Our office shop door is not latching automatically when it closes. Now
we have to push the door in order for it to latch. Somehow the latch
is a lot tighter than before. Is it possible to adjust it easily?

I have uploaded some pictures showing the door, latch and strike
plate: http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den

On Sep 24, 2:31*pm, " wrote:
Our office shop door is not latching automatically when it closes. Now
we have to push the door in order for it to latch. Somehow the latch
is a lot tighter than before. Is it possible to adjust it easily?

I have uploaded some pictures showing the door, latch and strike
plate:http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den

By the looks of it, that top Philips head screw is scraping on the
other door (paint appears to be scraped off) -- if you can tighten it
a bit then try that. You can likely also try to replace it with a
smaller headed screw to see if the problem goes away. Check that the
hinges are on tight, and that they are not bent. Try taking the latch
apart and cleaning that as well in case something's stuck in there.




You could try removing it, but I'm not really sure what it's
holding...
Check that the door closer thingy (forgot the technical term --
someone here will correct me...) is at the same tension as before (is
it easier to open the door now than it used to be?)
It could be that it was not installed correctly, and that the
temperature has changed the size of the opening, causing problems
(extra friction when closing)
You could have something stuck in the latch (is it hard to press
in?) if so, take it apart and clean it.

On Sep 24, 12:03*pm, John wrote:
On Sep 24, 2:31*pm, " wrote:

Our office shop door is not latching automatically when it closes. Now
we have to push the door in order for it to latch. Somehow the latch
is a lot tighter than before. Is it possible to adjust it easily?

I have uploaded some pictures showing the door, latch and strike
plate:http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den

By the looks of it, that top Philips head screw is scraping on the
other door (paint appears to be scraped off) -- if you can tighten it
a bit then try that. *You can likely also try to replace it with a
smaller headed screw to see if the problem goes away. *Check that the
hinges are on tight, and that they are not bent. *Try taking the latch
apart and cleaning that as well in case something's stuck in there.

* *You could try removing it, but I'm not really sure what it's
holding...
Check that the door closer thingy (forgot the technical term --
someone here will correct me...) is at the same tension as before (is
it easier to open the door now than it used to be?)
It could be that it was not installed correctly, and that the
temperature has changed the size of the opening, causing problems
(extra friction when closing)
You could have something stuck in the latch (is it hard to press
in?) * if so, take it apart and clean it.

The screw head is actually not brushing against the door. So it is not
causing the issue.
I do notice that the latch is stiffer than before. It used to be a lot
easier to retract.
The door closer thing seems to be the same as before.
If I take the latch apart, what should I look for?

wrote in message
...
On Sep 24, 12:03 pm, John wrote:
On Sep 24, 2:31 pm, " wrote:

Our office shop door is not latching automatically when it closes. Now
we have to push the door in order for it to latch. Somehow the latch
is a lot tighter than before. Is it possible to adjust it easily?

I have uploaded some pictures showing the door, latch and strike
plate:http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den

By the looks of it, that top Philips head screw is scraping on the
other door (paint appears to be scraped off) -- if you can tighten it
a bit then try that. You can likely also try to replace it with a
smaller headed screw to see if the problem goes away. Check that the
hinges are on tight, and that they are not bent. Try taking the latch
apart and cleaning that as well in case something's stuck in there.

You could try removing it, but I'm not really sure what it's
holding...
Check that the door closer thingy (forgot the technical term --
someone here will correct me...) is at the same tension as before (is
it easier to open the door now than it used to be?)
It could be that it was not installed correctly, and that the
temperature has changed the size of the opening, causing problems
(extra friction when closing)
You could have something stuck in the latch (is it hard to press
in?) if so, take it apart and clean it.

The screw head is actually not brushing against the door. So it is not
causing the issue.
I do notice that the latch is stiffer than before. It used to be a lot
easier to retract.
The door closer thing seems to be the same as before.
If I take the latch apart, what should I look for?


Using photo 1 as a reference
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/
spray the parts sticking out of the door liberally with WD 40 or silicone
(preferred). You can buy either or both at any auto supply store. Also
spray into the keyhole and any other place the straw will reach. Operate
the key and handle, repeat the spraying.

That being a commercial lock I would suggest taking it apart to be a mistake
if you have never done it before. I really think the lubrication will solve
your problem. I repeat the silicone is the better choice and will last
longer.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On Sep 24, 2:31*pm, " wrote:
Our office shop door is not latching automatically when it closes. Now
we have to push the door in order for it to latch. Somehow the latch
is a lot tighter than before. Is it possible to adjust it easily?

I have uploaded some pictures showing the door, latch and strike
plate:http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den

Give me your address, leave the door unlatched so I can see the
problem in action and I'll stop over sometime very late tonight to fix
it.

On Sep 24, 12:32*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Sep 24, 12:03 pm, John wrote:





On Sep 24, 2:31 pm, " wrote:

Our office shop door is not latching automatically when it closes. Now
we have to push the door in order for it to latch. Somehow the latch
is a lot tighter than before. Is it possible to adjust it easily?

I have uploaded some pictures showing the door, latch and strike
plate:http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den

By the looks of it, that top Philips head screw is scraping on the
other door (paint appears to be scraped off) -- if you can tighten it
a bit then try that. You can likely also try to replace it with a
smaller headed screw to see if the problem goes away. Check that the
hinges are on tight, and that they are not bent. Try taking the latch
apart and cleaning that as well in case something's stuck in there.

You could try removing it, but I'm not really sure what it's
holding...
Check that the door closer thingy (forgot the technical term --
someone here will correct me...) is at the same tension as before (is
it easier to open the door now than it used to be?)
It could be that it was not installed correctly, and that the
temperature has changed the size of the opening, causing problems
(extra friction when closing)
You could have something stuck in the latch (is it hard to press
in?) if so, take it apart and clean it.

The screw head is actually not brushing against the door. So it is not
causing the issue.
I do notice that the latch is stiffer than before. It used to be a lot
easier to retract.
The door closer thing seems to be the same as before.
If I take the latch apart, what should I look for?

Using photo 1 as a referencehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5020526053/in/set-721576249...
spray the parts sticking out of the door liberally with WD 40 or silicone
(preferred). *You can buy either or both at any auto supply store. *Also
spray into the keyhole and any other place the straw will reach. *Operate
the key and handle, repeat the spraying.

That being a commercial lock I would suggest taking it apart to be a mistake
if you have never done it before. I really think the lubrication will solve
your problem. *I repeat the silicone is the better choice and will last
longer.

--
Colbyt
Please come visithttp://www.househomerepair.com

Should I use WD40 or a lubricant? I heard WD40 is not a lub.

Thanks

On Sep 24, 4:50*pm, " wrote:
On Sep 24, 12:32*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:



wrote in message

....
On Sep 24, 12:03 pm, John wrote:

On Sep 24, 2:31 pm, " wrote:

Our office shop door is not latching automatically when it closes. Now
we have to push the door in order for it to latch. Somehow the latch
is a lot tighter than before. Is it possible to adjust it easily?

I have uploaded some pictures showing the door, latch and strike
plate:http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den

By the looks of it, that top Philips head screw is scraping on the
other door (paint appears to be scraped off) -- if you can tighten it
a bit then try that. You can likely also try to replace it with a
smaller headed screw to see if the problem goes away. Check that the
hinges are on tight, and that they are not bent. Try taking the latch
apart and cleaning that as well in case something's stuck in there.

You could try removing it, but I'm not really sure what it's
holding...
Check that the door closer thingy (forgot the technical term --
someone here will correct me...) is at the same tension as before (is
it easier to open the door now than it used to be?)
It could be that it was not installed correctly, and that the
temperature has changed the size of the opening, causing problems
(extra friction when closing)
You could have something stuck in the latch (is it hard to press
in?) if so, take it apart and clean it.

The screw head is actually not brushing against the door. So it is not
causing the issue.
I do notice that the latch is stiffer than before. It used to be a lot
easier to retract.
The door closer thing seems to be the same as before.
If I take the latch apart, what should I look for?

Using photo 1 as a referencehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5020526053/in/set-721576249...
spray the parts sticking out of the door liberally with WD 40 or silicone
(preferred). *You can buy either or both at any auto supply store. *Also
spray into the keyhole and any other place the straw will reach. *Operate
the key and handle, repeat the spraying.

That being a commercial lock I would suggest taking it apart to be a mistake
if you have never done it before. I really think the lubrication will solve
your problem. *I repeat the silicone is the better choice and will last
longer.

--
Colbyt
Please come visithttp://www.househomerepair.com

Should I use WD40 or a lubricant? I heard WD40 is not a lub.

Thanks

'I heard WD40 is not a lub"

Uh-oh. Here we go again!

On Sep 24, 1:50*pm, " wrote:
On Sep 24, 12:32*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:



wrote in message

....
On Sep 24, 12:03 pm, John wrote:

On Sep 24, 2:31 pm, " wrote:

Our office shop door is not latching automatically when it closes. Now
we have to push the door in order for it to latch. Somehow the latch
is a lot tighter than before. Is it possible to adjust it easily?

I have uploaded some pictures showing the door, latch and strike
plate:http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den

By the looks of it, that top Philips head screw is scraping on the
other door (paint appears to be scraped off) -- if you can tighten it
a bit then try that. You can likely also try to replace it with a
smaller headed screw to see if the problem goes away. Check that the
hinges are on tight, and that they are not bent. Try taking the latch
apart and cleaning that as well in case something's stuck in there.

You could try removing it, but I'm not really sure what it's
holding...
Check that the door closer thingy (forgot the technical term --
someone here will correct me...) is at the same tension as before (is
it easier to open the door now than it used to be?)
It could be that it was not installed correctly, and that the
temperature has changed the size of the opening, causing problems
(extra friction when closing)
You could have something stuck in the latch (is it hard to press
in?) if so, take it apart and clean it.

The screw head is actually not brushing against the door. So it is not
causing the issue.
I do notice that the latch is stiffer than before. It used to be a lot
easier to retract.
The door closer thing seems to be the same as before.
If I take the latch apart, what should I look for?

Using photo 1 as a referencehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5020526053/in/set-721576249...
spray the parts sticking out of the door liberally with WD 40 or silicone
(preferred). *You can buy either or both at any auto supply store. *Also
spray into the keyhole and any other place the straw will reach. *Operate
the key and handle, repeat the spraying.

That being a commercial lock I would suggest taking it apart to be a mistake
if you have never done it before. I really think the lubrication will solve
your problem. *I repeat the silicone is the better choice and will last
longer.

--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

Should I use WD40 or a lubricant? I heard WD40 is not a lub.

Silicone spray lubricant, as suggested by Colbyt.

Good luck.

On Sep 24, 2:31*pm, " wrote:
Our office shop door is not latching automatically when it closes. Now
we have to push the door in order for it to latch. Somehow the latch
is a lot tighter than before. Is it possible to adjust it easily?

I have uploaded some pictures showing the door, latch and strike
plate:http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den


Call a locksmith to disassemble the lock and lubricate it properly
with
grease on the inside of the lock case...

Spraying any type of lube on the outer surfaces of the latch will only
be at best a temporary solution...

The locksmith may find that one of the internal springs of the latch
has become dislodged or is broken...

You can also adjust the "latch speed" on the door closer to use more
force to close the door...

Your particular problem can be caused by: poor alignment of the door
in the frame, a tired door closer which is getting ready to give out,
or
an issue with the latch itself...

You have ruled out door alignment as an issue as shown by your pics,
so your problem is being caused by some combination of the other
two...

P.S. WD-40 is not a permanent lubricant, sure it will help for about
24
hours, but after that it is mostly evaporated and will do nothing to
help
keep the innards in a lock case lubed... In fact it may very well
dislodge
gobs of dirty grease with grit on it and make the problems worse...

Taking the lock case apart to properly clean it and then lubricate it
with
grease as it was done at the Adams Rite factory when the unit was new
is what is called for here, not blindly spraying magical solvents and
water
displacement chemicals in from the gaps around the latch...

~~ Evan

On Sep 24, 3:49*pm, Evan wrote:
On Sep 24, 2:31*pm, " wrote:

Our office shop door is not latching automatically when it closes. Now
we have to push the door in order for it to latch. Somehow the latch
is a lot tighter than before. Is it possible to adjust it easily?

I have uploaded some pictures showing the door, latch and strike
plate:http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den

Call a locksmith to disassemble the lock and lubricate it properly
with
grease on the inside of the lock case...

Spraying any type of lube on the outer surfaces of the latch will only
be at best a temporary solution...

The locksmith may find that one of the internal springs of the latch
has become dislodged or is broken...

You can also adjust the "latch speed" on the door closer to use more
force to close the door...

Your particular problem can be caused by: poor alignment of the door
in the frame, a tired door closer which is getting ready to give out,
or
an issue with the latch itself...

You have ruled out door alignment as an issue as shown by your pics,
so your problem is being caused by some combination of the other
two...

P.S. *WD-40 is not a permanent lubricant, sure it will help for about
24
hours, but after that it is mostly evaporated and will do nothing to
help
keep the innards in a lock case lubed... *In fact it may very well
dislodge
gobs of dirty grease with grit on it and make the problems worse...

Taking the lock case apart to properly clean it and then lubricate it
with
grease as it was done at the Adams Rite factory when the unit was new
is what is called for here, not blindly spraying magical solvents and
water
displacement chemicals in from the gaps around the latch...

~~ Evan

The door closer seems OK. I tried to push the latch in by hand and it
does seem a little tight. It used to retract a lot smoother.
If we have to replace the latch, where can I purchase such a latch? I
don't believe Home Depot carries the commercial stuff, does it? As the
picture shows, there is a word 'GEM' on the strike plate.

"Colbyt" wrote in message
m...

wrote in message
...
On Sep 24, 12:03 pm, John wrote:
On Sep 24, 2:31 pm, " wrote:

Our office shop door is not latching automatically when it closes. Now
we have to push the door in order for it to latch. Somehow the latch
is a lot tighter than before. Is it possible to adjust it easily?

I have uploaded some pictures showing the door, latch and strike
plate:http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den

By the looks of it, that top Philips head screw is scraping on the
other door (paint appears to be scraped off) -- if you can tighten it
a bit then try that. You can likely also try to replace it with a
smaller headed screw to see if the problem goes away. Check that the
hinges are on tight, and that they are not bent. Try taking the latch
apart and cleaning that as well in case something's stuck in there.

You could try removing it, but I'm not really sure what it's
holding...
Check that the door closer thingy (forgot the technical term --
someone here will correct me...) is at the same tension as before (is
it easier to open the door now than it used to be?)
It could be that it was not installed correctly, and that the
temperature has changed the size of the opening, causing problems
(extra friction when closing)
You could have something stuck in the latch (is it hard to press
in?) if so, take it apart and clean it.

The screw head is actually not brushing against the door. So it is not
causing the issue.
I do notice that the latch is stiffer than before. It used to be a lot
easier to retract.
The door closer thing seems to be the same as before.
If I take the latch apart, what should I look for?


Using photo 1 as a reference
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/
spray the parts sticking out of the door liberally with WD 40 or silicone
(preferred). You can buy either or both at any auto supply store. Also
spray into the keyhole and any other place the straw will reach. Operate
the key and handle, repeat the spraying.

That being a commercial lock I would suggest taking it apart to be a
mistake if you have never done it before. I really think the lubrication
will solve your problem. I repeat the silicone is the better choice and
will last longer.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com
I agree -- don't disassemble the lock / latch, and use a silicone spray or
WD40 on the mechanism. One more step - get some paraffin or hard paste wax
and put it on the latch and strike plate. It's amazing what just a little
of this will do to make a door close easier. (Don't worry about this being
a "short term" fix -- I had paraffin on hand for use with wood screws and
used this same procedure on a recalcitrant garage entry door. Before the
work the door would bounce back rather than latch; afterwards it slides shut
as though there was no friction at all on the latch. This was 3 years ago
and it's still just as smooth.)

This is a variation on an Adams Rite. These are complicated to begin
with, and taking them apart is often a good money maker for locksmiths
such as myself. A good dose of good quality silicone should help.
Hint: Open the door. Push the rounded latch in. Spray UP into the
lock, through the opening at the edge of the door. The tapered opening
you just made by pushing the latch in.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Colbyt" wrote in message
m...

plate:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/


The door closer thing seems to be the same as before.
If I take the latch apart, what should I look for?


Using photo 1 as a reference
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/
spray the parts sticking out of the door liberally with WD 40 or
silicone
(preferred). You can buy either or both at any auto supply store.
Also
spray into the keyhole and any other place the straw will reach.
Operate
the key and handle, repeat the spraying.

That being a commercial lock I would suggest taking it apart to be a
mistake
if you have never done it before. I really think the lubrication will
solve
your problem. I repeat the silicone is the better choice and will
last
longer.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

People on this group are so, so nice.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"DerbyDad03"
wrote in message
...

plate:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...7624900943843/

Thanks
Den

Give me your address, leave the door unlatched so I can see the
problem in action and I'll stop over sometime very late tonight to fix
it.

Silicone, or teflon is good. WD dries out after a while. Plan on
spending about $4 for a spray can of silicone. The buck and a half
stuff from Walmart is worse than useless.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...


Should I use WD40 or a lubricant? I heard WD40 is not a lub.

Thanks

Aristotle and Confucious both say WD is not a lubricant. So there!

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"DerbyDad03"
wrote in message
...

Should I use WD40 or a lubricant? I heard WD40 is not a lub.

Thanks

'I heard WD40 is not a lub"

Uh-oh. Here we go again!

These things are seriously complicated. I'd suggest if replacement
becomes necessary. Call local (to you) locksmiths. Ask if they have
experience in Adams Rite deadlatches.

I'd be happy to do the replacement. Buck a mile from Rochester, NY
plus labor and parts. And lodging.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

The door closer seems OK. I tried to push the latch in by hand and it
does seem a little tight. It used to retract a lot smoother.
If we have to replace the latch, where can I purchase such a latch? I
don't believe Home Depot carries the commercial stuff, does it? As the
picture shows, there is a word 'GEM' on the strike plate.

wrote:
On Sep 24, 12:32 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:

Should I use WD40 or a lubricant? I heard WD40 is not a lub.

Thanks

Sure. As the Yiddishi mama said to the doctor after he told her that her
suggestion of an enema wouldn't work because "the patient is dead!"

"It can't hurt."