What kind of oil should I use?

I have an old fan that looks like it came off of some factory
machinery.

I've had it for 30 years, but I think it's 50 to 90 years old. ??
It still looks original. (though the blade used to slip a lot, and
took 60 seconds to catch up to the speed of the shaft, until I glued
the two pieces together)

It used to be it only required oiling once a summer, iirc, but that
has gradually gotten more frequent. Even though just 5 years ago, it
lasted for 2 months once, even then it was usually every 2 weeks, and
now it is every day or two.

What oil should I be using? It has no oil ports, unless you call the
hole in the case right next to the shaft a port. At the other end,
with the blade, I have to tip the motor face up and use a long spout
oil bottle to place oil right where the shaft comes out of the
bearing.

When it needs oil, over the course of an hour or two, it gradually
slows to a stop, and the motor itself gets hot, and because I"ve been
sleeping, I think I've let it stay stopped and hot for hours. But
when oiled again, it seems to run just fine. I suppose it's too old
to have oil-impregnated bearings. (When did those come out?)

I've used 3-in-1 oil, SAE 20, 10W-30**, and I'm wondering if I should
use thicker or thinner. Should I use gear lube (SAE 90 iirc) or try
to find something in the middle like SAE 60***. Is sewing machine oil
thinner than SAE 20 and 3-in-1? At any rate, I have some thin oil in
a clear plastic tube, with a 2mm tube for applying it.

I know I could try every one of these but I need some encouragement.


**Yes I know the additives aren't needed, but at first it seemed to
work better than other oils.

***I could buy a quart of 10W-50 for the car and use some of that.

Please don't tell me to throw the fan away. The only alternative to
better oil is oiling it every day. Last year I got a bigger fan
with 3 speeds that does a wonderful job keeping me cool all night, but
I still want this one, which is the only one small enough to fit on my
window sill, right next to my bed and my head, and which I can turn on
or off just by lifting my arm to the switch on the cord. . I could
nail a shefl to the sill and use a bigger fan, but I'd rather oil it
every night before I go to bed. I keep looking for a simlar fan,
including ebay, but no luck. And if I did buy one, I'd still have to
fix this one.


Thanks.

Unrelated to my qusetion, I think, It's all metal, all black enamel
except the blade and the wire grill around it. It has a thin,flat base
4 or 5 inches square, with holes at each corner, which I think held
screws or rivets that held it to the machinery, or maybe a tractor or
fork-lift if they had fans so long ago. From the base is a mini I
beam going up to hold a motor a little bigger than 2 decks of cards,
on on top of the other. The shaft is closer to one end of the
rectangle. The wire screen is barely any protection from sticking my
fingers in the path of hte blade. It has one blade, or two if you
count both ends. It certainly doesn't oscillate.

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 08:27:47 -0400, micky
wrote:

What kind of oil should I use?

I have an old fan that looks like it came off of some factory
machinery.

I've had it for 30 years, but I think it's 50 to 90 years old. ??
It still looks original. (though the blade used to slip a lot, and
took 60 seconds to catch up to the speed of the shaft, until I glued
the two pieces together)

It used to be it only required oiling once a summer, iirc, but that
has gradually gotten more frequent. Even though just 5 years ago, it
lasted for 2 months once, even then it was usually every 2 weeks, and
now it is every day or two.

What oil should I be using? It has no oil ports, unless you call the
hole in the case right next to the shaft a port. At the other end,
with the blade, I have to tip the motor face up and use a long spout
oil bottle to place oil right where the shaft comes out of the
bearing.

When it needs oil, over the course of an hour or two, it gradually
slows to a stop, and the motor itself gets hot, and because I"ve been
sleeping, I think I've let it stay stopped and hot for hours. But
when oiled again, it seems to run just fine. I suppose it's too old
to have oil-impregnated bearings. (When did those come out?)

I've used 3-in-1 oil, SAE 20, 10W-30**, and I'm wondering if I should
use thicker or thinner. Should I use gear lube (SAE 90 iirc) or try
to find something in the middle like SAE 60***. Is sewing machine oil
thinner than SAE 20 and 3-in-1? At any rate, I have some thin oil in
a clear plastic tube, with a 2mm tube for applying it.

I know I could try every one of these but I need some encouragement.


**Yes I know the additives aren't needed, but at first it seemed to
work better than other oils.

***I could buy a quart of 10W-50 for the car and use some of that.

Please don't tell me to throw the fan away. The only alternative to
better oil is oiling it every day. Last year I got a bigger fan
with 3 speeds that does a wonderful job keeping me cool all night, but
I still want this one, which is the only one small enough to fit on my
window sill, right next to my bed and my head, and which I can turn on
or off just by lifting my arm to the switch on the cord. . I could
nail a shefl to the sill and use a bigger fan, but I'd rather oil it
every night before I go to bed. I keep looking for a simlar fan,
including ebay, but no luck. And if I did buy one, I'd still have to
fix this one.


Thanks.

Unrelated to my qusetion, I think, It's all metal, all black enamel
except the blade and the wire grill around it. It has a thin,flat base
4 or 5 inches square, with holes at each corner, which I think held
screws or rivets that held it to the machinery, or maybe a tractor or
fork-lift if they had fans so long ago. From the base is a mini I
beam going up to hold a motor a little bigger than 2 decks of cards,
on on top of the other. The shaft is closer to one end of the
rectangle. The wire screen is barely any protection from sticking my
fingers in the path of hte blade. It has one blade, or two if you
count both ends. It certainly doesn't oscillate.

Try PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench once or twice to flush out the goo,
then 20w oil should be fine.
--
Mr.E

micky wrote:
What kind of oil should I use?

I have an old fan that looks like it came off of some factory
machinery.

I've had it for 30 years, but I think it's 50 to 90 years old. ??
It still looks original. (though the blade used to slip a lot, and
took 60 seconds to catch up to the speed of the shaft, until I glued
the two pieces together)

It used to be it only required oiling once a summer, iirc, but that
has gradually gotten more frequent. Even though just 5 years ago, it
lasted for 2 months once, even then it was usually every 2 weeks, and
now it is every day or two.

What oil should I be using? It has no oil ports, unless you call the
hole in the case right next to the shaft a port. At the other end,
with the blade, I have to tip the motor face up and use a long spout
oil bottle to place oil right where the shaft comes out of the
bearing.

When it needs oil, over the course of an hour or two, it gradually
slows to a stop, and the motor itself gets hot, and because I"ve been
sleeping, I think I've let it stay stopped and hot for hours. But
when oiled again, it seems to run just fine. I suppose it's too old
to have oil-impregnated bearings. (When did those come out?)

I've used 3-in-1 oil, SAE 20, 10W-30**, and I'm wondering if I should
use thicker or thinner. Should I use gear lube (SAE 90 iirc) or try
to find something in the middle like SAE 60***. Is sewing machine oil
thinner than SAE 20 and 3-in-1? At any rate, I have some thin oil in
a clear plastic tube, with a 2mm tube for applying it.

I know I could try every one of these but I need some encouragement.

I encourage you to replace the bearings.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

I agree with flush, and reoil. I'd have said spray can of brake cleaner, to
clear the old junk out. And then ND-30 to relube. It needs to be non
detergent oil.

If you can unbolt, and get the fan apart, that will help clear out the old
oil.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Mr.E" wrote in message
...

Try PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench once or twice to flush out the goo,
then 20w oil should be fine.
--
Mr.E

First step is to flush out the old oil. The old oil is most of your problem.
I'd have said spray can of brake cleaner, to clear the old junk out. The non
flammable stuff is safer for electrical equipment.

And then ND-30 motor oil to relube. It needs to be non detergent oil. Also
good is "zoom spout turbine oil" which is much the same. ND 20 or ND30.

If you can unbolt, and get the fan apart, that will help clear out the old
oil. Be generous with the flush stage, it's good to get as much of the old
oil out, as you can.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"micky" wrote in message
...
What kind of oil should I use?

I have an old fan that looks like it came off of some factory
machinery.

I've had it for 30 years, but I think it's 50 to 90 years old. ??
It still looks original. (though the blade used to slip a lot, and
took 60 seconds to catch up to the speed of the shaft, until I glued
the two pieces together)

It used to be it only required oiling once a summer, iirc, but that
has gradually gotten more frequent. Even though just 5 years ago, it
lasted for 2 months once, even then it was usually every 2 weeks, and
now it is every day or two.

What oil should I be using? It has no oil ports, unless you call the
hole in the case right next to the shaft a port. At the other end,
with the blade, I have to tip the motor face up and use a long spout
oil bottle to place oil right where the shaft comes out of the
bearing.

When it needs oil, over the course of an hour or two, it gradually
slows to a stop, and the motor itself gets hot, and because I"ve been
sleeping, I think I've let it stay stopped and hot for hours. But
when oiled again, it seems to run just fine. I suppose it's too old
to have oil-impregnated bearings. (When did those come out?)

I've used 3-in-1 oil, SAE 20, 10W-30**, and I'm wondering if I should
use thicker or thinner. Should I use gear lube (SAE 90 iirc) or try
to find something in the middle like SAE 60***. Is sewing machine oil
thinner than SAE 20 and 3-in-1? At any rate, I have some thin oil in
a clear plastic tube, with a 2mm tube for applying it.

I know I could try every one of these but I need some encouragement.


**Yes I know the additives aren't needed, but at first it seemed to
work better than other oils.

***I could buy a quart of 10W-50 for the car and use some of that.

Please don't tell me to throw the fan away. The only alternative to
better oil is oiling it every day. Last year I got a bigger fan
with 3 speeds that does a wonderful job keeping me cool all night, but
I still want this one, which is the only one small enough to fit on my
window sill, right next to my bed and my head, and which I can turn on
or off just by lifting my arm to the switch on the cord. . I could
nail a shefl to the sill and use a bigger fan, but I'd rather oil it
every night before I go to bed. I keep looking for a simlar fan,
including ebay, but no luck. And if I did buy one, I'd still have to
fix this one.


Thanks.

Unrelated to my qusetion, I think, It's all metal, all black enamel
except the blade and the wire grill around it. It has a thin,flat base
4 or 5 inches square, with holes at each corner, which I think held
screws or rivets that held it to the machinery, or maybe a tractor or
fork-lift if they had fans so long ago. From the base is a mini I
beam going up to hold a motor a little bigger than 2 decks of cards,
on on top of the other. The shaft is closer to one end of the
rectangle. The wire screen is barely any protection from sticking my
fingers in the path of hte blade. It has one blade, or two if you
count both ends. It certainly doesn't oscillate.

micky,

I agree with dadiOH. Look at the bearings. Be warned that replacing the
bearings can be expensive. Often a new motor is cheaper.
Look in your local phonebook for a listing of electric motor shops. Large
cities have such shops

Dave M.

With all the *** oils he's been using, I'm guessing that's most of his
problem.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Dave M." wrote in message
...
micky,

I agree with dadiOH. Look at the bearings. Be warned that replacing the
bearings can be expensive. Often a new motor is cheaper.
Look in your local phonebook for a listing of electric motor shops. Large
cities have such shops

Dave M.

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 12:47:36 -0400, "Dave M."
wrote:

micky,

I agree with dadiOH. Look at the bearings. Be warned that replacing the
bearings can be expensive. Often a new motor is cheaper.

That's not a bad idea, a new motor. This was certainly a standard
motor, at least it was 50 years ago, but they might well still sell
it. .

What other descriptive words apply to a motor like I have? It would
help me shop.

The motor is shaped like a cheese sandwich with 1/3 of it cut off.
It's about an inch thick, 2 or 2.25 inches wide, and 3.5 to 4 inches
long, has a bunch of air slots, and has the shaft about an inch from
the end, coming out the bread rather than the crust or between the
slices.

I think that means there is a winding at the other end, wound around a
laminated C where the ends of the C go around something in the
armature.

Is it called an induction motor? Shaded pole?

Actually, it looks something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Airp...em3f1a4d 533b
A better picture half-way down

(I could buy this one, which I just found,, I suppose, but then I'll
have two and one will still be broken, Maybe I have time to
websearch and go to the motor store before the auction ends tomorrow
night. )



Look in your local phonebook for a listing of electric motor shops. Large
cities have such shops

There are two such stores here. One is called Electric Motor Repair,
just so I won't forget i's name. For the other, I'll need the phone
book.

Dave M.

On Jul 30, 12:47*pm, "Dave M." wrote:
micky,

* *I agree with dadiOH. Look at the bearings. Be warned that replacing the
bearings can be expensive. Often a new motor is cheaper.
* *Look in your local phonebook for a listing of electric motor shops.. Large
cities have such shops

Dave M.

I know he doesn't want to hear it, but give that it's a
window fan I would just chuck it. Or get a new motor.
But given that when it seizes up it gets hot, how
lucky does he feel? He's been lubing it up with oil
and I have visions of the thing catching fire and
burning the house down....

Multiple doses of oils that are famous for gumming up. I'm guessing he's
got enough gummy oil to give Wrigleys Spearmint a run for their money.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

lucky does he feel? He's been lubing it up with oil
and I have visions of the thing catching fire and
burning the house down....

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 16:26:09 -0400, micky
wrote:


Actually, it looks something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Airp...em3f1a4d 533b
A better picture half-way down

(I could buy this one, which I just found,, I suppose, but then I'll
have two and one will still be broken, Maybe I have time to
websearch and go to the motor store before the auction ends tomorrow
night. )



Buy the one on Ebay, save the housing and blade (if it comes off after
the glue), and toss that old motor. Obviously the motor is shot or at
least the bearings. A rebuild would cost a lot of money. You can get a
motor for almost anything at Grainger.com, but it will be costly.
Sometimes you just have to give up on something, and it soulds like
you're risking a house fire, or at least stinky smoke damage if the
motor burns up. Any motor that needs oil daily is shot, and the
overheating is scary and dangerous. Even bad bearings should not need
oil that often, so the motor windings are probably weak and have shorted
coils.

Why risk it?

I agree that old stuff is made better than modern plastic crap, but
everything dies sooner or later. This fan sounds like it's dying
quickly......

Replace it!!!!

On Wed, 01 Aug 2012 00:59:09 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 16:26:09 -0400, micky
wrote:


Actually, it looks something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Airp...em3f1a4d 533b
A better picture half-way down

(I could buy this one, which I just found,, I suppose, but then I'll
have two and one will still be broken, Maybe I have time to
websearch and go to the motor store before the auction ends tomorrow
night. )



Buy the one on Ebay, save the housing and blade (if it comes off after

Well, the price went up to 83 dollars counting shipping. Too much
for me.

the glue), and toss that old motor. Obviously the motor is shot or at
least the bearings. A rebuild would cost a lot of money. You can get a
motor for almost anything at Grainger.com, but it will be costly.
Sometimes you just have to give up on something, and it soulds like
you're risking a house fire, or at least stinky smoke damage if the
motor burns up. Any motor that needs oil daily is shot, and the
overheating is scary and dangerous. Even bad bearings should not need
oil that often, so the motor windings are probably weak and have shorted
coils.

Why risk it?

I agree that old stuff is made better than modern plastic crap, but
everything dies sooner or later. This fan sounds like it's dying
quickly......

Replace it!!!!

You make some good points. Given that you grew up with cavemen, I'm
impressed by your knowledge of electicity. Thanks for your reply.

I haven't tried cleaning it with liquid wrench yet, so I'll try that
first, and maybe it will go back to once a year oiling. . (BTW, Mr.
E. I have another fan that stopped spinning. My father's fan, that
was made in the '20's or 30's, and that he last used in 1955, stopped
working for me about 1990. I only oiled that a couple times, in the 5
or 10 years I used it, until it started giving problems. It has
bearings that were sphere shaped on the outside, so they could pint in
any direction, and I thought they weren't pointed right, but
eventually I gave up.

Who knows how many times my father oiled it. So, that fan is sitting
a yard from me now, and I will see if Liquid Wrench helps it. It has
two speeds.

I've had excellent results with the technique I described.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"micky" wrote in message
...

Buy the one on Ebay, save the housing and blade (if it comes off after

Well, the price went up to 83 dollars counting shipping. Too much
for me.

Who knows how many times my father oiled it. So, that fan is sitting
a yard from me now, and I will see if Liquid Wrench helps it. It has
two speeds.

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 12:08:43 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I agree with flush, and reoil. I'd have said spray can of brake cleaner, to
clear the old junk out. And then ND-30 to relube. It needs to be non
detergent oil

Why does it need to be non-detergent oil? How does the detergent hurt
anything?

Detergent allows the oil to absorb moisture from the air. Which corrodes the
steel surfaces. Not an issue in car engines, cause the engines get hot
enough to drive the water out. Motors don't get hot enough (we hope).

Thanks for a thoughtful question.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Ashton Crusher" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 12:08:43 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I agree with flush, and reoil. I'd have said spray can of brake cleaner, to
clear the old junk out. And then ND-30 to relube. It needs to be non
detergent oil

Why does it need to be non-detergent oil? How does the detergent hurt
anything?

On Sat, 04 Aug 2012 17:26:57 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote in Re What oil
should I use?:

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 12:08:43 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I agree with flush, and reoil. I'd have said spray can of brake cleaner, to
clear the old junk out. And then ND-30 to relube. It needs to be non
detergent oil

Why does it need to be non-detergent oil? How does the detergent hurt
anything?

Good question. I've always wondered about that myself.

Detergent allows the oil to absorb moisture from the air. Which corrodes the
steel surfaces. Not an issue in car engines, cause the engines get hot
enough to drive the water out. Motors don't get hot enough (we hope).

Thanks for a thoughtful question.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"CRNG" wrote in message
news
Why does it need to be non-detergent oil?
How does the detergent hurt
anything?

Good question. I've always wondered about that myself.

Makes sense. Thanks


On Sat, 4 Aug 2012 20:35:51 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Detergent allows the oil to absorb moisture from the air. Which corrodes the
steel surfaces. Not an issue in car engines, cause the engines get hot
enough to drive the water out. Motors don't get hot enough (we hope).

Thanks for a thoughtful question.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Ashton Crusher" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 12:08:43 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I agree with flush, and reoil. I'd have said spray can of brake cleaner, to
clear the old junk out. And then ND-30 to relube. It needs to be non
detergent oil

Why does it need to be non-detergent oil? How does the detergent hurt
anything?