

It was a joke. Sorry. Usually people with sharp tongues have thicker
skins or better senses of humor or both -- or at least they ought to.
;-)


I have extremely thick skin and love to use reverse psychology to play
with people's minds. You didn't offend me or hurt my feelings, I was
playing you. I deal with dirty minded people all the time, half my
relatives are Southern Baptist and see sin everywhere whether it exists
or not. My favorite encounter was when me and JH were repairing a
network for a retailer when I discovered a trojan horse virus infection
in one of the office computers. Without thinking I told the gal who's
computer was affected by the virus that her computer had a trojan on it.
The nice lady ran to her boss and told him we were being vulgar to her
and talking sex. She was the type who gets offended when I say "hello"
because "Hell" is a swear word and "O" is a sexual reference. Someone
should slap their ministers for screaming at them that there is sin
hiding behind every tree and bush just waiting to jump out and get them.
O_o

TDD