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Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
Drained my pool to clean it up and may as well fix a long-time leak in a
Jandy valve that is very hard to get to. Here's a picture of the pumps with the dozen Jandy valves scattered about: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8198286.jpg And, here's the problem Jandy valve: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8198320.jpg Looking at how extremely tightly packed the pipes and valves are, I wonder if anyone can repair anything on a pool. Do they normally pack them in this tightly (there was plenty of room to spread it out!) How can I fix this? |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Sun, 6 May 2012 10:52:55 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
wrote: Drained my pool to clean it up and may as well fix a long-time leak in a Jandy valve that is very hard to get to. Here's a picture of the pumps with the dozen Jandy valves scattered about: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8198286.jpg And, here's the problem Jandy valve: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8198320.jpg Looking at how extremely tightly packed the pipes and valves are, I wonder if anyone can repair anything on a pool. Do they normally pack them in this tightly (there was plenty of room to spread it out!) How can I fix this? Put a tic mark on the housing so you know how to re-install the parts again. Generally, the only repairs are just replacing the O-rings (3) and lube them. If the housing is cracked then you would need to replace. A local pool supply will have a small package of O-rings. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On May 6, 10:05*am, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 6 May 2012 10:52:55 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K." wrote: Drained my pool to clean it up and may as well fix a long-time leak in a Jandy valve that is very hard to get to. Here's a picture of the pumps with the dozen Jandy valves scattered about: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8198286.jpg And, here's the problem Jandy valve: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8198320.jpg Looking at how extremely tightly packed the pipes and valves are, I wonder if anyone can repair anything on a pool. Do they normally pack them in this tightly (there was plenty of room to spread it out!) How can I fix this? Put a tic mark on the housing so you know how to re-install the parts again. *Generally, the only repairs are just replacing the O-rings (3) and lube them. *If the housing is cracked then you would need to replace. A local pool supply will have a small package of O-rings. What is missing is what's wrong with the valve. If a seal is leaking, then per the above you can take it apart and rebuild it. If it's cracked from freezing, then it's kaput. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On 5/6/2012 5:52 AM, Arklin K. wrote:
Drained my pool to clean it up and may as well fix a long-time leak in a Jandy valve that is very hard to get to. Here's a picture of the pumps with the dozen Jandy valves scattered about: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8198286.jpg And, here's the problem Jandy valve: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8198320.jpg Looking at how extremely tightly packed the pipes and valves are, I wonder if anyone can repair anything on a pool. Do they normally pack them in this tightly (there was plenty of room to spread it out!) How can I fix this? The screws on the cover come off and they are pretty easy to fix. http://redsquarepools.files.wordpres...arts.gif?w=560 This one may not be the right one but just do a image search for the right one: "jandy valve blow up". I think they are all basically the same. The pool store should have all the parts. Yeah, that is tight. One think I noticed it the exposure. I'd build a *well ventilated* covering for it. The sun and elements are going to cost you down the road. Don't build anything tight around the heater though. I'd make a small shed like structure. Or a "lean-to". |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On 5/6/2012 10:19 AM, gonjah wrote:
On 5/6/2012 5:52 AM, Arklin K. wrote: Drained my pool to clean it up and may as well fix a long-time leak in a Jandy valve that is very hard to get to. Here's a picture of the pumps with the dozen Jandy valves scattered about: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8198286.jpg And, here's the problem Jandy valve: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8198320.jpg Looking at how extremely tightly packed the pipes and valves are, I wonder if anyone can repair anything on a pool. Do they normally pack them in this tightly (there was plenty of room to spread it out!) How can I fix this? The screws on the cover come off and they are pretty easy to fix. http://redsquarepools.files.wordpres...arts.gif?w=560 This one may not be the right one but just do a image search for the right one: "jandy valve blow up". I think they are all basically the same. The pool store should have all the parts. Yeah, that is tight. One think I noticed it the exposure. I'd build a *well ventilated* covering for it. The sun and elements are going to cost you down the road. Don't build anything tight around the heater though. I'd make a small shed like structure. Or a "lean-to". "One *thing* I noticed *is* the...." Must drink coffee....... |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
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Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Sun, 06 May 2012 10:19:29 -0500, gonjah wrote:
The screws on the cover come off and they are pretty easy to fix. http://redsquarepools.files.wordpres...arts.gif?w=560 Wow. The nice thing about your response is it give me courage to TRY to open it up to see what's inside. I have a spare (taken from the dumpster at a pool store yesterday that I will experiment on first as it can be opened up on my desktop. I might even be able to re-use parts if I can't get them at the store - but the housing is useless since it's already cemented into the pipes which were cut off when it was thrown away). |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Sun, 06 May 2012 10:21:54 -0500, gonjah wrote:
Yeah, that is tight. One thing I noticed it the exposure. I'd build a *well ventilated* covering for it. The sun and elements are going to cost you down the road. Don't build anything tight around the heater though. I'd make a small shed like structure. Or a "lean-to". Yeah. Not only are the dozen valves, dozen pipes and three motors, one filter and one heater plus solar all jammed together, but many of the valves are less than an inch from each other ... so close that I have to constantly remove the jandy handles just to turn them on or off. Who builds pools this way? (Answer: Lifetime pools ... so I should yell at them ... but I was just wondering if this was typical). I mean they had PLENTY of room! They did not have to jam it all in there. The pipes can only be accessed from the direction of all the equipment because there is a retaining wall an inch behind them. I mean couldn't they have put the pipes a foot away from the retaining wall? Jeezus. It drives me crazy every time I have to do anything around these things. Oh well, I guess it makes the lean-to enclosure smaller! :) |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On 5/6/2012 3:34 PM, Arklin K. wrote:
On Sun, 06 May 2012 10:21:54 -0500, gonjah wrote: Yeah, that is tight. One thing I noticed it the exposure. I'd build a *well ventilated* covering for it. The sun and elements are going to cost you down the road. Don't build anything tight around the heater though. I'd make a small shed like structure. Or a "lean-to". Yeah. Not only are the dozen valves, dozen pipes and three motors, one filter and one heater plus solar all jammed together, but many of the valves are less than an inch from each other ... so close that I have to constantly remove the jandy handles just to turn them on or off. Who builds pools this way? (Answer: Lifetime pools ... so I should yell at them ... but I was just wondering if this was typical). I mean they had PLENTY of room! They did not have to jam it all in there. The pipes can only be accessed from the direction of all the equipment because there is a retaining wall an inch behind them. I mean couldn't they have put the pipes a foot away from the retaining wall? Jeezus. It drives me crazy every time I have to do anything around these things. Oh well, I guess it makes the lean-to enclosure smaller! :) Yeah, but you don't want to make it even more difficult to get to. The good thing is it looks like fairly new equipment. My pool equipment is from the early 80's and everything but the sand filter, pipes and the valve housings have been replaced. Now it needs to be re-plastered. Pools can be real money pits. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Sun, 6 May 2012 20:34:21 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
wrote: Yeah. Not only are the dozen valves, dozen pipes and three motors, one filter and one heater plus solar all jammed together, but many of the valves are less than an inch from each other ... so close that I have to constantly remove the jandy handles just to turn them on or off. Cut it all out, start over in routing the pipes. Sorry. You have a real mess there. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Sun, 06 May 2012 17:25:54 -0700, Oren wrote:
Cut it all out, start over in routing the pipes. Sorry. You have a real mess there. Hi Oren, You're always helpful so I trust your opinion. It 'is' a real mess! This picture shows how hard it is to get to: http://picturepush.com/public/8204309 Today, it took about an hour just to get the screws off the top. I first took apart a junk Jandy valve to see what's inside. It's pretty simple. It has only six parts. 1) The lock nut 2) The handle 3) The cover plate 4) The cover-plate o-ring 5) The swinging gate 6) The body Here's a picture of the junk Jandy valve taken apart: http://picturepush.com/public/8204300 Then I took apart my Jandy valve in situ. It was a bear. This photo shows that I think the housing is cracked! http://picturepush.com/public/8204335 There is only about an inch between the bottom of the Jandy valve and the ground level. It's a very tight fit, even if I dig. If I slice the Jandy valve off at the bottom, how much pipe do I need to hook another pipe to it so that I can then hook a new Jandy valve to that new pipe? |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Mon, 7 May 2012 03:47:10 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
wrote: On Sun, 06 May 2012 17:25:54 -0700, Oren wrote: Cut it all out, start over in routing the pipes. Sorry. You have a real mess there. Hi Oren, You're always helpful so I trust your opinion. It 'is' a real mess! This picture shows how hard it is to get to: http://picturepush.com/public/8204309 Today, it took about an hour just to get the screws off the top. I first took apart a junk Jandy valve to see what's inside. It's pretty simple. It has only six parts. 1) The lock nut 2) The handle 3) The cover plate 4) The cover-plate o-ring 5) The swinging gate (Called a diffuser) Mine has two smaller O-rings. One on each end of the diffuser. Look in the housing body for the possibility of the other ring. About the size of nickel 6) The body Here's a picture of the junk Jandy valve taken apart: http://picturepush.com/public/8204300 Then I took apart my Jandy valve in situ. It was a bear. This photo shows that I think the housing is cracked! http://picturepush.com/public/8204335 You can try epoxy. I've not used it much but expect it will fix the crack. There is only about an inch between the bottom of the Jandy valve and the ground level. It's a very tight fit, even if I dig. If I slice the Jandy valve off at the bottom, how much pipe do I need to hook another pipe to it so that I can then hook a new Jandy valve to that new pipe? Douno about the amount of pipe needed. Being in a tight spot, I would consider using a couple of fernco couplings... in the proper size. Pic: http://www.plumbersurplus.com/images/prod/6/Fernco-P1056-44-rw-165945-243982.jpg http://www.plumbersurplus.com/images/prod/6/Fernco-P300-215-rw-249079-351688.jpg |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On May 7, 11:20*am, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 7 May 2012 03:47:10 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K." wrote: On Sun, 06 May 2012 17:25:54 -0700, Oren wrote: Cut it all out, start over in routing the pipes. Sorry. You have a real mess there. Hi Oren, You're always helpful so I trust your opinion. It 'is' a real mess! This picture shows how hard it is to get to: http://picturepush.com/public/8204309 Today, it took about an hour just to get the screws off the top. I first took apart a junk Jandy valve to see what's inside. It's pretty simple. It has only six parts. 1) The lock nut 2) The handle 3) The cover plate 4) The cover-plate o-ring 5) The swinging gate (Called a diffuser) Mine has two smaller O-rings. One on each end of the diffuser. *Look in the housing body for the possibility of the other ring. *About the size of nickel 6) The body Here's a picture of the junk Jandy valve taken apart: http://picturepush.com/public/8204300 Then I took apart my Jandy valve in situ. It was a bear. This photo shows that I think the housing is cracked! http://picturepush.com/public/8204335 You can try epoxy. I've not used it much but expect it will fix the crack. There is only about an inch between the bottom of the Jandy valve and the ground level. It's a very tight fit, even if I dig. If I slice the Jandy valve off at the bottom, how much pipe do I need to hook another pipe to it so that I can then hook a new Jandy valve to that new pipe? The depth of the socket on any of these fittings is about 1.5". If you had to, you could get away with the pipe not fully seating. If you got 1" inside it that should be enough to hold it. The pressures are only 20psi or so, and being outside, the consequences of failure probably aren't that great. Douno about the amount of pipe needed. *Being in a tight spot, I would consider using a couple of fernco couplings... in the proper size. Aren't Ferncos only rated for waste system use, ie not pressure rated? Still if nothing else works and since it's a pool might be OK. But if he can get the Fernco in there I would think he could also get a PVC repair coupling in. For OP, for repairs like this a repair coupling is often key. It's like a regular PVC coupling, except a regular coupling has a ridge inside at the midpoint. That serves as a stop of the two pieces of pipe where they meet. With a repair coupling there is no stop so you can slide it all the way onto a piece of pipe, butt another piece up to it, then slide it back over where they meet. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Mon, 7 May 2012 08:36:07 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On May 7, 11:20*am, Oren wrote: On Mon, 7 May 2012 03:47:10 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K." wrote: On Sun, 06 May 2012 17:25:54 -0700, Oren wrote: Cut it all out, start over in routing the pipes. Sorry. You have a real mess there. Hi Oren, You're always helpful so I trust your opinion. It 'is' a real mess! This picture shows how hard it is to get to: http://picturepush.com/public/8204309 Today, it took about an hour just to get the screws off the top. I first took apart a junk Jandy valve to see what's inside. It's pretty simple. It has only six parts. 1) The lock nut 2) The handle 3) The cover plate 4) The cover-plate o-ring 5) The swinging gate (Called a diffuser) Mine has two smaller O-rings. One on each end of the diffuser. *Look in the housing body for the possibility of the other ring. *About the size of nickel 6) The body Here's a picture of the junk Jandy valve taken apart: http://picturepush.com/public/8204300 Then I took apart my Jandy valve in situ. It was a bear. This photo shows that I think the housing is cracked! http://picturepush.com/public/8204335 You can try epoxy. I've not used it much but expect it will fix the crack. There is only about an inch between the bottom of the Jandy valve and the ground level. It's a very tight fit, even if I dig. If I slice the Jandy valve off at the bottom, how much pipe do I need to hook another pipe to it so that I can then hook a new Jandy valve to that new pipe? The depth of the socket on any of these fittings is about 1.5". If you had to, you could get away with the pipe not fully seating. If you got 1" inside it that should be enough to hold it. The pressures are only 20psi or so, and being outside, the consequences of failure probably aren't that great. Douno about the amount of pipe needed. *Being in a tight spot, I would consider using a couple of fernco couplings... in the proper size. Aren't Ferncos only rated for waste system use, ie not pressure rated? Still if nothing else works and since it's a pool might be OK. But if he can get the Fernco in there I would think he could also get a PVC repair coupling in. For OP, for repairs like this a repair coupling is often key. It's like a regular PVC coupling, except a regular coupling has a ridge inside at the midpoint. That serves as a stop of the two pieces of pipe where they meet. With a repair coupling there is no stop so you can slide it all the way onto a piece of pipe, butt another piece up to it, then slide it back over where they meet. A PVC Union - slip x slip ? In to proper size. http://www.azpartsmaster.com/Products/PVC-Pipe-Union---2-Slip__I897020.aspx |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Mon, 7 May 2012 03:47:10 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
wrote: It 'is' a real mess! This picture shows how hard it is to get to: http://picturepush.com/public/8204309 Today, it took about an hour just to get the screws off the top. There are flexible tools that hold even longer screwdriver bits. Use a shorter of longer screwdriver? Cordless drill gets all screws out in a ~11 seconds :-\ |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Mon, 07 May 2012 14:59:54 -0500, gonjah gonjah.net wrote:
You'd have to redesign the pool plumbing too. Are you sure.... He's got three pumps but no Polaris pump and can't vacuum. I think I can see 7 Jandy valves. ???? I have a total of 2 for my pool and spa. One for the suction and one for return. Given the mess I see, I would move vertical, built a manifold of some kind. All valves at belly-button level. My back hurts just looking at bending over to work on this unit. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Mon, 07 May 2012 13:23:40 -0700, Oren wrote:
There are flexible tools that hold even longer screwdriver bits. Interesting. Yes, a flexible shaft would have been perfect because I couldn't get a straight shot on most of the screws and there is a pipe right in front (less than the length of a stubby screwdriver) of the Jandy valves! |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Mon, 7 May 2012 23:49:50 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
wrote: On Mon, 07 May 2012 13:23:40 -0700, Oren wrote: There are flexible tools that hold even longer screwdriver bits. Interesting. Yes, a flexible shaft would have been perfect because I couldn't get a straight shot on most of the screws and there is a pipe right in front (less than the length of a stubby screwdriver) of the Jandy valves! Get an offset screwdriver. Ratcheting. Should be in your toolbox. Here's some examples http://www.sears.com/craftsman-offse...p-00904116000P -- Vic |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Mon, 07 May 2012 14:59:54 -0500, gonjah wrote:
I think I can see 7 Jandy valves. ???? I have a total of 2 for my pool and spa. One for the suction and one for return. I just went out and counted 20 valves, in toto, although 2 were electrical Compool CVA-24 valves and 1 was unused (the pipe is capped off for a vacuum that isn't installed) and 1 had no diverter as it just had a clear viewing window. http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8211413.jpg I looked some more and the one that's leaking is definitely cracked! I'm not sure if epoxy would work so I'm going to, sadly, replace it. Here's a closeup of the inch-long crack necessitating the repair: http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8211478.jpg |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Mon, 07 May 2012 14:55:30 -0700, Oren wrote:
Given the mess I see, I would move vertical, built a manifold of some kind. All valves at belly-button level. My back hurts just looking at bending over to work on this unit. I think I'll take you up on this offer! It's a mess! Is there any downside by bringing the pipes up higher than they are (they are at knee level or below but I'd love them at belly button level). Given this is the setup: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8211495.jpg I'm thinking of coming up out of the ground, bending (because I have to) to get past the pipe directly above - and then once I bend, I can go straight up to bellow level where I can loop over to the pump. Is there any problem going to belly level (head?)? |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Mon, 07 May 2012 19:16:57 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:
Get an offset screwdriver. Ratcheting. Should be in your toolbox. Here's some examples I see. Thanks. I generally don't go for the new-fangled tools, assuming they're all junk compared to the old-style stuff (have they really invented a 'new tool') but this one would have come in handy when I was unscrewing in a tight space! But usually, I find the new-fangled tools a bit too thick, a bit too wide, a bit too flimsy, and a not robust enough - compared to the basic tools. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On May 7, 11:56*pm, "Arklin K." wrote:
On Mon, 07 May 2012 14:55:30 -0700, Oren wrote: Given the mess I see, I would move vertical, built a manifold of some kind. All valves at belly-button level. My back hurts just looking at bending over to work on this unit. I think I'll take you up on this offer! It's a mess! Is there any downside by bringing the pipes up higher than they are (they are at knee level or below but I'd love them at belly button level). Given this is the setup:http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8211495.jpg I'm thinking of coming up out of the ground, bending (because I have to) to get past the pipe directly above - and then once I bend, I can go straight up to bellow level where I can loop over to the pump. Is there any problem going to belly level (head?)? If there is a section that you could do naturally as part of the valve replacement to give yourself some more room so it's easier to fix, I'd do that. But I wouldn't raise it up and fix what is not broken. I agree the design there isn't great. But other than the leak it apparently works. To redo the whole thing because you don't like the way it looks, IMO is nuts. As for raising everything up to 4 ft for convenience, there are some things you want to watch out for. If you take the suction line up instead of having it go downhill to the pool, the pump may become difficult or impossible to prime. And I don't know about you, but I seldom need to fiddle with the valves on the pipes, mainly during winterization. The valve I do use the most is the valve on the filter that selects backwashing. But that mates to the bottom of the filter tank and I'm not even sure you cold move it if you want. And where it is doesn't seem a problem to use at all. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On May 7, 11:49*pm, "Arklin K." wrote:
On Mon, 07 May 2012 14:59:54 -0500, gonjah wrote: I think I can see 7 Jandy valves. ???? *I have a total of 2 for my pool and spa. One for the suction and one for return. I just went out and counted 20 valves, in toto, although 2 were electrical Compool CVA-24 valves and 1 was unused (the pipe is capped off for a vacuum that isn't installed) and 1 had no diverter as it just had a clear viewing window. http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8211413.jpg I looked some more and the one that's leaking is definitely cracked! I'm not sure if epoxy would work so I'm going to, sadly, replace it. Here's a closeup of the inch-long crack necessitating the repair: *http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8211478.jpg Maybe it's a crazy idea. But you have nothing to lose. I wonder what would happen if you took a propane torch to the outside of the valve at the crack and tried to melt it? If you got the flame right on it, it's possible the outside would melt enough to seal it before the rest of it deformed from the heat. If I were going to try that, I'd have the valve assembled and full of water. And a small tip torch would probably work best. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Tue, 8 May 2012 13:14:27 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
wrote: On Mon, 07 May 2012 19:16:57 -0500, Vic Smith wrote: Get an offset screwdriver. Ratcheting. Should be in your toolbox. Here's some examples I see. Thanks. I generally don't go for the new-fangled tools, assuming they're all junk compared to the old-style stuff (have they really invented a 'new tool') but this one would have come in handy when I was unscrewing in a tight space! Those are "old" tools. I bought one almost 40 years ago and used if often enough. That one was one-piece, ratcheting, just for slotted screws When you need it, you're glad you have it. I don't have any now, including the ones I linked to. Haven't missed them, but I hardly do anything any more. Most stuff is engineered now to not require an offset screwdriver on a fastener. But usually, I find the new-fangled tools a bit too thick, a bit too wide, a bit too flimsy, and a not robust enough - compared to the basic tools. "Special" tools are kind of always in there own category in those terms. But I hear you about the thickness. Those multi-bit offsets wouldn't get on some of the screws I used my old one on. It could get into a space half the height the new ones can. Something like the offsets here, but a little thicker. http://www.fine-tools.com/schr1.htm But mine was a Craftsman, and cheap to buy. Looks like they don't sell them anymore. Just like nailspinners. -- Vic |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Tue, 8 May 2012 03:49:36 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
wrote: I just went out and counted 20 valves, in toto, although 2 were electrical Compool CVA-24 valves and 1 was unused (the pipe is capped off for a vacuum that isn't installed) and 1 had no diverter as it just had a clear viewing window. http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8211413.jpg I withdraw my idea of going vertical. What you have there is a Jandy Valve Farm. A real national treasure :-\ |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On 5/8/2012 11:40 AM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 8 May 2012 03:49:36 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K." wrote: I just went out and counted 20 valves, in toto, although 2 were electrical Compool CVA-24 valves and 1 was unused (the pipe is capped off for a vacuum that isn't installed) and 1 had no diverter as it just had a clear viewing window. http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8211413.jpg I withdraw my idea of going vertical. What you have there is a Jandy Valve Farm. A real national treasure :-\ Looks kind of like the engine plumbing on the Space Shuttle I saw at Kennedy Space center. Maybe Paramount hired out of work NASA contractors. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Tue, 8 May 2012 03:49:36 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
wrote: Here's a closeup of the inch-long crack necessitating the repair: http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8211478.jpg Note that valve sits closer to the ground than the one next to it? Or is it the photo... For giggles, call a Cabana girl pool service. It can be fixed with some changes in the pipes. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Mon, 07 May 2012 19:16:57 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote: There are flexible tools that hold even longer screwdriver bits. Interesting. Yes, a flexible shaft would have been perfect because I couldn't get a straight shot on most of the screws and there is a pipe right in front (less than the length of a stubby screwdriver) of the Jandy valves! Get an offset screwdriver. Ratcheting. Should be in your toolbox. I bought this item. Added a 1/4" socket and short driver bit (works inside a truck door panel). - Thumbwheel Ratchet Set http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-thumbwheel-ratchet-set-94011.html |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Tue, 08 May 2012 11:46:36 -0500, gonjah wrote:
On 5/8/2012 11:40 AM, Oren wrote: On Tue, 8 May 2012 03:49:36 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K." wrote: I just went out and counted 20 valves, in toto, although 2 were electrical Compool CVA-24 valves and 1 was unused (the pipe is capped off for a vacuum that isn't installed) and 1 had no diverter as it just had a clear viewing window. http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...40/8211413.jpg I withdraw my idea of going vertical. What you have there is a Jandy Valve Farm. A real national treasure :-\ Looks kind of like the engine plumbing on the Space Shuttle I saw at Kennedy Space center. Maybe Paramount hired out of work NASA contractors. If I can be bold: "..it looks like a six-pack of **** blew up." |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Tue, 08 May 2012 10:57:20 -0500, gonjah wrote:
I'd try Plast-Aid first. I called the owner of the plast-aid main number (970)577-1000, Randy, in Colorado, but it matters if it's PVC, Acrylic, Styrene, but not Nylon or PBS plastic. One way to test is to put lacquer thinner on the plastic and if it gets sticky, it's good to go. He gave me this procedu Wipe the outside of the Jandy valve clean with a paper towel Put just the liquid on a corner of the paper towel Wipe that liquid over a half inch on both sides of the crack Then mix the plastic liquid and powder to a drippy consistency Note: It must be wet to work! Smear a thin layer over the crack half inch on both sides of crack In time, the consistency will get frosting thick Wait until it's no longer drippy on this bonding layer Then smear a new layer on top to add thickness for strength The first smear is the chemical bond; The second smear is for strength. The two components liquid and powder, become part of the Jandy valve plastic. He says this is different than adhesives which are polar attraction. He explained Chem Quip in San Jose distributes the stuff, and SCP in San Jose or Spa Depot in Seattle. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Tue, 08 May 2012 09:40:26 -0700, Oren wrote:
I withdraw my idea of going vertical. What you have there is a Jandy Valve Farm. A real national treasure :-\ BTW, at Home Depot, a 2" PVC ball valve is about $11 while a Jandy valve is $90 (plus about $9 tax). What's different? I am calling Zodiac systems (800) 822-7933 technical support ("our call volume is high") and have been on hold for fifteen minutes. I'll wait but I wonder if anyone here knows WHAT the heck is the difference? Should I just go with a cheaper ball valve? |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Tue, 08 May 2012 11:46:36 -0500, gonjah wrote:
Looks kind of like the engine plumbing on the Space Shuttle I saw at Kennedy Space center. I bought the plumbing today (schedule 40 white PVC at Home Depot). I'm still exploring the Plast-Aid ... it will only work on the crack if the plastic is PVC but not if it's nylon on the Jandy valve. Jandy doesn't seem to answer their support number because they dropped the call after about 20 minutes. Drat. I'll try again. http://www.zodiacpoolsystems.com/products/valves.aspx One other question ... I have 2" schedule 40 PVC pipes. Surprisingly, there is no 2" Jandy valve. Which one is the one I would want? 4716 2" - 2½" Positive Seal, 2 Port NeverLube Valve 4724 1½" - 2" Positive Seal, 2 Port NeverLube Valve PS: I'd ask Jandy (aka Zodiac) if they'd only answer their phone! (800) 822-7933 |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Tue, 08 May 2012 10:42:29 -0700, Oren wrote:
I bought this item. Added a 1/4" socket and short driver bit (works inside a truck door panel). - Thumbwheel Ratchet Set http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-thumbwheel-ratchet-set-94011.html Never saw that tool. Looks useful. -- Vic |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Tue, 8 May 2012 20:01:06 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
wrote: BTW, at Home Depot, a 2" PVC ball valve is about $11 while a Jandy valve is $90 (plus about $9 tax). What's different? Jandy valves are the intended method. Best. A 2" PVC ball valve is not the way to go. A waste of money. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Tue, 08 May 2012 10:19:49 -0700, Oren wrote:
Note that valve sits closer to the ground than the one next to it? Or is it the photo... Nope. You're wholly correct. The valve that cracked is the one that sits closest to the ground. The surrounding valves sit up higher. The reason, apparently, this one sits in the worst position possible is that there is a PIPE directly above it! Why they made these pipes like the overpasses and underpasses in NYC is beyond me. Another problem is you can't easily get to it because there is a retaining wall less than a foot on the other side. I can get my arms in there - but not much else lying sideways on the ground in that foot of space. I'm really really starting to like the idea someone suggested of the Plast-Aid acrylic. I finally got through to Jandy (Zodiac) asking what the materials are. CPVC - chlorinated poly vinyl chloride |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Tue, 08 May 2012 15:08:21 -0500, gonjah wrote:
Interesting. I have some I've never used, but it was given to me by a reputable (probably the best in town) pool service company. Jandy told me it's CPVC (which, incidentally, is molded into the plastic on the outside of the valve - if I had only known what to look for). I called Randy at Plast-aid back (970)577-1000 and spoke to Darlene who said she will ask Randy if CPVC is the same (for our purposes) as PVC. I'll let you know. |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Tue, 08 May 2012 12:25:28 -0700, Oren wrote:
If I can be bold: "..it looks like a six-pack of **** blew up." I'm on the phone with Jandy to find out what the plastic is (it's CPVC). When I said it shouldn't have cracked (and it shouldn't have), she said that it's a lifetime warranty. I said, oh yeah? She said I had to be 'registered' and she looked me up and lo and behold, she just found me. I'm registered under the previous owner. She's asking me which one I want her to send me: #4724 1.5 inches to 2 inches (the 2-inch schedule 40 pipe goes outside) #4716 2 inches to 2.5 inches (the 2-inch schedule 40 pipe goes inside) Which one do I want? |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especiallycrowded)
On Tue, 08 May 2012 13:26:42 -0700, Oren wrote:
A 2" PVC ball valve is not the way to go. A waste of money. Jandy is sending me a new never-lube ball valve (I'm on the phone with them right now) under warranty (the PO registered the pool equipment). Which one do I want? The one where the pipe goes inside the valve or the one where the pipe goes outside the valve? |
Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)
On Wed, 9 May 2012 06:20:30 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On May 8, 4:26*pm, Oren wrote: On Tue, 8 May 2012 20:01:06 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K." wrote: BTW, at Home Depot, a 2" PVC ball valve is about $11 while a Jandy valve is $90 (plus about $9 tax). What's different? Jandy valves are the intended method. Best. A 2" PVC ball valve is not the way to go. A waste of money. The Jandy valves are more durable and last. The PVC ball valves are not rated for sunlight, among other things, and will deteriorate in a few years. Don;t know where he's buying them, but those Jandy valves are available for less than half of that $90. Yep. My pool solar pipes have two PVC ball valves. I dislike them so much I never operate them. Full open, instead of shutting the panel water off from the pump in the winter. Stiff and makes me feel like they are about to break. |
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