I noticed now on two toilets when I replaced the guts, that the water
supply shut off valve below the toilet didn't completely shut off the
water. I'd say it shut it off like 99.8% so you could see a tiny
amount of water still on. Now when it's connected to the toilet (in
my case two of them), no leakage. Of course the valve is open when
connected to the toilets. These valves are original with house (14
yrs old) with plastic handles so I expect not the best quality. Should
I replace them or leave it alone? I expect to be in the house at
least 5 to 10 more years. Also can these cheaper valves be rebuilt or
best to just replace? If I get a plumber to do it, I suppose they
will just want to replace them? Any idea what they charge in
Houston, Texas? Advice?

On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 13:55:14 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:

I noticed now on two toilets when I replaced the guts, that the water
supply shut off valve below the toilet didn't completely shut off the
water. I'd say it shut it off like 99.8% so you could see a tiny
amount of water still on. Now when it's connected to the toilet (in
my case two of them), no leakage. Of course the valve is open when
connected to the toilets. These valves are original with house (14
yrs old) with plastic handles so I expect not the best quality. Should
I replace them or leave it alone? I expect to be in the house at
least 5 to 10 more years. Also can these cheaper valves be rebuilt or
best to just replace? If I get a plumber to do it, I suppose they
will just want to replace them? Any idea what they charge in
Houston, Texas? Advice?

If there is no leak I would not worry at the moment.

In the future I would suggest replacing the valve with a "Angle Stop
Valve - 1/4 Turn ball valve". Watts brand are an excellent choice.
(found at homer depot)

Is your valve connected to the water line by sweating copper or
compression fitting?

Just get the correct size and connection method. 1/4 turn and the
water is off. I've added ball valves to my water heater shut off
(added inline) and to my hose bib is a 1/4 turn (when replaced).

On Jun 5, 2:55*pm, "Doug" wrote:
I noticed now on two toilets when I replaced the guts, that the water
supply shut off valve below the toilet didn't completely shut off the
water. *I'd say it shut it off like 99.8% so you could see a tiny
amount of water still on. *Now when it's connected to the toilet (in
my case two of them), no leakage. *Of course the valve is open when
connected to the toilets. * These valves are original with house (14
yrs old) with plastic handles so I expect not the best quality. Should
I replace them or leave it alone? *I expect to be in the house at
least 5 to 10 more years. *Also can these cheaper valves be rebuilt or
best to just replace? * If I get a plumber to do it, I suppose they
will just want to replace them? * Any idea what they charge in
Houston, Texas? * *Advice?

It will only be a problem if you ever need to *really* shut off the
toilets, like during a remodel or replacement project where the only
thing left will be the shut off or shut off and supply hose. You'll
either need to find a way to cap the shut off/hose or find a way to
collect the water.

This might be a great time to hone your DIY skills. Shut off the main
to the house and replace the shut offs yourself. If you can replace
the innards of a toilet without any problems, then you got *some* DIY
skills. Practice on the workbench if you want to build your
confidence. I'd hate to have you pay a plumber for what should be a
fairly simple job.

P.S. I say "should be a simple job" knowing full well that even the
simplest of plumbing repairs can be troublesome. BTDT. Since I can't
see the job from where I'm sitting, I have to leave it up to you to
decide if you want to tackle it.

On 6/5/2012 2:55 PM, Doug wrote:
I noticed now on two toilets when I replaced the guts, that the water
supply shut off valve below the toilet didn't completely shut off the
water. I'd say it shut it off like 99.8% so you could see a tiny
amount of water still on. Now when it's connected to the toilet (in
my case two of them), no leakage. Of course the valve is open when
connected to the toilets. These valves are original with house (14
yrs old) with plastic handles so I expect not the best quality. Should
I replace them or leave it alone? I expect to be in the house at
least 5 to 10 more years. Also can these cheaper valves be rebuilt or
best to just replace? If I get a plumber to do it, I suppose they
will just want to replace them? Any idea what they charge in
Houston, Texas? Advice?

What I might do is buy a replacement valve to have on hand in case I
need it and do the job myself. I had a leak in a valve itself here and
had to run out right before the remnants of a hurricane came through
last year. Then I mistakenly bought the wrong valve so I had to
tolerate the leak until the next day.

Getting old, I hire a plumber to do most of my work. I don't think he
even comes to the house for less than $50 than the charge is about
$80/hr. Cost of parts are insignificant.

On Jun 5, 11:55*am, "Doug" wrote:
I noticed now on two toilets when I replaced the guts, that the water
supply shut off valve below the toilet didn't completely shut off the
water. *I'd say it shut it off like 99.8% so you could see a tiny
amount of water still on. *Now when it's connected to the toilet (in
my case two of them), no leakage. *Of course the valve is open when
connected to the toilets. * These valves are original with house (14
yrs old) with plastic handles so I expect not the best quality. Should
I replace them or leave it alone? *I expect to be in the house at
least 5 to 10 more years. *Also can these cheaper valves be rebuilt or
best to just replace? * If I get a plumber to do it, I suppose they
will just want to replace them? * Any idea what they charge in
Houston, Texas? * *Advice?

What you should really be asking is: What will you do if while trying
to remove the old valve the nipple holding it is rusted and breaks
with a part of it still stuck inside the elbow in the wall?

Doug wrote "should I be concerned" in the subject line.

Yes, I would be concerned.

I'd be concerned that nobody would read my post, because I asked a
stupid-ass question in the subject line, giving the reader absolutely no
idea what my post is about.

On Jun 5, 4:46*pm, Home Guy wrote:
Doug wrote "should I be concerned" in the subject line.

Yes, I would be concerned.

I'd be concerned that nobody would read my post, because I asked a
stupid-ass question in the subject line, giving the reader absolutely no
idea what my post is about.

Give the guy a break, he is obviously new to this. Just let him know
politely netiquette and then blast him if he does it again. You were
younger and newer at one time (I hope)

On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 13:55:14 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:

I noticed now on two toilets when I replaced the guts, that the water
supply shut off valve below the toilet didn't completely shut off the
water. I'd say it shut it off like 99.8% so you could see a tiny
amount of water still on. Now when it's connected to the toilet (in
my case two of them), no leakage. Of course the valve is open when
connected to the toilets. These valves are original with house (14
yrs old) with plastic handles so I expect not the best quality. Should
I replace them or leave it alone? I expect to be in the house at
least 5 to 10 more years. Also can these cheaper valves be rebuilt or
best to just replace? If I get a plumber to do it, I suppose they
will just want to replace them? Any idea what they charge in
Houston, Texas? Advice?

No. Didn't you just replace the guts on 2 toilets with no problem?
Old valves often leak through worse than yours.
If you want to get all anal about it, shut off the valve leading to
the toilet valve. That might leak through even worse.
Then you can get even more "concerned." (-:

--
Vic

On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 17:46:17 -0400, Home Guy wrote:

Doug wrote "should I be concerned" in the subject line.

Yes, I would be concerned.

I'd be concerned that nobody would read my post, because I asked a
stupid-ass question in the subject line, giving the reader absolutely no
idea what my post is about.

Doug,

Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.

Home Guy you are an absolute idiot, as I've already pointed out to
your limited, self absorbed mind.

In article , Home Guy wrote:

Doug wrote "should I be concerned" in the subject line.

Yes, I would be concerned.

I'd be concerned that nobody would read my post, because I asked a
stupid-ass question in the subject line, giving the reader absolutely no
idea what my post is about.

since you've read the post, that must make you a stupid-ass reader, yes?

On Tue, 5 Jun 2012 15:24:36 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Jun 5, 4:46*pm, Home Guy wrote:
Doug wrote "should I be concerned" in the subject line.

Yes, I would be concerned.

I'd be concerned that nobody would read my post, because I asked a
stupid-ass question in the subject line, giving the reader absolutely no
idea what my post is about.

Give the guy a break, he is obviously new to this. Just let him know
politely netiquette and then blast him if he does it again. You were
younger and newer at one time (I hope)

Did you know some people here have underwear older than Home Guy?

You can't make this stuff up.... it's the truth.

Doug is a nice guy, deserving decent respect.

On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 17:00:11 -0700, "Malcom \"Mal\" Reynolds"
wrote:

In article , Home Guy wrote:

Doug wrote "should I be concerned" in the subject line.

Yes, I would be concerned.

I'd be concerned that nobody would read my post, because I asked a
stupid-ass question in the subject line, giving the reader absolutely no
idea what my post is about.

since you've read the post, that must make you a stupid-ass reader, yes?

The honest answer is YES.

On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 17:46:17 -0400, Home Guy wrote:

Doug wrote "should I be concerned" in the subject line.

Yes, I would be concerned.

I'd be concerned that nobody would read my post, because I asked a
stupid-ass question in the subject line, giving the reader absolutely no
idea what my post is about.


Are you the self appointed moderator here? Feel free to skip my
posts.

On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 15:30:13 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 17:46:17 -0400, Home Guy wrote:

Doug wrote "should I be concerned" in the subject line.

Yes, I would be concerned.

I'd be concerned that nobody would read my post, because I asked a
stupid-ass question in the subject line, giving the reader absolutely no
idea what my post is about.

Doug,

Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.

-snip-


I sorta came to this conclusion Oren. Thank you !!

On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 17:25:15 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 13:55:14 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:

I noticed now on two toilets when I replaced the guts, that the water
supply shut off valve below the toilet didn't completely shut off the
water. I'd say it shut it off like 99.8% so you could see a tiny
amount of water still on. Now when it's connected to the toilet (in
my case two of them), no leakage. Of course the valve is open when
connected to the toilets. These valves are original with house (14
yrs old) with plastic handles so I expect not the best quality. Should
I replace them or leave it alone? I expect to be in the house at
least 5 to 10 more years. Also can these cheaper valves be rebuilt or
best to just replace? If I get a plumber to do it, I suppose they
will just want to replace them? Any idea what they charge in
Houston, Texas? Advice?

No. Didn't you just replace the guts on 2 toilets with no problem?
Old valves often leak through worse than yours.
If you want to get all anal about it, shut off the valve leading to
the toilet valve. That might leak through even worse.
Then you can get even more "concerned." (-:


Correct Vic, I didn't really have much problem replacing the guts but
I had a small plastic container to collect the slight water coming
thru the supply line while I replaced the inside guts. Of course once
I reconnected the supply line and opened the valve, no leakage or
problem.

You remind me what my dad use to say (he was extremely handy but he
also was a builder too, I'm not), he said to me ... "don't fix it
unless it's broke". Maybe I'm not listening well

On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 12:27:06 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 13:55:14 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:

I noticed now on two toilets when I replaced the guts, that the water
supply shut off valve below the toilet didn't completely shut off the
water. I'd say it shut it off like 99.8% so you could see a tiny
amount of water still on. Now when it's connected to the toilet (in
my case two of them), no leakage. Of course the valve is open when
connected to the toilets. These valves are original with house (14
yrs old) with plastic handles so I expect not the best quality. Should
I replace them or leave it alone? I expect to be in the house at
least 5 to 10 more years. Also can these cheaper valves be rebuilt or
best to just replace? If I get a plumber to do it, I suppose they
will just want to replace them? Any idea what they charge in
Houston, Texas? Advice?

If there is no leak I would not worry at the moment.

In the future I would suggest replacing the valve with a "Angle Stop
Valve - 1/4 Turn ball valve". Watts brand are an excellent choice.
(found at homer depot)

Is your valve connected to the water line by sweating copper or
compression fitting?

I was wondering the same thing... let me see real quick if I can tell.
Ok, I think it's a compression fitting because I see a nut. See these
pics (of one toilet but I think it's the same in the entire house)
here....
http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/

I pulled the little round face plate away from the wall just to show
how it looks at the wall.

I guess I'll leave it alone since I was told when I was young by my
dad... if it's not broke, don't fix it. I am curious tho, do I need
two wrenches to undo it... one on the back nut (closest to the wall)
and when where the supply line attaches to the valve? Thanks.




Just get the correct size and connection method. 1/4 turn and the
water is off. I've added ball valves to my water heater shut off
(added inline) and to my hose bib is a 1/4 turn (when replaced).


You sound handy g !!!

Doug wrote:

Are you the self appointed moderator here? Feel free to skip my
posts.

Obviously there is no moderator.

I'm only pointing out how you could have made better use of the subject
line.

That's what that line is for.

If you want to be an ass and ridicule my reply - that's your choice.

On Jun 6, 5:53*am, Home Guy wrote:
Doug wrote:
Are you the self appointed moderator here? * Feel free to skip my
posts.

Obviously there is no moderator.

I'm only pointing out how you could have made better use of the subject
line.

That's what that line is for.

If you want to be an ass and ridicule my reply - that's your choice.

I you didnt' want to be an ass, you could have made your point
_politely_.

Harry K

On Jun 6, 5:52*am, "Doug" wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 12:27:06 -0700, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 13:55:14 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:

I noticed now on two toilets when I replaced the guts, that the water
supply shut off valve below the toilet didn't completely shut off the
water. *I'd say it shut it off like 99.8% so you could see a tiny
amount of water still on. *Now when it's connected to the toilet (in
my case two of them), no leakage. *Of course the valve is open when
connected to the toilets. * These valves are original with house (14
yrs old) with plastic handles so I expect not the best quality. Should
I replace them or leave it alone? *I expect to be in the house at
least 5 to 10 more years. *Also can these cheaper valves be rebuilt or
best to just replace? * If I get a plumber to do it, I suppose they
will just want to replace them? * Any idea what they charge in
Houston, Texas? * *Advice?

If there is no leak I would not worry at the moment.

In the future I would suggest replacing the valve with a "Angle Stop
Valve - 1/4 Turn ball valve". Watts brand are an excellent choice.
(found at homer depot)

Is your valve connected to the water line by sweating copper or
compression fitting?

I was wondering the same thing... let me see real quick if I can tell.
Ok, I think it's a compression fitting because I see a nut. *See these
pics (of one toilet but I think it's the same in the entire house)
here....http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/

I pulled the little round face plate away from the wall just to show
how it looks at the wall.

I guess I'll leave it alone since I was told when I was young by my
dad... if it's not broke, don't fix it. * I am curious tho, do I need
two wrenches to undo it... one on the back nut (closest to the wall)
and when where the supply line attaches to the valve? * Thanks.



Just get the correct size and connection method. 1/4 turn and the
water is off. *I've added ball valves to my water heater shut off
(added inline) *and to my hose bib is a 1/4 turn (when replaced).

You sound handy g *!!!

You will need a ferule puller to remove it and then hope that the new
ferule holds tight and doesn't come-off when you're not home. I don't
trust compression fittings. Be best if you solder a MIP adapter on to
the end.