I'm looking for information on how to install and use remote
fluorescent ballasts and architectural fixtures. I need details, like
what types of enclosures are available for the ballasts, where they
can be mounted, how wire should be routed between the ballast and the
fixture (conduit? flex conduit? something else?), what type of wire,
and so-forth.

Anyone have a clue?

On 1/5/2011 11:00 PM, bc wrote:
I'm looking for information on how to install and use remote
fluorescent ballasts and architectural fixtures. I need details, like
what types of enclosures are available for the ballasts, where they
can be mounted, how wire should be routed between the ballast and the
fixture (conduit? flex conduit? something else?), what type of wire,
and so-forth.

Anyone have a clue?

Are you designing your own light fixture?

TDD

On Jan 6, 12:00*am, bc wrote:
I'm looking for information on how to install and use remote
fluorescent ballasts and architectural fixtures. I need details, like
what types of enclosures are available for the ballasts, where they
can be mounted, how wire should be routed between the ballast and the
fixture (conduit? flex conduit? something else?), what type of wire,
and so-forth.

Anyone have a clue?

Remote ballasts for flourescents is sometimes used in display cases.
Tht might helpt your searches. You also might find more about remote
ballasts for other types of hid lighting like high pressure sodium or
metal halid. The ballast has to be a metal box. I think the wiring
has to have a 600v rating for a lot of it because of the starting
voltages. What I have seen has been in conduit. I don't think it's
easy to find 600v wire in sheathed.

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jan 6, 12:00 am, bc wrote:
I'm looking for information on how to install and use remote
fluorescent ballasts and architectural fixtures. I need details, like
what types of enclosures are available for the ballasts, where they
can be mounted, how wire should be routed between the ballast and the
fixture (conduit? flex conduit? something else?), what type of wire,
and so-forth.

Anyone have a clue?

Remote ballasts for flourescents is sometimes used in display cases.
Tht might helpt your searches. You also might find more about remote
ballasts for other types of hid lighting like high pressure sodium or
metal halid. The ballast has to be a metal box. I think the wiring
has to have a 600v rating for a lot of it because of the starting
voltages. What I have seen has been in conduit. I don't think it's
easy to find 600v wire in sheathed.

I would use some kind of raceway - EMT, flex, ENT, and try to keep it
short. There is minimal information furnished, like number of wires. You
can probably use #18 wire (which may only be available in fixture wire).

There is a wide variety of steel boxes available. Some do not have
knockouts and you have to punch. Remember the ballast will be generating
heat.

I remembered Romex was 300V. A temporary 480V machine connection I saw
with Romex was tacky, but the 277V to ground was inside the 300V rating.
I looked at a couple pieces of recent Romex and they were both marked 600V.

This is a good one to run by the inspector.

(High pressure sodium starts with a short high voltage pulse. The
capacitance from remote wiring the ballast is likely to kill the pulse.)

--
bud--

bud-- wrote:

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jan 6, 12:00 am, bc wrote:
I'm looking for information on how to install and use remote
fluorescent ballasts and architectural fixtures. I need details, like
what types of enclosures are available for the ballasts, where they
can be mounted, how wire should be routed between the ballast and the
fixture (conduit? flex conduit? something else?), what type of wire,
and so-forth.

Anyone have a clue?

Remote ballasts for flourescents is sometimes used in display cases.
Tht might helpt your searches. You also might find more about remote
ballasts for other types of hid lighting like high pressure sodium or
metal halid. The ballast has to be a metal box. I think the wiring
has to have a 600v rating for a lot of it because of the starting
voltages. What I have seen has been in conduit. I don't think it's
easy to find 600v wire in sheathed.

I would use some kind of raceway - EMT, flex, ENT, and try to keep it
short. There is minimal information furnished, like number of wires. You
can probably use #18 wire (which may only be available in fixture wire).

There is a wide variety of steel boxes available. Some do not have
knockouts and you have to punch. Remember the ballast will be generating
heat.

I remembered Romex was 300V. A temporary 480V machine connection I saw
with Romex was tacky, but the 277V to ground was inside the 300V rating.
I looked at a couple pieces of recent Romex and they were both marked 600V.

This is a good one to run by the inspector.

(High pressure sodium starts with a short high voltage pulse. The
capacitance from remote wiring the ballast is likely to kill the pulse.)

--
bud--

The flouro fixtures used in display cases use remote ballasts, and the
lamp heads connect with some HV rated (1KV I seem to recall) flexible
cord to a special plug.

On Jan 6, 11:00*am, bud-- wrote:
jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jan 6, 12:00 am, bc wrote:
I'm looking for information on how to install and use remote
fluorescent ballasts and architectural fixtures. I need details, like
what types of enclosures are available for the ballasts, where they
can be mounted, how wire should be routed between the ballast and the
fixture (conduit? flex conduit? something else?), what type of wire,
and so-forth.

Anyone have a clue?

Remote ballasts for flourescents is sometimes used in display cases.
Tht might helpt your searches. *You also might find more about remote
ballasts for other types of hid lighting like high pressure sodium or
metal halid. *The ballast has to be a metal box. *I think the wiring
has to have a 600v rating for a lot of it because of the starting
voltages. *What I have seen has been in conduit. *I don't think it's
easy to find 600v wire in sheathed.

I would use some kind of raceway - EMT, flex, ENT, and try to keep it
short. There is minimal information furnished, like number of wires. You
can probably use #18 wire (which may only be available in fixture wire).

There is a wide variety of steel boxes available. Some do not have
knockouts and you have to punch. Remember the ballast will be generating
heat.

I remembered Romex was 300V. A temporary 480V machine connection I saw
with Romex was tacky, but the 277V to ground was inside the 300V rating.
I looked at a couple pieces of recent Romex and they were both marked 600V.

This is a good one to run by the inspector.

(High pressure sodium starts with a short high voltage pulse. The
capacitance from remote wiring the ballast is likely to kill the pulse.)

--
bud--- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There are starters for hps that handle remote ballast. Some go up
past 50 ft I believe. Just has a higher pulse.