Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2 - 3 cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or partially clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put some water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I hook that up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes of drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer and turned on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and suck the warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also trip when the dryer is vented to the outside?

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous

On Oct 23, 8:44*pm, triple7sss
wrote:
Alright, I'm at a loss. *When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2 - 3 cycles to dry a load of clothes. *I assume the duct is clogged or partially clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put some water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. *When I hook that up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes of drying. *I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer and turned on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and suck the warm air from the dryer out. *It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also trip when the dryer is vented to the outside?

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

* * * * * * * * * * - Anonymous

NO HVAC guy needed to clean exhaust line, crudely connect a shop vacs
EXHAUST to the interior dryer connection.......

turn on shop vac it will blow all the lint out of the dryer vent,
have somone watch the exhaust spot they will likely see a big cloud
of lint come out. do this easy maintence every 6 months or a year,
your utility bill will be less........

your dryer likely is filled with lint, i would use the shop vac on vac
and try to clean the dryer.....

the breaker may be just going bad, they are designed to trip sooner at
end of life

"triple7sss" wrote in message
roups.com...

Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2 - 3
cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or partially
clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put
some water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I
hook that up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5
minutes of drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the
dryer so I extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the
same results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer and
turned on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in
and suck the warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also trip
when the dryer is vented to the outside?

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous

My first check would be to check the wire terminals on the breaker. If
aluminum wire that tends to (shrink) Tighten the screws. loose connections
tend to heat the breaker after a couple loads .As I am retired electric
utility worker that found this often on service calls. second reason is a
breaker failing . WW

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 00:44:01 +0000, triple7sss
wrote:

Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2 - 3 cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or partially clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put some water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I hook that up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes of drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer and turned on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and suck the warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also trip when the dryer is vented to the outside?

Not sure why the breaker is tripping so I'm not going to speculate.
You don't want an HVAC guy to do the dryer vent. He is going to charge
you far more than a handyman to do the job. I've even seen a local
guy advertise dryer vent cleaning so you may want to check the
classified ads in the local shoppers paper for that.

You will probably save $100 that way.

On Oct 23, 7:44*pm, triple7sss
wrote:
Alright, I'm at a loss. *When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2 - 3 cycles to dry a load of clothes. *I assume the duct is clogged or partially clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put some water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. *When I hook that up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes of drying. *I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer and turned on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and suck the warm air from the dryer out. *It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also trip when the dryer is vented to the outside?

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

* * * * * * * * * * - Anonymous

Use the exhaust from a shop vac or from a leaf blower to blow out the
duct. Try running the dryer with no hose on the exhaust, just the
built-in lint filter and see if it still blows. If it does, then the
exhaust system has nothing to do with the breaker blowing, and the
problem is too much current being drawn by the dryer, or the breaker
is going bad. You can get almost anyhandy person to move the dryer to
a different breaker to see if the failure follows the dryer or not.
If the substitute breaker also trips, the dryer is 99% at fault. If
the new breaker does not fail, replace the original breaker.

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:

hr(bob) wrote:


On Oct 23, 7:44=A0pm, triple7sss
icaedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_7...@example. com wrote:/i
i Alright, I'm at a loss. =A0When I vent my dryer to the outside
it takes 2=/i
- 3 cycles to dry a load of clothes. =A0I assume the duct is clogged or
pa=
rtially clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.
i/i
i So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that
you put =/i
some water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it.
=A0When =
I hook that up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about
5 =
minutes of drying. =A0I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating
the =
dryer so I extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got
the=
same results.
i/i
i So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the
dryer and=/i
turned on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air
in=
and suck the warm air from the dryer out. =A0It still trips the
breaker.
i/i
i The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it
also tri=/i
p when the dryer is vented to the outside?
i/i
i --/i
i/i
i "Write a wise saying and your name will live
forever."/i
i/i
i =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 - Anonymous/i

Use the exhaust from a shop vac or from a leaf blower to blow out the
duct. Try running the dryer with no hose on the exhaust, just the
built-in lint filter and see if it still blows. If it does, then the
exhaust system has nothing to do with the breaker blowing, and the
problem is too much current being drawn by the dryer, or the breaker
is going bad. You can get almost anyhandy person to move the dryer to
a different breaker to see if the failure follows the dryer or not.
If the substitute breaker also trips, the dryer is 99% at fault. If
the new breaker does not fail, replace the original breaker.


That is an excellent idea and why didn't I think of moving it to another
breaker to test?!?!?! Thanks for that.

I did reverse my shop vac and first got a big face full of lint blowback
which tells me that the duct was pretty well clogged. I vacuumed for a
bit then reversed again and it would blow through.

I crawled under the deck and by shining a flashlight up the duct I can
see great balls of lint inside. As I stand here today - that duct runs 16' to the outside of the house. My shop vac doesn't have enough ooomph
to blow the lint clods out. Maybe it's time to try the leaf blower.
--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 16:48:05 +0000, triple7sss
wrote:

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:

hr(bob) wrote:


On Oct 23, 7:44=A0pm, triple7sss
icaedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_7...@example. com wrote:/i
i Alright, I'm at a loss. =A0When I vent my dryer to the outside
it takes 2=/i
- 3 cycles to dry a load of clothes. =A0I assume the duct is clogged or
pa=
rtially clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.
i/i
i So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that
you put =/i
some water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it.
=A0When =
I hook that up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about
5 =
minutes of drying. =A0I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating
the =
dryer so I extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got
the=
same results.
i/i
i So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the
dryer and=/i
turned on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air
in=
and suck the warm air from the dryer out. =A0It still trips the
breaker.
i/i
i The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it
also tri=/i
p when the dryer is vented to the outside?
i/i
i --/i
i/i
i "Write a wise saying and your name will live
forever."/i
i/i
i =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 - Anonymous/i

Use the exhaust from a shop vac or from a leaf blower to blow out the
duct. Try running the dryer with no hose on the exhaust, just the
built-in lint filter and see if it still blows. If it does, then the
exhaust system has nothing to do with the breaker blowing, and the
problem is too much current being drawn by the dryer, or the breaker
is going bad. You can get almost anyhandy person to move the dryer to
a different breaker to see if the failure follows the dryer or not.
If the substitute breaker also trips, the dryer is 99% at fault. If
the new breaker does not fail, replace the original breaker.


That is an excellent idea and why didn't I think of moving it to another
breaker to test?!?!?! Thanks for that.


It will work IF you have another tandem breaker of the same capacity.
Not terribly common unless you have electric heat or ?

/

I did reverse my shop vac and first got a big face full of lint blowback
which tells me that the duct was pretty well clogged. I vacuumed for a
bit then reversed again and it would blow through.

I crawled under the deck and by shining a flashlight up the duct I can
see great balls of lint inside. As I stand here today - that duct runs 16' to the outside of the house. My shop vac doesn't have enough ooomph
to blow the lint clods out. Maybe it's time to try the leaf blower.

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:

clare wrote:


On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 16:48:05 +0000, triple7sss
icaedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_7658@example. com wrote:/i

iresponding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
/i
itriple7sss wrote:/i
i/i
ihr(bob) wrote:/i
i/i
i/i
i On Oct 23, 7:44=A0pm, triple7sss/i
i
icaedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_7...@example. com
wrote:/i/i
i i Alright, I'm at a loss. =A0When I vent my
dryer to the outside/i
i it takes 2=/i/i
i - 3 cycles to dry a load of clothes. =A0I assume the duct
is clogged or/i
i pa=/i
i rtially clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a
look./i
i i/i/i
i i So I bought one of those little plastic
interior vent boxes that/i
i you put =/i/i
i some water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over
to it./i
i =A0When =/i
i I hook that up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker
after about/i
i 5 =/i
i minutes of drying. =A0I thought maybe venting warm air was
overheating/i
i the =/i
i dryer so I extended the flex tube out to the front of the
dryer and got/i
i the=/i
i same results./i
i i/i/i
i i So I moved the little plastic vent box across
the hall from the/i
i dryer and=/i/i
i turned on the whole house fan that sits directly above to
pull cool air/i
i in=/i
i and suck the warm air from the dryer out. =A0It still trips
the/i
i breaker./i
i i/i/i
i i The breaker gets warm but if there was a
problem why wouldn't it/i
i also tri=/i/i
i p when the dryer is vented to the outside?/i
i i/i/i
i i --/i/i
i i/i/i
i i "Write a wise saying and your name will
live/i
i forever."/i/i
i i/i/i
i i =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 -
Anonymous/i/i
i/i
i Use the exhaust from a shop vac or from a leaf blower to
blow out the/i
i duct. Try running the dryer with no hose on the exhaust,
just the/i
i built-in lint filter and see if it still blows. If it does,
then the/i
i exhaust system has nothing to do with the breaker blowing,
and the/i
i problem is too much current being drawn by the dryer, or the
breaker/i
i is going bad. You can get almost anyhandy person to move
the dryer to/i
i a different breaker to see if the failure follows the dryer
or not./i
i If the substitute breaker also trips, the dryer is 99% at
fault. If/i
i the new breaker does not fail, replace the original
breaker./i
i/i
i/i
iThat is an excellent idea and why didn't I think of moving it to
another/i
ibreaker to test?!?!?! Thanks for that. /i


It will work IF you have another tandem breaker of the same capacity.
Not terribly common unless you have electric heat or ?

/
i/i
iI did reverse my shop vac and first got a big face full of lint
blowback/i
iwhich tells me that the duct was pretty well clogged. I vacuumed
for a/i
ibit then reversed again and it would blow through. /i
i/i
iI crawled under the deck and by shining a flashlight up the duct
I can/i
isee great balls of lint inside. As I stand here today - that
duct runs 16' to
the outside of the house. My shop vac doesn't have enough ooomph/i
ito blow the lint clods out. Maybe it's time to try the leaf
blower./i


I am lucky enough to be cursed with electric baseboard heat and have
other 30 AMP breakers to try. I'll let you know.

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous

On 10/24/2012 10:15 PM, wrote:

[snip]

It will work IF you have another tandem breaker of the same capacity.
Not terribly common unless you have electric heat or ?

I have 3 30A double-pole breakers. No electric heat. Dryer and built-in
cooktop & oven (separate circuits).

[snip]

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"The moment you alter your perception of yourself and your future, both
you and your future begin to change." -- Marilee Zdenek

triple7sss wrote:

I did reverse my shop vac and first got a big face full of lint
blowback
which tells me that the duct was pretty well clogged. I vacuumed for
a
bit then reversed again and it would blow through.

I crawled under the deck and by shining a flashlight up the duct I can
see great balls of lint inside. As I stand here today - that duct
runs 16' to the outside of the house. My shop vac doesn't have
enough ooomph to blow the lint clods out. Maybe it's time to try the
leaf blower.

There is a gizmo you can get. It's an arrow-head shaped nozzle, about 1/2"
in diameter, for an air hose with exhaust ports pointing backwards.

You hook it up to your air compressor and feed it into the output end of
your dryer exhaust.

Stand to the side or you'll get flocked.

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:
Alright, thanks for that and I'll try and blow it out with the shop vac before I go the HVAC route.

I took the cover off of the breaker panel a bit ago and noticed the black wire going into the breaker gets hot. Not just warm but downright hot. the cord off the dryer going into the outlet isn't warm at all. I don't know if that points to the breaker or the partially shorted heating element.

triple7sss wrote:


Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2
- 3
cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or
partially
clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put
some
water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I
hook that
up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes
of
drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I
extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same
results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer
and turned
on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and
suck the
warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also
trip when
the dryer is vented to the outside?

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous





--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 16:44:02 +0000, triple7sss
wrote:

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:
Alright, thanks for that and I'll try and blow it out with the shop vac before I go the HVAC route.

I took the cover off of the breaker panel a bit ago and noticed the black wire going into the breaker gets hot. Not just warm but downright hot. the cord off the dryer going into the outlet isn't warm at all. I don't know if that points to the breaker or the partially shorted heating element.

triple7sss wrote:


Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2
- 3
cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or
partially
clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put
some
water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I
hook that
up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes
of
drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I
extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same
results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer
and turned
on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and
suck the
warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also
trip when
the dryer is vented to the outside?

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous
You have either a bad connection at the breaker or a bad breaker. I
would replace the breaker FOR SURE and be sure the connection is good
and clean and tight.

On Oct 24, 11:12*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 16:44:02 +0000, triple7sss





wrote:
responding tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/dryer-trips-breaker-except-w...
triple7sss wrote:
Alright, thanks for that and I'll try and blow it out with the shop vac before I go the HVAC route.

I took the cover off of the breaker panel a bit ago and noticed the black wire going into the breaker gets hot. *Not just warm but downright hot. *the cord off the dryer going into the outlet isn't warm at all. I don't know if that points to the breaker or the partially shorted heating element.

wrote

You have either a bad connection at the breaker or a bad breaker. I
would replace the breaker FOR SURE and be sure the connection is good
and clean and tight.

One of the most important points is making sure the connection is clean,
strong, and TIGHT. Aluminum wiring, especially, can loosen, which causes a
resistance, causing the wire to get hot.

Here's a section about problems with aluminum wires:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminu...aluminum_wires

On Fri, 26 Oct 2012 03:38:18 -0700, "David Kaye"
wrote:

wrote

You have either a bad connection at the breaker or a bad breaker. I
would replace the breaker FOR SURE and be sure the connection is good
and clean and tight.

One of the most important points is making sure the connection is clean,
strong, and TIGHT. Aluminum wiring, especially, can loosen, which causes a
resistance, causing the wire to get hot.

Here's a section about problems with aluminum wires:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminu...aluminum_wires


Nothing wrong with aluminum wire itself - just rquires more attention
to detail and proper technique

wrote

Nothing wrong with aluminum wire itself - just rquires more attention
to detail and proper technique

Except that it is so difficult to work with that a lot of fire insurers
won't insure homes with aluminum wiring. You have to use special connectors
in order to be sure that the aluminum connections don't work loose and cause
a fire hazard.

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:

David Kaye wrote:


wrote/i

i You have either a bad connection at the breaker or a bad
breaker. I/i
i would replace the breaker FOR SURE and be sure the connection is
good/i
i and clean and tight./i

One of the most important points is making sure the connection is clean,

strong, and TIGHT. Aluminum wiring, especially, can loosen, which
causes a
resistance, causing the wire to get hot.

Here's a section about problems with aluminum wires:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminu...aluminum_wires



I kind of noticed that when I took the old breaker out. It is aluminum wire and the contacts on the breaker were...not exactly corroded, but like the wiki article suggests it looked like oxidation had done a number. I cut the wire back an inch or so and put in a new breaker and I'm in good shape.


--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:

triple7sss wrote:


Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2
- 3
cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or
partially
clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put
some
water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I
hook that
up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes
of
drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I
extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same
results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer
and turned
on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and
suck the
warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also
trip when
the dryer is vented to the outside?

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous

Thanks for the ideas and a couple things to update.

I reversed my shop vac and was rewarded with a face full of lint
blowback. Indicates that the duct was pretty
well clogged. Vacuumed down in there as far as I could get and then
reversed and used the exhaust to blow and air goes through now.

Crawled under the deck and with a flashlight shone up the duct I can see
giant balls of lint - not completely blocking anymore - and my shop vac doesn't have enough juice to blow them out or vac them back up. Sealed up around the shop vac hose going into the duct to generate more pressure
but it is 16' from the dryer to the outside.

I also ran the dryer again with it vented inside and noticed that the
BLACK wire going to the breaker gets hot. Not just warm but actually hot
and is hot about 4 - 6 inches down the wire back from the breaker.

I don't know if this indicates a problem with the breaker or the dryer.
The cord from the dryer to the wall is cool to the touch.

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous

Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2
- 3
cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or
partially
clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put
some
water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I
hook that
up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes
of
drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I
extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same
results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer
and turned
on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and
suck the
warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also
trip when
the dryer is vented to the outside?



Thanks for the ideas and a couple things to update.

I reversed my shop vac and was rewarded with a face full of lint
blowback. Indicates that the duct was pretty
well clogged. Vacuumed down in there as far as I could get and then
reversed and used the exhaust to blow and air goes through now.

Crawled under the deck and with a flashlight shone up the duct I can see
giant balls of lint - not completely blocking anymore - and my shop vac
doesn't have enough juice to blow them out or vac them back up. Sealed up
around the shop vac hose going into the duct to generate more pressure
but it is 16' from the dryer to the outside.

I also ran the dryer again with it vented inside and noticed that the
BLACK wire going to the breaker gets hot. Not just warm but actually hot
and is hot about 4 - 6 inches down the wire back from the breaker.

I don't know if this indicates a problem with the breaker or the dryer.
The cord from the dryer to the wall is cool to the touch.


*You need to push a brush through the duct to clean it properly and then
blow it out. I put my brush in a drill and have it spinning while the dryer
is blowing out cool air. I push the rotating brush in a few feet at a time
and then pull it out and lint comes blowing out. Lowes sells a dryer duct
cleaning kit and there are others available online. The hot wire could just
be as a result of a loose connection on the circuit breaker. Tighten the
connections on the breaker. If it still gets hot, replace the circuit
breaker. There is also a slim possibility that the wire size is too small.
You should also check with an ammeter how many amps the dryer is actually
pulling.

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:

triple7sss wrote:


Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2
- 3
cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or
partially
clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put
some
water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I
hook that
up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes
of
drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I
extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same
results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer
and turned
on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and
suck the
warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also
trip when
the dryer is vented to the outside?

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous


Bad breaker. I moved it over to another 30AMP dual breaker and the wire
at the breaker never warmed up and never tripped. $15 later I'm in bidness.

Thanks everyone.
--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous

On Mon, 29 Oct 2012 05:44:03 +0000, triple7sss
wrote:

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:

triple7sss wrote:


Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2
- 3
cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or
partially
clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put
some
water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I
hook that
up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes
of
drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I
extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same
results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer
and turned
on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and
suck the
warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also
trip when
the dryer is vented to the outside?

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous


Bad breaker. I moved it over to another 30AMP dual breaker and the wire
at the breaker never warmed up and never tripped. $15 later I'm in bidness.

Thanks everyone.
Like I said.

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:

clare wrote:


On Mon, 29 Oct 2012 05:44:03 +0000, triple7sss
icaedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_7658@example. com wrote:/i

iresponding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
/i
itriple7sss wrote:/i
i/i
itriple7sss wrote:/i
i/i
i/i
i Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside
it takes 2/i
i - 3/i
i cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is
clogged or/i
i partially/i
i clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a
look./i
i/i
i So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes
that you put/i
i some/i
i water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to
it. When I/i
i hook that/i
i up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about
5 minutes/i
i of/i
i drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating
the dryer so I/i
i extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got
the same/i
i results. /i
i/i
i So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from
the dryer/i
i and turned/i
i on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool
air in and/i
i suck the/i
i warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the
breaker./i
i/i
i The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why
wouldn't it also/i
i trip when/i
i the dryer is vented to the outside?/i
i/i
i -- /i
i/i
i "Write a wise saying and your name will live
forever."/i
i/i
i - Anonymous/i
i/i
i/i
iBad breaker. I moved it over to another 30AMP dual breaker and
the wire /i
iat the breaker never warmed up and never tripped. $15 later I'm
in bidness. /i
i/i
iThanks everyone./i
Like I said.


:-)

--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 21:06:25 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 00:44:01 +0000, triple7sss
m wrote:

Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2 - 3 cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or partially clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put some water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I hook that up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes of drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer and turned on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and suck the warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also trip when the dryer is vented to the outside?

I bet the heating element is partially shorted. When the venting is
partially blocked the thermal opens before the breaker cooks off.
Or mabee the breaker is just weak enough that it would trip anyway
if the thermal didn't trip out first. I'd replace the breaker before
doing anything else - and THEN clean everything out.

Triple7sss:

I can't help thinking that the reason why the dryer is working better but tripping the breaker when the duct is going into that plastic vent box is because the duct length involved is shorter and straighter, but the humidity in the air is going up.

The dryer duct might not necessarily be clogged. It may be that the dryer duct is simply imposing too much resistance to air flow.

777sss, in the picture below, can you tell us which kind of flexible duct you have connected to your dryer and about how long it is before it gets to the vent cap on the exterior of your house?



(If it's #1, it shouldn't even be used on a dryer because it's a fire hazard, and ducts like these have so much resistance to air flow that they'll only work semi-reasonably well if the path from the dryer to the vent cap is short and straight.)

It could be that the problem with the dryer is entirely due to the length and type of duct it's being expected to blow air through, and the tripping of the breaker is because venting the dryer through that little plastic box is just putting all the moisture from the clothes into the air, and that increased humidity makes the air more conductive to electricity.

I recall getting electrical shocks from the static electricity that built up on my body when I was a kid and I rubbed my shoes on the carpet in the house I grew up in. But, that only happened in the winter, and I subsequently learned the reason was because in winter the outdoor air comes into our houses and warms up, thereby sending it's relative humidity way down. In the summer, the indoor relative humidity is higher, and it's all the water molecules in the air that dissipate the static electricty on your body into the surrounding air. Dryer air is a better electrical insulator, and so you have to touch something grounded to remove the static electricity that builds up, and doing that give you a small shock.

I'm thinking that with enough humidity in the air and a great big 240 volt heating element in a dryer, you could have enough conductivity through the air to the metal cabinet of the dryer to trip the breaker. I know it sounds kinda far fetched, but that's what I keep coming up with.

On Oct 24, 1:46*am, nestork wrote:
Triple7sss:

I can't help thinking that the reason why the dryer is working better
but tripping the breaker when the duct is going into that plastic vent
box is because the duct length involved is shorter and straighter, but
the humidity in the air is going up.

The dryer duct might not necessarily be clogged. *It may be that the
dryer duct is simply imposing too much resistance to air flow.

777sss, in the picture below, can you tell us which kind of flexible
duct you have connected to your dryer and about how long it is before it
gets to the vent cap on the exterior of your house?

[image:http://www.eureka4you.com/HOME%20-%2...Plumbing/u...]

(If it's #1, it shouldn't even be used on a dryer because it's a fire
hazard, and *ducts like these have so much resistance to air flow that
they'll only work semi-reasonably well if the path from the dryer to the
vent cap is short and straight.)

It could be that the problem with the dryer is entirely due to the
length and type of duct it's being expected to blow air through, and the
tripping of the breaker is because venting the dryer through that little
plastic box is just putting all the moisture from the clothes into the
air, and that increased humidity makes the air more conductive to
electricity.

I recall getting electrical shocks from the static electricity that
built up on my body when I was a kid and I rubbed my shoes on the carpet
in the house I grew up in. *But, that only happened in the winter, and I
subsequently learned the reason was because in winter the outdoor air
comes into our houses and warms up, thereby sending it's relative
humidity way down. *In the summer, the indoor relative humidity is
higher, and it's all the water molecules in the air that dissipate the
static electricty on your body into the surrounding air. *Dryer air is a
better electrical insulator, and so you have to touch something grounded
to remove the static electricity that builds up, and doing that give you
a small shock.

I'm thinking that with enough humidity in the air and a great big 240
volt heating element in a dryer, you could have enough conductivity
through the air to the metal cabinet of the dryer to trip the breaker.
I know it sounds kinda far fetched, but that's what I keep coming up
with.

--
nestork

that #1 plastic fire hazard vent.

I replaced it on a friends dryer because of the safety hazard......
she wasnt happy claimed it couldnt burn. so i took a piece out in the
yard and tried lighting it with a charcoal lighting torch, it refused
to burn.

so then i tried lighting it with my propane torch, it still refused to
burn, it put itself out as soon as i removed the torches flame...

the plastic line is highly convenient and not always the hazard
presented.....

if you doubt this try the experiment yourself....

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:

nestork wrote:



Triple7sss:


I can't help thinking that the reason why the dryer is working better
but tripping the breaker when the duct is going into that plastic vent
box is because the duct length involved is shorter and straighter, but
the humidity in the air is going up.


The dryer duct might not necessarily be clogged. It may be that the
dryer duct is simply imposing too much resistance to air flow.


777sss, in the picture below, can you tell us which kind of flexible
duct you have connected to your dryer and about how long it is before it
gets to the vent cap on the exterior of your house?


[image:
http://www.eureka4you.com/HOME%20-%2...tMaterial.JPG]


(If it's #1, it shouldn't even be used on a dryer because it's a fire
hazard, and ducts like these have so much resistance to air flow that
they'll only work semi-reasonably well if the path from the dryer to the
vent cap is short and straight.)


It could be that the problem with the dryer is entirely due to the
length and type of duct it's being expected to blow air through, and the
tripping of the breaker is because venting the dryer through that little
plastic box is just putting all the moisture from the clothes into the
air, and that increased humidity makes the air more conductive to
electricity.


I recall getting electrical shocks from the static electricity that
built up on my body when I was a kid and I rubbed my shoes on the carpet
in the house I grew up in. But, that only happened in the winter, and I
subsequently learned the reason was because in winter the outdoor air
comes into our houses and warms up, thereby sending it's relative
humidity way down. In the summer, the indoor relative humidity is
higher, and it's all the water molecules in the air that dissipate the
static electricty on your body into the surrounding air. Dryer air is a
better electrical insulator, and so you have to touch something grounded
to remove the static electricity that builds up, and doing that give you
a small shock.


I'm thinking that with enough humidity in the air and a great big 240
volt heating element in a dryer, you could have enough conductivity
through the air to the metal cabinet of the dryer to trip the breaker.
I know it sounds kinda far fetched, but that's what I keep coming up
with.


I have number 4. I thought the damp air/heat might be the problem as well but like I say I put the little vent box right under my whole house fan and pulled the vented dryer air out of the house as quickly as it came out of the dryer and it still trips.



--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 23:59:33 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 21:39:34 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 21:06:25 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 00:44:01 +0000, triple7sss
caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_7658@example. com wrote:

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also trip when the dryer is vented to the outside?

Maybe it's a coincidence and now it will trip even when vented to the
outsie.

.....
I own a clamp on ammeter so I would know the draw before I even took
the cover off.

Don't you have to separate the wires from each other, in the cable,
and put the clamp-on around just one of them?

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:29:14 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:26:55 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 23:59:33 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 21:39:34 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 21:06:25 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 00:44:01 +0000, triple7sss
caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_7658@exampl e.com wrote:

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also trip when the dryer is vented to the outside?

Maybe it's a coincidence and now it will trip even when vented to the
outsie.

.....
I own a clamp on ammeter so I would know the draw before I even took
the cover off.

Don't you have to separate the wires from each other, in the cable,
and put the clamp-on around just one of them?

That is how it works. Fortunately dryer cords are usually zip lead or
you check it in the panel.
Be aware there are L/N loads in a dryer so you have to check both
ungrounded conductors.
There MAY be L/N loads - many do not - and they will be minor.

Check at the panel.

On Thu, 25 Oct 2012 13:35:16 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 23:19:24 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:29:14 -0400, wrote:


Be aware there are L/N loads in a dryer so you have to check both
ungrounded conductors.
There MAY be L/N loads - many do not - and they will be minor.

Check at the panel.

I have never seen a dryer with a 240v motor. (not GE, Whirlpool and
all of the sub brands they own)
They all have 120v motors.
Unless it is a european "universal market" unit. Not common in
North America - but they do exist.

That said, the motor is 1/4 to 1/3 HP to maximum 300 watts, out of
about 4500 watts total. So still relatively minor.

On Fri, 26 Oct 2012 02:11:01 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 25 Oct 2012 22:02:27 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 25 Oct 2012 13:35:16 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 23:19:24 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:29:14 -0400, wrote:


Be aware there are L/N loads in a dryer so you have to check both
ungrounded conductors.
There MAY be L/N loads - many do not - and they will be minor.

Check at the panel.

I have never seen a dryer with a 240v motor. (not GE, Whirlpool and
all of the sub brands they own)
They all have 120v motors.
Unless it is a european "universal market" unit. Not common in
North America - but they do exist.

That said, the motor is 1/4 to 1/3 HP to maximum 300 watts, out of
about 4500 watts total. So still relatively minor.

300 watts is 2.,5 amps more on one leg, that is a significant number.
Then you add the timer and any lights.
Electronic timer draws les than 100ma and the light is not on when it
is running. 2.5 amps is [perhaps significant on a 15 amp circuit , not
on a 30. 300 out of 2250 on one side is still only 14%. And the motor
only draws 300 watts under full load. Likely less than 100 with an
empty drum or light load.

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:29:14 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:26:55 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 23:59:33 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 21:39:34 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 21:06:25 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 00:44:01 +0000, triple7sss
caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_7658@exampl e.com wrote:

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also trip when the dryer is vented to the outside?

Maybe it's a coincidence and now it will trip even when vented to the
outsie.

.....
I own a clamp on ammeter so I would know the draw before I even took
the cover off.

Don't you have to separate the wires from each other, in the cable,
and put the clamp-on around just one of them?

That is how it works. Fortunately dryer cords are usually zip lead or
you check it in the panel.

Ah. I'm not sure I've ever seen my dryer cord, but I have seen the
stove cord.

Be aware there are L/N loads in a dryer so you have to check both
ungrounded conductors.

Okay. Thanks.

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 23:59:33 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 21:39:34 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 21:06:25 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 00:44:01 +0000, triple7sss
caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_7658@example. com wrote:

Alright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it takes 2 - 3 cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or partially clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look.

So I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that you put some water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I hook that up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes of drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same results.

So I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the dryer and turned on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air in and suck the warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker.

The breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it also trip when the dryer is vented to the outside?

I bet the heating element is partially shorted. When the venting is
partially blocked the thermal opens before the breaker cooks off.
Or mabee the breaker is just weak enough that it would trip anyway
if the thermal didn't trip out first. I'd replace the breaker before
doing anything else - and THEN clean everything out.

I would clean out the dryer first and take a look at the element while
you have the front off. Why buy a breaker before you do a cleaning you
should do anyway?

I own a clamp on ammeter so I would know the draw before I even took
the cover off.
The reason I would do it in the order specified is it did NOT trip
with the possibly plugged or restricted line - and does when wide
open. The (possibly) restricted duct is NOT the cause of the breaker
tripping. Fix the tripping breaker first. If the breaker STILL trips,
you have a drier problem.

The other passibility to troubleshoot is to get an Amprobe type tester
to measure the drier current. If it is tripping at below 80% of the
breaker rating it IS a bad breaker.

There's a possibility that the breaker controlling the dryer is old and
needs to be replaced. Breakers are electromagnetic or heat latches. When
too much current flows through the electromagnet or the bimetal strip, it
causes a latch to snap, causing the circuit to shut down. The latch can
wear down, causing it to trip more often. So, the easiest and cheapest
thing to do is to replace the breaker with one with an IDENTICAL rating. If
it still trips, the problem is in the dryer.

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...-t-718049-.htm
triple7sss wrote:
That makes sense. That's the only way I can come up with that it would NOT trip the breaker when vented outside to the clogged duct which would cut off the thermal breaker in the dryer but would still let it run and not trip the electrical breaker.

Thanks!

gfretwell wrote:


On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 00:44:01 +0000, triple7sss
icaedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_7658@example. com wrote:/i

iAlright, I'm at a loss. When I vent my dryer to the outside it
takes 2 - 3
cycles to dry a load of clothes. I assume the duct is clogged or
partially
clogged and will get HVAC guy to come out and take a look./i
i/i
iSo I bought one of those little plastic interior vent boxes that
you put some
water in and run the flexible duct from the dryer over to it. When I
hook that
up, clothes dry quickly but it blows the breaker after about 5 minutes
of
drying. I thought maybe venting warm air was overheating the dryer so I
extended the flex tube out to the front of the dryer and got the same
results. /i
i/i
iSo I moved the little plastic vent box across the hall from the
dryer and
turned on the whole house fan that sits directly above to pull cool air
in and
suck the warm air from the dryer out. It still trips the breaker./i
i/i
iThe breaker gets warm but if there was a problem why wouldn't it
also trip when
the dryer is vented to the outside?/i

I bet the heating element is partially shorted. When the venting is
partially blocked the thermal opens before the breaker cooks off.



--

"Write a wise saying and your name will live forever."

- Anonymous