Flu draft regulator/damper question

SETUP:
2001 Burnham V83 Boiler oil-fired, feeding hot water to 8 cast-iron radiators WW1 vintage. Mounted on top of 6 cinderblocks approx. 6” above basement floor, boiler is approx. 2’ away from chimney stack.
6-7” diameter metal flue runs vertically about 18” above top of boiler then angles horizontally, upward at 5 degree angle, towards and into chimney stack.
Mounted on vertical section of flue is a typical draft regulator with counter-weighted door.

QUESTION:
I asked the boiler tech from my current oil supplier if he could check the calibration of the flue regulator door based upon what I saw from the door mfg., and he asked me why? I said because I just wanted to make sure it was working properly. I told him the procedure used to take draft measurements inside the boiler and in the flue. He told me, “Number one, this regulator is installed in the wrong place(3” above the boiler on the aforementioned vertical section of flue), and number two, boilers today don’t even need regulator doors.”
He then went on to explain that to reposition the regulator in the correct location – on the horizontal section of flue – would cost approx. $150-300 in labor time alone, not to mention parts(new flue pipe & fasteners), and that it was just best to leave it alone, even though the oil supplier at that time installed it incorrectly when they put this Burnham V8 series in..
His attitude through the whole time was professional and to the point, but instinctively I felt that technically he was incorrect.
What do you all think based upon my setup and the conversation above?

-ChrisCoaster

Guess I "stumped the chumps" again. LOL!

On Mar 30, 5:04*pm, wrote:
Flu draft regulator/damper question

SETUP:
2001 Burnham V83 Boiler oil-fired, feeding hot water to 8 cast-iron radiators WW1 vintage. *Mounted on top of 6 cinderblocks approx. 6” above basement floor, boiler is approx. 2’ away from chimney stack.
6-7” diameter metal flue runs vertically about 18” above top of boiler then angles horizontally, upward at 5 degree angle, towards and into chimney stack.
Mounted on vertical section of flue is a typical draft regulator with counter-weighted door.

QUESTION:
I asked the boiler tech from my current oil supplier if he could check the calibration of the flue regulator door based upon what I saw from the door mfg., and he asked me why? *I said because I just wanted to make sure it was working properly. *I told him the procedure used to take draft measurements inside the boiler and in the flue. *He told me, “Number one, this regulator is installed in the wrong place(3” above the boiler on the aforementioned vertical section of flue), and number two, boilers today don’t even need regulator doors.”
He then went on to explain that to reposition the regulator in the correct location – on the horizontal section of flue – would cost approx. $150-300 in labor time alone, not to mention parts(new flue pipe & fasteners), and that it was just best to leave it alone, even though the oil supplier at that time installed it incorrectly when they put this Burnham V8 series in.
His attitude through the whole time was professional and to the point, but instinctively I felt that technically he was incorrect.
What do you all think based upon my setup and the conversation above?

-ChrisCoaster

Did you check the mfgrs site to see what they recommend for
installation????

Well put it this way: The tech said it definitely does not belong 1" above the top cover of the boiler. But he said if it's been set up like that for 10 years and theres been no problems then leave it alone. No regulator mfg diagrams show that as one of the placement options. Along the horizontal slope section - no problem - just closer to the boiler or in the middle of that run to the chimney. He just doesnt think it's something I should spend up to $200 to correct.

-CC

On Mar 31, 10:06*pm, wrote:
Well put it this way: The tech said it definitely does not belong 1" above the top cover of the boiler. *But he said if it's been set up like that for 10 years and theres been no problems then leave it alone. * No regulator mfg diagrams show that as one of the placement options. Along the horizontal slope section - no problem - just closer to the boiler or in the middle of that run to the chimney. *He just doesnt think it's something I should spend up to $200 to correct.

-CC

I'm no expert on draft regulators, but thinking about
the location issue, the following occurred to me.
The draft regulator is basicly a door that swings open
against a spring so that as the chimney draft increases
it will open to let more air in and try to keep the draft
to the furnace constant. If that door is in a horizontal
section of flue, the combustion gas stream is only hitting
the edge of the thin metal door and it will have very little
interaction
with the door. The gases pretty much go right by it.
If the regulator is inserted in a vertical
section of flue, when the door opens, the combustion
gas stream is hitting directly against the door and
exerting pressure against it.

That may be the key issue. How big of a difference it
makes, I don't know.

On Sunday, April 1, 2012 8:46:10 AM UTC-4, wrote:


I'm no expert on draft regulators, but thinking about
the location issue, the following occurred to me.
The draft regulator is basicly a door that swings open
against a spring so that as the chimney draft increases
it will open to let more air in and try to keep the draft
to the furnace constant. If that door is in a horizontal
section of flue, the combustion gas stream is only hitting
the edge of the thin metal door and it will have very little
interaction
with the door. The gases pretty much go right by it.
If the regulator is inserted in a vertical
section of flue, when the door opens, the combustion
gas stream is hitting directly against the door and
exerting pressure against it.

That may be the key issue. How big of a difference it
makes, I don't know.
_____________
Most are now counter-weighted: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg So depending upon how much draft is needed the weight can be turned in or out so it takes more or less draft to open the door.