Buying a used air compressor: tips?
I'm thinking about buying a used electric air compressor for light use
around the house. I've owned a compressor before, but I've never bought a used one before. What should I watch out for, apart from the obvious points of avoiding anything that doesn't work or is heavily worn or visibly damaged? |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On Feb 6, 11:14*pm, Jonathan Sachs wrote:
I'm thinking about buying a used electric air compressor for light use around the house. I've owned a compressor before, but I've never bought a used one before. What should I watch out for, apart from the obvious points of avoiding anything that doesn't work or is heavily worn or visibly damaged? == I've seen new light duty ones made in China for $88 with 25 foot hose and various attachments. If you're not in a hurry watch the ads. New at that price complete with hose is a better deal than used. == |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On 02/07/2011 02:09 AM, Roy wrote:
On Feb 6, 11:14 pm, Jonathan wrote: I'm thinking about buying a used electric air compressor for light use around the house. I've owned a compressor before, but I've never bought a used one before. What should I watch out for, apart from the obvious points of avoiding anything that doesn't work or is heavily worn or visibly damaged? == I've seen new light duty ones made in China for $88 with 25 foot hose and various attachments. If you're not in a hurry watch the ads. New at that price complete with hose is a better deal than used. == Only if he really is planning on "light" use as he says. otherwise I would hold out for a quality one with a compressor built like a car engine, not one of those loud "oilless" things nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On 2/7/2011 2:09 AM, Roy wrote:
On Feb 6, 11:14 pm, Jonathan wrote: I'm thinking about buying a used electric air compressor for light use around the house. I've owned a compressor before, but I've never bought a used one before. What should I watch out for, apart from the obvious points of avoiding anything that doesn't work or is heavily worn or visibly damaged? == I've seen new light duty ones made in China for $88 with 25 foot hose and various attachments. If you're not in a hurry watch the ads. New at that price complete with hose is a better deal than used. == Depends what a "better deal" means. I would prefer to have a quality used device over a cheaply made new one. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
"Jonathan Sachs" wrote in message ... I'm thinking about buying a used electric air compressor for light use around the house. I've owned a compressor before, but I've never bought a used one before. What should I watch out for, apart from the obvious points of avoiding anything that doesn't work or is heavily worn or visibly damaged? You can get some good deals at pawn shops. Buy a brand name, and buy one that looks clean, that's about all I can suggest. If you're just going to use it for nailers, etc, you don't need much, and as long as it will build up pressure, and doesn't leak, there isn't much else. Take a bottle of Windex, and pressure it up, and test for leaks. Open up the bleeder valve on the bottom once it's pressured up, and see if any water comes out. If it does, pass. It means the owner hasn't bled it regularly, and there will be water and rust inside the tank. Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. Download the book. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
"Nate Nagel" wrote in message ... On 02/07/2011 02:09 AM, Roy wrote: On Feb 6, 11:14 pm, Jonathan wrote: I'm thinking about buying a used electric air compressor for light use around the house. I've owned a compressor before, but I've never bought a used one before. What should I watch out for, apart from the obvious points of avoiding anything that doesn't work or is heavily worn or visibly damaged? == I've seen new light duty ones made in China for $88 with 25 foot hose and various attachments. If you're not in a hurry watch the ads. New at that price complete with hose is a better deal than used. == Only if he really is planning on "light" use as he says. otherwise I would hold out for a quality one with a compressor built like a car engine, not one of those loud "oilless" things nate Those loud ones are about as obnoxious as a bitchy loud woman. But they're about all you can get now for the light ones. Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. Download the book. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
"George" wrote Depends what a "better deal" means. I would prefer to have a quality used device over a cheaply made new one. Deal means cost divided by years owned. Some of the old ones have more life left on them than the brand new cheesy ones. Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. Download the book. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
wrote You really need to figure out what you will do with it to know what size you need. Just about anything will air up tires. Once you get into air tools, you need a big enough compressor to run them. Nail guns and such need 100 PSI or so but they don't need a lot of volume. Painting, OTOH usually needs a lot of volume. Things like air chisels are also air hogs. Lots of tires today take more than the 32 psi than our father's cars and the ones we drove in our teenagerhood. But yeah, most compressors will put enough air in them to get to the tire store even if they do have to work a while. And anything will blow up bikes, motorcycles, those temporary plastic dates, etc. Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. Download the book. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On Mon, 07 Feb 2011 08:02:40 -0500, George
wrote: Depends what a "better deal" means. I would prefer to have a quality used device over a cheaply made new one. My feelings exactly. For my intended uses I could probably get away with an $88 piece of junk, but I prefer to buy good tools and keep them as long as I need them. "Measure twice, buy once." |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
In article ,
Jonathan Sachs wrote: On Mon, 07 Feb 2011 08:02:40 -0500, George wrote: Depends what a "better deal" means. I would prefer to have a quality used device over a cheaply made new one. My feelings exactly. For my intended uses I could probably get away with an $88 piece of junk, but I prefer to buy good tools and keep them as long as I need them. "Measure twice, buy once." Whenever I buy anything used, the most important thing I look for is the character of the seller. I walked away from a fantastic deal on a great truck recently, because something just didn't smell right. Everything looked good and sounded good, but under the surface was something fishy. I'd by a used compressor from a one-man shop where the owner was retiring. Other than that, most people wouldn't sell a good compressor, because most people don't sell serviceable tools just to buy a new one. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
Smitty Two wrote:
Other than that, most people wouldn't sell a good compressor, because most people don't sell serviceable tools just to buy a new one. Nonsense. The guy I bought my compressor from sold it to me because he wanted a bigger compressor (bigger tank/more air output). I got a good deal on it because the regulator was busted, which was no big deal to me (I used the regulator I had purchased for my previous compressor). Like the fellow that I purchased my current compressor from, I sold my smaller compressor because it failed to deliver the output that I needed. Some tools are sold because the owner grew out of them: it's the same deal with my drill press, too; I sold the little one once I bought a bigger one, and didn't have the need or space to keep the old one around. Jon |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
|
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On 2/7/2011 2:06 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
wrote: If it is 120v it will not be more than 1HP. Nonsense. My compressor (Ciasons Industrial) came with a Magnetek/Century motor on it, rated 3HP SPL, 115V/15A. It will also run configured as 230V/7.5A, but it came to me wired for 115, and that's the way I've been using it since I purchased it a few years ago. Jon Your motor is rated wrong. Some call it "peak horsepower". A real 3HP motor at 115VAC will draw 19.46 amps. I have a ~ 35 year old 1HP Sears compressor. I also have a "2HP" craftsman compressor (someone gave it to me). The older 1HP one puts out over 2 times the CFM than the newer 2HP one. Forget the motor rating, the CFM is what matters. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On 2/7/2011 1:14 AM, Jonathan Sachs wrote:
I'm thinking about buying a used electric air compressor for light use around the house. I've owned a compressor before, but I've never bought a used one before. What should I watch out for, apart from the obvious points of avoiding anything that doesn't work or is heavily worn or visibly damaged? Do not buy an "oilless" piece of crap. Go for a belt driven compressor that does require oil. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
My oilless compressor was $40 at HF, and has
served me well for a year or more, now. For some purposes, they are fine. Mine has aired up lots of tires, blown dust out of condensors, and done some occasional air tool work. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Tony Miklos" wrote in message ... Do not buy an "oilless" piece of crap. Go for a belt driven compressor that does require oil. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
"Jonathan Sachs" wrote in message ... I'm thinking about buying a used electric air compressor for light use around the house. Considering your requirements you could easily find a new compressor for so cheap that looking for a used one almost seems pointless. Keep an eye on Harbor Freight ads, they have little pancake compressors for fifty or sixty bucks quite often. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
Tony Miklos wrote:
Jon Danniken wrote: wrote: If it is 120v it will not be more than 1HP. Nonsense. My compressor (Ciasons Industrial) came with a Magnetek/Century motor on it, rated 3HP SPL, 115V/15A. It will also run configured as 230V/7.5A, but it came to me wired for 115, and that's the way I've been using it since I purchased it a few years ago. Your motor is rated wrong. Some call it "peak horsepower". A real 3HP motor at 115VAC will draw 19.46 amps. No, the motor is rated correctly; your confusion arises because you do not understand the nomenclature used on electric motors. especially those used on air compressors. As I stated previously, the motor is a 3HP SPL, and is rated 15 amps at 115 volts. 15 amps at 115 volts is 1725VA, or 2.3HP continuous duty. Because this is a compressor, the 3HP SPL refers to the fact that the motor will safely deliver 3HP during an overload condition when it called on, namely for the last few minutes of filling the tank up. Jon |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
I've got one of these, and it serves me well.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallo...sor-95275.html It's good for tires. Or blowing dust out of condensors. A bit slow for air tools. Watch the sale ads, sometimes down to $40 I think. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "DGDevin" wrote in message ... Considering your requirements you could easily find a new compressor for so cheap that looking for a used one almost seems pointless. Keep an eye on Harbor Freight ads, they have little pancake compressors for fifty or sixty bucks quite often. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On Feb 7, 4:22*pm, "Jon Danniken"
wrote: wrote: Jon Danniken wrote: wrote: *If it is 120v it will not be more than 1HP. Nonsense. *My compressor (Ciasons Industrial) came with a Magnetek/Century motor on it, rated 3HP SPL, 115V/15A. *It will also run configured as 230V/7.5A, but it came to me wired for 115, and that's the way I've been using it since I purchased it a few years ago. Jon Look around, that may have been in the class action suit. No, it is still a current model, and there is no inaccuracy with the way it is being marketed or sold. *Perhaps you might want to learn more about motors before you spout off about things you do not fully understand. Jon one horsepower *is equivalent to* 746W. (both HP and Watts are units of power, just in different measurement systems.) Therefore a 3HP motor, if 100% efficient, would draw 2238W or 19.46A @ 115V. IRL it would either draw slightly more, or put out slightly less than 3HP. Pesky laws of thermodynamics. a 15A circuit by definition cannot provide more than 1725W @ 115V, and it would be a bad practice to expect it to do so. A load that large should really be connected to a 20A or larger circuit. nate |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
N8N wrote:
On Feb 7, 4:22 pm, "Jon Danniken" wrote: wrote: Jon Danniken wrote: wrote: If it is 120v it will not be more than 1HP. Nonsense. My compressor (Ciasons Industrial) came with a Magnetek/Century motor on it, rated 3HP SPL, 115V/15A. It will also run configured as 230V/7.5A, but it came to me wired for 115, and that's the way I've been using it since I purchased it a few years ago. Jon Look around, that may have been in the class action suit. No, it is still a current model, and there is no inaccuracy with the way it is being marketed or sold. Perhaps you might want to learn more about motors before you spout off about things you do not fully understand. Jon one horsepower *is equivalent to* 746W. (both HP and Watts are units of power, just in different measurement systems.) Therefore a 3HP motor, if 100% efficient, would draw 2238W or 19.46A @ 115V. IRL it would either draw slightly more, or put out slightly less than 3HP. Pesky laws of thermodynamics. Not entirely correct, but you are confused enough already, so we can just call that good enough for now. The important point is that the motor is not rated as a 3HP motor, but instead, as I have already stated a half-dozen times in this thread, a 3HP SPL motor. a 15A circuit by definition cannot provide more than 1725W @ 115V, and it would be a bad practice to expect it to do so. A load that large should really be connected to a 20A or larger circuit. And it is, of course. I think the main issue here is not so much the way that motors are rated, but at the reluctance of a typical end user educate himself beyond his ignorance. Jon |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On 2/7/2011 4:12 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
My oilless compressor was $40 at HF, and has served me well for a year or more, now. For some purposes, they are fine. Mine has aired up lots of tires, blown dust out of condensors, and done some occasional air tool work. Good to hear. I had just bought one at HF. Little irritated that salesman said it was all I needed for inflating tires but when home and opened, there was no tubing or attachments so I bought a set at HD for about $17. Still a good deal and appears to work fine. Also finally got my free HF flashlight. Much brighter than I expected. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On 2/7/2011 4:21 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've got one of these, and it serves me well. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallo...sor-95275.html It's good for tires. Or blowing dust out of condensors. A bit slow for air tools. Watch the sale ads, sometimes down to $40 I think. That was the exact one I got with coupon - $39.99. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On Feb 7, 5:18*pm, "Jon Danniken"
wrote: N8N wrote: On Feb 7, 4:22 pm, "Jon Danniken" wrote: wrote: Jon Danniken wrote: wrote: If it is 120v it will not be more than 1HP. Nonsense. My compressor (Ciasons Industrial) came with a Magnetek/Century motor on it, rated 3HP SPL, 115V/15A. It will also run configured as 230V/7.5A, but it came to me wired for 115, and that's the way I've been using it since I purchased it a few years ago. Jon Look around, that may have been in the class action suit. No, it is still a current model, and there is no inaccuracy with the way it is being marketed or sold. Perhaps you might want to learn more about motors before you spout off about things you do not fully understand. Jon one horsepower *is equivalent to* 746W. *(both HP and Watts are units of power, just in different measurement systems.) *Therefore a 3HP motor, if 100% efficient, would draw 2238W or 19.46A @ 115V. *IRL it would either draw slightly more, or put out slightly less than 3HP. Pesky laws of thermodynamics. Not entirely correct, but you are confused enough already, so we can just call that good enough for now. *The important point is that the motor is not rated as a 3HP motor, but instead, as I have already stated a half-dozen times in this thread, a 3HP SPL motor. Which is clearly marketing BS. I don't know or care what "SPL" means nor is a web search much help (other than some suggestions by forum posters that it stands for "Special" or "Split Phase" the latter of which is clearly false.) What is important to me is what the full load but running power of a motor is. Or in this context, really, what the compressor as a whole's max CFM is at what PSI. a 15A circuit by definition cannot provide more than 1725W @ 115V, and it would be a bad practice to expect it to do so. *A load that large should really be connected to a 20A or larger circuit. And it is, of course. I think the main issue here is not so much the way that motors are rated, but at the reluctance of a typical end user educate himself beyond his ignorance. I know enough to know that I take any electric motor's "HP" ratings with a grain of salt and look at amp draw and in the context of an air compressor, CFM@PSI instead when trying to compare. nate |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
"N8N" wrote I know enough to know that I take any electric motor's "HP" ratings with a grain of salt and look at amp draw and in the context of an air compressor, CFM@PSI instead when trying to compare. nate And I believe none of what I hear and half of what I see when it comes to hp and cfm ratings on compressors. I tend to overbuy on everything, figuring I'll take it to burnout mode at least once. That's when you see how it really runs with the tool you want to use. And sometimes, you have to compromise and let it get a full tank to work that half inch impact to get those lug nuts off. And it won't run some other heavy demand air tools. But unless you are making money with it, you can live with it. I got a stand up 33 gallon tank 2 hp (IIRC) Husky, and it does all I want it to, although sometimes I have to wait for it to catch up. If it was costing me money, I'd go get one of those honking tall as I am two stage brand name ones. Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. Download the book. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
In article ,
"Jon Danniken" wrote: Smitty Two wrote: Other than that, most people wouldn't sell a good compressor, because most people don't sell serviceable tools just to buy a new one. Nonsense. The guy I bought my compressor from sold it to me because he wanted a bigger compressor (bigger tank/more air output). I got a good deal on it because the regulator was busted, which was no big deal to me (I used the regulator I had purchased for my previous compressor). Like the fellow that I purchased my current compressor from, I sold my smaller compressor because it failed to deliver the output that I needed. Some tools are sold because the owner grew out of them: it's the same deal with my drill press, too; I sold the little one once I bought a bigger one, and didn't have the need or space to keep the old one around. Jon Air compressors, like chain saws, are almost always viciously abused. My shop neighbor runs his 24/7 (as required by demand including system leaks) and I doubt he's ever changed the oil in it. That's typical. I'm glad you're happy with your purchase. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
In article ,
Tony Miklos wrote: Do not buy an "oilless" piece of crap. And do not buy an oiled piece of crap. "Oilless" and "piece of crap" are *not* synonymous. My oil free compressor was about $600, and I love it. It's also very quiet, BTW. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
|
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
Worth noting, is that all compressors are lubricated.
Some splash oil from a crankcase. Others have oiled bronze surface, that contains oil already. Harbor Freight has a 2 HP model with either pancake tank, or two tubes. Probably pretty small horses, though. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Jonathan Sachs" wrote in message ... Last time I owned a compressor it was a dual-tank Emglo. I think it was rated at 1 1/2 HP and drew about 14 amps. I'll be perfectly happy to get something similar now, although I'd prefer one that's less noisy. I understand that the lubricated models make less noise. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
I've thought for a while, that a used water heater might
serve as an expansion tank for a compressor. Hook your existing compressor to a 82 gal water heater tank (empty of course) and you'd have longer run time between fill ups. Your first fill up would take a while. For quiet, a refrigerator or AC compressor will serve, if you change the oil. Of course, this post won't be much help for the OP. But it's fun to dream about. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Steve B" wrote in message ... "N8N" wrote I know enough to know that I take any electric motor's "HP" ratings with a grain of salt and look at amp draw and in the context of an air compressor, CFM@PSI instead when trying to compare. nate And I believe none of what I hear and half of what I see when it comes to hp and cfm ratings on compressors. I tend to overbuy on everything, figuring I'll take it to burnout mode at least once. That's when you see how it really runs with the tool you want to use. And sometimes, you have to compromise and let it get a full tank to work that half inch impact to get those lug nuts off. And it won't run some other heavy demand air tools. But unless you are making money with it, you can live with it. I got a stand up 33 gallon tank 2 hp (IIRC) Husky, and it does all I want it to, although sometimes I have to wait for it to catch up. If it was costing me money, I'd go get one of those honking tall as I am two stage brand name ones. Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. Download the book. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
?
"N8N" wrote Nonsense. My compressor (Ciasons Industrial) came with a Magnetek/Century motor on it, rated 3HP SPL, 115V/15A. It will also run configured as 230V/7.5A, but it came to me wired for 115, and that's the way I've been using it since I purchased it a few years ago. one horsepower *is equivalent to* 746W. (both HP and Watts are units of power, just in different measurement systems.) Therefore a 3HP motor, if 100% efficient, would draw 2238W or 19.46A @ 115V. IRL it would either draw slightly more, or put out slightly less than 3HP. Pesky laws of thermodynamics. Not entirely correct, but you are confused enough already, so we can just call that good enough for now. The important point is that the motor is not rated as a 3HP motor, but instead, as I have already stated a half-dozen times in this thread, a 3HP SPL motor. Which is clearly marketing BS. I don't know or care what "SPL" means nor is a web search much help (other than some suggestions by forum posters that it stands for "Special" or "Split Phase" the latter of which is clearly false.) What is important to me is what the full load but running power of a motor is. Or in this context, really, what the compressor as a whole's max CFM is at what PSI. Once apon a time, sleazy tool makers used a horsepower rating taken just as the motor stalls from load rather than actual running power like they should. Craftsman saws were all 3 or more HP and compressors used similar tactics. The SPL probably stands for something like "Stall Power Load" or similar fairy tale rating. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
"Jonathan Sachs" wrote in message ... On Mon, 07 Feb 2011 10:56:41 -0500, wrote: You really need to figure out what you will do with it... I asked about how to choose a reliable used compressor, not how to select an appropriate one, but your comment is constructive, and deserves a response. I will be using the compressor for small construction and woodworking projects. The tools I'll probably use most will be a utility stapler and a finish nailer. I might do some painting, but that will so rare that I wouldn't want to get a larger (costlier, heavier, more power hungry) compressor to keep up with a paint gun. Last time I owned a compressor it was a dual-tank Emglo. I think it was rated at 1 1/2 HP and drew about 14 amps. I'll be perfectly happy to get something similar now, although I'd prefer one that's less noisy. I understand that the lubricated models make less noise. Matching a compressor to the job is just a good idea. One that is running 100% of the time will wear out a lot faster. You may need more than one compressor. Steve |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On 2/7/2011 4:13 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
Tony Miklos wrote: Jon Danniken wrote: wrote: If it is 120v it will not be more than 1HP. Nonsense. My compressor (Ciasons Industrial) came with a Magnetek/Century motor on it, rated 3HP SPL, 115V/15A. It will also run configured as 230V/7.5A, but it came to me wired for 115, and that's the way I've been using it since I purchased it a few years ago. Your motor is rated wrong. Some call it "peak horsepower". A real 3HP motor at 115VAC will draw 19.46 amps. No, the motor is rated correctly; your confusion arises because you do not understand the nomenclature used on electric motors. especially those used on air compressors. As I stated previously, the motor is a 3HP SPL, and is rated 15 amps at 115 volts. 15 amps at 115 volts is 1725VA, or 2.3HP continuous duty. Because this is a compressor, the 3HP SPL refers to the fact that the motor will safely deliver 3HP during an overload condition when it called on, namely for the last few minutes of filling the tank up. Jon OK,you got me. I didn't notice the SPL or I would have looked it up. It's all bull**** though. Different ways of rating them so it sounds like it's bigger than it is. It's comparable to stereo amps and speakers rated at 100 watts per channel. The old way of figuring watts was RMS, then someone got the idea of rating what its peak wattage is for a split second. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On 2/7/2011 9:18 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
In , Tony wrote: Do not buy an "oilless" piece of crap. And do not buy an oiled piece of crap. "Oilless" and "piece of crap" are *not* synonymous. My oil free compressor was about $600, and I love it. It's also very quiet, BTW. Really? A quiet oilless? Now I am curious how many HP it says and what the CFM at 90# is? And were you able to hear it run before buying it or had you heard it is quiet from someone else? |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
?
wrote Really? A quiet oilless? Now I am curious how many HP it says and what the CFM at 90# is? And were you able to hear it run before buying it or had you heard it is quiet from someone else? Gast makes some quiet oil less compressors and some are even rated for "breathing" air with a decent filter. Many are oiless design so they can make breathing air for various applications needing it. Most are more than $99 though. Much more. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
On 2/7/2011 5:18 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
N8N wrote: On Feb 7, 4:22 pm, "Jon Danniken" wrote: wrote: Jon Danniken wrote: wrote: If it is 120v it will not be more than 1HP. Nonsense. My compressor (Ciasons Industrial) came with a Magnetek/Century motor on it, rated 3HP SPL, 115V/15A. It will also run configured as 230V/7.5A, but it came to me wired for 115, and that's the way I've been using it since I purchased it a few years ago. Jon Look around, that may have been in the class action suit. No, it is still a current model, and there is no inaccuracy with the way it is being marketed or sold. Perhaps you might want to learn more about motors before you spout off about things you do not fully understand. Jon one horsepower *is equivalent to* 746W. (both HP and Watts are units of power, just in different measurement systems.) Therefore a 3HP motor, if 100% efficient, would draw 2238W or 19.46A @ 115V. IRL it would either draw slightly more, or put out slightly less than 3HP. Pesky laws of thermodynamics. Not entirely correct, but you are confused enough already, so we can just call that good enough for now. The important point is that the motor is not rated as a 3HP motor, but instead, as I have already stated a half-dozen times in this thread, a 3HP SPL motor. a 15A circuit by definition cannot provide more than 1725W @ 115V, and it would be a bad practice to expect it to do so. A load that large should really be connected to a 20A or larger circuit. And it is, of course. I think the main issue here is not so much the way that motors are rated, but at the reluctance of a typical end user educate himself beyond his ignorance. Jon So are you claiming that we should simply "educate ourselves" and apparently accept whatever nonsense the big box marketing department invents instead of calling them on their sleezy tactics? |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
Yes, they also need atachments. I've spent more on hoses,
fittings, blow guns, tire chucks, than I spent on the original compressor. Oh, well. They really tightened up the free flashlight hand outs. Now, need $19.99 purchase to go with. I didn't see that free flash light big lasting forever. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Frank" wrote in message ... On 2/7/2011 4:12 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: My oilless compressor was $40 at HF, and has Good to hear. I had just bought one at HF. Little irritated that salesman said it was all I needed for inflating tires but when home and opened, there was no tubing or attachments so I bought a set at HD for about $17. Still a good deal and appears to work fine. Also finally got my free HF flashlight. Much brighter than I expected. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
You da man! I think I paid 50 for mine, didn't wait long
enough. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Frank" wrote in message ... On 2/7/2011 4:21 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: I've got one of these, and it serves me well. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallo...sor-95275.html It's good for tires. Or blowing dust out of condensors. A bit slow for air tools. Watch the sale ads, sometimes down to $40 I think. That was the exact one I got with coupon - $39.99. |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
N8N wrote:
On Feb 7, 4:22 pm, "Jon Danniken" wrote: wrote: Jon Danniken wrote: wrote: If it is 120v it will not be more than 1HP. Nonsense. My compressor (Ciasons Industrial) came with a Magnetek/Century motor on it, rated 3HP SPL, 115V/15A. It will also run configured as 230V/7.5A, but it came to me wired for 115, and that's the way I've been using it since I purchased it a few years ago. Jon Look around, that may have been in the class action suit. No, it is still a current model, and there is no inaccuracy with the way it is being marketed or sold. Perhaps you might want to learn more about motors before you spout off about things you do not fully understand. Jon Yea g, what do you know about motors... one horsepower *is equivalent to* 746W. (both HP and Watts are units of power, just in different measurement systems.) Therefore a 3HP motor, if 100% efficient, would draw 2238W or 19.46A @ 115V. IRL it would either draw slightly more, or put out slightly less than 3HP. Pesky laws of thermodynamics. In addition to efficiency there is also power factor. The NEC has motor tables that are used for sizing wire and some other purposes. A 120V 3HP motor has a table value of 34A. A real 3HP motor is likely somewhat less. --------------- IMHO if you connect the motor, the NEC requires the conductors be rated 125% of 34A = 42A. The NEC says nothing about SPL. a 15A circuit by definition cannot provide more than 1725W @ 115V, and it would be a bad practice to expect it to do so. A load that large should really be connected to a 20A or larger circuit. There is also the problem of starting the motor when the starting current is about 6x the run current. ------------- A lot of people here work with electric motors - no one seems to know what SPL is. Jon might but he isn't saying much. Does not appear to be a standard motor term. I agree with everyone but Jon that it is an excuse to lie. -- bud-- |
Buying a used air compressor: tips?
bud-- wrote:
A lot of people here work with electric motors - no one seems to know what SPL is. Jon might but he isn't saying much. The two local motor rewinders that I called yesterday told me it stood for "special", as in it is a particular type of rating used in motors for specific applications, namely compressors. I'm sure you could contact Magnetek/Century (the manufacturer of the motor on my compressor) for a more specific answer. I agree with everyone but Jon that it is an excuse to lie. The only "lie" would be calling a 3HP SPL (15A/115V) motor a 3HP motor, which may have been the case in the past with less than reputable merchants such as Sears/Craftsman, among others. To some of the participants on this newsgroup, that is an excuse to consider legitimate motor manufacturers guilty of the same type of deception, even when they properly label their products. I believe the phrase "when all you've got is a hammer, everything looks like a nail" is appropriate here. Jon |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:27 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter