My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

Mikepier wrote:
My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

If you route whatever pipe you use directly to and into the sump, how will
you know when it blows?

Obviously the BEST way is a connector, a couple of "Ls" and 10 feet of 3/4"
copper pipe (~$200.00).

On Mon, 7 Mar 2011 03:37:29 -0800 (PST), Mikepier
wrote:

My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

I'm the opposite of an authority, but I put a pan to catch leaks under
the WH and ran plastic pipe from it to the sump. 2-inch or whatever
matched the hole in it. I put more of the empty area of the pan
below the T&P valve, and now that you mention it, I think I had to put
the biggest empty part to the left of the valve, and I pointed the T&P
pipe a little to the left, hoping to catch more of what came out.
(I noticed a couple weeks ago it was pointing to the left but I
coudln't remember why until now. Thanks.)

I've never had water come out of that valve afaik.

Oh, yeah, with the last WH, I had a 2 inch piece of vinyl hose running
fitting loosely on the bottom of the pipe and resting in the pan. I
could have gotten a hose that would fit better. I don't know why I
didn't do that this time.

Why does it have to be high temp. What temp does it release water at?
Oh, 210, but clear vinyl seems to be 150 whether braided or not, or
maybe 80°C, which is 176F.

Silicone tubing goes up to 500F. I wonder if you can get a piece of
that.

On Mar 7, 6:37*am, Mikepier wrote:
My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

What kind of floor do you have? If it's concrete I'd probably just
leave it alone. I've never seen one of those valves blow myself. I
have seen them develop leaks that you will not notice if you route it
into your sump pit. I have seen slow leak failures of hw tanks as
well as catastrophic failures. All were the tank leaking, not the
safety valve. If you want to do something to protect the floor area
of your basement I'd suggest a pan under your hw tank and route a
drain from it to your pit. The pan will cvatch the pipe as well.

On Mar 7, 8:09*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Mar 7, 6:37*am, Mikepier wrote:

My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

What kind of floor do you have? *If it's concrete I'd probably just
leave it alone. *I've never seen one of those valves blow myself. *I
have seen them develop leaks that you will not notice if you route it
into your sump pit. *I have seen slow leak failures of hw tanks as
well as catastrophic failures. *All were the tank leaking, not the
safety valve. *If you want to do something to protect the floor area
of your basement I'd suggest a pan under your hw tank and route a
drain from it to your pit. *The pan will cvatch the pipe as well.


The answer may depend on your local codes. There is a code in
most areas that deals with how the TSP line can terminate. I know
it specs a max height above the floor that is allowed. And I think
I've
seen where code also specs a min height as well. If so, that would
seem to preclude routing it directly to the sump pit..... The idea
to
use a pan under it that would catch both the TSP water and any
water leaking from the heater tank and then route that to the sump
seems like the best idea. However, that only applies if you're
installing a new one and can put the pan in.

What kind of floor do you have? *If it's concrete I'd probably just
leave it alone. *I've never seen one of those valves blow myself. *I
have seen them develop leaks that you will not notice if you route it
into your sump pit. *I have seen slow leak failures of hw tanks as
well as catastrophic failures. *All were the tank leaking, not the
safety valve. *If you want to do something to protect the floor area
of your basement I'd suggest a pan under your hw tank and route a
drain from it to your pit. *The pan will cvatch the pipe as well.


I just refinished my basement, all sheetrock. The floor is concrete,
with a layer of old 9X9 tiles, and I went over that with new 12X12
vinyl flooring. The pan was not an option because of space limitations
in the furnace room.
At least the floor is pitched towards the sump, so if anything did
happen, the water should flow right into the sump.

On Mar 7, 11:37*am, Mikepier wrote:
My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

On 3/7/2011 6:23 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Mikepier wrote:
My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

If you route whatever pipe you use directly to and into the sump, how will
you know when it blows?

Obviously the BEST way is a connector, a couple of "Ls" and 10 feet of 3/4"
copper pipe (~$200.00).



or a shark bite, a couple of l's and pipe in pvc. $10

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Mar 7, 4:23*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
Mikepier wrote:
My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

If you route whatever pipe you use directly to and into the sump, how will
you know when it blows?

Obviously the BEST way is a connector, a couple of "Ls" and 10 feet of 3/4"
copper pipe (~$200.00).

Do it with CPVC and the cost will be at most $20. Or flex plastic hose
as someone down thread suggested for a couple bucks.

Pointing it into a pan first as is also suggested will work for
'leaks' but if it ever blows from overpressure, water will splash all
over.

Harry K

Mikepier wrote:
My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

I can think of a number of fairly easy ways to do what you want.

Since you mentioned a high temp flexible hose, maybe one easy way would be
to go to an auto parts store and buy a length of radiator hose and a hose
clamp. Clamp the hose to the existing 3/4-inch copper and run it to the
sump pump pit.

Or, get some PVC pipe and fittings and run PVC from the copper to the sump
pump pit. They make PVC overflow tubes for hot water tanks that are like
the copper one you have now, so regular PVC should be okay in terms of
temperature issues etc. You could either use the same size PVC pipe and an
adapter to the copper, or you could use a larger PVC pipe and fittings --
such as 1-inch or 1 1/2 inch PVC -- and just have the copper go into the
larger PVC similar to the way a washer drain line goes into a larger washing
machine drain line.

On Mar 7, 11:35*am, harry wrote:
On Mar 7, 11:37*am, Mikepier wrote:

My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

I don't think it will ever come on in a situation like that. It will
just leach into the groundwater.
When I first put my pump in the basin, I wanted to test it. I poured a
5 gallon bucket of water in the basin to make it come on, but the
water quickly went down and the pump never turned on. I did manage to
finally turn it on with 2 buckets poured in.

On Mar 7, 8:09*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Mar 7, 6:37*am, Mikepier wrote:

My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

What kind of floor do you have? *If it's concrete I'd probably just
leave it alone. *I've never seen one of those valves blow myself. *I
have seen them develop leaks that you will not notice if you route it
into your sump pit. *I have seen slow leak failures of hw tanks as
well as catastrophic failures. *All were the tank leaking, not the
safety valve. *If you want to do something to protect the floor area
of your basement I'd suggest a pan under your hw tank and route a
drain from it to your pit. *The pan will cvatch the pipe as well.

I've had it happen at least three times that I recall. Made an unholy
mess. next place I have, if there's not a floor drain in the room w/
the WH, will have some kind of setup like the OP is describing. The T/
P valves do weaken with age, and have an unfortunate habit of sticking
open once released.

First time was Xmas morning @ my parents' house while I was home from
college. I went downstairs before anyone else got up and was going to
run some laundry; stepped into the (carpeted - really? don't worry,
that's been fixed) laundry room and was greeted with warm
squishiness. Merry freakin' Christmas, hope you weren't going to take
a nice hot shower.

nate

On Mar 7, 8:53*am, "
wrote:
On Mar 7, 8:09*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Mar 7, 6:37*am, Mikepier wrote:

My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

What kind of floor do you have? *If it's concrete I'd probably just
leave it alone. *I've never seen one of those valves blow myself. *I
have seen them develop leaks that you will not notice if you route it
into your sump pit. *I have seen slow leak failures of hw tanks as
well as catastrophic failures. *All were the tank leaking, not the
safety valve. *If you want to do something to protect the floor area
of your basement I'd suggest a pan under your hw tank and route a
drain from it to your pit. *The pan will cvatch the pipe as well.

The answer may depend on your local codes. * There is a code in
most areas that deals with how the TSP line can terminate. *I know
it specs a max height above the floor that is allowed. *And I think
I've
seen where code also specs a min height as well. *If so, that would
seem to preclude routing it directly to the sump pit..... * The idea
to
use a pan under it that would catch both the TSP water and any
water leaking from the heater tank and then route that to the sump
seems like the best idea. * *However, that only applies if you're
installing a new one and can put the pan in.- Hide quoted text -

IIRC the code says no unions in the line (which is really
inconvenient) and specifies the number of bends and total OAL of the
line. I was looking into this at my last place because I wanted to
route it into the deep sink, rather than onto the floor (which had no
floor drain.) Of course it failed before I got a round tuit, on the
upside all that hot water did a nice job of loosening the hideous peel
'n' stick tiles that I'd been meaning to scrape up anyway.

nate

"harry" wrote

If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

Not really. I run sump pumps on a regular basis up to a constant 16 hours a
day in 125 degree water and they last for years. I have another self
priming pump that will get rid of 190 degree water in a flash and has been
doing so for about 15 years, but that is only about 20 to 30 gallons at a
time.

Zoeller spec is 130 degrees and most residential water heaters are right in
that range.

On Mon, 7 Mar 2011 19:38:17 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"harry" wrote

If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

Not really. I run sump pumps on a regular basis up to a constant 16 hours a
day in 125 degree water and they last for years. I have another self
priming pump that will get rid of 190 degree water in a flash and has been
doing so for about 15 years, but that is only about 20 to 30 gallons at a
time.

Zoeller spec is 130 degrees and most residential water heaters are right in
that range.

The water will cool quite a bit before it gets to the pump too.
A little different than electric motor cooling, but this reminds me of
a time we had a small smouldering detached lagging fire
in a boiler room.
Only needed a little water to put it out.
I grabbed a bucket and filled it from the de-aerating feed tank test
tap. That's hot water - a lot of it flashes to steam as you tap it.
But there were no other fresh water taps nearby.
As I start to walk to the lagging to douse the fire, the top watch
yells, "Smith! Is that hot water?! Don't use that!"
I couldn't effin believe it.
He insisted I waste CO2 bottle charge on it.
I didn't argue much. Not worth it with this guy.

--Vic

On Mar 7, 8:30*pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 7 Mar 2011 19:38:17 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:



"harry" wrote

If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

Not really. *I run sump pumps on a regular basis up to a constant 16 hours a
day in 125 degree water and they last for years. * I have another self
priming pump that will get rid of 190 degree water in a flash and has been
doing so for about 15 years, but that is only about 20 to 30 gallons at a
time.

Zoeller spec is 130 degrees and most residential water heaters are right in
that range.

The water will cool quite a bit before it gets to the pump too.

Plus, even hot water from the water heater is sufficient to keep the
motor cool
enough so that it doesn't burn out. Many motors, pool pump motors
being an
example, run so hot you can't keep your hand on them. Same thing with
the
inducer motor in my furnace. That hot water can still absorb a lot of
heat and
keep a motor from going higher.





..

On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 19:30:32 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 7 Mar 2011 19:38:17 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"harry" wrote

If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

a submersible pump, but not a pedestal pupm.

Not really. I run sump pumps on a regular basis up to a constant 16 hours a
day in 125 degree water and they last for years. I have another self
priming pump that will get rid of 190 degree water in a flash and has been
doing so for about 15 years, but that is only about 20 to 30 gallons at a
time.

Zoeller spec is 130 degrees and most residential water heaters are right in
that range.

But when the t&p valve blows for temp, it's 210 or more. Do they
blow for temp or for pressure?

The water will cool quite a bit before it gets to the pump too.
A little different than electric motor cooling, but this reminds me of
a time we had a small smouldering detached lagging fire

What's a detached lagging?
in a boiler room.
Only needed a little water to put it out.
I grabbed a bucket and filled it from the de-aerating feed tank test
tap. That's hot water - a lot of it flashes to steam as you tap it.
But there were no other fresh water taps nearby.
As I start to walk to the lagging to douse the fire, the top watch
yells, "Smith! Is that hot water?! Don't use that!"
I couldn't effin believe it.
He insisted I waste CO2 bottle charge on it.
I didn't argue much. Not worth it with this guy.

--Vic

On Mar 7, 11:02*am, N8N wrote:
On Mar 7, 8:09*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Mar 7, 6:37*am, Mikepier wrote:

My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

What kind of floor do you have? *If it's concrete I'd probably just
leave it alone. *I've never seen one of those valves blow myself. *I
have seen them develop leaks that you will not notice if you route it
into your sump pit. *I have seen slow leak failures of hw tanks as
well as catastrophic failures. *All were the tank leaking, not the
safety valve. *If you want to do something to protect the floor area
of your basement I'd suggest a pan under your hw tank and route a
drain from it to your pit. *The pan will cvatch the pipe as well.

I've had it happen at least three times that I recall. *Made an unholy
mess. *next place I have, if there's not a floor drain in the room w/
the WH, will have some kind of setup like the OP is describing. *The T/
P valves do weaken with age, and have an unfortunate habit of sticking
open once released.

First time was Xmas morning @ my parents' house while I was home from
college. *I went downstairs before anyone else got up and was going to
run some laundry; stepped into the (carpeted - really? *don't worry,
that's been fixed) laundry room and was greeted with warm
squishiness. *Merry freakin' Christmas, hope you weren't going to take
a nice hot shower.

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Nice warm squishiness and carpet in wrong place? We rented an
apartment in Tx back when. Carpet in kitchen! Disposal vomited
contents all over it!

One sometimes wonder what both the builder and buyer thinking on some
of the idiocies one sees.

Harry K

On 3/7/2011 10:35 AM, harry wrote:
On Mar 7, 11:37 am, wrote:
My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

LMAO!! that's a good one. As good as this whole thread.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 19:30:32 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 7 Mar 2011 19:38:17 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"harry" wrote

If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

a submersible pump, but not a pedestal pupm.

Not really. I run sump pumps on a regular basis up to a constant 16
hours a
day in 125 degree water and they last for years. I have another self
priming pump that will get rid of 190 degree water in a flash and has
been
doing so for about 15 years, but that is only about 20 to 30 gallons at a
time.

Zoeller spec is 130 degrees and most residential water heaters are right
in
that range.

But when the t&p valve blows for temp, it's 210 or more. Do they
blow for temp or for pressure?


If the temperature gets too high, it will increase the pressure and can blow
it. By the time it gets to the sump, the temperature is going to be down
considerably and won't be a problem. One of the uses I have for a sump pump
is for steam boiler blowdown. The valve is manually opened and the water is
212 as it hits the flash tank. The it is pumped up about 8 feet and over to
a drain. Most times is is a 20 gallon batch of water. This is done 3 to 4
times a week in winter. The pump was there before we bought the building 10
years ago and still works fine.

On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 23:07:21 -0500, mm
wrote:

But when the t&p valve blows for temp, it's 210 or more. Do they
blow for temp or for pressure?


Both as far as I know.

What's a detached lagging?

Lagging is insulation. Don't know how the name came about.
It's what we called a certain removable insulation used in Navy fire
rooms. Engine rooms had plenty too.
Commonly used around valve flanges, superheaters or other parts that
were expected to be disassembled for maintenance.
Basically made-to-fit asbestos cloth bags. Think they were filled
with more asbestos. Can't remember ever seeing what was inside, or
seeing a torn one.
The cloth was thick and had bulit-in metal loops so you could wire it
up. I forgot most of it. Been over 40 years since I worked with it.
The detached one that was smoldering probably had oil spilled on it.
Everything was hot there.
Lit my smokes in a hole in the insulation of feed pump turbine head.
Pump was run by steam superheated to 900 F.
Don't know how much heat you need to light a smoke, but it only took a
couple puffs when stuck in there near the turbine head.
Burned my nose a couple times, but not enough to blister.

--Vic

wrote:
On Mar 7, 8:09 am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Mar 7, 6:37 am, Mikepier wrote:

My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose
rated for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way?
How is it usally done?


The answer may depend on your local codes. There is a code in
most areas that deals with how the TSP line can terminate. I know
it specs a max height above the floor that is allowed. And I think
I've
seen where code also specs a min height as well. If so, that would
seem to preclude routing it directly to the sump pit.....

If this or other possible code issues (such as "no unions" that someone else
mentioned) are an issue, then don't change anything with the existing copper
pipe. Leave it in place and do the 1 1/2 inch PVC idea I wrote about
before. Have the water from the copper pipe enter into a 1 1/2 inch PVC
drain line that runs to the sump pump pit in the same way that washing
machine hose pump water into a PVC drain line. The PVC would just be a
drain that the copper pipe outflow drains into. It would provide an air gap
and would not be an extension of the exisitng copper pipe.

On Mar 7, 11:43*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Mar 7, 11:02*am, N8N wrote:





On Mar 7, 8:09*am, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Mar 7, 6:37*am, Mikepier wrote:

My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

What kind of floor do you have? *If it's concrete I'd probably just
leave it alone. *I've never seen one of those valves blow myself. *I
have seen them develop leaks that you will not notice if you route it
into your sump pit. *I have seen slow leak failures of hw tanks as
well as catastrophic failures. *All were the tank leaking, not the
safety valve. *If you want to do something to protect the floor area
of your basement I'd suggest a pan under your hw tank and route a
drain from it to your pit. *The pan will cvatch the pipe as well.

I've had it happen at least three times that I recall. *Made an unholy
mess. *next place I have, if there's not a floor drain in the room w/
the WH, will have some kind of setup like the OP is describing. *The T/
P valves do weaken with age, and have an unfortunate habit of sticking
open once released.

First time was Xmas morning @ my parents' house while I was home from
college. *I went downstairs before anyone else got up and was going to
run some laundry; stepped into the (carpeted - really? *don't worry,
that's been fixed) laundry room and was greeted with warm
squishiness. *Merry freakin' Christmas, hope you weren't going to take
a nice hot shower.

nate

Nice warm squishiness and carpet in wrong place? *We rented an
apartment in Tx back when. *Carpet in kitchen! *Disposal vomited
contents all over it!

One sometimes wonder what both the builder and buyer thinking on some
of the idiocies one sees.

Harry K

I don't get some people... I once lived in a rental house that had
carpet both in the kitchen and in the basement (where water would
often creep under the basement door after a heavy rain.) Lovely.
Likewise I have seen carpeted laundry rooms, bathrooms (eeeeewwwww!)
you name it. I would explain it to you if I could, but I can't.

nate

On Mar 8, 7:12*am, N8N wrote:
On Mar 7, 11:43*pm, Harry K wrote:





On Mar 7, 11:02*am, N8N wrote:

On Mar 7, 8:09*am, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Mar 7, 6:37*am, Mikepier wrote:

My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

What kind of floor do you have? *If it's concrete I'd probably just
leave it alone. *I've never seen one of those valves blow myself. *I
have seen them develop leaks that you will not notice if you route it
into your sump pit. *I have seen slow leak failures of hw tanks as
well as catastrophic failures. *All were the tank leaking, not the
safety valve. *If you want to do something to protect the floor area
of your basement I'd suggest a pan under your hw tank and route a
drain from it to your pit. *The pan will cvatch the pipe as well.

I've had it happen at least three times that I recall. *Made an unholy
mess. *next place I have, if there's not a floor drain in the room w/
the WH, will have some kind of setup like the OP is describing. *The T/
P valves do weaken with age, and have an unfortunate habit of sticking
open once released.

First time was Xmas morning @ my parents' house while I was home from
college. *I went downstairs before anyone else got up and was going to
run some laundry; stepped into the (carpeted - really? *don't worry,
that's been fixed) laundry room and was greeted with warm
squishiness. *Merry freakin' Christmas, hope you weren't going to take
a nice hot shower.

nate

Nice warm squishiness and carpet in wrong place? *We rented an
apartment in Tx back when. *Carpet in kitchen! *Disposal vomited
contents all over it!

One sometimes wonder what both the builder and buyer thinking on some
of the idiocies one sees.

Harry K

I don't get some people... *I once lived in a rental house that had
carpet both in the kitchen and in the basement (where water would
often creep under the basement door after a heavy rain.) *Lovely.
Likewise I have seen carpeted laundry rooms, bathrooms (eeeeewwwww!)
you name it. *I would explain it to you if I could, but I can't.

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I have to admit that _I_ put indoor/outdoor carpeting in a finished
room in out basement...but that was only to keep peace in the house.
She relented when I showed her the mushrooms growing in it .

HarryK

On Mar 7, 8:54*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 3/7/2011 10:35 AM, harry wrote:

On Mar 7, 11:37 am, *wrote:
My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

LMAO!! *that's a good one. *As good as this whole thread.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Well, that's Harry for ya! Always good for a laugh.

Harry K

On Mar 8, 3:52*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Mar 7, 8:54*pm, Steve Barker wrote:





On 3/7/2011 10:35 AM, harry wrote:

On Mar 7, 11:37 am, *wrote:
My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

LMAO!! *that's a good one. *As good as this whole thread.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Well, that's Harry for ya! *Always good for a laugh.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sump pumps are normaly designed for cold water. They have no other
form of cooling than the water that passes through therm. Hence they
will burn out in hot water unless specially designed for this purpose.
If you run them for long enough with the outlet closed off, the water
will heat up and the pump motor will burn out.

Applies to any submersible pump including wells.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Submers...p#Applications

Can't believe how stupid some of you Yanks are.
Did you never go to school?

On Mar 8, 11:43*am, Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 23:07:21 -0500, mm
wrote:



But when the t&p valve blows for temp, it's 210 or more. * Do they
blow for temp or for pressure?

Both as far as I know.

What's a detached lagging?

Lagging is insulation. *Don't know how the name came about.
It's what we called a certain removable insulation used in Navy fire
rooms. *Engine rooms had plenty too.
Commonly used around valve flanges, superheaters or other parts that
were expected to be disassembled for maintenance.
Basically made-to-fit asbestos cloth bags. *Think they were filled
with more asbestos. *Can't remember ever seeing what was inside, or
seeing a torn one.
The cloth was thick and had bulit-in metal loops so you could wire it
up. *I forgot most of it. *Been over 40 years since I worked with it.
The detached one that was smoldering probably had oil spilled on it.
Everything was hot there.
Lit my smokes in a hole in the insulation of feed pump turbine head.
Pump was run by steam superheated to 900 F.
Don't know how much heat you need to light a smoke, but it only took a
couple puffs when stuck in there near the turbine head.
Burned my nose a couple times, but not enough to blister.

--Vic

Yes, lagging is another word for insulation. There are a lot of people
here don't speak proper English & might not know this.

On 3/8/2011 1:09 PM, harry wrote:
On Mar 8, 11:43 am, Vic wrote:
On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 23:07:21 -0500,
wrote:



But when the t&p valve blows for temp, it's 210 or more. Do they
blow for temp or for pressure?

Both as far as I know.

What's a detached lagging?

Lagging is insulation. Don't know how the name came about.
It's what we called a certain removable insulation used in Navy fire
rooms. Engine rooms had plenty too.
Commonly used around valve flanges, superheaters or other parts that
were expected to be disassembled for maintenance.
Basically made-to-fit asbestos cloth bags. Think they were filled
with more asbestos. Can't remember ever seeing what was inside, or
seeing a torn one.
The cloth was thick and had bulit-in metal loops so you could wire it
up. I forgot most of it. Been over 40 years since I worked with it.
The detached one that was smoldering probably had oil spilled on it.
Everything was hot there.
Lit my smokes in a hole in the insulation of feed pump turbine head.
Pump was run by steam superheated to 900 F.
Don't know how much heat you need to light a smoke, but it only took a
couple puffs when stuck in there near the turbine head.
Burned my nose a couple times, but not enough to blister.

--Vic

Yes, lagging is another word for insulation. There are a lot of people
here don't speak proper English& might not know this.

Most Americans, especially those outside the building mechanical field,
will interpret "lagging" to mean "falling behind".

TDD

"harry" wrote in message
...
On Mar 7, 11:37 am, Mikepier wrote:
My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

"If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

Depends!

The "submurgable" pumps are water cooled. But most household pumps have an
air cooled motor that's feet above the water that's being pumped. In any
case, modern insulation on modern motors can withstand "too hot to touch"
temperatures. By the time the motor heat ups, the worse of the crisis will
be over and it will be water rather than steam coming out of the TP valve.

While those valves don't "pop" very often when they do, they will vent
mostly steam (they are mounted at the top of the tank) and are sized so that
even with the heat source "locked on" they will keep the pressure within
safe limits. The pipe should be copper as plastic just isn't rated to work
at steam temperatures. If it goes to the sump, the cover should have
several square inches of "vent space" or else the cover might end up in
another corner of your basement!

If your PT valve "leaks" the possibility exists that there is a check valve
which prevents the expansion of the water by pushing back. The solution is
one of those "expansion" tanks tanks.

On Mar 8, 7:35*pm, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
On 3/8/2011 1:09 PM, harry wrote:





On Mar 8, 11:43 am, Vic *wrote:
On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 23:07:21 -0500,
wrote:

But when the t&p valve blows for temp, it's 210 or more. * Do they
blow for temp or for pressure?

Both as far as I know.

What's a detached lagging?

Lagging is insulation. *Don't know how the name came about.
It's what we called a certain removable insulation used in Navy fire
rooms. *Engine rooms had plenty too.
Commonly used around valve flanges, superheaters or other parts that
were expected to be disassembled for maintenance.
Basically made-to-fit asbestos cloth bags. *Think they were filled
with more asbestos. *Can't remember ever seeing what was inside, or
seeing a torn one.
The cloth was thick and had bulit-in metal loops so you could wire it
up. *I forgot most of it. *Been over 40 years since I worked with it.
The detached one that was smoldering probably had oil spilled on it.
Everything was hot there.
Lit my smokes in a hole in the insulation of feed pump turbine head.
Pump was run by steam superheated to 900 F.
Don't know how much heat you need to light a smoke, but it only took a
couple puffs when stuck in there near the turbine head.
Burned my nose a couple times, but not enough to blister.

--Vic

Yes, lagging is another word for insulation. There are a lot of people
here don't speak proper English& *might not know this.

Most Americans, especially those outside the building mechanical field,
will interpret "lagging" to mean "falling behind".

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, another meaning. Both are in common use in the UK, seems they are
used more locally in the US. But not the same as insular.
There are lots of words like this.
But it only takes a few key strokes to verify these things.

On 3/8/2011 1:47 PM, harry wrote:
On Mar 8, 7:35 pm, The Daring
wrote:
On 3/8/2011 1:09 PM, harry wrote:





On Mar 8, 11:43 am, Vic wrote:
On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 23:07:21 -0500,
wrote:

But when the t&p valve blows for temp, it's 210 or more. Do they
blow for temp or for pressure?

Both as far as I know.

What's a detached lagging?

Lagging is insulation. Don't know how the name came about.
It's what we called a certain removable insulation used in Navy fire
rooms. Engine rooms had plenty too.
Commonly used around valve flanges, superheaters or other parts that
were expected to be disassembled for maintenance.
Basically made-to-fit asbestos cloth bags. Think they were filled
with more asbestos. Can't remember ever seeing what was inside, or
seeing a torn one.
The cloth was thick and had bulit-in metal loops so you could wire it
up. I forgot most of it. Been over 40 years since I worked with it.
The detached one that was smoldering probably had oil spilled on it.
Everything was hot there.
Lit my smokes in a hole in the insulation of feed pump turbine head.
Pump was run by steam superheated to 900 F.
Don't know how much heat you need to light a smoke, but it only took a
couple puffs when stuck in there near the turbine head.
Burned my nose a couple times, but not enough to blister.

--Vic

Yes, lagging is another word for insulation. There are a lot of people
here don't speak proper English& might not know this.

Most Americans, especially those outside the building mechanical field,
will interpret "lagging" to mean "falling behind".

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, another meaning. Both are in common use in the UK, seems they are
used more locally in the US. But not the same as insular.
There are lots of words like this.
But it only takes a few key strokes to verify these things.

You guys talk funny. ^_^

TDD

On Mar 8, 6:43*am, Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 23:07:21 -0500, mm
wrote:



But when the t&p valve blows for temp, it's 210 or more. * Do they
blow for temp or for pressure?

Both as far as I know.

What's a detached lagging?

Lagging is insulation. *Don't know how the name came about.
It's what we called a certain removable insulation used in Navy fire
rooms. *Engine rooms had plenty too.
Commonly used around valve flanges, superheaters or other parts that
were expected to be disassembled for maintenance.
Basically made-to-fit asbestos cloth bags. *Think they were filled
with more asbestos. *Can't remember ever seeing what was inside, or
seeing a torn one.
The cloth was thick and had bulit-in metal loops so you could wire it
up. *I forgot most of it. *Been over 40 years since I worked with it.
The detached one that was smoldering probably had oil spilled on it.
Everything was hot there.
Lit my smokes in a hole in the insulation of feed pump turbine head.
Pump was run by steam superheated to 900 F.
Don't know how much heat you need to light a smoke, but it only took a
couple puffs when stuck in there near the turbine head.
Burned my nose a couple times, but not enough to blister.

--Vic

Thats what we call soft flexible "bricks" used for removable fire stop
like where a cable tray goes through a wall.

Jimmie

On 3/8/2011 12:55 PM, harry wrote:
On Mar 8, 3:52 pm, Harry wrote:
On Mar 7, 8:54 pm, Steve wrote:





On 3/7/2011 10:35 AM, harry wrote:

On Mar 7, 11:37 am, wrote:
My water heater has a 3/4" copper pipe from the T&P valve extending
down about 8" from the floor. I have a sump pit about 5 feet to the
left. I wanted to somehow route this discharge pipe into the pit in
case somethig happens.
Obviously it would be easy if I used some kind of flexible hose rated
for high temps. Is there anything wrong in doing it this way? How is
it usally done?

If you have a sump pump and it starts up, it will burn out very
quickly, they are water cooled. Hot water is not going to cool it.

LMAO!! that's a good one. As good as this whole thread.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Well, that's Harry for ya! Always good for a laugh.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sump pumps are normaly designed for cold water. They have no other
form of cooling than the water that passes through therm. Hence they
will burn out in hot water unless specially designed for this purpose.
If you run them for long enough with the outlet closed off, the water
will heat up and the pump motor will burn out.

Applies to any submersible pump including wells.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Submers...p#Applications

Can't believe how stupid some of you Yanks are.
Did you never go to school?




that is the biggest crock of **** i've ever heard. I'll not even argue
the point except to say i've run tens of thousands of gallons of hot
water through submersible sump pumps and never had a heat related failure.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Tue, 08 Mar 2011 14:58:59 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

Yes, another meaning. Both are in common use in the UK, seems they are
used more locally in the US. But not the same as insular.
There are lots of words like this.
But it only takes a few key strokes to verify these things.

You guys talk funny. ^_^

So do the females.

One blonde gal can be a hoot.

'bleedin gobin' I swear Hilda made up that term.

On Tue, 08 Mar 2011 05:43:55 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 23:07:21 -0500, mm
wrote:

But when the t&p valve blows for temp, it's 210 or more. Do they
blow for temp or for pressure?


Both as far as I know.

What's a detached lagging?

Lagging is insulation. Don't know how the name came about.
It's what we called a certain removable insulation used in Navy fire
rooms. Engine rooms had plenty too.
Commonly used around valve flanges, superheaters or other parts that
were expected to be disassembled for maintenance.
Basically made-to-fit asbestos cloth bags. Think they were filled
with more asbestos. Can't remember ever seeing what was inside, or
seeing a torn one.
The cloth was thick and had bulit-in metal loops so you could wire it
up. I forgot most of it. Been over 40 years since I worked with it.
The detached one that was smoldering probably had oil spilled on it.
Everything was hot there.
Lit my smokes in a hole in the insulation of feed pump turbine head.
Pump was run by steam superheated to 900 F.
Don't know how much heat you need to light a smoke, but it only took a
couple puffs when stuck in there near the turbine head.
Burned my nose a couple times, but not enough to blister.

--Vic

Thanks, Vic. Glad you weren't blistered.