On 5/15/2016 1:48 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2016 12:34:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Jon, how did you modify the brake and kill system on yours? My Tecumseh is the same way.

Tools?


not me. I just wrapped some copper wire around the "dead man" bar.

On Sun, 15 May 2016 13:48:37 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 15 May 2016 12:34:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Jon, how did you modify the brake and kill system on yours? My Tecumseh is the same way.

Tools?

Did you just call me a tool?!

On Sun, 15 May 2016 12:34:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Jon, how did you modify the brake and kill system on yours? My Tecumseh is the same way.

The same way as what? In what way? When you google people going to
learn to quote what you're replying to or to write a decent post?

Gordon Shumway posted for all of us...



On Sun, 15 May 2016 13:48:37 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 15 May 2016 12:34:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Jon, how did you modify the brake and kill system on yours? My Tecumseh is the same way.

Tools?

Did you just call me a tool?!

Be proud of your tool. Are you a tool for the good orrrr the dark side?
Everyone here is tool; either for enlightenment or a nut twister.

--
Tekkie

Take the fuel tank and air filter housing off. To hell with draining the fuel it's too expensive.
Remove the metal shroud from over top the flywheel. it might look like there is more to it than just the screws you can see. But the metal screen in the middle of the flywheel shroud (cover) is usually pretty thin and you can work the shroud out from around it and not damage the metal screen. It's pretty self explanatory how to straighten it out again.
Then from the handle follow the cable it controls to the engine. It will be attached to a bracket and it controls another piece of metal that when you squeeze the handle it pushes into yet another piece of metal that touches the side of the flywheel and in turn grounds out the electrical circuit and kills the fire to the spark plug. That piece that touches the flywheel Will get stuck inside of a slot between the two magnets on the flywheel that's the break. remove the screw from the break and the break will come off that will fix it so it doesn't shut off.

In order to cut the mower off without letting it run out of gas you need to do a little redneck riggin.
First take the moving parts off all the brackets I mentioned earlier. Mainly the break it's self and the spring attached to it. Remove the arm on the bracket that the cable controls or just take the whole assembly off as long as it doesn't interfere with any other engine components. The thin piece of copper on that bracket needs to be taken off and the wire that is attached to it don't destroy the wire.

If you don't know what the coil/magneto is it is the sort of u shaped thing directly next to the flywheel and should have two wires coming out of it.
the big wire goes straight to the spark plug leave it there.
Follow the small wire from the coil to the end. make the wire longer by putting more on it try to use the same gauge wire if possible.
Then you can run it down to the mower deck and attach it somehow so that the wire doesn't ground out when you don't want it to.
Then all you have to do is a reach down and hold the wire to the mower deck till it stops running.
If you want a manual kill switch you can run that small wire to the top of the handle and attach a toggle switch to it and on the other wire on the switch run a wire back down the handle and attach it to the mower deck ( pre drill a hole and wrap the wire around a screw and tighten it).
Flip the switch and it cuts off.

On 7/18/2016 3:10 AM, wrote:
Take the fuel tank and air filter housing off. To
hell with draining the fuel it's too expensive.
Remove the metal shroud from over top the flywheel.
it might look like there is more to it than just the
screws you can see. But the metal screen in the middle
of the flywheel shroud (cover) is usually pretty thin
and you can work the shroud out from around it and
not damage the metal screen. It's pretty self
explanatory how to straighten it out again.
Then from the handle follow the cable it controls
to the engine. It will be attached to a bracket and
it controls another piece of metal that when you
squeeze the handle it pushes into yet another piece
of metal that touches the side of the flywheel and
in turn grounds out the electrical circuit and kills
the fire to the spark plug. That piece that touches
the flywheel Will get stuck inside of a slot between
the two magnets on the flywheel that's the break.
remove the screw from the break and the break will
come off that will fix it so it doesn't shut off.

In order to cut the mower off without letting
it run out of gas you need to do a little redneck
riggin.
First take the moving parts off all the brackets
I mentioned earlier. Mainly the break it's self and
the spring attached to it. Remove the arm on the
bracket that the cable controls or just take the
whole assembly off as long as it doesn't interfere
with any other engine components. The thin piece of
copper on that bracket needs to be taken off and the
wire that is attached to it don't destroy the wire.

If you don't know what the coil/magneto is it
is the sort of u shaped thing directly next to
the flywheel and should have two wires coming
out of it.
the big wire goes straight to the spark plug
leave it there.
Follow the small wire from the coil to the end.
make the wire longer by putting more on it try to
use the same gauge wire if possible.
Then you can run it down to the mower deck and
attach it somehow so that the wire doesn't ground
out when you don't want it to.
Then all you have to do is a reach down and hold
the wire to the mower deck till it stops running.
If you want a manual kill switch you can run that
small wire to the top of the handle and attach a
toggle switch to it and on the other wire on the
switch run a wire back down the handle and attach
it to the mower deck ( pre drill a hole and wrap
the wire around a screw and tighten it).
Flip the switch and it cuts off.


It's been a long time since I worked on a walk behind
mower with a mechanical brake. I remember being told
to lift the safety handle just enough so the electric
system turns off, but not enough so the brake activates.
If yours is like this, there is already an electrical
shut off.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Mon, 18 Jul 2016 07:11:38 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 7/18/2016 3:10 AM, wrote:
Take the fuel tank and air filter housing off. To
hell with draining the fuel it's too expensive.
Remove the metal shroud from over top the flywheel.
it might look like there is more to it than just the
screws you can see. But the metal screen in the middle
of the flywheel shroud (cover) is usually pretty thin
and you can work the shroud out from around it and
not damage the metal screen. It's pretty self
explanatory how to straighten it out again.
Then from the handle follow the cable it controls
to the engine. It will be attached to a bracket and
it controls another piece of metal that when you
squeeze the handle it pushes into yet another piece
of metal that touches the side of the flywheel and
in turn grounds out the electrical circuit and kills
the fire to the spark plug. That piece that touches
the flywheel Will get stuck inside of a slot between
the two magnets on the flywheel that's the break.
remove the screw from the break and the break will
come off that will fix it so it doesn't shut off.

In order to cut the mower off without letting
it run out of gas you need to do a little redneck
riggin.
First take the moving parts off all the brackets
I mentioned earlier. Mainly the break it's self and
the spring attached to it. Remove the arm on the
bracket that the cable controls or just take the
whole assembly off as long as it doesn't interfere
with any other engine components. The thin piece of
copper on that bracket needs to be taken off and the
wire that is attached to it don't destroy the wire.

If you don't know what the coil/magneto is it
is the sort of u shaped thing directly next to
the flywheel and should have two wires coming
out of it.
the big wire goes straight to the spark plug
leave it there.
Follow the small wire from the coil to the end.
make the wire longer by putting more on it try to
use the same gauge wire if possible.
Then you can run it down to the mower deck and
attach it somehow so that the wire doesn't ground
out when you don't want it to.
Then all you have to do is a reach down and hold
the wire to the mower deck till it stops running.
If you want a manual kill switch you can run that
small wire to the top of the handle and attach a
toggle switch to it and on the other wire on the
switch run a wire back down the handle and attach
it to the mower deck ( pre drill a hole and wrap
the wire around a screw and tighten it).
Flip the switch and it cuts off.


It's been a long time since I worked on a walk behind
mower with a mechanical brake. I remember being told
to lift the safety handle just enough so the electric
system turns off, but not enough so the brake activates.
If yours is like this, there is already an electrical
shut off.
ALL lawnmowers with safety brakes have ekectrical shutoffs.

On 7/18/2016 8:04 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jul 2016 07:11:38 -0400, Stormin Mormon
It's been a long time since I worked on a walk behind
mower with a mechanical brake. I remember being told
to lift the safety handle just enough so the electric
system turns off, but not enough so the brake activates.
If yours is like this, there is already an electrical
shut off.
ALL lawnmowers with safety brakes have ekectrical shutoffs.


That helps clear up my ignorance and confusion. Thanks.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Does anybody know why it's so hard to turn the motor on a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower

wrote:
Does anybody know why it's so hard to turn the motor on a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower

Easy--compression. Remove the spark plug and you'll likely notice a big
difference!

hard as in almost impossible or heavy drag?

Sounds to me like your flywheel brake is engaged.

On Thu, 11 May 2017 18:35:53 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Does anybody know why it's so hard to turn the motor on a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower
Likely because the blade brake is on?

On Thu, 11 May 2017 21:55:07 -0400, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
Does anybody know why it's so hard to turn the motor on a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower

Easy--compression. Remove the spark plug and you'll likely notice a big
difference!
Not if the handle isn't pulled to the run position and the blade
brake is on. Any lawn mower with the briggs and stratton name on the
mowwr - not the engine - was made since blade brakes have been
mandatory.

wrote:
On Thu, 11 May 2017 21:55:07 -0400, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
Does anybody know why it's so hard to turn the motor on a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower
Easy--compression. Remove the spark plug and you'll likely notice a big
difference!
Not if the handle isn't pulled to the run position and the blade
brake is on. Any lawn mower with the briggs and stratton name on the
mowwr - not the engine - was made since blade brakes have been
mandatory.

That's interesting to know. At least my suggestion would have provided
additional information about the problem (when it was difficult to pull
the cord without a sparkplug...) ; )

On Thu, 11 May 2017 18:35:53 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Does anybody know why it's so hard to turn the motor on a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower

Did you overfill it with oil?

Just take the blower housing off and completely remove the flywheel break. It completely defeats the purpose of that cord and you'll just have to pull the boot off the spark plug to kill the engine.

replying to fred.flintstone, richie rae wrote:
you can control the on /off with trolle back to start off forward to turn on.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ly-702883-.htm

richie rae posted for all of us...



replying to fred.flintstone, richie rae wrote:
you can control the on /off with trolle back to start off forward to turn on.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ly-702883-.htm

Huh?

--
Tekkie

I care cuz i have the same problem and came here for info