Source of door bottom extension lumber?
I have been tasked with extending an entry door that has been cut too
high. I need to add approx 2" to the bottom. The door is a true 1 3/4" thickness and I plan on screwing/glueing the extension prior to filling, sanding and finishing. The problem I'm finding is locating a material source that is 1 3/4" thick that I can use for the extension. I'm hoping that others may have encountered this same issue before and recommend what I could use for material? Obviously all the lumber I've found is 1 1/2" thick. Recommendations please? Thanks |
Source of door bottom extension lumber?
|
Source of door bottom extension lumber?
|
Source of door bottom extension lumber?
|
Source of door bottom extension lumber?
On 3/25/2012 9:14 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
.... Drill a couple of deep countersinks in the bottom for the screws, glue and screw it in place. Buy a six-pack or case of beer for the guy that made it for you. I use (and recommend using) dowels instead of screws for this purpose. Several advantages--no metal staining w/ time/weather, no countersink hole or short plug to cover the hole and by far the biggest plus is one can trim the door to fit now and in future w/o worry over hitting the screws and screwing up either a blade or plane. -- |
Source of door bottom extension lumber?
On Mar 25, 7:05*am, wrote:
I have been tasked with extending an entry door that has been cut too high. *I need to add approx 2" to the bottom. *The door is a true 1 3/4" thickness and I plan on screwing/glueing the extension prior to filling, sanding and finishing. The problem I'm finding is locating a material source that is 1 3/4" thick that I can use for the extension. I'm hoping that others may have encountered this same issue before and recommend what I could use for material? *Obviously all the lumber I've found is 1 1/2" thick. Recommendations please? Ask the local millwork place to plane a piece of treated board, and then cover it with a big brass kickplate? |
Source of door bottom extension lumber?
On Mar 25, 11:01*am, dpb wrote:
On 3/25/2012 9:14 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: ... Drill a couple of deep countersinks in the bottom for the screws, glue and screw it in place. Buy a six-pack or case of beer for the guy that made it for you. I use (and recommend using) dowels instead of screws for this purpose. Several advantages--no metal staining w/ time/weather, no countersink hole or short plug to cover the hole and by far the biggest plus is one can trim the door to fit now and in future w/o worry over hitting the screws and screwing up either a blade or plane. -- Or biscuits, which give you a little more leeway as far as lining the parts up. |
Source of door bottom extension lumber?
On 3/26/2012 2:19 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Mar 25, 11:01 am, wrote: On 3/25/2012 9:14 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: ... Drill a couple of deep countersinks in the bottom for the screws, glue and screw it in place. Buy a six-pack or case of beer for the guy that made it for you. I use (and recommend using) dowels instead of screws for this purpose. .... Or biscuits, which give you a little more leeway as far as lining the parts up. Possible and workable, but for this specific purpose (which I have done quite a few times to salvage/modify doors on farm outbuildings in particular(*)) I drill/insert the dowels after gluing on the new piece; I don't try to use them to line up the scab w/ the door. For that I use blocking to clamp against on the surface. I now have a wide glue-joint shaper cutter; I'm thinking the next time it comes up I'll run it (if I can figure out a way to get the door past the shaper spindle, that is :) ). (*) I "grew" a 32x80 to 36x80 for the old shop salvaging an old door from the old house that lost its job in a remodel folks did some 50 years ago and had been sitting in a corner in the barn loft ever since... :) -- |
Source of door bottom extension lumber?
On Mar 26, 4:54*pm, dpb wrote:
On 3/26/2012 2:19 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Mar 25, 11:01 am, *wrote: On 3/25/2012 9:14 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: ... Drill a couple of deep countersinks in the bottom for the screws, glue and screw it in place. Buy a six-pack or case of beer for the guy that made it for you. I use (and recommend using) dowels instead of screws for this purpose. ... Or biscuits, which give you a little more leeway as far as lining the parts up. Possible and workable, but for this specific purpose (which I have done quite a few times to salvage/modify doors on farm outbuildings in particular(*)) I drill/insert the dowels after gluing on the new piece; I don't try to use them to line up the scab w/ the door. *For that I use blocking to clamp against on the surface. I now have a wide glue-joint shaper cutter; I'm thinking the next time it comes up I'll run it (if I can figure out a way to get the door past the shaper spindle, that is :) ). That's easy. Cut a glue joint in the scab. Then cut off a workable piece from the door and cut glue joints in that, both edges, since you'll have to glue it back onto the door. Then cut off another workable piece from the remaining part door and cut glue joints in that, both edges, since you'll have to glue it back onto the door. Then cut off another workable piece from the remaining part door and cut glue joints in that, both edges, since you'll have to glue it back onto the door. Keep cutting off workable pieces and cutting glue joints until you've put the whole door back together. QED ;-) (*) I "grew" a 32x80 to 36x80 for the old shop salvaging an old door from the old house that lost its job in a remodel folks did some 50 years ago and had been sitting in a corner in the barn loft ever since... :) -- |
Source of door bottom extension lumber?
On 3/26/2012 4:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
.... Keep cutting off workable pieces and cutting glue joints until you've put the whole door back together. QED ;-) .... I've done things like that before (not necessarily on purpose!) chuckles -- |
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