I have been tasked with extending an entry door that has been cut too
high. I need to add approx 2" to the bottom. The door is a true 1
3/4" thickness and I plan on screwing/glueing the extension prior to
filling, sanding and finishing.

The problem I'm finding is locating a material source that is 1 3/4"
thick that I can use for the extension.

I'm hoping that others may have encountered this same issue before and
recommend what I could use for material? Obviously all the lumber
I've found is 1 1/2" thick.

Recommendations please? Thanks

On 3/25/2012 7:05 AM, wrote:
I have been tasked with extending an entry door that has been cut too
high. I need to add approx 2" to the bottom. The door is a true 1
3/4" thickness and I plan on screwing/glueing the extension prior to
filling, sanding and finishing.

The problem I'm finding is locating a material source that is 1 3/4"
thick that I can use for the extension.

I'm hoping that others may have encountered this same issue before and
recommend what I could use for material? Obviously all the lumber
I've found is 1 1/2" thick.

Recommendations please? Thanks

A) Go to a hardwood dealer and buy 8/4 or 10/4 stock

B) Laminate two (or more) pieces of thinner material (resorcinol or an
epoxy would be good for the purpose; maybe even an application for the
awful-otherwise "gorilla" polyurethane glue.

What is the door made of? I'd try to match it, first. If it's painted,
not so much an issue but still will want something that doesn't have
grossly differing characteristics (like pine tacked onto an oak door,
for example).

--

wrote:

I have been tasked with extending an entry door that has been cut too
high. I need to add approx 2" to the bottom. The door is a true 1
3/4" thickness and I plan on screwing/glueing the extension prior to
filling, sanding and finishing.

The problem I'm finding is locating a material source that is 1 3/4"
thick that I can use for the extension.

I'm hoping that others may have encountered this same issue before and
recommend what I could use for material? Obviously all the lumber
I've found is 1 1/2" thick.

Recommendations please? Thanks

I'd go for a double layer of 5/4 pine ripped to the thickness of the
door. Sand flush once the glue dries.

Jim

On Sun, 25 Mar 2012 08:05:13 -0400, wrote:

I have been tasked with extending an entry door that has been cut too
high. I need to add approx 2" to the bottom. The door is a true 1
3/4" thickness and I plan on screwing/glueing the extension prior to
filling, sanding and finishing.

The problem I'm finding is locating a material source that is 1 3/4"
thick that I can use for the extension.

I'm hoping that others may have encountered this same issue before and
recommend what I could use for material? Obviously all the lumber
I've found is 1 1/2" thick.

Recommendations please? Thanks

Ask around your neighbors or co-workers and see if any of them do
woodwork as a hobby. The can either cut down one larger piece or
laminate two smaller pieces to get exactly what you need. Some
lumberyard will do that also, but it can get expensive.

Drill a couple of deep countersinks in the bottom for the screws, glue
and screw it in place. Buy a six-pack or case of beer for the guy that
made it for you.

On 3/25/2012 9:14 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
....

Drill a couple of deep countersinks in the bottom for the screws, glue
and screw it in place. Buy a six-pack or case of beer for the guy that
made it for you.

I use (and recommend using) dowels instead of screws for this purpose.

Several advantages--no metal staining w/ time/weather, no countersink
hole or short plug to cover the hole and by far the biggest plus is one
can trim the door to fit now and in future w/o worry over hitting the
screws and screwing up either a blade or plane.

--

On Mar 25, 7:05*am, wrote:
I have been tasked with extending an entry door that has been cut too
high. *I need to add approx 2" to the bottom. *The door is a true 1
3/4" thickness and I plan on screwing/glueing the extension prior to
filling, sanding and finishing.

The problem I'm finding is locating a material source that is 1 3/4"
thick that I can use for the extension.

I'm hoping that others may have encountered this same issue before and
recommend what I could use for material? *Obviously all the lumber
I've found is 1 1/2" thick.

Recommendations please?

Ask the local millwork place to plane a piece of treated board, and
then cover it with a big brass kickplate?

On Mar 25, 11:01*am, dpb wrote:
On 3/25/2012 9:14 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
...

Drill a couple of deep countersinks in the bottom for the screws, glue
and screw it in place. Buy a six-pack or case of beer for the guy that
made it for you.

I use (and recommend using) dowels instead of screws for this purpose.

Several advantages--no metal staining w/ time/weather, no countersink
hole or short plug to cover the hole and by far the biggest plus is one
can trim the door to fit now and in future w/o worry over hitting the
screws and screwing up either a blade or plane.

--

Or biscuits, which give you a little more leeway as far as lining the
parts up.

On 3/26/2012 2:19 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Mar 25, 11:01 am, wrote:
On 3/25/2012 9:14 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
...

Drill a couple of deep countersinks in the bottom for the screws, glue
and screw it in place. Buy a six-pack or case of beer for the guy that
made it for you.

I use (and recommend using) dowels instead of screws for this purpose.

....

Or biscuits, which give you a little more leeway as far as lining the
parts up.

Possible and workable, but for this specific purpose (which I have done
quite a few times to salvage/modify doors on farm outbuildings in
particular(*)) I drill/insert the dowels after gluing on the new piece;
I don't try to use them to line up the scab w/ the door. For that I use
blocking to clamp against on the surface.

I now have a wide glue-joint shaper cutter; I'm thinking the next time
it comes up I'll run it (if I can figure out a way to get the door past
the shaper spindle, that is ).

(*) I "grew" a 32x80 to 36x80 for the old shop salvaging an old door
from the old house that lost its job in a remodel folks did some 50
years ago and had been sitting in a corner in the barn loft ever since...

--

On Mar 26, 4:54*pm, dpb wrote:
On 3/26/2012 2:19 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Mar 25, 11:01 am, *wrote:
On 3/25/2012 9:14 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
...

Drill a couple of deep countersinks in the bottom for the screws, glue
and screw it in place. Buy a six-pack or case of beer for the guy that
made it for you.

I use (and recommend using) dowels instead of screws for this purpose.

...

Or biscuits, which give you a little more leeway as far as lining the
parts up.

Possible and workable, but for this specific purpose (which I have done
quite a few times to salvage/modify doors on farm outbuildings in
particular(*)) I drill/insert the dowels after gluing on the new piece;
I don't try to use them to line up the scab w/ the door. *For that I use
blocking to clamp against on the surface.

I now have a wide glue-joint shaper cutter; I'm thinking the next time
it comes up I'll run it (if I can figure out a way to get the door past
the shaper spindle, that is ).

That's easy.

Cut a glue joint in the scab.

Then cut off a workable piece from the door and cut glue joints in
that, both edges, since you'll have to glue it back onto the door.

Then cut off another workable piece from the remaining part door and
cut glue joints in that, both edges, since you'll have to glue it back
onto the door.

Then cut off another workable piece from the remaining part door and
cut glue joints in that, both edges, since you'll have to glue it back
onto the door.

Keep cutting off workable pieces and cutting glue joints until you've
put the whole door back together.

QED ;-)



(*) I "grew" a 32x80 to 36x80 for the old shop salvaging an old door
from the old house that lost its job in a remodel folks did some 50
years ago and had been sitting in a corner in the barn loft ever since...

--

On 3/26/2012 4:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

Keep cutting off workable pieces and cutting glue joints until you've
put the whole door back together.

QED ;-)
....

I've done things like that before (not necessarily on purpose!)

chuckles

--