I have a 20's home with hardwood subfloors. I've done a good bit of
work on the subfloor and there are some transitions of slightly
differing heights.

I'll be putting down laminate with the best pad I could find.

None of the self leveling compounds (I've talked with one of the reps
tech) are recommended for hardwood, so I'm feathering some of these in
with Rock Hard.

What level differences should I be worried about? I'm thinking, .1"
is OK, .2" is too much.

Jeff

"Jeff Thies" wrote in message
...
I have a 20's home with hardwood subfloors. I've done a good bit of work
on the subfloor and there are some transitions of slightly differing
heights.

I'll be putting down laminate with the best pad I could find.

None of the self leveling compounds (I've talked with one of the reps
tech) are recommended for hardwood, so I'm feathering some of these in
with Rock Hard.

What level differences should I be worried about? I'm thinking, .1" is
OK, .2" is too much.

Jeff

Read the label for the product you are buying. .125 1/8" in 6-8 foot of
span is what I recall but by memory isn't what it used to be.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On 9/22/2010 8:52 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
I have a 20's home with hardwood subfloors. I've done a good bit of
work on the subfloor and there are some transitions of slightly
differing heights.

I'll be putting down laminate with the best pad I could find.

None of the self leveling compounds (I've talked with one of the reps
tech) are recommended for hardwood, so I'm feathering some of these in
with Rock Hard.

What level differences should I be worried about? I'm thinking, .1" is
OK, .2" is too much.

Jeff

Hardwood subfloor, or a single-layer hardwood T&G floor? IOW, was what
you are calling 'subfloor' ever the actual finish floor? Other than
houses built by curmudgeons using wood cut on their own property, I've
never seen hardwood used as a subfloor in houses of that era. Or are you
calling it hardwood merely because nails you drive are coming back
around and poking out at you? Old fir and pine, if kept dry, can get
really really hard over the years- in this 1960 house, I have to drill
pilot holes to drive nails in the studs, and burn up drill bits drilling
holes for wires in the joists.

Basic thought is- if this was a finish floor at some point, covering
with a plastic floor is a sin, IMHO.

--
aem sends...

In article ,
"Colbyt" wrote:

my memory isn't what it used to be.

How do you know?

On 9/22/2010 6:42 PM, aemeijers wrote:
On 9/22/2010 8:52 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
I have a 20's home with hardwood subfloors. I've done a good bit of
work on the subfloor and there are some transitions of slightly
differing heights.

I'll be putting down laminate with the best pad I could find.

None of the self leveling compounds (I've talked with one of the reps
tech) are recommended for hardwood, so I'm feathering some of these in
with Rock Hard.

What level differences should I be worried about? I'm thinking, .1" is
OK, .2" is too much.

Jeff

Hardwood subfloor, or a single-layer hardwood T&G floor? IOW, was what
you are calling 'subfloor' ever the actual finish floor? Other than
houses built by curmudgeons using wood cut on their own property, I've
never seen hardwood used as a subfloor in houses of that era. Or are you
calling it hardwood merely because nails you drive are coming back
around and poking out at you? Old fir and pine, if kept dry, can get
really really hard over the years- in this 1960 house, I have to drill
pilot holes to drive nails in the studs, and burn up drill bits drilling
holes for wires in the joists.

Basic thought is- if this was a finish floor at some point, covering
with a plastic floor is a sin, IMHO.


It's typical construction for that period I believe. Rough cut 1 bys
covered with oak tongue and groove. The top is oak.

But this is a kitchen and I wasn't the first to cover it with tile.
I've also ripped a good bit out that was soft and in some cases replaced
the floor joists. Hence the description, a good bit of work on the
subfloor. I've got plenty of hardwood elsewhere, this is not salvageable
and I really wouldn't want to maintain a hardwood floor in the kitchen,
the tile was bad enough.

At this point, I just want a floor again.

It's been a huge pain getting this level and flat, sort of...

3 4*8 OSB
8 2x6's and 2x8
3/8" plywood
5mm plywood
Slew of custom cut shims
4 large containers of Rock Hard
A lot of sanding and multi-tooling.
Xylene
5 additional floor jacks


I'm ready to move on.

Jeff


--
aem sends...

aemeijers wrote:
-snip-

Basic thought is- if this was a finish floor at some point, covering
with a plastic floor is a sin, IMHO.

I'm not the OP-- but I'm about to 'sin', as you say.g

The current floor in my 100 yr old second floor bedroom is 6" fir-
that was apparently put in a little green. It has gaps between
nearly every board- many are splitting, knots are falling through.
I've fought with it for 25 years - filled & sanded & repaired, over
and over again.

I'm about to just cover it with cushioned laminate. It is in a
bedroom so very little shows anyway & I'm only awake in that room
about 6 minutes a day, so I care little of how it looks- I just want
to stop fussing with it.

The only thing right about the floor is that it hasn't cupped at all,
so it is a flat surface. From what little I've read about laminate
floors, it seems like I can just go perpendicular to the old floor and
snap the new one in. Can it really be that easy?

Jim

On Sep 22, 10:33*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,

*"Colbyt" wrote:
my memory isn't what it used to be.

How do you know?

What was the question again?

On 9/23/2010 10:59 AM, BobR wrote:
On Sep 22, 10:33 pm, Smitty wrote:
In articleyK6dnSSY7YNExgfRnZ2dnUVZ_oydn...@insightbb .com,

wrote:
my memory isn't what it used to be.

How do you know?

What was the question again?

Was there a question?