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#1
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How much heat to keep pipes from freezing
On Sun, 09 Jan 2011 14:18:55 -0500, Metspitzer
wrote: Here in winter, most days it at least gets above freezing. (Alabama/Georgia) The nights are supposed to be down in the low 20s this week. In my sister's house, the water heater is in a utility room with no heat. The hot water pipe is in an outside wall so her hot water freezes during these cold times. I have suggested she put a 100W bulb in the overhead light and leave it on to keep the pipes from freezing. This has helped, but it still freezes if the temp stays below freezing for more than a day. She only needs enough heat in the small x small room to keep the pipe from freezing. A 100W lamp is not enough and a room heater is really too much. Can someone suggest something in between? Buy one of those little ceramic electric heaters. Walmart, hardware store, building center, etc.. They're about $30 and very safe to use. They draw lower wattage than the bigger electric heaters. Blow it toward the wall where the pipes are. (of course leave a few feet in between - read the directions to know how far to space it from walls). Heat tape is costly too, but it may be a little cheaper, but this heater wont need anything installed. Just plug it in. |
#2
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How much heat to keep pipes from freezing
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#3
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How much heat to keep pipes from freezing
When ceramic heaters came out, they were supposed to be more
energy efficient. Years ago, I checked some packages at the store. 1500 watts delivers 5,200 BTU per hour. Filament or ceramic, both the same output. The ceramics don't get as hot, and much less of a fire risk. And, ceramic heaters are smaller, easier to store in the off season (get it? OFF season?). -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Jeff Thies" wrote in message ... Buy one of those little ceramic electric heaters. Walmart, hardware store, building center, etc.. They're about $30 and very safe to use. They draw lower wattage than the bigger electric heaters. How do you figure that? Almost all heaters draw ~1500W on high, and some portion thereof on medium and low. Not that I'm adverse to ceramic, but they don't draw less power. Jeff |
#4
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How much heat to keep pipes from freezing
On 1/10/2011 9:25 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
When ceramic heaters came out, they were supposed to be more energy efficient. Years ago, I checked some packages at the store. 1500 watts delivers 5,200 BTU per hour. Filament or ceramic, both the same output. Same power, same efficiency. The ceramics don't get as hot, and much less of a fire risk. I don't know about that. A quickie IR measurement into my ceramic on high, gives almost 300F. Reduce the airflow, if it was covered or partially covered and that will go up. It still needs to be thermally protected. And caution used that nothing can cover it. There is no glowing hot wire, but that is not all there is to worry about. And, ceramic heaters are smaller, easier to store in the off season (get it? I never said anything to lead to the contrary. Most people I know, myself included, keep one in the bathroom. Small size, quick heat, reasonably safe. Still need to be careful. The safest heater, is the largest, the radiator style IMHO. Jeff OFF season?). |
#5
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How much heat to keep pipes from freezing
On 2011-01-10, Jeff Thies wrote:
Most people I know, myself included, keep one in the bathroom. Small size, quick heat, reasonably safe. Still need to be careful. The safest heater, is the largest, the radiator style IMHO. All electric heaters are limited by wiring codes for 110V house current. Max is 1500 watts. Add a fan and the motor subtracts from heating element maximum. Radiant heat BTUs are determined by direct conversion of amps to BTUs. Can anyone show me that ceramics are more efficient than a heated metal filament? nb |
#6
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How much heat to keep pipes from freezing
On 1/10/2011 10:21 AM, notbob wrote:
On 2011-01-10, Jeff wrote: Most people I know, myself included, keep one in the bathroom. Small size, quick heat, reasonably safe. Still need to be careful. The safest heater, is the largest, the radiator style IMHO. All electric heaters are limited by wiring codes for 110V house current. Max is 1500 watts. Roughly. With line voltages typically closer to 125, they can run over 1600W. I've checked all mine with a Kill A Watt. So, 15A max, and generally more like 13A. Add a fan and the motor subtracts from heating element maximum. They usually rate all electric heaters as 100%. Even the fan and motor eventually is eventually returned as heat. Radiant heat BTUs are determined by direct conversion of amps to BTUs. Can anyone show me that ceramics are more efficient than a heated metal filament? Not correctly, anyways! Jeff nb |
#7
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How much heat to keep pipes from freezing
In article , Jeff Thies wrote:
On 1/10/2011 9:25 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote: When ceramic heaters came out, they were supposed to be more energy efficient. Years ago, I checked some packages at the store. 1500 watts delivers 5,200 BTU per hour. Filament or ceramic, both the same output. Same power, same efficiency. The ceramics don't get as hot, and much less of a fire risk. I don't know about that. A quickie IR measurement into my ceramic on high, gives almost 300F. Reduce the airflow, if it was covered or partially covered and that will go up. It still needs to be thermally protected. And caution used that nothing can cover it. There is no glowing hot wire, but that is not all there is to worry about. And, ceramic heaters are smaller, easier to store in the off season (get it? I never said anything to lead to the contrary. Most people I know, myself included, keep one in the bathroom. Small size, quick heat, reasonably safe. Still need to be careful. The safest heater, is the largest, the radiator style IMHO. The "radiator style" looks to me safer - more suitable for use in a chilly bedroom than other types. But in the original area with pipes prone to freezing and sounding easy to rid of combustibles? I would use something with a fan to direct the heat, and UL listed so that if the fan fails the unit fails safely. Keep the area free of combustibles just in case the unit in question fails less safely than the sample of that unit submitted for UL testing. Otherwise get one or two of those clamp-on lights with reflectors, use 150W bulbs in the likely event the units are rated for such, and aim them where their radiant heat output will be good - should this amount of heat be sufficient. (Probably will be in a small area when outdoor temperature only dips to the 20's.) There are also trouble lights, with hooks for hanging them from things, and reflectors to give them some directivity. However, those tend to be rated for maximum of 60 watt bulbs or something like that. ("Industrial service" / "rough duty" incandescents, as well as ones producing over 2600 lumens of light at "design voltage", are among the many exceptions from the upcoming incandescent lamp ban.) Watch out for the ball joints in many of these clamp-on lights being prone to slipping. Deploy these lights only where they re-aim themselves safely if the ball joint slips. Don't set yourself up for being only a minor earthquake or a thermal expansion related loss of grip away from starting a fire - with any temporary lighting or any temporary heat source. -- - Don Klipstein ) |
#8
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How much heat to keep pipes from freezing
In article , notbob wrote:
On 2011-01-10, Jeff Thies wrote: Most people I know, myself included, keep one in the bathroom. Small size, quick heat, reasonably safe. Still need to be careful. The safest heater, is the largest, the radiator style IMHO. All electric heaters are limited by wiring codes for 110V house current. Max is 1500 watts. Add a fan and the motor subtracts from heating element maximum. Radiant heat BTUs are determined by direct conversion of amps to BTUs. Can anyone show me that ceramics are more efficient than a heated metal filament? The ceramics are more efficient at heating air, which is directed by the fan to what is to be heated. The filament types are more efficient at heating whatever absorbs their infrared radiation, though they do some heating of adjacent air that rises upward. -- - Don Klipstein ) |
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